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Diddy
10-27-2011, 12:11 AM
hey guys i was wondering what the best way is to turn with a belt driven snapper walk behind. do i just squeeze the brake hard and turn or do a 3 point turn. and is using a sulkey on a walk behind that bad to do? thanks i appreciate it

cvcook
10-27-2011, 01:46 PM
Have you not driven one before? make a wide turn, locking up the inside tire will cause turf damage due to the tire scrubbing. yes a sulky is the way to go.....much faster!

Patriot Services
10-27-2011, 01:54 PM
You have race track or make loops. Belt drives were not meant to be ZTR's. If you pivot you will tear turf. Going forward as much as possible is most efficient. I'm guessing your new to larger mowers?
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Diddy
10-27-2011, 09:10 PM
yes im new to the larger mower. i mainly use 21 and i have used a kubota ztr but i am new to the walk behind world

Patriot Services
10-27-2011, 09:15 PM
You'll figure out quick that reverse is useless too. As well as when the belts get wet. Belt dressing helps somewhat but it still sucks in rain or heavy dew.
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douglee25
10-28-2011, 08:45 AM
On a belt drive WB, while squeezing the levers, you will find that there is a postion where the belt is disengaged and the brake is not applied... almost a 'neutral like' position. What I've perfected over the years is that when you come to the end of a row, squeeze the inside lever just enough to freewheel that side of the mower. Let the outside wheel continue to move and the turn will initiate. While the turn is going, I ever so slightly pull back on the mower (you probably couldn't even tell if you watched me) in order to line up the next row perfectly. This avoids the slightly 'turned strip' that you will see from many amateurs. I pride myself on straight lines. Now if you're on a velke and you're hauling ass down the path, you really need to brake hard on the inside wheel to get the mower to turn. Typically you may get a little turf damage, but I try to mitigate this by putting my weight on the inside bar while I turn. This allows me to use slightly less brake while completing the turn quickly and as straight as possible.

Doug

Diddy
10-28-2011, 09:55 AM
You'll figure out quick that reverse is useless too. As well as when the belts get wet. Belt dressing helps somewhat but it still sucks in rain or heavy dew.
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where do i get belt dressing, and what is it?

Diddy
10-28-2011, 09:59 AM
On a belt drive WB, while squeezing the levers, you will find that there is a postion where the belt is disengaged and the brake is not applied... almost a 'neutral like' position. What I've perfected over the years is that when you come to the end of a row, squeeze the inside lever just enough to freewheel that side of the mower. Let the outside wheel continue to move and the turn will initiate. While the turn is going, I ever so slightly pull back on the mower (you probably couldn't even tell if you watched me) in order to line up the next row perfectly. This avoids the slightly 'turned strip' that you will see from many amateurs. I pride myself on straight lines. Now if you're on a velke and you're hauling ass down the path, you really need to brake hard on the inside wheel to get the mower to turn. Typically you may get a little turf damage, but I try to mitigate this by putting my weight on the inside bar while I turn. This allows me to use slightly less brake while completing the turn quickly and as straight as possible.

Doug

do you lean your weight to the side that your turning into. like if your turning right you lean hard into the right side?

Patriot Services
10-28-2011, 10:03 AM
where do i get belt dressing, and what is it?

Auto parts store in a spray can. It softens the glaze that all belts get and allows them to grip better. It also helps repel water.
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Diddy
10-28-2011, 10:04 AM
Auto parts store in a spray can. It softens the glaze that all belts get and allows them to grip better. It also helps repel water.
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is there a specific brand or type that i should get?

douglee25
10-28-2011, 10:44 AM
do you lean your weight to the side that your turning into. like if your turning right you lean hard into the right side?

Yes, inside wheel of whatever way you're turning. Again, you only need to do this if you're on a velke and you have it in top gear. I'll mow in 5th with a velke and 4th walking (exmark WB).

Doug

billythekid
10-28-2011, 10:45 PM
Doug is exactly right you'll get the hang of it after a year of a belt i stepped up to a hydro and idk if i could do it anymore lol

jsslawncare
10-28-2011, 10:59 PM
Also run the mower up against something the wheels should spin if not replace the belts.

douglee25
10-28-2011, 11:05 PM
I have run both hydros and belts. Honestly for ease of maintenance and simplicity I like the belts. In 15 years of mowing I never replaced the belts once. I still can't believe it honestly. The only time I ever had an issue is when I got caught in a crazy down pour. Obviously hydros shine in that case. Again though, 15 years and no regrets with belts. Just my opinion however.

Doug
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Snapper Jack
10-29-2011, 07:36 AM
I have run both hydros and belts. Honestly for ease of maintenance and simplicity I like the belts. In 15 years of mowing I never replaced the belts once. I still can't believe it honestly. The only time I ever had an issue is when I got caught in a crazy down pour. Obviously hydros shine in that case. Again though, 15 years and no regrets with belts. Just my opinion however.

Doug
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Ditto! My old Snapper Pro still has the original belts too and most belt conditioners will solve belt slipping issues.

Diddy
10-29-2011, 11:27 AM
thanks guys. i usually mow in the transport speed which is a fast walk for me. ive been trying to find that one spot where i can hit nuetral wil still being in gear. is it possible for my breaks to be to tight and they engage to early? bc when i squeeze the grips not even all the way the wheels are already locking up?

douglee25
10-29-2011, 11:41 AM
thanks guys. i usually mow in the transport speed which is a fast walk for me. ive been trying to find that one spot where i can hit nuetral wil still being in gear. is it possible for my breaks to be to tight and they engage to early? bc when i squeeze the grips not even all the way the wheels are already locking up?

Yes, I was going to mention this, but figured you would ask if it wasn't right.

There is an adjustment rod with a wing nut (typically anyway) that goes to the band brake. Loosen up the wing nut which should allow the handle to be squeezed further before the brake is applied. Ultimately this should allow the tensioner pulley to be pulled off the belt when squeezing the handle, and thus a 'neutral like' position should be found.

Doug

Darryl G
10-29-2011, 01:01 PM
It's been a long time since I've operated a belt drive WB and I never used a sulky with one, but when I did I used about half brakes and about half muscle for turns, othewise my hands would get sore. It was strange going to a hydro and letting the machine do all the work...I found myself still wanting to muscle the thing around.

Diddy
10-29-2011, 02:33 PM
i think im going to try to losten up the break

Snapper Jack
10-29-2011, 04:23 PM
i think im going to try to loosen up the break
I place my machine a slight downgrade, lock the brakes,if it moves then I'll tighten the brake adjustment just enough to prevent it from rolling forward,don't know why others are having to muscle the mower around,let the brakes do the work.

douglee25
10-29-2011, 04:44 PM
I place my machine a slight downgrade, lock the brakes,if it moves then I'll tighten the brake adjustment just enough to prevent it from rolling forward,don't know why others are having to muscle the mower around,let the brakes do the work.

We weren't suggesting the OP to muscle the machine around per say... the direction was to add some body english to minimize turf damage that one would get by totally using the brake.

Doug

Diddy
10-29-2011, 06:14 PM
I place my machine a slight downgrade, lock the brakes,if it moves then I'll tighten the brake adjustment just enough to prevent it from rolling forward,don't know why others are having to muscle the mower around,let the brakes do the work.

ok thats a great idea im going to do that i just have to figure out which part to adjust bc my pistol grip controls 2 bars im hoping the one controls the belts and the other is for the break. i hope but welll see

Patriot Services
10-29-2011, 06:59 PM
If you aren't familiar with adjusting those rods you will throw off the tracking.
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Snapper Jack
10-29-2011, 08:04 PM
We weren't suggesting the OP to muscle the machine around per say... the direction was to add some body english to minimize turf damage that one would get by totally using the brake.

Doug
If your causing turf damage through the use of braking,then you need to slow that machine down. no way am I going to physically wear myself out to cut a few minutes off the clock:laugh:

Diddy
10-30-2011, 10:56 AM
If you aren't familiar with adjusting those rods you will throw off the tracking.
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at the end of the season ill play around adjusting it. its not to hard to correct the tracking