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View Full Version : Trailer Controller Fail Code "ol"


ed2hess
11-05-2011, 07:44 PM
When we depress the brake it goes to a "OL" which I guess is overload. Would that likely be one of the coil wore down and shorting to the hub? This trailer has four brakes so it might take a while to find which on unless I get lucky.

ed2hess
11-06-2011, 07:19 PM
No trailer wiring mechanics? Well I found one of the wires was loose on one of the four brakes. Couldn't hook it up to check it out but I don't see why that would cause a problem since the wires wasn't touching anything.

tailboardtech
11-06-2011, 08:22 PM
if it a tekonsha controller it does mean and overload what that will mean is that the brakes are pulling to much current ie. the brakes are shot or out of adjustment(most common thing) if it was shorting out it would come up on the screen as "SH"

this is based off of a P2 controller which i am guessing you have

ed2hess
11-07-2011, 08:08 PM
if it a tekonsha controller it does mean and overload what that will mean is that the brakes are pulling to much current ie. the brakes are shot or out of adjustment(most common thing) if it was shorting out it would come up on the screen as "SH"

this is based off of a P2 controller which i am guessing you have

I don't understand how they can pull too much current? Unless the coils are worn down to the point that wires are shorting to the wheel hub when actuated. When out of adjustment they just won't actuated been there on other trailers.

knox gsl
11-07-2011, 08:18 PM
Maybe OPEN LINE, as in it's picking up that there is a broken wire.

tailboardtech
11-07-2011, 08:44 PM
what kind of controller do you have?

ed2hess
11-08-2011, 08:48 PM
what kind of controller do you have?

Drawtite.....the actxxxxxII...can't make out model but will get it off one
of theother trucks since they all do the same. not likely OL means open line since I got four brakes all in parallel right. It did have an open line however still not test since I fixed that problem.

ed2hess
11-18-2011, 06:51 PM
OL means it is drawign tooo much current. These controllers are pretty well protected from blowin up. So the cause of my OL was a magnet that was worn down to the point it was exposing some the windings in it. Cut the wires to it and problme went away. I replaced the magnet and it is fixed. Sadly a magnet cost almost as much as the entire assembly.