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j-ville native
11-25-2011, 08:20 AM
I don't normally apply fertilizers, but one of my customers asked me about winterizing. Do you winterize st. augustine? If so what kind do you use and when do you apply? The customer hasn't had their lawn fertilized at all this fall and while their grass remains green, there are quite a few weeds present. Is there a winterizer that controls weeds also? Is winterizer even worth doing in this case?

jvanvliet
11-25-2011, 08:38 AM
Might be a little too cold up there to fertilize now; follow this link http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh010 for more information.

Maybe Ric will chime in with some first hand practical application advice (IE it ain't in the book).

We do our last fert in October; 50% slow release. Fertilizer requirements are different in Jacsonville. The link provided willget you started.

As far as the weeds are concerned check with your pest control guy.

j-ville native
11-25-2011, 08:49 AM
Thanks, I've read that article before and it does have some good info but it is very unspecific about when to fertilize, calling for "2-6 applications per year". Doesn't saying anything about winterizing either. Only says don't fertilize too late in the year and never after the first frost.

Ric
11-25-2011, 09:03 AM
Might be a little too cold up there to fertilize now; follow this link http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh010 for more information.

Maybe Ric will chime in with some first hand practical application advice (IE it ain't in the book).
We do our last fert in October; 50% slow release. Fertilizer requirements are different in Jacsonville. The link provided willget you started.

As far as the weeds are concerned check with your pest control guy.

Sorry I am too far south and have a grass growing in January to know anything about winterizing any thing. Snow plowing is a very poor market in my area and I have yet to have a customer request that service.

Bitter Blue is a cultivar of St Augustine that is supposed to be more cold tolerant than other cultivars of St Augustine. I can only assume Jacksonville and North & South Carolina plant cultivars of St Augustine that are Cold Tolerant.

..

jvanvliet
11-25-2011, 09:28 AM
Thanks Ric...

What I read between the lines was check your cultivar and then research it's fertilizer requirements and suggested time tables.

My guess would be that with temperatures consistently in the 60's or below... St. Augustine cultivars will move towards dormancy and ferilizing would not be indicated until spring. Sometimes you are better safe than sorry.

RAlmaroad
11-25-2011, 09:38 AM
I generally fertilize with 1lb/K of 14-0-46. The potassium strengthens the roots and stores a little nitrogen for the green up. I also put down some compost and manure mix in Early February at about 1/4" and a little thicker under the trees since they zap everything. It makes a difference. The St. Augustine does not go fully dormant in SC.

Ric
11-25-2011, 09:49 AM
jvanvliet

The only cold damage I have seen on St Augustine is a Purple color on the Leaves after a hard freeze in my area which doesn't happen very often. It can be interesting to watch the Purple pattern on the grass at different sides of the house where wind blew or the Canal water kept the area warmer etc. That Purple Color on the leaves is cut off on the next mowing. The last 3 winter we have had hard freezes. Before that it had been many years since our last freeze. I know Jacksonville and the St Augustine Area are more of a summer tourist area and too cold in the winter for a big tourist season or Grass to grow. Therefore regardless of Cultivar, Fertilization schedules for all plants will take on a more local schedule to coincide with active growth cycles. January is my coldest month, so, Oct is the last time I want to fertilize ornamentals heavy. Late Feb I will start fertilizing again since March is my No Freeze date. Young flush growth doesn't take cold very well.

jvanvliet
11-25-2011, 09:55 AM
Yah, that's what I thought. RAImaroad in SC says he fertilez but not when... that would be helpful to the original poster.

October is the last time we fertilize until end of March...

bug-guy
11-26-2011, 08:55 AM
people are here will use either 0-0-62 (can be spread or sprayed) or a fert like 9-0-24 covers 12000 sft so that's a lb of K per 1000

RAlmaroad
11-26-2011, 09:22 AM
Whenever the mower guy start to only have to work two weeks or more between cuttings, that is the sign that grass is going dormant whether centipede or St. Augustine. I then wait at least two weeks and apply "Winter Fertilizer" Doing this gives the roots a little time to metabolize the sugars and store them for spring. It's all about timing. Temps at nights are generally cooler and daylight hours are shorter that slows the uptake. Some years we might get into November but most of the time late October is the better time to get your winter feed down.

bug-guy
11-26-2011, 09:28 AM
i was always told that potash aids the root development adding carbohydrates, which help in cold tolerence and aids in springtime start up.
kind of like you will not see what it does but will see less desirable results with out. potash has risen in cost alot and many companies have cut their fall and winter use of it here. we have had 3 bad winters and alot more winter damage, and i think the the lack of K didn't help any

Landscape Poet
11-26-2011, 09:40 AM
i was always told that potash aids the root development adding carbohydrates, which help in cold tolerence and aids in springtime start up.
kind of like you will not see what it does but will see less desirable results with out. potash has risen in cost alot and many companies have cut their fall and winter use of it here. we have had 3 bad winters and alot more winter damage, and i think the the lack of K didn't help any

That was going to be my suggestion if others had not made suggestions already. You simply can not go wrong with Potash IMHO anytime of year wheather it right along with a N treatment or not. I personally think that my turf has been treated well when I was treating it with at least a 1 to 1 ratio and many times it was getting spoon feed with a 1 to 2 ratio from a 10-0-20 fertilizer from Howards.

Given the OP's location - which is similar in the distance from say Ric and myself and Ric saying he sees little to no cold damage, and with me seeing significant cold damage the last couple of years with the freezes, I would expect the OP usually sees a good amount of frost damage every year. Especially last year when they were cold enough to have snow prior to Christmas. I would think that feeding any turf up there with heavy potash feedings would be spot on - also he may want to look at his N feedings in a lighter manner too as his turf could potentially either waste the N or encounter problems from too much N as I am assuming his true growing season is much much shorter season that we even see here in CFL.

I think it was you bug-guy that mentioned the 0-0-62 - could you, Ric or another experienced applicator explain that 0-0-62 like many fertilizers can reach that nutritional rating by a variety of inputs. Such as SOP/MOP and what you feel if preferred for his location and what if anything is different and you would prefer for your location?

the_bug_guy
11-26-2011, 09:07 PM
in central fl if you want a real green lawn thru christmas unless a hard freeze hits u start Nov/Dec with 1/4 nitogen 3/4 lb Sulfate of potash and chealted iron at 30% over label (per thousand)..... greenest lawns on the street