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South Florida Lawns
12-04-2011, 07:18 PM
One of my trimmer racks keeps coming loose on the wall of my enclosed trailer. I attached them with self tapping bolts to the steel frame of my trailer however with all the bumps and commercial use the screws keep backing out.

I have the thin white walls in my trailer and can't add any 2x4's to bolt the racks too otherwise racks would stick out too far and mowers wont fit (narrow 7x14 trailer) any Ideas?

I'm about to weld the things to the wall!

The left side rack is the one giving me problems.

KrayzKajun
12-04-2011, 07:41 PM
It doesn't look the greatest. But I've seen people run bolts all the way through the wall of the trailer. Put a lag bolt with the smooth head on the outside the trailer.
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South Florida Lawns
12-04-2011, 07:59 PM
I have thought of doing that, thats my last resort.

ecurbthims
12-04-2011, 09:16 PM
You can try a larger self tapper ,or try moving the rack up or down enough for a fresh hole ,but pretty much any self tapper will do exactly what you have now eventually .
You can also try a "nutsert " ,which is pretty much a rivet with threads in it .A big steel rivet might work as well depending on how heavy your racks are .
Any chance you can bolt and nut it to the trailer up-rights ? drilling an access hole right beside the upright or removing the inner panel would probably be required ,but it will be the most permanent method .

stonebridge
12-04-2011, 09:41 PM
if its just backing out. do this get some clear latex caulk and put caulk on the treads of the screw, this will keep it from backing out and if you ever need to take screw out them come right out. caulk gives enough resistance to screw so it wont back out. i done it to a few of my things and never had them back out again

South Florida Lawns
12-04-2011, 09:49 PM
if its just backing out. do this get some clear latex caulk and put caulk on the treads of the screw, this will keep it from backing out and if you ever need to take screw out them come right out. caulk gives enough resistance to screw so it wont back out. i done it to a few of my things and never had them back out again

Tried latex caulk and silicone too still worked out after a few weeks.

I think I will cut away the white laminate and have the metal rack bolted directly to the metal trailer frame that way less movement and a tighter grab for the bolts.

I'll let you guys know how it goes this week.

Thanks for the help guys.

stonebridge
12-04-2011, 09:54 PM
pl400 construction caulk once it hardens it in there!!

ecurbthims
12-05-2011, 10:35 AM
you might need a little backer inside the wall ,the uprights are often a very thin aluminum extruded I beam ,and also make sure your using flat and lock washers or locknuts .

CandyAces
12-05-2011, 11:27 PM
Try locktite!

NEW CITY LAWN CARE LLC
12-06-2011, 12:06 AM
http://www.pcepoxy.com/

South Florida Lawns
12-08-2011, 09:59 PM
you might need a little backer inside the wall ,the uprights are often a very thin aluminum extruded I beam ,and also make sure your using flat and lock washers or locknuts .

Wow I'm dumb I need some socking washers, totally left those out even after all these years with my trailer.

Should I get the snap washers or the external star locking washer?

ecurbthims
12-08-2011, 11:34 PM
I never bought the external star jobbies ,but either one should work fine .

Mow4It
12-09-2011, 10:45 AM
Without bolting through the side of the trailer wall there is nothing that will prevent this from happening. Even if you could loctite the threads to keep the screws from backing out, eventually the threads will pull out of the wall. There is just too much flex and vibration in those walls to ever hold it rigid.

If it were mine I would get some stainless steel 1/4" - 20 binding head or pan head screws (binding heads are lower profile than pan heads) with a 1 1/4" fender washer under it, drill through the trailer wall and put another fender washer and nylock nut on the trimmer rack. A small dab of silicone under the outside of the bolt & washer will prevent any water from getting in there. You may have to go back and occasionally snug the nut because with that thin extruded channel in the wall, it's going to collapse slightly over time due to the flex of the trailer and torque on the bolt - but nothing extreme; 1/8 of a turn maybe. Just tighten the bolt enough to hold it snug, anything more will just unnecessarily collapse the wall and you will have a dished spot or dent in your trailer wall.

http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww78/StihlMS290/Bindingheadscrew.jpg

RGM
12-09-2011, 11:04 AM
I had a enclosed trailer a few years back I put selves and racks in it. I aligned the racks and shelves up with the side bolts the trailer came with backed them out and put longer ones back in worked great and still looked good.

unkownfl
12-09-2011, 04:49 PM
Screw a full sheet of 3/4 plywood on paint it white and screw your 2x4 to it with the carriage bolts going to your rack.