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View Full Version : Tank/Pump set-up revisited


txirrigation
12-05-2011, 07:17 PM
We are almost done with it. We have had the drinking water up and on line for a few weeks, but we just got the large irrigation tank delivered and plumbed in. Once the electrician gets back out we have to install one more pressure tank, switch, float switch, etc.

You can see the full pic at:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=366113

Sprinkus
12-06-2011, 03:21 PM
Looks good, although I'd put some metal piping on the pump inlet and outlet in case there were ever a situation that caused the pump to overheat.
What kind of tank fill control system did you end up using?

1idejim
12-06-2011, 06:46 PM
We are almost done with it. We have had the drinking water up and on line for a few weeks, but we just got the large irrigation tank delivered and plumbed in. Once the electrician gets back out we have to install one more pressure tank, switch, float switch, etc.

You can see the full pic at:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=366113

would brass and union from the pump make sense? brass to dissapate heat and the union for adjustments or easy replacement (i like vertical unions as a guard against vibration created leaks), i personally don't like the red handled ball valves, the handles break and i would have used a sweep or 4-22 and 1/2 degree fittings at the top (yellow arrow)

the job looks good, pretty clean, great primer control for texas!!!!!!!!!!!

txirrigation
12-06-2011, 07:12 PM
Looks good, although I'd put some metal piping on the pump inlet and outlet in case there were ever a situation that caused the pump to overheat.
What kind of tank fill control system did you end up using?

Well, we used shed 80 in and out of the pump. The Pressure switch has a low pressure shut off, which will shut down the pump if it runs out of water. In most cases the reason for over heating is no water, so I have that covered.

I used a float switch that controlls an irrigation valve, works great.

txirrigation
12-06-2011, 07:19 PM
would brass and union from the pump make sense? brass to dissapate heat and the union for adjustments or easy replacement (i like vertical unions as a guard against vibration created leaks), i personally don't like the red handled ball valves, the handles break and i would have used a sweep or 4-22 and 1/2 degree fittings at the top (yellow arrow)

the job looks good, pretty clean, great primer control for texas!!!!!!!!!!!

I have had good luck with the red handled valves, you just have to baby them at the start of the turn.

I agree with everything you have said. Problem is I am not there most of the time to manage everything. As long as it is a good product, up to code, and cuts my quaility controll mustard; it gets the thumbs up.

I usually do not install unions until the first repair, I have found much of the time the union itself starts leaking before anything breaks. Since this is a totally custom design, this will be our baby for a long time.

--- When no one is looking we just use Christy's Red hot, and only primer inside of the fitting

Mike Leary
12-06-2011, 07:43 PM
Excuse me, but unless there will be an enclosure around that lash-up,(even sch 80) works not for me because of the u.v. exposure. It's a custom, high-end install, why not do it in brass, or, at least, copper? Even (gasp) gavanized would be better than pvc. I would never permit my pump guys to use pvc (other than their sch 80 feed) if I thought it would be exposed, and even then, "let's go brass".

txirrigation
12-06-2011, 07:56 PM
Excuse me, but unless there will be an enclosure around that lash-up,(even sch 80) works not for me because of the u.v. exposure. It's a custom, high-end install, why not do it in brass, or, at least, copper? Even (gasp) gavanized would be better than pvc. I would never permit my pump guys to use pvc (other than their sch 80 feed) if I thought it would be exposed, and even then, "let's go brass".

I'll post pics of the custom enclosure when they are done. Each pump will be enclosed in it's own box with a 115v light mounted in it to prevent freezing. All the pipe will also be wrapped in insulation to prevent freezing, and GASP UV rays. haha

I ain't no hack.

The pumps are also bolted to the concrete with 1" rubber spacer washers to eat up the vibration, although there still will be some.

Mike Leary
12-06-2011, 08:58 PM
I ain't no hack.

We know that, but the pups reading these posts need to know how to do it, without screwing it up.:dizzy:

txirrigation
12-06-2011, 09:01 PM
ha, I will post the final pics. I am making the boxes myself, and probably am too stengy to pay one of my guys to put the insualtion on the pipe so I will do that too.

Mike Leary
12-06-2011, 09:13 PM
am too stingy to pay one of my guys to put the insulation on the pipe so I will do that too.

I will correct the spelling, but it's your job to teach the pups, remember?

txirrigation
12-06-2011, 09:23 PM
I will correct the spelling, but it's your job to teach the pups, remember?

I can run one heck of a business, but I will always be dyslexic. Graduated top of my class out of college, with a 4th grade spelling level.


-proof-

greenmonster304
12-06-2011, 10:21 PM
Excuse me, but unless there will be an enclosure around that lash-up,(even sch 80) works not for me because of the u.v. exposure. It's a custom, high-end install, why not do it in brass, or, at least, copper? Even (gasp) gavanized would be better than pvc. I would never permit my pump guys to use pvc (other than their sch 80 feed) if I thought it would be exposed, and even then, "let's go brass".

What, no stainless hardware on those valves. Pups, don't listen to him he's the hack. Ha Ha.
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