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dalealan
01-26-2012, 10:25 PM
My Hustler Fast Track SD has been great this last year, but with the drought in Texas there are a lot of bare spots and the mower makes lots of dust, TONS OF DUST. It might not be such a problem if it would come out behind the mower but it blows out at the front of the deck and then you drive through the dust cloud.
Thinking of using some kind of flexible material along the leading edge of the deck to keep it from blowing out. Maybe something like a 2" nylon belting that would flex if needed but remain rigid other times. I realize that the deck pressure is caused by the high lift blades creating so much pressure under the deck ( I assume that is correct). Or should I just find some lower lift blades? I've got to do something to stop the dust.

Any ideas? Comments?

jiggz
01-26-2012, 11:22 PM
Just a thought what about those plastic strips they use for doorways in wearhouss to heep the heat in..you would only need
One piece cut it a couple inches wide.. You could probally hold it on with stripsof velcro iht length of each side of the deck
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Turf Dawg
01-26-2012, 11:22 PM
I put a factory anti-blowout kit on my XR7 deck and it pretty much eliminated the blowout. Check with Hustler and see if they make one for yours.

Ridin' Green
01-26-2012, 11:42 PM
Switching to low lifts is the way to go, and is going to help more than any strip across the front. On top of that, you don't really want the front edge to be lowered. That would make it bend the grass down even more than the front skirt already does, whicj isn't what you want, and it would reduce the QOC.

weeze
01-26-2012, 11:59 PM
what height do you cut at? perhaps lower the deck a little to see if that helps.

jiggz
01-27-2012, 12:58 AM
Switching to low lifts is the way to go, and is going to help more than any strip across the front. On top of that, you don't really want the front edge to be lowered. That would make it bend the grass down even more than the front skirt already does, whicj isn't what you want, and it would reduce the QOC.

every time i disagree the post gets deleted, I hope it doesn't happen again..Dont you want to bend the grass down? that way its naturally bringing it self back up.. essentially running itself to the blade..Without push down from the fascia of the deck.. the mowing blade itself would blow grass forward hindering the quality of cut.. thats just my opinion though..thats the reasoning behind most decks being set at a forward rake..

Ridin' Green
01-27-2012, 10:34 AM
every time i disagree the post gets deleted, I hope it doesn't happen again..Dont you want to bend the grass down? that way its naturally bringing it self back up.. essentially running itself to the blade..Without push down from the fascia of the deck.. the mowing blade itself would blow grass forward hindering the quality of cut.. thats just my opinion though..thats the reasoning behind most decks being set at a forward rake..


No, that's not right at all, the forward rake is for a few reasons, several of which are explained pretty well in most of Deere's owners manuals, along with decent drawings of what they are talking about. The first is because having the blade flat in the grass places extra wear to the spindle and creates an extra load on the engine from the extra drag (which they say will wear the engine prematurely). The second is because having a blade that is flat in relation to the grass surface will leave a wavy look to the surface of the grass. You only want the forward edge of the blade to be doing the cutting, not the entire blade. Also, by having the rear of the deck set somewhere between 1/8" and 1/2" (depending on the make of your machine, the blades you are using, and the cutting conditions) you are creating a vacuuming affect at the rear, which is what helps the grass stripe so nicely by creating a strong draft at the rear of the deck, and that draft helps with creating high airflow under the deck and out the discharge chute.

One other thing- go take a look at most decks made today. The front skirt is higher than the side and rear walls. That's is to allow the grass to pass under the front as unimpeded as possible. As an example, if you are cutting in springtime growth conditions where you may have to take off 4-6" per week, having the front skirt too low will keep the blades of grass bent/held down before the cutting blades can cut them, which makes them skip over a lot of it. What I am talking about is easily demonstrated if you go and try to cut a field that has tall grass, with a finish mower. There will be a lot of uncut, or partially cut stems of grass after the pass is made. The high rpm's of the blades and the suction created by the lift fins are what makes the grass stand up to be cut, not any spring back action (which would be negated by all the turbulence under the deck anyway).

orangemower
01-27-2012, 11:06 AM
Mr. Green got a bit technical with all that.

I'm going against what he said and say that you CAN put a flap so to speak on the front and it shouldn't cause enough of a issue that the cut will not be right. Just don't use "velcro" to hold it on. LOL The vacuum that is produced from the blades will pick up the grass blades and cut them. His example of cutting a field is right. You'll have a bunch of uncut stalks that didn't get cut. Then again, we're using a finish mower on normal height (for the most part) grass and not a field with 3ft tall hay/straw growing. Even if you do NOTHING to the deck, it's still going to leave uncut grass if it's really tall. Doesn't matter what you do to the mower deck. With that said, try attaching a flap on the front and see how it works. I know I've read on here of guys doing it and it worked for them. For me, I put up with the dust cloud. :hammerhead:

Ridin' Green
01-27-2012, 11:19 AM
My example about cutting field grass may have been a taking it to the extreme, but it is an easy way to demonstrate what I am talking about, and it still holds true for normal conditions. :)

I would never recommend putting anything around the skirt that will impede airflow though. Like I said in my first post, I would use low lift blades first. I used to cut a 2 acre property for an very elderly lady (until she passed away), and a lot of it was very thin grass in sandy soil. I went from std lift blades to low lifts, and it made all the difference in the world. The low lifts still had enough lift to get the job done cleanly, but cut way down on the dust.

Turf Dawg
01-27-2012, 12:06 PM
Blowout kits actually do two things. They give you more suction at the leading edge of deck and stop/highly reduce blowout. So in thin grass or when cutting higher it stands the grass up better. In stemy grasses such as Bahia and Bluestem it will push them over more. That is why on decks with the adjustable front lip they recommend it all the way up for tall and stemmy grasses and all the way down for thin grasses or cutting higher.

To the OP. If you are cutting Bahia you will probably not like it. However if you are cutting Bermuda low or St Augustine high 3" and above you will love it.