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Jimmykubish
02-09-2012, 07:47 PM
I have a husqvarna sit down zero turn mower. 38 inch deck so its a little on the light side. Just put new turf saver tires on it and the end of last year. when i turn (either zero turn or 3 point turn) i need to go super slow to not tear up the grass. has anyone else had this issue? have you found wheel weights to add more weight? im running tires at 15 lbs which is what is recommended from the factory. Even my front caster wheels make marks sometimes which is very frustrating. Does anyone else have these issues? i feel like im the only one...:confused:

jsslawncare
02-09-2012, 08:01 PM
You're not the only one. It takes time and practice to make a turn without tearing up the lawn. I know you're new on it because almost all of us do this in the begining. It just takes some time and you make a turn wide open and never slow down and not tear the lawn up.

Jimmykubish
02-09-2012, 08:05 PM
well, ive had it for about a year now. Honestly, it doesn't seem like a technique thing. even if i ease on the stick super slow especially in reverse, one of the tires spin.... you dont think tire weights is a good idea? im getting ready to throw that mower out the window... or is there some special "trick" im missing?

Ridin' Green
02-09-2012, 08:15 PM
No, he's right. It just takes practice, whether or not you believe it's a technique thing or not. You just have to be realy smooth on the sticks. After a while you start getting the knack of it and wonder why it took so long. Don't get frustrated or give up. Buying a different ZTR will only make it longer before you get the hang of it, and you'l still have the same problem.

SouthSide Cutter
02-09-2012, 08:17 PM
It is really hard to make a true zero turn without making some kind of mark. I just make a 3pt turn.

Jimmykubish
02-09-2012, 08:20 PM
thanks guys.

any advice on the caster wheels making marks? say im going forward and i stop and pull straight back, when the wheels do a quick turn around the other way sometimes they make a mark, especially on shallow rooted lawns. they are the square type. maybe the rounded type would do better?

Ridin' Green
02-09-2012, 08:34 PM
Make sure they're not under-inflated. Anytime you try to rotate a tire in place and there's much weight on it it'll leave a mark.

roeslandscaping
02-09-2012, 11:17 PM
I had this problem when i started out. Just getting to the end of your row, pushing left up and pulling right and doing 180degree turn. everyone does it their first time. I see guys that sell these mower do it. here is a pic of a way to do it without messin up turf. 3pt turn.

roeslandscaping
02-09-2012, 11:19 PM
I had this problem when i started out. Just getting to the end of your row, pushing left up and pulling right and doing 180degree turn. everyone does it their first time. I see guys that sell these mower do it. here is a pic of a way to do it without messin up turf. 3pt turn.

sorry my lines arent straight

Ridin' Green
02-09-2012, 11:28 PM
sorry my lines arent straight

I hope you at least charge extra for making those arrow heads and numbers in your lines when you mow.payup

roeslandscaping
02-09-2012, 11:32 PM
I hope you at least charge extra for making those arrow heads and numbers in your lines when you mow.payup

ha na its just something a little extra*trucewhiteflag*. no joke, i do designs in "fancy" lawns. like thr 1st letter of their last name, or one lady i mow for had brest cancer so i put a ribbon in her sloped front lawn. people like that stuff

unkownfl
02-09-2012, 11:34 PM
It could not be his technique. Sometimes soft soil or poorly rooted grass such as in shade area etc will always cause some kind of mark while turning.

Ridin' Green
02-09-2012, 11:38 PM
ha na its just something a little extra*trucewhiteflag*. no joke, i do designs in "fancy" lawns. like thr 1st letter of their last name, or one lady i mow for had brest cancer so i put a ribbon in her sloped front lawn. people like that stuff

That's pretty cool. Especially the ribbon.

If you can mow the writing on the breast cancer ribbon, you should win some type of award. LOL

unkownfl
02-10-2012, 12:00 AM
That's pretty cool. Especially the ribbon.

If you can mow the writing on the breast cancer ribbon, you should win some type of award. LOL

could always use round-up

Jimmykubish
02-11-2012, 01:44 AM
thanks for all the replies. I do do the 3 point turn as much as i can, but even that rips up the yard after a whole season of mowing. I really am leaning towards weighting down the mower a little bit... But when you do have a lawn that is very shallow rooted what do you do? i try to just go slow... do you just hope that the customer does not see? or do you break out the walk behind mower??

jsslawncare
02-11-2012, 08:28 AM
thanks for all the replies. I do do the 3 point turn as much as i can, but even that rips up the yard after a whole season of mowing. I really am leaning towards weighting down the mower a little bit... But when you do have a lawn that is very shallow rooted what do you do? i try to just go slow... do you just hope that the customer does not see? or do you break out the walk behind mower??

Do NOT add weight's to the mower, It's not going to help. It's heavy enough that's why it's rutting. Did you notice that everyone said the same thing, It take's time to be able to do this. And be sure to fix the grass becuase they will notice and you'll be fired.

jtsnipe
02-11-2012, 10:24 AM
If this is always in the same spots of the yard try mixing up the pattern to give the tire marks time to heal.Diagonal left, diagonal right,straight up and back and the old left,left,left.It will also give you more options to see what works when turning.

Doublewide6
02-11-2012, 12:52 PM
I had a husqvarna Iz4821 and that thing weighed about 880LBs. and never tore the grass at all. I moved up to a Toro Z-master 500 with a 60" deck and had problems right away with tearout. I use a 3 point turn and slow way down, Rotate how I cut the lawn so I turn in different spots each week, and have also had success mowing in a circular pattern to eliminate zero degree turns. Also I try to turn on the driveways as much as possible. Also try lowing the rear tire pressure. I run my tires at about 9 PSI and it seems better than 14 to me. Good Luck.

Thanksman
02-11-2012, 01:03 PM
Sounds to me, you want to put weights on your mower. You asked advice and everyone said the same thing it takes practice... but you still say to add weight. Well add it it and PRACTICE...:) good luck

TTM42
02-11-2012, 07:37 PM
ha na its just something a little extra*trucewhiteflag*. no joke, i do designs in "fancy" lawns. like thr 1st letter of their last name, or one lady i mow for had brest cancer so i put a ribbon in her sloped front lawn. people like that stuff

How do you do that? I mow a church and would love to find out how I could mow a cross in a wide open space they have. I have no idea how to go about it but if you wouldnt mind telling me how you do designs and things I would really appreciate it.

Jimmykubish
02-12-2012, 11:24 AM
Sounds to me, you want to put weights on your mower. You asked advice and everyone said the same thing it takes practice... but you still say to add weight. Well add it it and PRACTICE...:) good luck

well pratice makes prefect then! too bad i cant practice when its 10 degrres up here... summer needs to come! im in the snow business too and we have had 2 snows this year worth doing any snow removal... sucks!! :dizzy:

mtmower
02-12-2012, 01:46 PM
He said he just installed new tires as well. New tread always makes it tough. I run my tires as close to bald as I can while making sure I have safe traction. Also the type of grass, dirt, location, as mentioned before plays a major part. Practice, practice, practice.... and go slow keeping both wheels moving at ALL times. Definite divots when pivoting on one stopped wheel. Hang in there.

roeslandscaping
02-12-2012, 01:50 PM
Just raise your deck, turn your blades off, and when you get to where you want it done, lower the deck, turn the blades on, and repete the steps for a few weeks. I try to pull in to where i start from a stripe so there are no stray tire marks.Good Luck!

Creative Cuts
02-12-2012, 10:50 PM
i don't have a problem unless it's wet. U just have to make sure both tires are moving at the same time.

Misterbluesky
02-14-2012, 08:41 PM
As others have said adding weight won't help and may in fact make it worse. Lower tire pressure, slow down, alternate direction, and what he said. Practice makes perfect. Or a least better.

GRASSMONKEYS
02-15-2012, 11:12 AM
I had a 36" Bobcat Fast Cat, it did the same thing. I went to a dealer he said it was a common problem with the model becsause of the tire size, they are very narrow and tend to dig in a lot easier then a wider lower profiile tire. Creeping when turning defeats the purpose of having a zero turn in the first place. Happy with my Exmark now. Point is I noticed you had a 38" deck and it may be attributed to the same issue.

JimQ
02-15-2012, 12:55 PM
I have a husqvarna sit down zero turn mower. 38 inch deck so its a little on the light side. Just put new turf saver tires on it and the end of last year. when i turn (either zero turn or 3 point turn) i need to go super slow to not tear up the grass. has anyone else had this issue? have you found wheel weights to add more weight? im running tires at 15 lbs which is what is recommended from the factory. Even my front caster wheels make marks sometimes which is very frustrating. Does anyone else have these issues? i feel like im the only one...:confused:

I am assuming you've got one of these...

240083

Correct?

If so, I hate to be the one to give you the news, but...

In my opinion, they are the worst handling machine Husqvarna ever built. The fore / aft weight distribution is totally screwed up. They are very front heavy. Traction at the rear wheels is poor. It gets REALLY bad when it's wet and on hills. The small diameter of the rear tire also contributes. Because of the small diameter, there is a ton of torque and the tires break loose from the turf easily. The rear tire profile also sucks. It's rounded/crowned. Not flat/square like a good Turf Master. I know you said you put on a new set of Turf Savers but they are not a very aggressive tire. Poor traction. Cheap steering dampers also contribute. There are just a ton things working against you.

Contrary to what some have said, adding weight to the back of this machine will help your issue. You can also drop the pressure in the rear tires to around 10PSI.

You might also consider changing out the front caster tires to a set with a more round profile. The factory caster tires have a very square edge. With the square edge of the tire and the weight of the machine biased towards the front, they definitely tear up the turf!

Q

scotts lawn care
02-15-2012, 01:17 PM
Running a zero turn mower is a skill that will take time to be good at. We all were in your position at first, but like most things if you are doing something every day - you will improve. I always do a y turn/3 point turn when i mow. And each week i will change my mow pattern to stripe a property different. This way the lawns look like a baseball field- very professional.

clydebusa
02-15-2012, 01:52 PM
thanks for all the replies. I do do the 3 point turn as much as i can, but even that rips up the yard after a whole season of mowing. I really am leaning towards weighting down the mower a little bit... But when you do have a lawn that is very shallow rooted what do you do? i try to just go slow... do you just hope that the customer does not see? or do you break out the walk behind mower??

I run exmark 72"s which can be heavy and sometimes during the spring you just cant make a zero turn, you must arc it to keep from tearing up the grass.

I have seen some small toro homeowners ZTR's do what you say and just tear up the yard. Don't know why.

clydebusa
02-15-2012, 02:42 PM
I am assuming you've got one of these...

240083

Correct?

If so, I hate to be the one to give you the news, but...

In my opinion, they are the worst handling machine Husqvarna ever built. The fore / aft weight distribution is totally screwed up. They are very front heavy. Traction at the rear wheels is poor. It gets REALLY bad when it's wet and on hills. The small diameter of the rear tire also contributes. Because of the small diameter, there is a ton of torque and the tires break loose from the turf easily. The rear tire profile also sucks. It's rounded/crowned. Not flat/square like a good Turf Master. I know you said you put on a new set of Turf Savers but they are not a very aggressive tire. Poor traction. Cheap steering dampers also contribute. There are just a ton things working against you.

Contrary to what some have said, adding weight to the back of this machine will help your issue. You can also drop the pressure in the rear tires to around 10PSI.

You might also consider changing out the front caster tires to a set with a more round profile. The factory caster tires have a very square edge. With the square edge of the tire and the weight of the machine biased towards the front, they definitely tear up the turf!

Q

Well I didn't notice your posting when I posted. Problem the same issue with the TORO home depoot version. Which my father n law has and tears up his yard of fescue.

Tha5150
02-15-2012, 03:38 PM
there has been a lot of talk about tire pressure. i am assuming the lower pressure would also save you from bouncing around as well as more traction and better grip?
in the picture below, my tires are getting kind of worn. but it is my first zero turn. i am getting used to it but notice one tire always spinning when i am doing my 3 point turn and in reverse. are these a decent all around tire or should i get something else?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dNODTnObd5I/TxccSzD6M6I/AAAAAAAAtFg/leMfH2DZBUY/s800/image_2.jpeg

JimQ
02-15-2012, 04:44 PM
... i am assuming the lower pressure would also save you from bouncing around as well as more traction and better grip?

You've got it. Lowering the tire pressure can smooth out the ride and increase traction by increasing the size of the contact patch.

The down side is, when the tire side wall flexes, your Height of Cut changes.

You also have to be careful with the fronts. Lower the PSI too much and it becomes pretty easy to pop them off the bead.

I have to admit, I don't have much experience using the type of tires you have on your Chopper. We will have to see what Richard Martin says. He's the resident Dixie Chopper guy.

I will say this, it's hard to beat a good set of Turf Masters or Multi-Tracs

Q

Tha5150
02-15-2012, 04:46 PM
Thanks, Jim.

qurious what pressure i should be running in front and back. i have mine pretty high right now.

JimQ
02-15-2012, 05:50 PM
Thanks, Jim.

qurious what pressure i should be running in front and back. i have mine pretty high right now.

Just as a rule of thumb, 15 PSI front and rear is a good place to start.

Q

Jimmykubish
02-18-2012, 12:59 AM
I am assuming you've got one of these...

240083

Correct?

If so, I hate to be the one to give you the news, but...

In my opinion, they are the worst handling machine Husqvarna ever built. The fore / aft weight distribution is totally screwed up. They are very front heavy. Traction at the rear wheels is poor. It gets REALLY bad when it's wet and on hills. The small diameter of the rear tire also contributes. Because of the small diameter, there is a ton of torque and the tires break loose from the turf easily. The rear tire profile also sucks. It's rounded/crowned. Not flat/square like a good Turf Master. I know you said you put on a new set of Turf Savers but they are not a very aggressive tire. Poor traction. Cheap steering dampers also contribute. There are just a ton things working against you.

Contrary to what some have said, adding weight to the back of this machine will help your issue. You can also drop the pressure in the rear tires to around 10PSI.

You might also consider changing out the front caster tires to a set with a more round profile. The factory caster tires have a very square edge. With the square edge of the tire and the weight of the machine biased towards the front, they definitely tear up the turf!

Q

yes that is my mower with the exception of no headlights, box ect but same tires, frame, ect... did you have this machine at one point? how much weight would you reccomend? i have had this machine for a year now and had these issues, i have test driven other machines without any issues close to what i am having.... i had to replace the dampners already so i agree with you on that point also

Ridin' Green
02-18-2012, 01:06 AM
yes that is my mower with the exception of no headlights, box ect but same tires, frame, ect... did you have this machine at one point? how much weight would you reccomend? i have had this machine for a year now and had these issues, i have test driven other machines without any issues close to what i am having.... i had to replace the dampners already so i agree with you on that point also

I don't want to speak for Jim Q, but since he's not on right now-

I know he worked at/for Husqvarna for a long time, so he would know as much about them as anyone here.

Jimmykubish
02-18-2012, 01:15 AM
I don't want to speak for Jim Q, but since he's not on right now-

I know he worked at/for Husqvarna for a long time, so he would know as much about them as anyone here.

just clarifying are you saying he's pretty knowledgeable? im assuming so, but you said he would know as much about them as anyone here... lol sorry just confusing how you said it.

Ridin' Green
02-18-2012, 01:22 AM
Yes, Jim worked at Husqvarna. He knows as much, or more (probably lots more) than anyone else here about them.:)

Jimmykubish
02-18-2012, 01:25 AM
Yes, Jim worked at Husqvarna. He knows as much, or more (probably lots more) than anyone else here about them.:)

awesome. thanks. cant wait to hear back from him

JimQ
02-18-2012, 10:45 AM
Thanks Ridin' Green

Hi Jimmy.

I was a Test Engineer in a previous life. I worked as "Manager of Test, Compliance, and Proto" (fancy title, I know. :laugh:) for Husqvarna Turf Care for 6-7 years before they made the decision to close the location here in Beatrice about 18 months ago. I stayed here and opened an Outdoor Power Equipment service and repair business. Now I'm a mechanic / accountant / janitor / receptionist / parts guy....

The CZ was designed, built, and released to the world before I started with the company so don't blame me! :laugh: Your machine was still in production for a short time while I was there. It was one of the machines that our group was responsible for. So, yeah, I'm very familiar with it.

Also keep in mind, what I stated were opinions. And you know what they say about opinions... They are just like a-holes and elbows, everyone has 'em.

Q

JimQ
02-18-2012, 11:14 AM
...how much weight would you reccomend?

Shoot, sorry, forgot to address this part of your question.

I can't, in good conscience, even throw out a number. Too little and it will be ineffective, too much and it could be really bad. You could end up with the front end too light and go over backwards.

How about I teach you to fish instead...

But first, let me throw in my favorite disclaimer... THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION!

ZTR's tend to handle best when the weight bias is 18%-20% front and 82%-80% rear. Just remove vertical CofG from the equation because they are all similar enough for what we are talking about. Stray just a little from these numbers and the handling degrades quickly.

It is also best to keep the weight as close to the center of rotation (the rear wheels) as possible. Read this if you're wondering why...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia

Good luck Jimmy.

Q

Jimmykubish
02-18-2012, 12:57 PM
Shoot, sorry, forgot to address this part of your question.

I can't, in good conscience, even throw out a number. Too little and it will be ineffective, too much and it could be really bad. You could end up with the front end too light and go over backwards.

How about I teach you to fish instead...

But first, let me throw in my favorite disclaimer... THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION!

ZTR's tend to handle best when the weight bias is 18%-20% front and 82%-80% rear. Just remove vertical CofG from the equation because they are all similar enough for what we are talking about. Stray just a little from these numbers and the handling degrades quickly.

It is also best to keep the weight as close to the center of rotation (the rear wheels) as possible. Read this if you're wondering why...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia

Good luck Jimmy.

Q

thank you gotcha. ya i will experiment with the weight then. my model is a Z3815. how/where would you reccomend adding the weight? some kind of wheel weights?

besides handling, how would you review this machine? as far as cut quality? I think its alright. the deck pitch is very hard to adjust and get in right. the way they designed the adjustment system is crazy. I got the machine for a really good price with low hours. If i could do it over again I do not think I would buy this machine again