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gulfjoe
02-12-2012, 06:17 PM
What is an average price that you guys would charge to level a lawn 6500 sqft? I just purchased a new home in December and they did a pretty poor job installing the sod and with all the walking in the yard it has left it pretty bumpy. I am going to be using a McClane reel mower so i dont want to be scalping the yard every time I hit a bump. If you need more info just let me know.

Landrus2
02-12-2012, 06:25 PM
Pictures :waving:

Smallaxe
02-12-2012, 06:53 PM
I wouldn't try to do it all at once.

If there is a possibility of adding a thin layer that settles into the 'valleys' w/out disturbing the sod; I would add a sandy compost mix. This will in fact enhance the growth in those valleys and give the 'crown' a season to adjust.
Then next year or even this Fall, do it all again.

Otherwise, you can lift the sod in bad areas, level/settle the soil to what is required, then replace the sod. Do it early, b4 the heat comes.

These would be the 2, cheapest and healthiest methods of renovating the lawn, for smoothness. :)

gulfjoe
02-12-2012, 07:18 PM
heres the pics

WHIPPLE5.7
02-12-2012, 08:05 PM
I would almost junk out all the sod and level it real nice and seed it instead of sodding.

gulfjoe
02-12-2012, 08:11 PM
That is not in my budget.

SullysAllSeasons
02-12-2012, 08:18 PM
I would get ahold of whomever did the grade/sod work and have them come fix their mess...that looks like more than just being walked on, more like shotty work

gulfjoe
02-12-2012, 08:46 PM
the ground is still soft. I sink when i walk in some parts of the yard.

greendoctor
02-12-2012, 09:13 PM
I would get ahold of whomever did the grade/sod work and have them come fix their mess...that looks like more than just being walked on, more like shotty work

I second that. No landscaper in my parts could get away with such a poor install. The fact that the OP sinks when he walks on the lawn tells me that the ground was not rolled and graded properly prior to the sod being put down. The installer threw down the grass on ground that was not leveled properly. Get that turkey back there and make him do the job right.

DUSTYCEDAR
02-12-2012, 09:24 PM
u will never mow that with a reel mower
tear it out and start over

greendoctor
02-12-2012, 09:33 PM
A rotary mower on that Martian surface would look just as bad, if not worse. Make the installing contractor either fix it or re do it.

mikesturf
02-12-2012, 10:51 PM
I agree with everyone else, have the knucklehead come back and fix his work.

gulfjoe
02-13-2012, 08:15 AM
I will try, problem is I don't think they will come fix it. The builder is the one that hires the landscaper, so the builder would be on the hook for it. I was just looking for some quotes on what it would cost to level the yard. I am looking at doing it myself but wanted to see what the pros were charging.
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Hineline
02-13-2012, 02:05 PM
It would be more expensive then starting new. All the sod needs to come up and then the harley rake needs to go over it. This was a hack job!

Smallaxe
02-13-2012, 02:12 PM
When you think the ground is ready and level, Soak it down and water will settle down the soft spots. When it dries you relevel and lay the sod, then soak again.

Looks like you had the High School Debate Team put this sod down. High School Horticulture class would have done it correctly. :)

When it dries, go over good with an aerator [plugger] several times drag compost and sand over it. The again when the lawn has sufficiently recovered. Good Luck. :)

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 06:39 AM
As I expected, the builder of the house was only responsible for putting ground cover down. He said the yard was rolled and graded. I can vouch for them grading I cant vouch for how good of a job they did. So getting them to come out and redo it is not going to happen. There is no way that I can explain to wife that I need to tear out my brand new yard that is already starting to turn green. She would not allow it. Soooooo, back to my original question, can I just level out the spots with sand/compost/topsoil mix? The entire yard is not as bad as the pics I posted those were just the bad spots. Also what would one of your guys landscaping crew charge to come out and level this thing.

cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 07:26 AM
About $150 per 1000 sq ft for a sand top dress.
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gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 08:56 AM
Thank you cgaengineer. Now do you think that would fix the problem I currently have? Or would it have to been done in multiple applications?

cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 09:41 AM
I will pm ypu later on this...
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Smallaxe
02-14-2012, 09:54 AM
If you are going to just level it all with a topdress in a one time shot, then reseeding would also be an issue. Bad for sod though, could cause weed establishment instead. One could always pick up the worst pieces and add fertile soil underneath.

Having a 'landscape crew' come in and do it right is either out of budget or not. Having a landscape crew come in and do it in an 'unconventional' fashion is throwing good money after bad. DIY over time for correct results.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 10:00 AM
That is what i am thinking of doing. From what I have read and seen online.

If i have an area with a 3" low spot i would fill about 1/2-1" sand top soil mix, and let it settle and let the grass make its way through, then reapply sand top soil mix a few weeks later.

Is that kind of how it works with out gettting to technical with it?

Smallaxe
02-14-2012, 10:14 AM
That is what i am thinking of doing. From what I have read and seen online.

If i have an area with a 3" low spot i would fill about 1/2-1" sand top soil mix, and let it settle and let the grass make its way through, then reapply sand top soil mix a few weeks later.

Is that kind of how it works with out gettting to technical with it?

That is pretty much as technical as it gets.
Might want to consider compost as well.

clydebusa
02-14-2012, 10:39 AM
I assume you are stuck with that. If you are and you are going to do it yourself the cheapest way to take care of it would be to buy a roller and start rolling. When the grass starts growing this spring I would get a load of sandy soil and start filling in the low areas. Water good this coming year to establish the grass. It will take a season or two but it will eventually come out. When you mow I would mulch.

Good Luck.

Kiril
02-14-2012, 10:54 AM
Bring the soil up to field capacity, roll it out best you can, then start filling the low spots with a topsoil (sandy loam with compost would be ideal). As you have already discovered, if you do this incrementally you won't kill the existing turf. Beyond that, research how to irrigate properly. Many of those depressions look to be the result of walking on an extremely wet soil (i.e. mud).

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 10:59 AM
There has been pretty much zero irragation going on. Sod was laid in december and we have had at least 1 good rain shower a week since then sometimes more. That area that is very lumpy does not get much sun and it does feel muddy underneath. the products that you speak of. would it be best/cost effective to have loads delivered? What exactly would i ask for when I talk to the "Dirt Yard"

Kiril
02-14-2012, 11:26 AM
There has been pretty much zero irragation going on. Sod was laid in december and we have had at least 1 good rain shower a week since then sometimes more. That area that is very lumpy does not get much sun and it does feel muddy underneath. the products that you speak of. would it be best/cost effective to have loads delivered? What exactly would i ask for when I talk to the "Dirt Yard"

It would be far more cost effective to get your topsoil in bulk. That said, unless you have somewhere to store it, it won't do you much good to get more than you can use in one shot. You won't really know how much you need until you roll it out. Keep in mind, depending on the depth of the depressions once you have rolled it out, this method of "leveling" could take 1-2 years to get it right.

Also, word of warning. Some vendors sell a bagged "topsoil" that is worthless for leveling, if you decide to go the bag route. It needs to be primarily sand based, and the difference is clear in the weight of the bag.

RigglePLC
02-14-2012, 11:34 AM
Why not roll up the sod. Do about 20 by 30 ft section. Rake smooth (adding a bit of fill as needed). Relay sod. Keep moist until sod has rooted again. Topdressing with sand as needed. Add a few extra rolls of sod if any are destroyed. Give it extra care, water and feeding during the subsequent 12 months. Do it now as sod will be almost dormant. It will grow fast and root down quick when the soil temp gets over about 70.

How much has the sod rooted down so far?

Kiril
02-14-2012, 11:41 AM
Why not roll up the sod. Do about 20 by 30 ft section. Rake smooth (adding a bit of fill as needed). Relay sod. Keep moist until sod has rooted again. Topdressing with sand as needed. Add a few extra rolls of sod if any are destroyed. Give it extra care, water and feeding during the subsequent 12 months. Do it now as sod will be almost dormant. It will grow fast and root down quick when the soil temp gets over about 70.

How much has the sod rooted down so far?

I think ideally I would roll up an entire bounded section, till, regrade, roll it, water settle until the soil is at a relative uniform bulk density, then regrade where necessary. This however will likely negate reusing the turf.

Anyone want to bet on this being sandy topsoil on top of a compacted clay with no mixing at all?

Smallaxe
02-14-2012, 11:49 AM
Why not roll up the sod. Do about 20 by 30 ft section. Rake smooth (adding a bit of fill as needed). Relay sod. Keep moist until sod has rooted again. Topdressing with sand as needed. Add a few extra rolls of sod if any are destroyed. Give it extra care, water and feeding during the subsequent 12 months. Do it now as sod will be almost dormant. It will grow fast and root down quick when the soil temp gets over about 70.

How much has the sod rooted down so far?

That is what I would do, but it has already been ruled out as an option, for whatever reason.
That would also provide for an opportunity to bust up those shoe-shaped clunks of 'pottery-like' soil bases.

Smallaxe
02-14-2012, 11:50 AM
... Anyone want to bet on this being sandy topsoil on top of a compacted clay with no mixing at all?

Or no sand at all.

Kiril
02-14-2012, 11:53 AM
Or no sand at all.

I wouldn't bet on that. This site has all the signs of a relatively thin layer of topsoil with a confining layer directly beneath it.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 12:37 PM
I will post some pics of the house across the street that is close to being landscaped.
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RigglePLC
02-14-2012, 04:29 PM
Topsoil is fine, but don't add sand to clay--it gets harder yet. The clay particles fill in between the sand particles and result resembles concrete.
What is base soil? Is this red clay country? Is it workable or is it more suited to making bricks? Slippery when wet? Does it get big cracks when dry? Acid soil?

Roll it back; level the soil; roll it back in place. Do it before it comes out of dormancy.

clydebusa
02-14-2012, 05:22 PM
Topsoil is fine, but don't add sand to clay--it gets harder yet. The clay particles fill in between the sand particles and result resembles concrete.
What is base soil? Is this red clay country? Is it workable or is it more suited to making bricks? Slippery when wet? Does it get big cracks when dry? Acid soil?

Roll it back; level the soil; roll it back in place. Do it before it comes out of dormancy.

Probably right,, try rolling back some and see how it goes.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 06:18 PM
I may have left out a very important piece of the puzzle. My neighbor sits at a higher elevation than I do leaving a hill connecting our lots. That is also the side that is "soggy" and "lumpy". This is Georgia and my soils is red clay, I am not sure if they put a top soil down before laying the sod. They are still doing construction in the neighbor hood and I haven't been able to catch them in the middle of a sod job, I either see the very beginning or the very end. I have attached some pictures of the hill and an ungraded and landscaped lot.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 07:13 PM
Here is a link to my soil test. It will not let me upload it twice for some reason.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=366047&page=2

wrager
02-14-2012, 08:15 PM
That is the right tool normally, a box blade. In GA, you're not allowed to have drainage from your property run onto your neighbors, of which you are obviously a victim. They need to do a french drain for their doen spouts.

If you search, you will see photos of people in GA who have burried their Bermuda with sand, completely covered. It comes back. You really can't erradicate it. But you also can't do it at this time of the year. Heavy sanding needs to be done when the turf is growing vigorously like July/August.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg0411310416637.html

cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 08:51 PM
I may have left out a very important piece of the puzzle. My neighbor sits at a higher elevation than I do leaving a hill connecting our lots. That is also the side that is "soggy" and "lumpy". This is Georgia and my soils is red clay, I am not sure if they put a top soil down before laying the sod. They are still doing construction in the neighbor hood and I haven't been able to catch them in the middle of a sod job, I either see the very beginning or the very end. I have attached some pictures of the hill and an ungraded and landscaped lot.

I will bet $100 that no topsoil was trucked in or used...they will lay sod on unprepped soil, poor soil...
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cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 08:53 PM
That is the right tool normally, a box blade. In GA, you're not allowed to have drainage from your property run onto your neighbors, of which you are obviously a victim. They need to do a french drain for their doen spouts.

If you search, you will see photos of people in GA who have burried their Bermuda with sand, completely covered. It comes back. You really can't erradicate it. But you also can't do it at this time of the year. Heavy sanding needs to be done when the turf is growing vigorously like July/August.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg0411310416637.html

This guy is correct with sand timing. You will lose it all if you do it now.
Scalp the lawn in June and top dress with river sand. The lower you scalp the easier the job.
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cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 08:55 PM
Topsoil is fine, but don't add sand to clay--it gets harder yet. The clay particles fill in between the sand particles and result resembles concrete.
What is base soil? Is this red clay country? Is it workable or is it more suited to making bricks? Slippery when wet? Does it get big cracks when dry? Acid soil?

Roll it back; level the soil; roll it back in place. Do it before it comes out of dormancy.

Always hear this but never seen it happen...around here Bermuda is top dressed with sand. Core aeration prior to sand helps.
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DUSTYCEDAR
02-14-2012, 09:02 PM
sorry for your luck but builders keep me in biz by leaving that kind of mess behind.
like has been said if you can roll up the sod and fix the soil below do it.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 09:25 PM
This guy is correct with sand timing. You will lose it all if you do it now.
Scalp the lawn in June and top dress with river sand. The lower you scalp the easier the job.
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Just read that entire link that was posted... Builders Sand or River sand????
Also can someone point me to a website showing the law where my neighbors property cant drain on to mine.

gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 09:27 PM
This guy is correct with sand timing. You will lose it all if you do it now.
Scalp the lawn in June and top dress with river sand. The lower you scalp the easier the job.
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I can scalp low, I have the McClane and I think it goes down to 1/4"

cgaengineer
02-14-2012, 09:27 PM
Just read that entire link that was posted... Builders Sand or River sand????
Also can someone point me to a website showing the law where my neighbors property cant drain on to mine.

You will have to lookup your development code.

River sand...
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gulfjoe
02-14-2012, 09:46 PM
You will have to lookup your development code.

River sand...
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Where do I find development codes?
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RigglePLC
02-14-2012, 09:53 PM
Most states and cities have some sort of ordinance.
http://www.mlswa.org/legal/Archive/Legal32.htm

Natural drainage is OK, but if neighbor alters something to increase the flow--that is not legal.

Hineline
02-14-2012, 10:08 PM
Back in 2000 I did the grow-in at a Pete Dye course. In an effort to get the fairways right the builder brought in large hi-way style asphalt rollers and they ran them up and down the fairways then aerified right after. Maybe you could soak it really well like Kiril said and get a driveway asphalt roller to get it close then aerify and topdress with sand and compost mix.

gulfjoe
02-15-2012, 06:40 AM
I think I may have a plan of attack, someone please correct me if something sounds "OFF".

I am going to go ahead and start my regular maintenance, pre emergent, Lime "I have a very low PH level" and 30 day high nitrogen feedings. I am also trying to get irragation installed, so I would like to have that done befoer I start this project. My plans are to start this the weekend of July 4th with the long weekend. my plan will to be cut ass low as possible with my Toro rotary, then knock a lil more off the top with the McClane if possible without removing chunks of dirt. I plan on having 5 yards of RIVER sand delivered and see where that gets me. I have a question about putting all that sand down, should I apply a pre emergent after putting that much forigen soil down? Also I have another issue, I eat lunch with a guy that owns a rock shop/dirt yard etc etc, and I asked him if he carries river sand and he kind of gives me a funny look and starts naming off all these other sands and stuff. I know he says the popular one for the "Landscapers" is Brown #2. So are there any other names for river sand? I am in the deep south we have crazy names for some of the most simple things.

Thanks for the help all of your input is greatly appreciated.

cgaengineer
02-15-2012, 06:45 AM
Sand should be inert if it's from a river bed.
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cgaengineer
02-15-2012, 07:16 AM
Just make sure it's not white sand...looks terrible and it doesn't stay where you put it well. The large and small particles of river sand help hold the sand in place.
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avguy
02-15-2012, 09:09 AM
This company was recommended to me by the guy at my JD/Lesco.

http://www.shortmtnsilica.com/

gulfjoe
02-15-2012, 09:53 AM
Looks cool, i just dont think I am going to order sand from 300+ miles away to do the landscaping in my yard, nor am I going to try to talk someone in to letting me borrow/rent an asphalt roller to smooth my yard. Its sounds like it would be an awesome idea and work perfect, but I have a slight hill in my yard, and I can see it spinning and ripping up grass and causing more damage to driveway edges and sidewalk edges and damage to the actual grass. I also have the slightest clue where to get one. Thanks for the ideas but like my supervisors in the military always told me "Keep it simple Stupid". trying to get this done on a budget with better than average results.:laugh:

Kiril
02-15-2012, 10:44 AM
Looks cool, i just dont think I am going to order sand from 300+ miles away to do the landscaping in my yard, nor am I going to try to talk someone in to letting me borrow/rent an asphalt roller to smooth my yard. Its sounds like it would be an awesome idea and work perfect, but I have a slight hill in my yard, and I can see it spinning and ripping up grass and causing more damage to driveway edges and sidewalk edges and damage to the actual grass. I also have the slightest clue where to get one. Thanks for the ideas but like my supervisors in the military always told me "Keep it simple Stupid". trying to get this done on a budget with better than average results.:laugh:

I wouldn't recommend rolling it with an asphalt roller. You want to grow turf, not build a house on it. I wouldn't do the 5 yards of sand either, but it is your yard. A good lawn begins and ends with your soil. While topping with sand will fix your problems with the holes, it will be creating problems of its own. It also won't address problems with the soil your turf is growing in.

avguy
02-15-2012, 11:24 AM
Looks cool, i just dont think I am going to order sand from 300+ miles away to do the landscaping in my yard

Sorry....I should have clarified a little better. You were asking what type of sand & I thought this would show at least one type that lawn care professionals might recommend. I looked into this a couple years ago to get a solution to my 2 acres of Bermuda. It was not practical for me either. I will say I had one lawn care person tell me to heavily aerate it (almost to the point that it looks tilled) for a couple years. His thinking was that the plugs would eventually sink to the lowest point in the yard......sort of a self level I guess.

gulfjoe
02-15-2012, 11:30 AM
I wouldn't recommend rolling it with an asphalt roller. You want to grow turf, not build a house on it. I wouldn't do the 5 yards of sand either, but it is your yard. A good lawn begins and ends with your soil. While topping with sand will fix your problems with the holes, it will be creating problems of its own. It also won't address problems with the soil your turf is growing in.

5 yds of sand is for a 10500 sqft lot with a 1700 sqft slab and drive way. that is a rough guestimate of the amount of sand i need I have not gotten out and measured and done the actual equation to find the exact amount needed.

Hineline
02-15-2012, 02:35 PM
Kiril is probably one of the smartest soils guy on here but the quickest way to get rid of those bumps would be to roll with a heavy roller. You can relieve compaction for your soil structure over time through aeration. If it was good enough for Pete Dye, the largest golf construction firm in the world and the owners of Avalon Lakes CC then that's why I suggested it. It worked great and was on TV 3 months later for an LPGA event.

Kiril
02-15-2012, 10:04 PM
There is a huge difference between golf and residential turf, and acres vs. a couple thousand square feet. No one chooses to compact their soil if other options are available to you, especially when working with a clayey soil. Careful consideration has to be given towards what you will gain vs. what you will lose, and the cost of each. Beyond that, you may not be able to rid yourself of the compaction with standard aeration.

gulfjoe
02-16-2012, 09:49 AM
I have a quick question. I was just reading a pre emergents product label online and it said not to apply on newly set sod until the following year. Is this this true? What should I use for crabgrass/weed control this spring. I was planning on getting all this started march 1st. The sod was laid Dec 15th, and looking at my neighbors grass which was laid before mine most of thier yarsd look terrible, mostly from neglect but still I dont want to look like that. any help would be great.

Kiril
02-16-2012, 09:53 AM
Do nothing. The sod itself will act as a weed block for the majority of the coming season. Your concern right now is to get irrigation in (done right) and to fix the problem with the soil.

gulfjoe
02-16-2012, 10:11 AM
What should I use to treat the seams in the sod where there is a gap between sod rolls, and there is visible soil.
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Kiril
02-16-2012, 10:18 AM
Deal with it after you have fixed the problems and the sod is established.

cgaengineer
02-16-2012, 07:15 PM
Deal with it after you have fixed the problems and the sod is established.

What this guy says...
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Smallaxe
02-17-2012, 12:58 PM
I have a quick question. I was just reading a pre emergents product label online and it said not to apply on newly set sod until the following year. Is this this true? What should I use for crabgrass/weed control this spring. I was planning on getting all this started march 1st. The sod was laid Dec 15th, and looking at my neighbors grass which was laid before mine most of thier yarsd look terrible, mostly from neglect but still I dont want to look like that. any help would be great.

The reason that pre-m shouldn't be used on sod, is because pre-m is a root inhibitor...

I agree there should be no reason to pre-m fresh sod, but depending on how well it's rooted it may be safe to apply by now. Just don't overwater and there shouldn't be too much germination going on in a competitive environment.

gulfjoe
02-17-2012, 01:31 PM
Small Axe that totally makes sense to me. What should I do about the exsisting weed issue I have right now and may come up against in the coming months. I will post pics of my house and problems, and show you what my neighbors have and are dealing with.

My soil test was done and said I have a PH of 4.9. So I am going to start applying lime next weekend, and continually add lime throughout the upcoming months.

When should I start my high Nitrogen fert application? April?

Is there any herbicide I can use on the weeds I currently have that wont hurt the lawn?


The first photo is my house from the street

the next 2 are the weeds I currently have and that are pretty much all over the entire yard, that was just a larger problem area.

the following 3 are pics of my neighbors yard. There are several other homes in the neighborhood with newly laid sod that look just the same or worse.

the last 2 are spots where the sod was laid and didn't butt up to the other piece. I am going to experience problems there?


thanks for the help.

Smallaxe
02-17-2012, 02:12 PM
I'm too far north to give any ideas about how to do specifics.
But it doesn't look like the sod has done much, does it?

Those green spikes that we see popping up. Is that the weed you are dealing with, right now?
Some say, you can spray round-up over dormant grass without hurting the grass. As long as it isn't green...

wrager
02-17-2012, 02:52 PM
Here's a reference for you:
http://sandmantopdressing.com/prod-serv.htm

I wouldn't use any pre-m this year. It will slow root development. Be patient and don't worry about the weeds this year. Bermuda will choke them out. You can use liquid iron: http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Liquid-Iron-Concentrate-Quart/dp/B0015I6ZW8 in late April to help green up. Then start your fertilizing per the Bermuda Bible.

RigglePLC
02-17-2012, 06:05 PM
Correct uneveness. Begin your fertilization program when the grass greens up. Use a high-quality fertilizer with at least 30 percent of the nitrogen as slow release--50 percent of nitrogen as slow release is better. Fertilize about once per month until you have the grass thick--or until you cannot keep up with mowing. In future years, cut back the fertilizer to half as much.

Smallaxe
02-18-2012, 10:23 AM
How well does the soil soak up water there? Are the roots firmly established?

gulfjoe
02-18-2012, 10:51 AM
Nope, I am going to follow people's advice and deal with the weeds later. I pulled some sod up and it really didn't seem like it was rooting very well.
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cgaengineer
02-18-2012, 11:05 AM
Nope, I am going to follow people's advice and deal with the weeds later. I pulled some sod up and it really didn't seem like it was rooting very well.
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You can put a light app of pre on new Bermuda without any problems, I've done it several times. The label errors on the side of caution since pre's are root pruners but I think you will be fine.
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Smallaxe
02-18-2012, 01:26 PM
Nope, I am going to follow people's advice and deal with the weeds later. I pulled some sod up and it really didn't seem like it was rooting very well.
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2 months w/out settling into the soil would be disaster for cool season grasses, especially going through this winter drought and the constant freeze/thaw cycle.

Is your sod going to be OK? Is this a normal practice for the Southern Grasses?

Patriot Services
02-18-2012, 01:44 PM
2 months w/out settling into the soil would be disaster for cool season grasses, especially going through this winter drought and the constant freeze/thaw cycle.

Is your sod going to be OK? Is this a normal practice for the Southern Grasses?

Actually it is. Happens all the time. Especially when it isnt irrigated properly after install. The wide gaps tell me it dried out and shrank. Now it's likely dormant. I agree with rolling up a section at a time and correcting whats underneath. Builders around here are famous for stripping off the topsoil for sale and slapping down the sod hoping it stays green until they clear the site. Latest trick is St Augustine to the front edge, then Bahia to the backyard. Builders will always take shortcuts and are not likely to come back for any problems.:usflag:

cgaengineer
02-18-2012, 02:35 PM
Dormant laid Bermuda is not the best option, it has too many chances to get messed up prior to rooting...people do it all the time, but anytime you have a choice it's obviously better to do it during the warmer months.
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gulfjoe
02-18-2012, 02:55 PM
Dormant laid Bermuda is not the best option, it has too many chances to get messed up prior to rooting...people do it all the time, but anytime you have a choice it's obviously better to do it during the warmer months.
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cgaengineer,

Check your private messages please.

Smallaxe
02-19-2012, 02:13 PM
Actually it is. Happens all the time. Especially when it isnt irrigated properly after install. The wide gaps tell me it dried out and shrank. Now it's likely dormant. I agree with rolling up a section at a time and correcting whats underneath. Builders around here are famous for stripping off the topsoil for sale and slapping down the sod hoping it stays green until they clear the site. Latest trick is St Augustine to the front edge, then Bahia to the backyard. Builders will always take shortcuts and are not likely to come back for any problems.:usflag:

Up here in the frozen tundra I had some Poa Supina germinate inside the sun porch last summer, from rinsing out some pails. Because, we have had a mild winter the supina is still green, though not actively growing per se...

This foundation bed inside the sun porch continues to dry up and the roots of the perennials will surely suffer as a result... I continue to water the supina with everything else to help keep it alive through dormancy...

Winterkill is almost always due to dessication of the plant-life.. So, what you are saying about the Southern Sods, makes perfect sense...

Do Southern Pros concur???

Smallaxe
02-19-2012, 02:17 PM
PatriotServices, is in FL, not NE Patiots., so you are a Southern Pro, aren't you... :)

Patriot Services
02-19-2012, 02:37 PM
PatriotServices, is in FL, not NE Patiots., so you are a Southern Pro, aren't you... :)

That would be correct, but I don't like to boast. I have nothing against the Pats either.
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gulfjoe
02-19-2012, 08:45 PM
The gaps in the sod are just from the poor install. The yard has been properly irrigated ever since the install. We have had a good rain once a week since the install. I actually think I have drainage issues where some parts of the grass stay wet longer than other parts for about a length of 2 days. I am not sure what to do about that.

Patriot Services
02-19-2012, 09:43 PM
That's a real bad install. You can't fix this from the top down in my opinion. Take advantage of the sod not taking root yet to fix the problem.
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gulfjoe
02-21-2012, 04:10 PM
I have the builder coming by today, already does not sound like it going to go well after this phone call. I will post what he says and what they are willing to do.

gulfjoe
02-21-2012, 09:06 PM
Meeting with builder didn't go as good as I wanted. he let me know that landscaping was not under warranty and sold as is. So not looking at the lawn like I looked at the house has kinda bit me in the Ass. He has agreed to send the landscaper back out and roll the yard again. I also had issues with water sitting in the yard after big storms, and he showed thats how they graded my lawn and the other lawns and it was city ordinance that the water had to go somewhere, unfortunately its a huge river right through my lawn. He also told me that areas where the sod doesn't butt up against each other he said not to worry it will grow in. I am afraid of weeds coming in there. So it looks like I am going to be combating this problem myself over the summer and coming years. Thank you all for all your past help and future help.

Patriot Services
02-21-2012, 09:16 PM
What a bunch of b.s. excuses. Rolling won't fix jack. Yes weeds will be more than happy to fill in those gaps. He has no clue how to address drainage issues. I wonder how they got an inspector to sign off on that?
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gulfjoe
02-21-2012, 09:27 PM
What a bunch of b.s. excuses. Rolling won't fix jack. Yes weeds will be more than happy to fill in those gaps. He has no clue how to address drainage issues. I wonder how they got an inspector to sign off on that?
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He sai since there is no standing water there isn't an issue. He was saying the water table was high or something like that saying February is the wettest part of the year here and in april I won't be able to keep it wet.
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Smallaxe
02-22-2012, 09:34 AM
He sai since there is no standing water there isn't an issue. He was saying the water table was high or something like that saying February is the wettest part of the year here and in april I won't be able to keep it wet.
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:laugh: Talk about discussing anything except, the problem at hand...

What was the cause of the crappy job he did, and is he going to fix it for you?
Isn't that what we want to know? :)

gulfjoe
02-22-2012, 09:37 AM
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gulfjoe
02-22-2012, 09:40 AM
He isn't fix jack$h!t he is only going to try and appease me by rolling the yard. They kinda got me because it's written in the contract that landscape is sold as is and since I didn't complain before closing on the house they won't/don't have to do anything. So it's going to be my problem to fix. Of well it gives me a good spring/summer project.
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Kiril
02-22-2012, 09:48 AM
I also had issues with water sitting in the yard after big storms, and he showed thats how they graded my lawn and the other lawns and it was city ordinance that the water had to go somewhere, unfortunately its a huge river right through my lawn.

He is right here. If you don't like it, then you are either faced with modifying the soil to improve infiltration, drainage lines, or building a non-lawn swale. Personally I would go with the non-lawn swale.

He also told me that areas where the sod doesn't butt up against each other he said not to worry it will grow in. I am afraid of weeds coming in there. So it looks like I am going to be combating this problem myself over the summer and coming years. Thank you all for all your past help and future help.

Again he is right, that however doesn't excuse the horrific hack job that was done.

gulfjoe
02-22-2012, 09:52 AM
I could see it in the builders face that he was not happy with the install either, but he had to back up his company policy. He was on the phone with the landscaper as soon as we were done talking, but all i got out of the deal was a yard rolling.

Smallaxe
02-22-2012, 09:56 AM
If you got clay, and the watertable is supposedly high, don't even have it rolled... find out first if any of the sod survives...

gulfjoe
02-24-2012, 06:01 PM
So I downloaded the Scotts iPhone app and was messing with it today. They have a weed ID function that sends an email to Scotts and the ID it. they called this lemongrass. Do any of you agree with this being lemon grass.

Patriot Services
02-24-2012, 06:08 PM
Yep and you will see more of it, especially in those seams. So moving forward what are the plans? I wouldn't let the builder roll dormant grass. No good will come of it.:usflag:

gulfjoe
02-24-2012, 06:29 PM
I have been pulling it, and the grass has been coming out of dormancy with the day time temps in the 70's. they dont plan on rolling for another 2 weeks anyways. What would the damage be from rolling?

Patriot Services
02-24-2012, 06:35 PM
I have been pulling it, and the grass has been coming out of dormancy with the day time temps in the 70's. they dont plan on rolling for another 2 weeks anyways. What would the damage be from rolling?

Won't hurt the live grass. I highly doubt it will make a difference in the appearence.:usflag:

phillie
02-24-2012, 07:41 PM
WOW, man I feel bad for ya. That is the worst sod job I have seen. Can you not contact the BBB? If nothing gets done I would put a huge sign in the yard saying "So and So Landscape sodded my lawn and now it looks worse than the moon" Take a pic of the lawn with the sign in it and send it to the landscape company. Make sure the sign is readable and the lawn shows these areas. If they care about their rep, they will do something. How do you even get those gaps in the sod like that? Did they not use staples? My suggestion is to bypass the builder and attack the landscape company. The builder obviously has no idea what hes talking about.

Smallaxe
02-24-2012, 07:55 PM
What would be wrong with lifting the sod and rake it smooth with some sandy loam, in the spots that really need it?

Is there any kind of warranty that will cause the scapers to redo, if this just up and dies? Which it sounds like this grass, just might do?

When you pull up the Lemon Grass; are there roots left behind? will 2 more pop up, for every one you pull? I don't have lemon grass up here, but I learned from thistles, that RU may be your best option... Is that true?? ... :)

Patriot Services
04-10-2012, 09:33 AM
So what did you decide to do and how is it progressing?
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gulfjoe
04-10-2012, 10:45 AM
Having my irrigation installed next week and waiting till July 4th weekend to do the leveling. Going to have 6 yard or #1 brown sand dropped off. It's the closest thing I can find to river sand. Then I am going to scalp the yard. Then spread and level with push rooms. Then I will see how it turns out and probably spot treat from there.
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gulfjoe
04-10-2012, 10:46 AM
As for the weeds I am glove treating with round up.
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Kiril
04-10-2012, 10:56 AM
Having my irrigation installed next week

Hopefully your irrigation contractor is more competent than your sod contractor. :dizzy:

gulfjoe
04-10-2012, 01:07 PM
This guy had an answer for all my questions and was very knowledgable about his products. He is also very busy so I am guessing that is a good sign. Side note I did not chops the sod guy.
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gulfjoe
04-10-2012, 01:08 PM
This guy had an answer for all my questions and was very knowledgable about his products. He is also very busy so I am guessing that is a good sign. Side note I did not chops the sod guy.
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Choose the sod contractor
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gulfjoe
03-13-2013, 08:17 PM
I am bringing this thread back to life for a little more input.

I am planning to level the area shown in the photo from the end of the shrub bed down to the street about 950 SQFT. I really want to use this reel mower i bought so I am going to tackle it here soon. Here are my questions I may have asked them here on this thread in the past but I am looking for some fresh answers and i dont feel like reading through every post.

1. Can I top dress with sand in April to mid April?
2. Should I aerate before or after top dressing with sand? planned on aerating April 15th
3. I know I mow the lawn as low as possible and bag. but at what depth do i put the sand at? 1/4" 1/8"?
4.Should I fertilize prior to topdressing?
5. We do not have river sand down here in Columbus GA. People look at me crazy when I go to the suppliers and ask about it. they have something called #1 Brown (http://www.durtywurks.com/?page_id=314) has anyone ever heard of this? is there an alternative?
6 Am i missing anything? please let me know. If anyone has any good link or how tos on this that would be awesome.

Thanks in advance

gulfjoe
03-15-2013, 08:55 AM
Bump
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Patriot Services
03-15-2013, 10:23 AM
If it were me. I would aerate, mow to bust the plugs. Fertilize. Topdress small areas at a time. The #1 sand looks good, but I always like to see a little compost mixed in. Spread with shovel and use a pushbroom to smooth. Take your time. You can fill depressions up to an inch this way.
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macgyver_GA
03-15-2013, 11:22 AM
Keep us posted on the results

Me and my neighbor plan on leveling our bermuda lawns in May of this year. I will post pics when we do.

I'm going to use River sand.

I'm debating on going ahead and adding the compost ahead of time when I do my spring scalp at the beginning of April. Then I'll do the river sand around memorial day.

I picked up a 20" Tru-cut reel mower at the end of last season. I'm looking forward to using it this year.

Patriot Services
03-15-2013, 11:43 AM
I'm a firm believer in adding in compost. I prefer to 50-50 mix. Not only for the OM benefit, but with the calcierious sand we have here it helps hold the chems, fert, and water a little better. The leeching effect of the native sandy soil leads to a lot of nutrient and product loss. I'm sure the GA sandy soil is pretty close in composition.
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frotis
03-15-2013, 02:04 PM
Hope you get it worked out.

gulfjoe
03-15-2013, 03:18 PM
Keep us posted on the results

Me and my neighbor plan on leveling our bermuda lawns in May of this year. I will post pics when we do.

I'm going to use River sand.

I'm debating on going ahead and adding the compost ahead of time when I do my spring scalp at the beginning of April. Then I'll do the river sand around memorial day.

I picked up a 20" Tru-cut reel mower at the end of last season. I'm looking forward to using it this year.
Yeah I found a deal on a 20" McClane 7blade so picked it up. The Tru Cuts are we're to high in my area.
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gulfjoe
03-15-2013, 03:20 PM
I am going to copy this guy to an extent...

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg061042369630.html
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Patriot Services
03-15-2013, 05:06 PM
If he had mixed in the compost the first time he wouldn't be doing it again next year. He also should have addressed the CG with a proper pre-em, again not waiting until next year.
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