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thethirstymoose
02-18-2012, 07:17 PM
Hey guys I recently bought a lot of shindaiwa trimmers, mainly to fix and use..I have one I'm not sure of the model mumder, maybe omeone here will know it. It's not a T270, the set up is different, the label is torm but T can make up t--3(possibly)0, The gas tank holder doesn't wrap around the gas tank it has a "stand" I guess is the best way to describe it.It looks like my t-27 but isn't a t-27 But the t-27 housing fits on it. I wish I could post some pics that might make it easier. The distinquising marks are the gas tank holder. I looked on Partstree.com to try and locate a model, but I didn't see anything to resemble t, Also the serial number is screatched off or wore off. thanks in advance*trucewhiteflag**trucewhiteflag**trucewhiteflag*:usflag:

Landrus2
02-18-2012, 07:25 PM
Can you post picture.

thethirstymoose
02-18-2012, 07:43 PM
I can take a pic with my cell and send it to you

bob
02-18-2012, 08:53 PM
It could be a T-20. I beleive they also use to make a T-350.

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-18-2012, 11:17 PM
If memory serves me correctly, the T25 and T250 share the same fan / clutch housing as the T27.

Posting a picture would be quickest.

thethirstymoose
02-18-2012, 11:29 PM
If anyone wants to post their cell I can send a pic or email me at Thethirstymoose@aol.com

thethirstymoose
02-19-2012, 06:36 PM
Not sure of the model number, notice how the gas tank assembly is different then most shindaiwa's, the model tag is tore, any help is appreciated T-_ _ 0

IMAG0015.jpg (59.5 KB)
IMAG0016.jpg (54.6 KB)

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-19-2012, 07:35 PM
You have what looks like a T27 engine and shaft, but the cylinder cover was once replaced with a T270 cylinder cover. The T27 trimmers had the "primer pump" fuel line and the stand like yours has. If you could post a picture of the back or recoil side of the engine, I could possibly help you out even further with identification.

thethirstymoose
02-19-2012, 09:02 PM
I have a t27 and mine is different then this one....Maybe it's a t27B? I just need to know just incase I need parts....

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-19-2012, 11:47 PM
After further looking at it, I think I need to correct myself for the other post. This trimmer is a early serial number NON EPA T270 and someone has put on a T27 stand. The fuel systems were pretty much identical between the T27 and EARLY T270 engines. Shindaiwa quickly upgraded the T270 system to match the T230 style fuel lines and tank breather for parts interchangeability and better performance. Make sure you put the two other screws back in that holds the engine to the red clutch housing. I can see a gap there.

If you ever need to get parts, look for the early serial or NON EPA parts lists for the T270 trimmer. The later EPA compliant T270 engines has a completely different carb, fuel lines, tank, etc, which yours doesn't have.

I've checked all my own factory correct T27, early T270 and late T270 trimmers to compare with how yours has been put together and to make myself feel that everything I am saying is correct, this time.

thethirstymoose
02-20-2012, 12:07 AM
well here's the crazy thing.I'm looking at getting another lot of trimmers, and one of them in the lot is exactly like this one.they run great, but just an awkward set up the housing is not like a 270.....

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-20-2012, 12:32 AM
What do you mean the housing is not like a 270?

thethirstymoose
02-20-2012, 12:44 AM
I have a 270 disassembled(waiting on a gearcase and main shaft) so I will take some pics tomorrow, but I do think this trimmer is related to the t-27, it's similar and I know the t27 and 270 are real similar, so I think we are on the right path

weve
02-20-2012, 05:00 PM
It looks very similar to my 1998 or 1999 model PB270 which is the PowerBroom version. The fuel primer and fuel filter are the same. The fuel tank guard is different -- mine wraps around the tank.

thethirstymoose
02-20-2012, 08:53 PM
I thought I could just get a new part, like on the blowers, to fix this, but does anyone have any remidies for a loose rivet in the choke lever, there is no nut to tighten, it's a rivet, any ideas?

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-21-2012, 12:37 AM
There was a service bulletin in 1997 about these loose rivets on the TK carbs. It is in your best interest to order in the replacement choke plate (20011-81240), choke lever (20024-81940), choke shaft (20000-81220), spring washer (20000-81250), and nut (20000-81260). The nut needs to be staked when the whole assembly is put together and friction set. Not staking the nut can lead to it and/or the washer vibrating off and being injested into the engine. We have done several of these modifications to our customers engines and all of my own personal engines that have had loose rivets.

Check with your local dealer for Parts Revision / Service Bulletin # PR-117.1. It contains all the information I just provided and some simple directions in the completion of the modification.

thethirstymoose
02-21-2012, 01:12 AM
Thats exactly what I wanted to do, thats what I did with my blower, Just changed out the choke plate, this looks like it's all one piece though, I will look into changing the choke plate out if I can otherwise I might rig up a small bungy cord

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-21-2012, 04:03 PM
Thats exactly what I wanted to do, thats what I did with my blower, Just changed out the choke plate, this looks like it's all one piece though, I will look into changing the choke plate out if I can otherwise I might rig up a small bungy cord

You have to grind off the rivet with dremel or air tool. That will allow the shaft, plate, lever to all come apart from the carb. Put together the parts I listed, and your done!!

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-21-2012, 04:07 PM
$10-$12 for all the parts for a proper fix seems a whole lot better than a bungee remedy that might cause more headache than the savings is worth.

thethirstymoose
02-21-2012, 04:58 PM
I agree with you, I would love to get the choke fixed....But I think this carb is one piece, I can't take it apart.on one of my blowers the choke plate came off, I could put new one on and it was complete, this carb is one molded piece, maybe I can drill out the rivet.and put the screw and nut in?

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-21-2012, 07:59 PM
You have the right idea of drilling out the rivet. That will let you take the old shaft, lever, and choke plate out of the carb. With the old shaft removed, the new shaft and parts go in.

If you post your email address, I can send you the Service Bulletin on how to do a proper repair using the new parts. As always, if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, take it to your local Shindaiwa dealer. They will be able to do this repair for you.

thethirstymoose
02-21-2012, 08:47 PM
Ok my email address is Thethirstymoose@aol.com....I really think I could do this, I pretty much maintain all on my trimmers and blowers, I tear them to bare metal basically and replace needed parts, quick question..the main shaft that goes into the clutch drum, should that have some grease around the splines? Everyone I have taken out doesn't have grease, but I don't think a little grease would hurt any, I know the gearcase needs a bunch of grease, but what about the clutch drum?

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-21-2012, 10:20 PM
Any grease is good for the splines on both ends of the mainshaft and the bushings in the tube the shaft goes thru. Look down the length of the mainshaft, you will see some areas that are shinier than the rest of the shaft. Put a little grease on those areas so it lubricates the bushings the shaft rides on. Without grease, there is metal to metal contact which will make the splines wear out very quickly. Grease the mainshaft, splines, and gearcase at least once a year.

Testing has shown that commercial use of brand new trimmers that owners didn't grease the mainshaft usually had the clutch drum, mainshaft, or the input shaft of the gearcase would wear out in about 1-2 years. Greasing the shaft and gearcase can make them last 10+ years if taken care of correctly.

thethirstymoose
02-23-2012, 03:53 PM
Ok so the main shaft finally arrived, I was getting ready to put the trimmer back together. I noticed that on one end of the shaft it has a taper to it..........I'm wondering if the tapered end goes to the engine drum, or does it go to the trimmer head?, I'm guseeing it goes towards the engine side, into the clutch drum:walking:

Shindaiwa / Echo Dealer
02-23-2012, 06:52 PM
The tapered end goes to the clutch.

thethirstymoose
02-23-2012, 06:52 PM
God this trimmer is giving me fits.......I am converting a brushcutter into a regular trimmer....So I got a new gearcase, new throttle cable, new everything, I any ideas still need a throttle, my one I had doesn't fit, so thats no biggie.here's the deal.Last night I put the throttle cable in, and ran the power head alone by itself, ran great I pulled the throttle some to rev it up , ran perfect......today the mainshat arrives, I put it in, and test it to make sure the head spins correctly, everything is looking good........Now it won't start? What happened? So I take the muffler off thinking it's clogged with carbon, and it runs good, loud but good,,,,,,,so I clean the muffler up, which wasn't very dirty to begin with, I heated it up with a torch and cleaned the carbon deposits out, which wasn't much to begin with, ran water through the muffler, just to wast out any scraped deposits, so they don't make it back into the cylinder, dried it out re-installed, still won't start.......maybe I need to re-check the throttle cable? Any ideas

thethirstymoose
02-23-2012, 07:19 PM
Shindaiwa/echo dealer what do you want to sell your eb802 for?
?

thethirstymoose
09-17-2012, 02:32 PM
What do you mean the housing is not like a 270?

Can you call me when you get a minute, Jim, 303 523-5723
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