PDA

View Full Version : Aeration: Quick Question?


MOturkey
02-27-2012, 10:03 AM
I'm asking this for my own personal information. I've never aerated my lawn, and it is starting to get some pretty bare areas, so I was thinking of aerating and overseeding with fescue, which is what most of the lawn is now composed of. Anyway, I realize this is normally done in the fall, but we were extremely dry last year, and I read on here that it is better to aerate when there is some moisture, so I never did it.

My question is, would there be any benefit from doing so now, or should I just wait until this fall? Thanks.

kennc38
02-27-2012, 10:25 AM
I'm asking this for my own personal information. I've never aerated my lawn, and it is starting to get some pretty bare areas, so I was thinking of aerating and overseeding with fescue, which is what most of the lawn is now composed of. Anyway, I realize this is normally done in the fall, but we were extremely dry last year, and I read on here that it is better to aerate when there is some moisture, so I never did it.

My question is, would there be any benefit from doing so now, or should I just wait until this fall? Thanks.

You'll have much better results if you wait until the fall. If you seed now the new grass will not have much time to grow strong roots before the heat of the summer gets here.

turfcobob
02-27-2012, 12:19 PM
I'm asking this for my own personal information. I've never aerated my lawn, and it is starting to get some pretty bare areas, so I was thinking of aerating and overseeding with fescue, which is what most of the lawn is now composed of. Anyway, I realize this is normally done in the fall, but we were extremely dry last year, and I read on here that it is better to aerate when there is some moisture, so I never did it.

My question is, would there be any benefit from doing so now, or should I just wait until this fall? Thanks.

I used to do just that when I lived in Nebraska. It works but like Kennec said it is best done in the fall. Aerate the lawn several times to get the most holes per sq ft. Broadcast the seed wait for the cores to dry then drag the lawn. This moves the seed around and helps break up the cores for better seed germination. Seeds in the holes will have a nice protected enviroment to start in also the core dirt will cover seeds dragged to the low spots. The seeds will wait for the ground temp to get up to 50 before they germinate so be patient with spring weed protection. Let the new plants get up to several inches before treatment.

Smallaxe
02-27-2012, 11:25 PM
Aeration is not your best seed bed... period...

Unless you have compaction issues or something, it is best to run a 'garden weasel' or 'seed stitcher' over your bare spots and drop some seed... run it over with the weasel or the stictcher again and get it to grow b4 the heat sets in...
Forget aerators, when seeding is your objective... :)

cpllawncare
02-28-2012, 01:53 AM
Aeration is not your best seed bed... period...

Unless you have compaction issues or something, it is best to run a 'garden weasel' or 'seed stitcher' over your bare spots and drop some seed... run it over with the weasel or the stictcher again and get it to grow b4 the heat sets in...
Forget aerators, when seeding is your objective... :)

do you mean seed slicer? is that the same as a revitiallizer?

grassman177
02-28-2012, 08:46 AM
he means the stitcher, a sponsor on here at least at one time. it is the same kinda of tool as the garden weasel and meant for small spot seeding.

Smallaxe
02-28-2012, 10:37 AM
do you mean seed slicer? is that the same as a revitiallizer?

Grassman is correct... I wouldn't run a revitalizer over the entire lawn, just to spiff-up a few bare spots... I use a garden weasel, but the 'stitcher' was actually designed for the job... quick, easy and it shouldn't be a problem in mowing... :)

kennc38
02-28-2012, 04:39 PM
Aeration is not your best seed bed... period...

Unless you have compaction issues or something, it is best to run a 'garden weasel' or 'seed stitcher' over your bare spots and drop some seed... run it over with the weasel or the stictcher again and get it to grow b4 the heat sets in...
Forget aerators, when seeding is your objective... :)

Smallaxe, based on your previous posts on this topic, I know you're not a fan of aerating/seeding as an effective means to overseed a lawn. However, here in NC it's a very effective AND efficient way to overseed a lawn. The soil in my area has a high clay content so aerating at least once a year is almost mandatory and twice a year is highly recommended, even for areas that aren't exposed to high traffic.

I have been using this method for many years (as well as every other person and professional lawncare company that I know) and have had great success doing it, so to suggest "forget aerating, when seeding is your objective" is very misleading and not entirely accurate in my opinion. If you the use the method that Turfco Bob has suggested, then you will get excellent results this way. If fact, this is the same method recommended by the NC State Ag. Dept. (see pg. 21 of "Prepare a good seedbed" in the following pdf link: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf).

Also, if you will note in the OP's first post, he states that he has never aerated his yard. So my question is, why would he not core aerate, making double or even triple passes in the bare areas and then put the seed down and then drag the yard breaking up the cores as Turfco Bob has suggested? It's been my experience that you will get the same tearing and ripping action from a rolling tine aerator with several passes in the same area as you would with the "garden weasel" you've suggested. Besides, if he has a large yard with a lot of bare areas I wonder how long it would take to use the manual garden weasel as opposed to making several passes with the aerator.

I agree that a machine such as a turf revitalizer would be more effective with a yard that has more bare areas than grass, but with an established lawn with a few bare areas, core aerating/seeding has been a very effective method for me as well as others in my area as I mentioned earlier.

jfoxtrot9
02-28-2012, 07:41 PM
Smallaxe, based on your previous posts on this topic, I know you're not a fan of aerating/seeding as an effective means to overseed a lawn. However, here in NC it's a very effective AND efficient way to overseed a lawn. The soil in my area has a high clay content so aerating at least once a year is almost mandatory and twice a year is highly recommended, even for areas that aren't exposed to high traffic.

I have been using this method for many years (as well as every other person and professional lawncare company that I know) and have had great success doing it, so to suggest "forget aerating, when seeding is your objective" is very misleading and not entirely accurate in my opinion. If you the use the method that Turfco Bob has suggested, then you will get excellent results this way. If fact, this is the same method recommended by the NC State Ag. Dept. (see pg. 21 of "Prepare a good seedbed" in the following pdf link: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf).

Also, if you will note in the OP's first post, he states that he has never aerated his yard. So my question is, why would he not core aerate, making double or even triple passes in the bare areas and then put the seed down and then drag the yard breaking up the cores as Turfco Bob has suggested? It's been my experience that you will get the same tearing and ripping action from a rolling tine aerator with several passes in the same area as you would with the "garden weasel" you've suggested. Besides, if he has a large yard with a lot of bare areas I wonder how long it would take to use the manual garden weasel as opposed to making several passes with the aerator.

I agree that a machine such as a turf revitalizer would be more effective with a yard that has more bare areas than grass, but with an established lawn with a few bare areas, core aerating/seeding has been a very effective method for me as well as others in my area as I mentioned earlier.

Many good results using this method. To add, with a hydro aerator (since one has instant reverse now by merely squeezing), even over a medium to larger size area, I now as standard practice go back and forth, several times over, with the aerator and produce a very nice seed bed. Big time and labor saver.

Smallaxe
02-28-2012, 07:46 PM
Smallaxe, based on your previous posts on this topic, I know you're not a fan of aerating/seeding as an effective means to overseed a lawn. However, here in NC it's a very effective AND efficient way to overseed a lawn. The soil in my area has a high clay content so aerating at least once a year is almost mandatory and twice a year is highly recommended, even for areas that aren't exposed to high traffic.

I have been using this method for many years (as well as every other person and professional lawncare company that I know) and have had great success doing it, so to suggest "forget aerating, when seeding is your objective" is very misleading and not entirely accurate in my opinion. If you the use the method that Turfco Bob has suggested, then you will get excellent results this way. If fact, this is the same method recommended by the NC State Ag. Dept. (see pg. 21 of "Prepare a good seedbed" in the following pdf link: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf).

Also, if you will note in the OP's first post, he states that he has never aerated his yard. So my question is, why would he not core aerate, making double or even triple passes in the bare areas and then put the seed down and then drag the yard breaking up the cores as Turfco Bob has suggested? It's been my experience that you will get the same tearing and ripping action from a rolling tine aerator with several passes in the same area as you would with the "garden weasel" you've suggested. Besides, if he has a large yard with a lot of bare areas I wonder how long it would take to use the manual garden weasel as opposed to making several passes with the aerator.

I agree that a machine such as a turf revitalizer would be more effective with a yard that has more bare areas than grass, but with an established lawn with a few bare areas, core aerating/seeding has been a very effective method for me as well as others in my area as I mentioned earlier.

Ohhh, But I am a fan of aerating for compacted clay soils... as well as heavily thatched hydrophobic soils... :)

However, Getting out an aerator for a few bare spots in the lawn, is like using the a backhoe for edging around a clump of peonies, or reartine tiller to work up a foundation planting, in between the stones and concrete pots...

You are in NC with the warm-season grasses and you could very well be right about what your strategy is... Up here, several passes with an aerator will kill more grass roots than your seed will ever produce, especially if it germinates late, like last year, and everything germinates at the same time as the CG does... What a mess that would be...

Smallaxe
02-28-2012, 08:09 PM
Many good results using this method. To add, with a hydro aerator (since one has instant reverse now by merely squeezing), even over a medium to larger size area, I now as standard practice go back and forth, several times over, with the aerator and produce a very nice seed bed. Big time and labor saver.

I read through the article from NC State and also found this comment in the overseeding section...

"A slit seeder, consisting of a vertical grooving seeder and seed box, can be used to drill seed to ensure good seed-to-soil contact with minimum disruption."

The point is, unless there is another reason to go through the trouble of aerating, there are simpler and more reliable methods of doing so w/out the mess... or as they put it, "minimal disruption"... :)

kennc38
02-28-2012, 08:24 PM
However, Getting out an aerator for a few bare spots in the lawn, is like using the a backhoe for edging around a clump of peonies, or reartine tiller to work up a foundation planting, in between the stones and concrete pots...

You are in NC with the warm-season grasses and you could very well be right about what your strategy is... Up here, several passes with an aerator will kill more grass roots than your seed will ever produce, especially if it germinates late, like last year, and everything germinates at the same time as the CG does... What a mess that would be...

How do you know he's referring to just a few small areas? If it were a large lawn with a lot of bare spots, then yes it would prefer to use the aerator, not the "garden weasel". If it's just one or two small patches, then no, I would not use an aerator. But as I mentioned earlier, the OP stated the lawn has never been aerated, so in THIS case, I would aerate the entire lawn and then seed.

You assume that I'm talking about warm season grasses because I'm in NC. However, I have never aerated a lawn with warm season grasses...only cool season grasses and these are the results I've experienced. The lawns I have aerated are well established with minimal bare areas and I have never experienced the aerator kill grass roots as you have indicated.

kennc38
02-28-2012, 08:34 PM
I read through the article from NC State and also found this comment in the overseeding section...

"A slit seeder, consisting of a vertical grooving seeder and seed box, can be used to drill seed to ensure good seed-to-soil contact with minimum disruption."

The point is, unless there is another reason to go through the trouble of aerating, there are simpler and more reliable methods of doing so w/out the mess... or as they put it, "minimal disruption"... :)

You forgot to quote the next part of that section: "Dry, compacted soils, obstructions such as rocks and trees, and excessive slopes may limit the usefulness of a slit seeder." As I mentioned earlier, the clay soil here compacts very easily and annual fall core aerification is highly recommended, so one is already "going through the trouble of aerating" anyway, so seeding following the aerating is very simple and effective as I mentioned earlier. I've never seen anyone run a slit seeder in the fall after the lawn has already been aerated unless the yard is being completely renovated. We also have a lot of excessive slopes which make running a slit seeder more trouble than running an aerator.

cgaengineer
02-28-2012, 08:36 PM
You'll have much better results if you wait until the fall. If you seed now the new grass will not have much time to grow strong roots before the heat of the summer gets here.

And you will fight crabgrass.
Posted via Mobile Device

cgaengineer
02-28-2012, 08:38 PM
Aeration is not your best seed bed... period...

Unless you have compaction issues or something, it is best to run a 'garden weasel' or 'seed stitcher' over your bare spots and drop some seed... run it over with the weasel or the stictcher again and get it to grow b4 the heat sets in...
Forget aerators, when seeding is your objective... :)

Works pretty dang well as a seed bed in clay soils.
Posted via Mobile Device

Smallaxe
02-29-2012, 08:15 AM
... and I have never experienced the aerator kill grass roots as you have indicated.

I'm not interested in an arguement, but prefer thoughtful, well reasoned discussion... :)

One might use his mind's eye to "see" what the aerator is going to the turf... one might first visualize a single pass w/3" deep holes in the grass and chunks of sod laying about the yard...

putting grass seed between the holes is no differest that throwing it on the open lawn... and throwing it in the holes is less than optimum planting depth...

Will it help to 'drag' over the sod clumps after a single pass?

And while we are standing here, looking at the lawn with all these sod chunks ripped out and scattered about, ask yourself: "Will these chunk of sod die? Will there roots die?"

kennc38
02-29-2012, 08:54 AM
I'm not interested in an arguement, but prefer thoughtful, well reasoned discussion... :)

One might use his mind's eye to "see" what the aerator is going to the turf... one might first visualize a single pass w/3" deep holes in the grass and chunks of sod laying about the yard...

putting grass seed between the holes is no differest that throwing it on the open lawn... and throwing it in the holes is less than optimum planting depth...

Will it help to 'drag' over the sod clumps after a single pass?

And while we are standing here, looking at the lawn with all these sod chunks ripped out and scattered about, ask yourself: "Will these chunk of sod die? Will there roots die?"

I'm not sure why you want to get into a "well reasoned discussion" when I'm explaining the results I've experienced (not what my "mind's eye" causes me to see...:hammerhead:) and knowing that there are plenty of experts and other professionals who agree with and use this same method.

I'm not going to hijack the OP's thread any longer, so if you want to get into a well reasoned, philisophical discussion or want to stand and look at your lawn after it's been aerated and ask yourself whether or not the sod chunks will die, then please feel free.

teye69
03-16-2012, 02:52 PM
I have a Ryan Lawnaire V and is like new bought it used for $1750.00 last fall.
It does not leave plugs. The unit makes nice clean holes about 3 inches deep but no
plugs. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I might do to correct this issue? Thanks in advance

GrassStitcher
03-26-2012, 04:25 PM
he means the stitcher, a sponsor on here at least at one time. it is the same kinda of tool as the garden weasel and meant for small spot seeding.

Hey Grassman

Still here, been busy working on new products (attachments for GS handle).

cpllawncare
03-27-2012, 01:22 AM
Hey Grassman

Still here, been busy working on new products (attachments for GS handle).

I bought a garden weasel last year, and it worked great but I was trying to think of a way to make a bigger version for larger area's, guess I just found my bigger version, LOL!

bigslick7878
03-27-2012, 01:33 AM
Smallaxe, based on your previous posts on this topic, I know you're not a fan of aerating/seeding as an effective means to overseed a lawn. However, here in NC it's a very effective AND efficient way to overseed a lawn. The soil in my area has a high clay content so aerating at least once a year is almost mandatory and twice a year is highly recommended, even for areas that aren't exposed to high traffic.

I have been using this method for many years (as well as every other person and professional lawncare company that I know) and have had great success doing it, so to suggest "forget aerating, when seeding is your objective" is very misleading and not entirely accurate in my opinion. If you the use the method that Turfco Bob has suggested, then you will get excellent results this way. If fact, this is the same method recommended by the NC State Ag. Dept. (see pg. 21 of "Prepare a good seedbed" in the following pdf link: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf).

Also, if you will note in the OP's first post, he states that he has never aerated his yard. So my question is, why would he not core aerate, making double or even triple passes in the bare areas and then put the seed down and then drag the yard breaking up the cores as Turfco Bob has suggested? It's been my experience that you will get the same tearing and ripping action from a rolling tine aerator with several passes in the same area as you would with the "garden weasel" you've suggested. Besides, if he has a large yard with a lot of bare areas I wonder how long it would take to use the manual garden weasel as opposed to making several passes with the aerator.

I agree that a machine such as a turf revitalizer would be more effective with a yard that has more bare areas than grass, but with an established lawn with a few bare areas, core aerating/seeding has been a very effective method for me as well as others in my area as I mentioned earlier.

He will never get it. Don't waste your time.

kennc38
04-03-2012, 05:27 PM
He will never get it. Don't waste your time.

Yeah, I'm beginning to see that with my "mind's eye". lol

Smallaxe
04-03-2012, 10:03 PM
Yeah, I'm beginning to see that with my "mind's eye". lol

:laugh: Post some PIX... :laugh:

TriageLawn
04-06-2012, 02:18 PM
You'll have much better results if you wait until the fall. If you seed now the new grass will not have much time to grow strong roots before the heat of the summer gets here.


Thats interesting. So when is the best time seed? I was always told when the temp is a steady 65 or above. I am in GA and the temp has been steady like that for about 2 strong weeks. Are you suggesting that if I seed now, my see will not be lost due to the summer heat?

kennc38
04-06-2012, 08:14 PM
Thats interesting. So when is the best time seed? I was always told when the temp is a steady 65 or above. I am in GA and the temp has been steady like that for about 2 strong weeks. Are you suggesting that if I seed now, my see will not be lost due to the summer heat?

I was referring to seeding tall fescue. So yes, if you seed tall fescue in the spring it doesn't stand a good chance of making it through the summer.