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Exact Rototilling
03-05-2012, 11:48 PM
Best method for cutting and trimming down Oregon ® mower blades? 16.5” down to 15.125”

I have tracked down some blades I believe that will be outstanding Hi Lifts on my BOP Quick 44 but the blade is 16.5” and needs to be cut down.

I have a dewalt angle grinder and cut off disc but I have been told a metal band saw would work best to not damage the temper heat treatment as much. I don’t have access to a metal band saw so I’d have to find a shop that would be willing to do this. The blade edges will be finished and profiled an a grinder and or on my new Magna Matic sharpener if I can get it to do a 90 degree edge. Blade will be balanced on a Magna balancer. :)

ecurbthims
03-06-2012, 12:47 AM
a sawzall would give the same cut as a bandsaw ,I have had very good luck with the diablo carbide blades at homo depot for cutting metal.You could dress the ends with a file if your worried about too much heat .

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 12:59 AM
a sawzall would give the same cut as a bandsaw ,I have had very good luck with the diablo carbide blades at homo depot for cutting metal.You could dress the ends with a file if your worried about too much heat .

Yes good tip...still more heat than a band saw since the.same section of blade can never cool off like a band saw but I think it would be manageable.
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ngibson6
03-06-2012, 01:26 AM
Find a machine shop that has a cold saw. It won't affect the temper and will have a perfect 90 degree angle.

fatboynormmie
03-06-2012, 03:38 AM
Hey ER First verify length of blades are correct .Generally blades are measured on a diagonal not end to end .If the numbers are as stated on the 16.5" blade, measure back off the outer edge 11/16 on each side and mark the blade.Verify the measurement between marks is 15.125 or 15 1/8.Find a local machine shop or metal supplier and go talk to the guys that run the equipment in the back and NOT the guys in the office.A bandsaw or coldsaw with a vise are the best choices in my opinion as stated above.If the blades are marked they can rip through them in a matter of minutes.Tell the guy lunch is on you today and slip him $10 or go in the morning with a dozen donuts .Both have worked for me in the past.Good luck :waving:

JCLawn and more
03-06-2012, 06:14 AM
Hey ER First verify length of blades are correct .Generally blades are measured on a diagonal not end to end .If the numbers are as stated on the 16.5" blade, measure back off the outer edge 11/16 on each side and mark the blade.Verify the measurement between marks is 15.125 or 15 1/8.Find a local machine shop or metal supplier and go talk to the guys that run the equipment in the back and NOT the guys in the office.A bandsaw or coldsaw with a vise are the best choices in my opinion as stated above.If the blades are marked they can rip through them in a matter of minutes.Tell the guy lunch is on you today and slip him $10 or go in the morning with a dozen donuts .Both have worked for me in the past.Good luck :waving:

this business is always about learning who to talk to when haha

djagusch
03-06-2012, 10:20 AM
Best method for cutting and trimming down Oregon ® mower blades? 16.5” down to 15.125”

I have tracked down some blades I believe that will be outstanding Hi Lifts on my BOP Quick 44 but the blade is 16.5” and needs to be cut down.

I have a dewalt angle grinder and cut off disc but I have been told a metal band saw would work best to not damage the temper heat treatment as much. I don’t have access to a metal band saw so I’d have to find a shop that would be willing to do this. The blade edges will be finished and profiled an a grinder and or on my new Magna Matic sharpener if I can get it to do a 90 degree edge. Blade will be balanced on a Magna balancer. :)

You really go a long ways to make a mower cut correctly. If you figure the time spent buying a toro/scag/exmark would be way cheaper.

For the blades I would say the band saw is the best bet. Sawzall won't be precise enough to get them balanced/straight. I would look at the liabilty of cutting down blades also.

Lastly most complain about the cost of OEM blades being $18 a blade. Buying oregon blades (guessing $12/blade), cutting them down, and your time driving and balancing is going to make them the most expensive blade on the market.

dhardin53
03-06-2012, 01:41 PM
I have cut down several Gator blades over the years. The only safe way to cut it is with a chop saw. Take your time, it is very hard steel.

Nothing else will cut it straight or without destroying the blade.

241931

If you ever need to enlarge or add holes to a Gator you will need a torch to get the steel cherry red only where the hole is to be drilled. After it cools it is possible to get a good carbide bit turning real slow through it, most times.

All this work is worth the effort, this steel is so hard you will be amazed how much longer the blade will hold a edge.

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 02:06 PM
You really go a long ways to make a mower cut correctly. If you figure the time spent buying a toro/scag/exmark would be way cheaper.

For the blades I would say the band saw is the best bet. Sawzall won't be precise enough to get them balanced/straight. I would look at the liabilty of cutting down blades also.

Lastly most complain about the cost of OEM blades being $18 a blade. Buying oregon blades (guessing $12/blade), cutting them down, and your time driving and balancing is going to make them the most expensive blade on the market.

Point well taken on the Toro, Exmark & SCAG. If only those manufactures would put their mowers on a diet [turf rutting]and down size them so they don’t take up as much space on a trailer....? I’d absolutely love a Wright stander 32 or 36 but forget the rutting. Same for a Gravely Prostance 34. Too Heavy. Toro Grandstand 36 or 40” again heavy and I hear the the 40 clogs for some users and they are light in the front as is the Grandstand 36. Ferris makes a single hydro 32 that is light weight but no dealers and I’m stepping back wards to a single hydro again. Every other LCO here runs Walkers. The Walker 36 deck needs the C model tractor with narrow tires and that ruts. The bigger tractors with higher flotation tires are much better but the deck is 42”+ and keeps the mower out of the back yards for the most part. I mow largely properties with 40” gates to the back. Frankly the Q44 dually is iffy logistically for me sine it is a full 48” wide. Based on what I have seen the shallower deck BOP mowers just leave a nicer finished cut even when mulching. Maybe it’s because I keep sharp blades....? There are already great blades available for the Q32 Plug & Play.

djagusch
03-06-2012, 05:08 PM
Can't go by wieght alone. Look at the psi of the tire footprint and compare.
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GritCity_Nick
03-06-2012, 06:23 PM
What's the part # on the Oregon Blades you are cutting down? 91-621?

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 06:39 PM
What's the part # on the Oregon Blades you are cutting down? 91-621?
Yes that would be it. Also the fusion version 491-621 but there is zero point in trying to cut those.

If anyone already.has this.blade.on hand please post pics and measurements of how far apart notches are and profile and angle of sail. I.belive this blade will absolutely rock on the Q44.

Tme will.tell.
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GritCity_Nick
03-06-2012, 07:02 PM
The angle, as you can hopefully see, is dramatic, but it's all we sell in Western Washington. Oregon 91-621 for 48" and Oregon 91-623 for 36".

The distance from the two notches is 7.5".


241942

241943

brucec
03-06-2012, 07:33 PM
I'm interested in how this works out. Seems like a lot of work though. I have been running exmark hi lifts on my quick for a couple of years now with a huge improvement over stock. I talked to tommy and Gary several times about the blades I was running. I hope we hear some news soon about what is going on with them. I was a big supporter of BOP, VERY dissapointed with them not keeping us informed on what is going on.

sealcutter
03-06-2012, 09:22 PM
Pardon me for asking but what is a BOP? And before I get stuck with knives I have been mowing commercially for over 15 years. Just never heard of BOP. I would call the blade manufacture get the engineering department and tell them what you plan on doing.

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 09:43 PM
Pardon me for asking but what is a BOP? And before I get stuck with knives I have been mowing commercially for over 15 years. Just never heard of BOP. I would call the blade manufacture get the engineering department and tell them what you plan on doing.

http://www.betteroutdoorproducts.com/

I have already told Dennis at Oregon about it...:)

I much rather have Oregon cut them down instead.

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 09:48 PM
The angle, as you can hopefully see, is dramatic, but it's all we sell in Western Washington. Oregon 91-621 for 48" and Oregon 91-623 for 36".

The distance from the two notches is 7.5".



241942

241943

:clapping:

Is that from the inside edge or outside edge of the notch....?

Thanks for the pics.

Will have to hunt down the info on the 91-623 blade.

mallio
03-06-2012, 10:40 PM
I have customers bring me blades that the ends are damaged and want me to cut it down to the next size they use. I use a chop saw for this. I guess it is better than throwing a blade away. I have never tried to change the center hole on the blade. Some have bought different decks and have a inventory of blades that are too long for the new unit so we have reworked them.

Exact Rototilling
03-06-2012, 11:29 PM
The angle, as you can hopefully see, is dramatic, but it's all we sell in Western Washington. Oregon 91-621 for 48" and Oregon 91-623 for 36".

The distance from the two notches is 7.5".



Well the 91-369 blades single nothch Exmark style have less lift than the one above measures 7-7/8" to the inside edge of the notch.

on the 91-313 [Q32] profile clone on the 91-369 blade the distance is 8-7/8" This blade will probably be over kill on the the 32" deck. But I will try it anyhow. Might just keep up with the yBravo 25 when bagging soaking wet grass.

I have not mentioned this before but on the highest lift 99-127 blades I have with a CH code one blade is at 60 degrees and it actually moves so much air it put an air presure crease down on the grass right at the left side of the deck.

FWIW the 91-369 for the Q44 & 91-313 Q32 have roughly a 40 degree angle on the sail.

tyler_mott85
03-07-2012, 05:01 PM
I guess perhaps to me the thought of using anything less than a digital end mill to remove "length" from blades is risky. I don't know what the tolerance for how centered the center hole any given mower blade is but I could think that being off as little as a 1/16 of an inch could cause undesirable blade balancing issues. I realize that you can balance blades that are out of balance but I think having the exact same length on both cutting edges would be ideal. Where as a digital three axis end mill could give you exact cuts once you get it set up.

What are your plans for making sure the cut is the same on both cutting edges and among all the blades you plan on "adjusting" so to speak?

mallio
03-07-2012, 06:32 PM
We have a jig set up to insure that we are cutting the same on each end. Yes the blades have to be measured and see what the specs are. All blades have to be balanced after cutting.

Exact Rototilling
03-10-2012, 12:18 PM
I'm interested in how this works out. Seems like a lot of work though. I have been running exmark hi lifts on my quick for a couple of years now with a huge improvement over stock. I talked to tommy and Gary several times about the blades I was running. I hope we hear some news soon about what is going on with them. I was a big supporter of BOP, VERY dissapointed with them not keeping us informed on what is going on.

I hear you. I often wonder if BOP would have been in much better financial shape TODAY if the higher lift blade issue had been addressed more aggressively over the years by BOP.....? The biggest gripe overall is the mowers don’t cut well unless conditions are dry and the decks do in fact clog up with wet damp spring growth. These complaints have floated around for years. Lots of potential buyers of these mowers have no doubt seen these posts.....I wonder how many have passed on buying these mowers after seeing the deck clog posts.

If ALL I had to run on my BOP mowers was the ORIGINAL “standard lower lift blades on all 3 decks sizes” I would NOT WANT TO OWN ANY BOP MOWER. Many BOP owners knowingly or unknowingly have stuck it out using the standard blades thinking the problem is the deck. Other BOP posters have refused to belive higher lift blades help. :hammerhead: They refuse to belive the reports that "LIFT MATTERS".

They like the cut in drier conditions but admit to delaying the mowing day to let grass dry out. If you’re cutting grass for a living and have any real account load you need to start in the morning and not at noon or 11 am.

Not everyone is going to do what I have done and take a stick to the bushes trying to find better blades. I sat down with an OREGON ® catalog and searched for something better.

Fact is my Q32 cuts and bags great in damp grass with the 99-127 blades with the sail angle of 50 to 60 degrees. I hope OREGON can produce consistant baldes with the 99-127 number on them. Some versions of the 99-127 are in fact average lift and NOT high lift. With the BEST 99-127's you can even bag grass in the rain up to a point. The best blades for the Q32 have already been found. The blades that I’m going to cut down for the Q44 will also be cut down for the Q32. It may in fact be too much lift...? Time will tell.

Snapper Jack
03-10-2012, 12:40 PM
I hear you. I often wonder if BOP would have been in much better financial shape TODAY if the higher lift blade issue had been addressed more aggressively over the years by BOP.....? The biggest gripe overall is the mowers don’t cut well unless conditions are dry and the decks do in fact clog up with wet damp spring growth. These complaints have floated around for years. Lots of potential buyers of these mowers have no doubt seen these posts.....I wonder how many have passed on buying these mowers after seeing the deck clog posts.

If ALL I had to run on my BOP mowers was the ORIGINAL “standard lower lift blades on all 3 decks sizes” I would NOT WANT TO OWN ANY BOP MOWER. Many BOP owners knowingly or unknowingly have stuck it out using the standard blades thinking the problem is the deck. Other BOP posters have refused to belive higher lift blades help. :hammerhead: They refuse to belive the reports that "LIFT MATTERS".

They like the cut in drier conditions but admit to delaying the mowing day to let grass dry out. If you’re cutting grass for a living and have any real account load you need to start in the morning and not at noon or 11 am.

Not everyone is going to do what I have done and take a stick to the bushes trying to find better blades. I sat down with an OREGON ® catalog and searched for something better.

Fact is my Q32 cuts and bags great in damp grass with the 99-127 blades with the sail angle of 50 to 60 degrees. I hope OREGON can produce consistant baldes with the 99-127 number on them. Some versions of the 99-127 are in fact average lift and NOT high lift. With the BEST 99-127's you can even bag grass in the rain up to a point. The best blades for the Q32 have already been found. The blades that I’m going to cut down for the Q44 will also be cut down for the Q32. It may in fact be too much lift...? Time will tell.
After doing some research on The BOP mowers,I passed and decided to buy a real commercial mower(IMO). Did BOPs finally go out of business? Bound to happen with all the clogging negative responses from owners.

Exact Rototilling
03-10-2012, 02:37 PM
After doing some research on The BOP mowers,I passed and decided to buy a real commercial mower(IMO). Did BOPs finally go out of business? Bound to happen with all the clogging negative responses from owners.

God only knows how this will wash out with the purchase or acquisition.....:confused:

It's really a shame. :cry:

The mowers can cut well in wet damp grass...WITH THE CORRECT BLADES. The mowers have a sweet spot unmatched by other manufacturers in the price point, light weight [no rutting] and compact in size for their cutting width.
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Exact Rototilling
05-05-2012, 03:24 PM
**update**
Ended up using a dewalt angle grinder with cut off blade. Tried a metal cutting blade but Oregon blades are brutally hard.

Just cut some and.then kept dunking in water especially on cutting edge.
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Richard Martin
05-05-2012, 04:59 PM
I hear you. I often wonder if BOP would have been in much better financial shape TODAY if the higher lift blade issue had been addressed more aggressively over the years by BOP.....?

The cut quality issues weren't even discussed before 2 years ago. Up until the news was broken that Quicks weren't perfect it had been a huge no-no to even entertain the thought that there might be an issue with them.

BOP cash issues began long before then. The information is readily available on the Internet. I'm surprised that the partners that he bought on waited this long to attempt to dissolve this company.

The same exact thing happened to another small start up manufacturer. Dr Gas exhaust systems. That company made a huge name for themselves in NASCAR. Do you remember that different sound that Sterling Marlin's car had at the 1995 Daytona 500. That was a Dr Gas X pipe. Before long every team was running Dr Gas exhaust and they were retailing exhaust systems and parts. In 2008 they brought on venture capitalist investors and the company is completely gone today.

Johnagain
05-06-2012, 10:40 AM
Exact Why didn't you look for other blades in the size you need instead of cutting others off.

country clipper 15 in blades
cub cadet 15 1/8
exmark 15 1/4
ferris 15 in
grasshopper 15
hustler 15 21/32
toro 15 1/2
woods 15

All those blades are for www.Expressmowerparts.com catalog.

larryinalabama
05-06-2012, 11:43 AM
Why throw away a good mower?

Exact Rototilling
05-06-2012, 12:10 PM
Funny ....these post have made my Sunday morning :laugh:

#1. It's vastly easier and quicker to cut blades vs drill out spindle holes. Re: Toro TimeMaster 30 blade mod project. Yes I do this with every mower...just can't help myself :)

#2. Quick 44 dually is clearly the lightest in class dual hydro mower around at just barely over 400 pounds. Cut is excellent IMO with 91-369 Exmark style blades while side discharging or even mulching. Even these blades need to shortened slightly. On my Q44 blades have to be trimed to 15.125". Yes even the 91-369 blade at 15.25" are too long.

#3. Q32 already has excellent blades available. My favorite mower in the spring for a long list of reasons. I now own 2 of them. :hammerhead: Bit lighter than 36 and 44 dually. Only BOP mower I bag grass with. Only BOP mower I use on overgrown lawns...yeah blade issue. Only BOP mower I can now mow with in a complete downpour...thanks to my freshly modified 91-621's. Front tunnel does load up but rest of deck is kept clear due to shear absolute volume of jet blast airflow. :d. Almost forgot dually controls best in class in handling and ease of use and mower is sub 400#.


More later family time....:waving:
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