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Moose's Mowing
04-16-2012, 06:07 PM
Anyone else ever have to replace these things. A god buddy of mine works at a custom exhaust fab shop and they don't even mess with these. they send them out to another shop. He said all pickups do it frequently (Chevy, Ford and Dodge) and says the Fords are the worst to fix. Mine was on an 04 Chevy 2500 6.0 liter. I was lucky tho, I guess usually they break off flush with the head and they take a mig welder to the bolt and build up the area with enough metal till they can weld a nut on. Out of the 12 bolts that hold the manifold on, 8 of mine were busted but none broke flush with the heads. it's a B&$%^ getting them out though. I used a ton of PB Blaster and Thrust oil and then a big pair of vise grips. There was enough bolt left to where I could slowly work them all back and forth to get them out. I could only get about 1/8 of a turn each time so it took me a tad over 4 hours yesterday to get them extracted, then another hour-ish today to put new ones back in. 12 bolts costs 29 bucks at the stealership, but it beats paying a shop to do it. In real bad cases on Chevys, the heads have to come off the block and get sent to a machine shop to have them each drilled out.

So whatever brand pickup you have, go check your bolts, I bet at least one or two is busted off. This is super common apparently especially when the truck is under heavy load. It amazes me that the manufacturers know about these types of problems yet do nothing to fix it. There's plenty of room on the 6.0 for a bigger bolt and they certainly coulda used a better grade of metal in such a harsh condition. whatever's cheapest I guess.

Patriot Services
04-16-2012, 06:23 PM
Step up to ARP fasteneners. Used them on racing rigs for years and turbo systems. Quality is way above stock junk.
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Moose's Mowing
04-16-2012, 06:31 PM
Step up to ARP fasteneners. Used them on racing rigs for years and turbo systems. Quality is way above stock junk.
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I wish I knew that 4 hours ago :drinkup:

Patriot Services
04-16-2012, 06:34 PM
Not too late before next time. I grew up in rust belt country and became an expert in removing busted off, stripped out fasteners.
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agrostis
04-18-2012, 09:34 PM
E-Z out's and a thread chaser would have cut your time getting those old bolt's out and those new bolt's in by 1/2 and kept the frustration level lower.

justanotherlawnguy
04-20-2012, 11:08 PM
I've got a chevy with a 6.0 and have 3 busted off one side and 2 on the other! You can hear the exhaust leak when it first starts, but once it warms up it's ok.
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lkendall
04-22-2012, 05:37 PM
did mine the other day, had to heat wrench them for awhile.. Hardest part of the job.. Then one snapped

happy
04-22-2012, 11:12 PM
What are ARp fasteners? I have a ford with a 5.4 that sounds like it will need to be done. The other side has been done already

Patriot Services
04-23-2012, 05:28 AM
ARP is an aftermarket company that produces extreme duty fasteners.
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dieselss
04-23-2012, 08:41 PM
Just get stainless studs and nuts
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unkownfl
04-23-2012, 09:01 PM
No don't get stainless. Stainless is weak. Arp makes nice stuff just stay with the bolts unless you know you will have room to use studs. I wouldn't use an easy out on anything important. If one of those every break off your screwed. You can't drill an easy out. I normally tig a nut onto broken bolts as it's easier to get in tight spots. Check your exhaust hangers and engine/tranny mounts. Those are why manifold bolts usually break.

dieselss
04-23-2012, 09:15 PM
Arp are still steel...they will rust again...your bolting exhaust on,,,not a rear end you don't need grade 8 or 12 to hold the manifolds on
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Patriot Services
04-24-2012, 07:32 AM
Arp are still steel...they will rust again...your bolting exhaust on,,,not a rear end you don't need grade 8 or 12 to hold the manifolds on
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The steel is a much higher quality rating. Any rust will only be cosmetic and not affect the strength. They can handle exhaust temp heating and cooling cycles without becoming brittle.
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