PDA

View Full Version : Lateral T


jabbo
05-29-2012, 08:56 PM
I am adding a head to a lateral line. I am putting a T in the line but there is not a turn in the pipe or a head within 20 ft. The head will be about 15 ft. from the connection. What is the best way to connect the T in this situation? I know about the "4 90's" hook up(PurpHaze!!) but I would just like to get an opinion on how most people go about doing this....Thanks.

Wet_Boots
05-29-2012, 09:13 PM
There's always a saddle tee.

Mike Leary
05-29-2012, 09:16 PM
There's always a saddle tee.

Which suck.

1idejim
05-29-2012, 09:18 PM
There's always a saddle tee.

dig both sides back :)

jabbo
05-29-2012, 09:19 PM
I just read the thread a few pages back about the guy teeing into the 1 1/2 line. Most of you said 4 90's and a tee....Think I will go with that also...

jabbo
05-29-2012, 09:23 PM
I hear ya....:) Will 10 ft. in each direction be enough???:rolleyes:

dig both sides back :)

1idejim
05-29-2012, 09:24 PM
I hear ya....:) Will 10 ft. in each direction be enough???:rolleyes:

you will know when enough is enough :waving: it's dependant on pipe size

jabbo
05-29-2012, 09:27 PM
It's 4" sch. 40.....????? :)

Wet_Boots
05-29-2012, 09:28 PM
For adding just one head to a lateral, you could glue on a "snap tee"

irritation
05-29-2012, 09:31 PM
It's 4" sch. 40.....????? :)

Sure it is. Drill a hole in it and run swing pipe.

Mike Leary
05-29-2012, 09:37 PM
It's 4" sch. 40.....????? :)

fordmeterbox.com

jabbo
05-29-2012, 09:40 PM
Have never used one but sounds interesting...Will it work on class 200????
For adding just one head to a lateral, you could glue on a "snap tee"

Wet_Boots
05-29-2012, 09:53 PM
Have never used one but sounds interesting...Will it work on class 200????It's up to you. The principle of the thing is that your gluing technique is good, and you give the connection time to fully cure.

Mike Leary
05-29-2012, 10:31 PM
It's up to you. The principle of the thing is that your gluing technique is good, and you give the connection time to fully cure.

On any mainline repair, a pack-joint slips right in, yes, pricey, but done, labor is zero compared to screwing around with any other type of repair. If it's class pipe, delete the above, as only fools would use the "egg shell" for mainline.

FIMCO-MEISTER
05-29-2012, 10:38 PM
I've used snap tees on class 200. After I glue them on I hold it fast with cable ties to give it time to cure and I drill a hole and then funny pipe or whatever from there. Not proud of it though.

irritation
05-29-2012, 10:46 PM
I have thousands of heads on snap tees on 1" class 200. Rarely a problem

jabbo
05-30-2012, 06:25 AM
Well I've never tried one before so I think I'll use the 4 90's and T and be done with it...Just have to dig alittle bit bigger hole.

jvanvliet
05-30-2012, 06:42 AM
Better get a reducing T.

jabbo
05-30-2012, 07:11 AM
Elaborate please....

Better get a reducing T.

Kiril
05-30-2012, 08:26 AM
Well I've never tried one before so I think I'll use the 4 90's and T and be done with it...Just have to dig alittle bit bigger hole.

I would think twice before doing this on 4" PVC.

jabbo
05-30-2012, 09:21 AM
It's not 4". I was just going on with those guys last night. :rolleyes: It's 1" class 200. Should be an easy splice...

I would think twice before doing this on 4" PVC.

Mike Leary
05-30-2012, 11:00 AM
Here's how Goober fixes a break down on the farm:

jvanvliet
05-30-2012, 02:12 PM
Nice work Goober :eek:

Are compression fittings cheaper than couplings or did he run out of glue?

Mike Leary
05-30-2012, 02:18 PM
I snuck over to see what was going on. Geez, no freezing in eastern Oregon? :dizzy: Notice Goober used wet 'n dry glue on the first install. :dizzy: Also, the "repair" will fail also, as the connection on the right at the Dressler coupling is wracked.