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kirk1701
06-24-2012, 12:51 PM
Kind of continued from here but topic was different and didn't want to hi-jack someone's thread.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=4451896&posted=1#post4451896

Ok, that being said I first want to answer duekster
There are concerns about putting a lot of material on tree roots. Some oaks are more sensitive than others. I am more concerned about the root flare and trunk of the tree being covered. Have 0" next to the truck and taper out up to 5" on newly planted trees. 0" at the to 3" around the tree is you must. I just keep the grass off my trunk and keep a bare ring 24" or less around the trunk of my trees.

I do not use pine bark mulch. IMHO, they do not have the break down well, ammend the soil. Native Hardwood mulch is best. Cedar is second best. I also like Bois D' Arc Mulch very much as it is the hardest native tree around here and considered a scrub tree.

I do not use a Pre-Em on Beds for the most part. If it is a new bed with large shrubs it can be helpful the first season or two.

First, what you mean by root flare?

I used the pine back on the opinion of some others that it would help make the soil acidic which was what I needed for the holy; it did the trick to soon as I put the landscaping in and got the soil acidic my 4 year old holy took off like a weed. :drinkup:

Here's some pics of the tree's I was refering to and the landscaping. Like I said I cut back most of the landscaping paper but IMHO more needs to be cut out and I can take some of the pine bark out and use elsewhere (This fall I will be expanding the landscaping in the back). So right now there is no paper up near the tree's is that good enough of should I even be thinking about pulling more out? Are the roots well enough out in the yard and deep enough they will get enough water?

Also, last picture its hard to see but the leaves are starting to curl and tree looks sick so I've been watering up around the roots, just letting the water hose run for hours and it started to look better.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/206063_3064332820754_582108135_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/206195_3064332940757_701275152_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/303517_3064333100761_1133419989_n.jpg

Duekster
06-24-2012, 01:53 PM
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/kytreewebsite/webimages/qvelutina.jpg


See the flare at the bottom of the tree?
The base of a tree should look kind of like your foot does at the end of your leg. You do not want to see a stick like a telephone pole coming out of the ground.

Your trees look very mature. It appears as if they were left after clearing the site for the home construction. How long ago was that?

I suspect the feeder roots are far enough out into the lawn area that the fabric is not causing a problem. Trees look very tall and narrow like they were in a more dense growth with other trees.

Still do not care for fabric as it block the slow the decay of the mulch into the soil. I have heard that pine nugets can be used to help locally adjust the pH of soil.

I am more of a fan of native hard woods for mulch. It is going to return the materials from the prior generation to the current generation of native plants.

kirk1701
06-24-2012, 03:14 PM
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/kytreewebsite/webimages/qvelutina.jpg


See the flare at the bottom of the tree?
The base of a tree should look kind of like your foot does at the end of your leg. You do not want to see a stick like a telephone pole coming out of the ground.

Your trees look very mature. It appears as if they were left after clearing the site for the home construction. How long ago was that?

I suspect the feeder roots are far enough out into the lawn area that the fabric is not causing a problem. Trees look very tall and narrow like they were in a more dense growth with other trees.

Still do not care for fabric as it block the slow the decay of the mulch into the soil. I have heard that pine nugets can be used to help locally adjust the pH of soil.

I am more of a fan of native hard woods for mulch. It is going to return the materials from the prior generation to the current generation of native plants.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/abs724/Smilies%20Hut/thanks.gif

Yea, the house has been here for 38 years and I don't think many tree's were cut down then and not much work was done in those 38 years to this place.

It's been a lot of work since we bought the place in 1999 (see attached) and we had our choice of tree's to select from to cut down/leave

Most of the good ones we left alone, all the water maples had to go. But as you can see from the photo the water maples did give that afternoon shade I'm now trying to get back with something across the front ;)

Duekster
06-24-2012, 03:33 PM
Bark Tissue and root tissue are not the same. The bark will rot / decay if constantly moist then the Cambium layer will start to suffer then the tree dies. Most of the time this is a problem for trees planted too deep or dirt pushed up on it. Mulch can have the same effect.

Hence we like to see the root flare.

kirk1701
06-24-2012, 04:44 PM
Bark Tissue and root tissue are not the same. The bark will rot / decay if constantly moist then the Cambium layer will start to suffer then the tree dies. Most of the time this is a problem for trees planted too deep or dirt pushed up on it. Mulch can have the same effect.

Hence we like to see the root flare.

I'll get that bark away from the bottom tonight, again thanks.

Duekster
06-24-2012, 05:30 PM
Here is a good PPT.

hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/powerpoints/rootsinplanting.ppt


This pretty much flys with all that I have learned over the years.

phasthound
06-24-2012, 05:54 PM
Here is a good PPT.

hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/powerpoints/rootsinplanting.ppt


This pretty much flys with all that I have learned over the years.

If only more landscapers would attend Ed Gilman's lectures and read his work....

Duekster
06-24-2012, 05:57 PM
If only more landscapers would attend Ed Gilman's lectures and read his work....

Why what does he say?

phasthound
06-24-2012, 06:58 PM
A lot of good science based info in plain language.
Start here.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/people/gillman.shtml

kirk1701
06-24-2012, 07:22 PM
Thanks guys, I'll get to the links later but while the sun was on the tree's you can get a better picture of what I'm talking about, its only the tree on the right so far and the leaves are "upsidedown"???? You can see the lighter shade of green between it and the rest.

I got the water hose on it for the last two hours, about 100 gallon of water soaking in and keep moving the hose.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/553345_3065341245964_541807517_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/575369_3065341445969_282479564_n.jpg

phasthound
06-24-2012, 08:39 PM
Kirk,

You should make use of this resource. There is a wealth of information here.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/extension/pdd_lab.html

kirk1701
06-24-2012, 11:49 PM
Kirk,

You should make use of this resource. There is a wealth of information here.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/extension/pdd_lab.html

phasthound I agree there is a wealth of information, on both your links. So much so I don't know what I'm looking for but thanks.

phasthound
06-25-2012, 06:28 AM
phasthound I agree there is a wealth of information, on both your links. So much so I don't know what I'm looking for but thanks.

Instructions on submitting samples for diagnosis.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/submitting-ppa9.pdf

Mark Oomkes
06-25-2012, 07:21 AM
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/kytreewebsite/webimages/qvelutina.jpg


See the flare at the bottom of the tree?
The base of a tree should look kind of like your foot does at the end of your leg. You do not want to see a stick like a telephone pole coming out of the ground.

Your trees look very mature. It appears as if they were left after clearing the site for the home construction. How long ago was that?

I suspect the feeder roots are far enough out into the lawn area that the fabric is not causing a problem. Trees look very tall and narrow like they were in a more dense growth with other trees.

Still do not care for fabric as it block the slow the decay of the mulch into the soil. I have heard that pine nugets can be used to help locally adjust the pH of soil.

I am more of a fan of native hard woods for mulch. It is going to return the materials from the prior generation to the current generation of native plants.

Duekster is right on with his statements.

Kirk, I haven't read all your posts, but many that I have read makes it appear that you (IMHO) are overcaring for your landscape. I could be mistaken though. If the trees didn't have 6" of mulch\organic material around them when you moved in, then they shouldn't now. I don't think you will find a recommendation from any university or landscaper that says you should have 6" of mulch.

Landscape fabric or paper or whatever is one of the biggest scams to ever be foisted on this industry. Other than keeping stone out of the soil, it is a waste of time, money and energy.

Back to the "overcaring". God created these trees to live without your help, and they had been doing so for quite some time. Now you are trying to make it look better--good for you--but changing all kinds of conditions that these trees had been living in for 30 or 40 years.

You say you are watering the roots, where is the hose end? Are you really watering the roots? Do they need water? Have you checked the soil with a probe? Is there anything else going on? Has the root level been changed--other than the excessive mulch--in the past 10 years since you moved in? It takes approximately 5 years for a tree to go into decline following severe stress. Has it undergone a lot of stress in the past 5 years?

Not sure if you have Sudden Oak Death down there, but I would stay away from any kind of trimming or pruning of oaks during the growing season.

kirk1701
06-25-2012, 08:21 AM
Instructions on submitting samples for diagnosis.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/submitting-ppa9.pdf
I've done that for the dogwoods in the front yard, you may have seen that thread, not sure. But I just noticed the oaks.

Duekster is right on with his statements.

Kirk, I haven't read all your posts, but many that I have read makes it appear that you (IMHO) are overcaring for your landscape.

Thanks Mark and your probably right, I probably am over reacting due to a couple a things, first being the lack of rain we've had here and something that happened last fall which scared me so I'm attempting to make sure it don't repeat this year.

The Oaks started losing the leaves way to early, it was on the news about this and a local tree service was interviewed about it, forget what it was but a lot of Oaks were dying. I called the tree service, he came out and said yes, thats what it was and wanted to do "Tree injections"???? Wanted to charge $800 for the injections and said if it wasn't done they would be dead this spring :laugh:

As you can see they came out beautiful but I'm also watching them for signs of what they did last year and YES treating them with kid cloves

I could be mistaken though. If the trees didn't have 6" of mulch\organic material around them when you moved in, then they shouldn't now. I don't think you will find a recommendation from any university or landscaper that says you should have 6" of mulch.

The mulch was just for the landscaping and to prevent having to weed eat around them, keep the trunk safe from getting hit, etc. I've heard of people killing tree's like this with round up so I chose not to even touch them with such. The mulch was freshened up for three years in a role now, thats how it got to be 6" thick as I didn't remove any.

Landscape fabric or paper or whatever is one of the biggest scams to ever be foisted on this industry. Other than keeping stone out of the soil, it is a waste of time, money and energy.

Back to the "overcaring". God created these trees to live without your help, and they had been doing so for quite some time. Now you are trying to make it look better--good for you--but changing all kinds of conditions that these trees had been living in for 30 or 40 years.

You say you are watering the roots, where is the hose end? Are you really watering the roots? Do they need water? Have you checked the soil with a probe? Is there anything else going on? Has the root level been changed--other than the excessive mulch--in the past 10 years since you moved in? It takes approximately 5 years for a tree to go into decline following severe stress. Has it undergone a lot of stress in the past 5 years?

No to all the above and as for the hose I watered all the way around inside the landscaping where the landscaping fabric used to be, outside the landscaping I was sure it got water because it could get though the grass to the roots all winter.


Not sure if you have Sudden Oak Death down there, but I would stay away from any kind of trimming or pruning of oaks during the growing season.
Pruned the suckers down low back in the spring, only other cutting would had been 3 years back and YES in the middle of the summer but not by us, neighbor felt it necessary to prune the branches up high back to the property line but don't think that hurt them.

Thanks again, you eased my mind so like Duekster said, get the mulch back away from the foot which I did last night and I might note, that wasn't much there maybe an inch.

Duekster
06-25-2012, 08:29 AM
I would like a couple of shots of the tree of concern.

Give me a close up of the trunk.

Give me a shot under from about 10 feet out of the canopy to under the canopy to the trunk.

Give me a shot of the whole tree.


Was there a tree next to it that you removed? You mentioned removing some trees.

Has any thing happened along the edge of the canopy? Landscape, the use of heavy equipment, vehicular traffic?

What has changed if anything?


Oh and what Type of Oak?

Duekster
06-25-2012, 08:33 AM
What type of herbicides are you applying to the lawn? 2,4D?

Mark Oomkes
06-25-2012, 08:37 AM
I've heard of people killing tree's like this with round up so I chose not to even touch them with such.

You've heard wrong. Most likely.

It's possible, but not likely.

Smallaxe
06-25-2012, 09:04 AM
phasthound I agree there is a wealth of information, on both your links. So much so I don't know what I'm looking for but thanks.

That's why forums are useful... specific questions with specific answers in a simple straightforward fashion... and many times there is more than one idea and more than one solution to any given bit of botany... :)

kirk1701
06-25-2012, 05:10 PM
I would like a couple of shots of the tree of concern.

Give me a close up of the trunk.

Give me a shot under from about 10 feet out of the canopy to under the canopy to the trunk.

Give me a shot of the whole tree.


Was there a tree next to it that you removed? You mentioned removing some trees.

Has any thing happened along the edge of the canopy? Landscape, the use of heavy equipment, vehicular traffic?

What has changed if anything?


Oh and what Type of Oak?

Sorry it took all day to repost, busy day.
No herbs since March or April, I use very little and spot spray when needed. Soon as the grape vines start to bud the herbs go in the cabinet.

I didn't get the bark back last night before it got dark, spent the majority of my time watering and with this heat its a full time job. So, as you can see there wasn't much bark around it to begin with I pulled it back with my hand for the pictures.

Hope these are what your asking for, wasn't sure what you meant by canopy?

Yes, there was a tree next to it actually it was growing together and so close to the road the state wanted to get it away from the lines so we let them take the whole tree as it would been one sided. That was 5 years ago.

Landscape, no heavy equipment, traffic and nothing changed.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/314697_3068222597996_1843526568_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/532594_3068223798026_1242397087_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/166002_3068223998031_1767005324_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/403908_3068224278038_1491851967_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/598764_3068224558045_1340014138_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/197649_3068224758050_901828156_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/553127_3068224958055_581733344_n.jpg

Duekster
06-25-2012, 06:37 PM
Let me recap.

The tree next to it was removed 5 years ago as it was clost to the power lines.
The light color leaves were next to the power lines and I suppose the root that looks like it was cut with a chain saw was also on the same side as the power lines?

You need to find a good aborist, check that root cut. It may be simply that that side of the tree is not getting uptake because of some damages to that root.

I see the beginning of the flare but it still looks a little deep. Could be from silt and fillin over the years of having a bed on it or it could be the natural flare. I am still getting the impression these are natual trees not transplants. If that is the case the flare maybe OK except for the silting in while in a Bed.

You do not normally see new growth of branchs come out on established tree trunks like that. Not too pleased with those cuts either. That typically is an sign of stress. I am not fully familiar with this OAK, nor am I an aborist.

I have a really good Arborist that I have worked with for 7 years on several sites. I learn a lot from him every visit we have doing tree inspections.

Duekster
06-26-2012, 07:53 AM
I am thinking this is a Pin Oak.

kirk1701
06-26-2012, 09:40 AM
Thanks for everything Duekster, running short of time here so just wanted to make a quick post and I'll get more info later. Here's a pic before the landscaping and the tree that was removed was done the summer prior, just a note though in the next to last picture on the last page you can see a hole just to the left of the leaves that are yellowing? Thats where the tree that was cut was, it wasn't hiding these yellowish ones.

Second, remember I said I was watching for this to start because THEY ALL DID IT last year?

What changed? I'm not watering up to the property line anymore like you see the grass in the pics below?
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/35788_1267748067258_4363779_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/35788_1267747947255_5716390_n.jpg

Also might note we went to town yesterday; I kept an eye open for others and yu know what, I don't feel so bad I see other three's here a lot worse off then mine and yellow as a telephone book so think this could be lack of rain?

Duekster
06-26-2012, 08:26 PM
If you have already posted, I apologize.

The two recent pictures are before the beds could you try to replicated those "as is" today. I see some good root flare I did not see before. You are the best to judge not me but I can help more with "before" and "after" with similar shots.

kirk1701
06-26-2012, 11:34 PM
If you have already posted, I apologize.

The two recent pictures are before the beds could you try to replicated those "as is" today. I see some good root flare I did not see before. You are the best to judge not me but I can help more with "before" and "after" with similar shots.

Have a look here:
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=380540

Just scroll down till you get to the pics of the landscaping; I'm not to sure what your asking but if its pics as it looks today then they are in this thread.

If not what your asking, clearify a liitle more I don't follow what your asking http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/abs724/Smilies%20Hut/thanks.gif

Duekster
06-27-2012, 07:54 AM
This looks like a root cut from where the other tree was taken. Is that correct? I am not saying the other tree hid the yellow, I am asking if the other tree was covering that same area in the past.

In other words, I feel there is a connection between this root and those leaves. You better believe root issues on one side of the tree affects the very same side of the canopy.

kirk1701
06-27-2012, 05:39 PM
You could be right bud, however thats where both tree's were growing together and the guy who cut it out (not electric co.) we hired a tree service to cut and grind out what stump he could without harming the other tree.

Now I attached you another pic, this was last year and the best I have but if you look close you can see brown on the Left side of the clump of tree's? Also look overtop of the right side of the house you will see a tree that looks dead? Also ours. This was what happened last summer and it wasn't only mine it was the whole area which was what prompted me to call the tree service I spoke of that was interviewed on the local news. He came out and wanted to do tree injections $600, like I said and if we didn't they would be dead this spring.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/294551_1886613298502_1590529275_n.jpg

This pic might not do no justice and might have to dig it off my server and upload the uncompressed picture for you but my point is, this is what I'm watching for. It's only on the tree closest to the street were talking about now, but last year it was all of them on the leaves up high.

Also as I said, was in town again today and repeat of last summer. I see a lot of tree's worse off then mine and YELLOW as if it were fall of the year??

Think I may just be over reacting with mine? I don't know, I mean yea I see your point and get some of the bark back but also wondering if this is something I can't prevent no matter what I do?

Duekster
06-27-2012, 06:23 PM
You could be right bud, however thats where both tree's were growing together and the guy who cut it out (not electric co.) we hired a tree service to cut and grind out what stump he could without harming the other tree.

Now I attached you another pic, this was last year and the best I have but if you look close you can see brown on the Left side of the clump of tree's? Also look overtop of the right side of the house you will see a tree that looks dead? Also ours. This was what happened last summer and it wasn't only mine it was the whole area which was what prompted me to call the tree service I spoke of that was interviewed on the local news. He came out and wanted to do tree injections $600, like I said and if we didn't they would be dead this spring.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/294551_1886613298502_1590529275_n.jpg

This pic might not do no justice and might have to dig it off my server and upload the uncompressed picture for you but my point is, this is what I'm watching for. It's only on the tree closest to the street were talking about now, but last year it was all of them on the leaves up high.

Also as I said, was in town again today and repeat of last summer. I see a lot of tree's worse off then mine and YELLOW as if it were fall of the year??

Think I may just be over reacting with mine? I don't know, I mean yea I see your point and get some of the bark back but also wondering if this is something I can't prevent no matter what I do?

I do not know how to help you from this far away. I think if you follow my inquiry and statements I could tell the tree in question was once crowded by another tree. Then I saw the root cut. I have to think the yellowing, and the root cut are related.

It could be as simple as not enough feeder roots or something more serious.

I would like to see more of that root cut exposed to look for any signs of fungal decay, rot or other concerns.

Do you know how to look for and spot hypoxylon canker?

Again I am not an Arbortist but I do work with some high value trees and consult with one regularly on many concerns.

Do you use Phosphorus fertilizer? If you do that could stop the Mycorrhiza relationship with the tree roots system. May want to look at some soil injection around the tree and back off the Phosphorus.



So far you are doing the right things but I just want to make sure there is nothing else going on. We are about to the end of what I can do from here.

Thanks

kirk1701
07-03-2012, 01:30 PM
I do not know how to help you from this far away. I think if you follow my inquiry and statements I could tell the tree in question was once crowded by another tree. Then I saw the root cut. I have to think the yellowing, and the root cut are related.

It could be as simple as not enough feeder roots or something more serious.

I would like to see more of that root cut exposed to look for any signs of fungal decay, rot or other concerns.

Do you know how to look for and spot hypoxylon canker?

Again I am not an Arbortist but I do work with some high value trees and consult with one regularly on many concerns.

Do you use Phosphorus fertilizer? If you do that could stop the Mycorrhiza relationship with the tree roots system. May want to look at some soil injection around the tree and back off the Phosphorus.



So far you are doing the right things but I just want to make sure there is nothing else going on. We are about to the end of what I can do from here.

Thanks

Sorry Duekster I deleted the e-mail notification and the slipped my mind with everything else going on. Till this morning I looked out the front door and there's a Oak across the street doing the same thing mine is.

Would you care for a picture?
Also, would it be ok if I removed some of the older photo's to this thread I need to clean out some of the photo's in the folder on facebook where I'm putting them.

kirk1701
07-03-2012, 01:35 PM
I would like to see more of that root cut exposed to look for any signs of fungal decay, rot or other concerns.
Just been two hot to get out and do much here lately or I'd done raked it back.

Do you know how to look for and spot hypoxylon canker?
No, but sure a google search would show me

Again I am not an Arbortist but I do work with some high value trees and consult with one regularly on many concerns.

Do you use Phosphorus fertilizer? If you do that could stop the Mycorrhiza relationship with the tree roots system. May want to look at some soil injection around the tree and back off the Phosphorus.
Would 10-10-10 count? I spread a 40 Lb bag around the roots last fall?



Thanks

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/abs724/Smilies%20Hut/thanks.gif

Duekster
07-03-2012, 02:39 PM
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/abs724/Smilies%20Hut/thanks.gif


10- 10-10 does have phosphorus in it.

Duekster
07-03-2012, 02:40 PM
Sorry Duekster I deleted the e-mail notification and the slipped my mind with everything else going on. Till this morning I looked out the front door and there's a Oak across the street doing the same thing mine is.

Would you care for a picture?
Also, would it be ok if I removed some of the older photo's to this thread I need to clean out some of the photo's in the folder on facebook where I'm putting them.

You can clear out the photos if you like.

If you think a photo of the one across the street would help then post the photos.

I still would like to see what is going on with that root.

kirk1701
07-05-2012, 12:47 PM
You can clear out the photos if you like.

If you think a photo of the one across the street would help then post the photos.

I still would like to see what is going on with that root.

Here yu go, now like I said this is across the street and its in a wooded lot, last year all my Oaks did this which is why I don't think it's the roots. This has to be some fungus or disease in the area?

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179538_3102068404120_1420587523_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/295375_3102068764129_1590519665_n.jpg

Now I got a new problem, the only one of the three dogwoods across the front that was doing well, now looks sick and leaves are turning brown like the other two did.

Duekster
07-05-2012, 01:00 PM
Here yu go, now like I said this is across the street and its in a wooded lot, last year all my Oaks did this which is why I don't think it's the roots. This has to be some fungus or disease in the area?

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179538_3102068404120_1420587523_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/295375_3102068764129_1590519665_n.jpg

Now I got a new problem, the only one of the three dogwoods across the front that was doing well, now looks sick and leaves are turning brown like the other two did.

The root issue is pretty easy to fix compared to http://www.ca.uky.edu/caps/sudden_oak_death.asp

kirk1701
07-05-2012, 01:33 PM
I sure hope it's not that.

Ok so you want me to dig some of the dirt away to see more of the root in the area just where the other tree was cut?

Or rake back more of the pine bark all the way around the tree and get pics?

Or both?

Duekster
07-05-2012, 01:36 PM
I sure hope it's not that.

Ok so you want me to dig some of the dirt away to see more of the root in the area just where the other tree was cut?

Or rake back more of the pine bark all the way around the tree and get pics?

Or both?

Both would be better as the root flare is still covered a little.

Mostly interested in seeing how that root is healing.

kirk1701
07-05-2012, 01:42 PM
Both would be better as the root flare is still covered a little.

Mostly interested in seeing how that root is healing.

Ok, soon as I get a chnace, maybe beginning of next week the heat here is supposted to break but 102 today. I hibernate when it gets like this :laugh:

Duekster
07-05-2012, 02:56 PM
Ok, soon as I get a chnace, maybe beginning of next week the heat here is supposted to break but 102 today. I hibernate when it gets like this :laugh:

One way to do this, is to use the water hose with a spray nozzle, it washes away the dirt and there is little risk of damage to the roots.

Just do not flood the neighbors yard.. :laugh:

kirk1701
07-05-2012, 03:22 PM
Just do not flood the neighbors yard.. :laugh:

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/abs724/Smilies%20Hut/lol.gif