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mrsteve
06-26-2012, 03:17 PM
Brass heads that is. Here's an example of one that was removed today. It still functioned, just didn't clear the Augustine very well. This system is all copper and was installed around the early sixties. Has a 2 1/2" main with very large zones operated by 2 1/2" W/M brass valves. Unfortunately its a real money pit for the owners as the trees are winning the underground battle for space. Plus it has the old (buy the book) spacing of 20' head X 17.3' row, so it doesn't like most nozzles. It was before my time, but I believe the fine threads were how you dialed in your height for the heads. Since they didn't pop up very high the height was critical. Some people will have the Lawn boys weed eat around them for clearance, nicknamed lunar landings.

Wet_Boots
06-26-2012, 03:38 PM
That's an "adjustable riser" version of the head, that lets you keep tweaking head elevations. There might have been MxF extender pieces, to let the elevating go on.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-26-2012, 10:44 PM
There was a m/f extension boots. Riggs irrigation supply had the last remaining supply I could find so I bought all they had.

DanaMac
06-26-2012, 10:48 PM
There was a m/f extension boots. Riggs irrigation supply had the last remaining supply I could find so I bought all they had.

Was it that white/opaque plastic one? Seen many of those.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-27-2012, 09:00 AM
No these were still brass. The white ones came later. There was also a version which had the threads reversed.
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mrsteve
06-27-2012, 09:28 AM
There was a m/f extension boots. Riggs irrigation supply had the last remaining supply I could find so I bought all they had.
I found a fine thread to coarse thread from Champion. Sold as shrub adapter I think. It was brass and provided a good way to get to a 1/2" female thread that you could deal with. I've pulled many a plastic head off that was force threaded onto the fine threads or those little male to female 3" black cut offs done the same way. Surprisingly they held for a while. You better back up the lower fitting when twisting the brass head off, or your going to have to get out the torch! Simple head swap is now thirty minutes of sweating an adapter etc.

Wet_Boots
06-27-2012, 10:06 AM
Champion nozzle threads were defined as 3/4 x 27 ~ I wonder where else that standard was used

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-27-2012, 12:36 PM
I found a fine thread to coarse thread from Champion. Sold as shrub adapter I think. It was brass and provided a good way to get to a 1/2" female thread that you could deal with. I've pulled many a plastic head off that was force threaded onto the fine threads or those little male to female 3" black cut offs done the same way. Surprisingly they held for a while. You better back up the lower fitting when twisting the brass head off, or your going to have to get out the torch! Simple head swap is now thirty minutes of sweating an adapter etc.

Let me tell you a dirty low down time saver. If you snap the head off and you are down to the 1/2" copper on the fitting then take a 1/2" x 6" 3 way cutoff nipple and a small ring clamp. The nipple will fit snug over the 1/2" copper and then ring clamp it tight. Pre measure your popup and cutoff so you don't have to try and shorten it after install. I did that for years and never had one fail on me. They clamp sh!t up north so why can't we clamp it down south as well.

Wet_Boots
06-27-2012, 12:43 PM
not a bad idea - of course they then change the ID of the cutoff risers and blow it all to hell :realmad:

mrsteve
06-27-2012, 04:54 PM
not a bad idea - of course they then change the ID of the cutoff risers and blow it all to hell :realmad:
I think Boots is right. Nothing I have will fit over the copper. The old green cut offs are very close, but the brown ones are smaller ID. It's a good idea in a pinch, might have to run a drill bit inside one to get the clearance. Thanks for the tip. Had to bring out a clamp today for a funny pipe barbed connection that keeps failing. The installers around here seem to be in love with the funny pipe these days.

Mike Leary
06-27-2012, 07:29 PM
The installers around here seem to be in love with the funny pipe these days.

I like swing pipe. Mated with the proper barbed fittings, I've had problem zero.

mrsteve
06-27-2012, 08:08 PM
I like swing pipe. Mated with the proper barbed fittings, I've had problem zero.
Not sure what swing pipe is. The stuff I'm calling funny pipe is either Weathermatic or Rain Bird thin wall. We try to use the blue barb fit that has a spiral thread to start. The blow outs I think are cause from mr installer not seating them completely and a bit of pressure.

Mike Leary
06-27-2012, 08:19 PM
Not sure what swing pipe is. The stuff I'm calling funny pipe is either Weathermatic or Rain Bird thin wall. We try to use the blue barb fit that has a spiral thread to start. The blow outs I think are cause from mr installer not seating them completely and a bit of pressure.

Not sure if they used the right stuff. I used RB SPX swing pipe and SB barbed fittings. They are good to 80 psi.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-27-2012, 08:28 PM
I think Boots is right. Nothing I have will fit over the copper. The old green cut offs are very close, but the brown ones are smaller ID. It's a good idea in a pinch, might have to run a drill bit inside one to get the clearance. Thanks for the tip. Had to bring out a clamp today for a funny pipe barbed connection that keeps failing. The installers around here seem to be in love with the funny pipe these days.

I'm sorry its the 3/4" by 1/2" cutoffs. Been a few years. The 3/4" fits very snug.
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Mike Leary
06-27-2012, 08:36 PM
Here's what I'm talkin' about.

www.rainbird.com/accessories

mrsteve
06-27-2012, 08:42 PM
Here's what I'm talkin' about.

www.rainbird.com/accessories
Says the pipe 30% more flexible. Like anybody could know that (Napoleon dynamite)

irritation
06-27-2012, 08:43 PM
Not sure what swing pipe is. The stuff I'm calling funny pipe is either Weathermatic or Rain Bird thin wall. We try to use the blue barb fit that has a spiral thread to start. The blow outs I think are cause from mr installer not seating them completely and a bit of pressure.

That statement tells me you have no clue.

mrsteve
06-27-2012, 08:50 PM
That statement tells me you have no clue.
Clueless I guess then.

Wet_Boots
06-27-2012, 08:58 PM
there is no such thing as thin-wall swing pipe - swing pipe is thick-wall, low-density material

irritation
06-27-2012, 08:58 PM
Clueless I guess then.

Yes, I think so.:laugh:

I haven't called swing pipe funny pipe since the late 80's.

mrsteve
06-27-2012, 09:11 PM
Yes, I think so.:laugh:

I haven't called swing pipe funny pipe since the late 80's.
Alright. I tried Toro funny pipe in the 80's and didn't like it. Had to be clamped to hold. It's just a way to describe the type there Pal. You wouldn't like my description of silly hose then. We used a thick wall flex pipe that was solvent welded and to distinguish between the two, one was funny pipe the other silly hose. When you've been in the ditch awhile you got to have some humor. BTW I didn't challenge you that was someone else. Im always open to learn from those who have gone before me.

irritation
06-27-2012, 09:34 PM
nEVER NEEDED TO CLAMP













You must have a high pressure situation. Never heard of clamping funny pipe. Use pressure regulating valves.

Sprinkus
06-27-2012, 09:35 PM
The biggest problem with funny pipe and flex pipe I have experienced is when a pipe is broken the rocks and debris tend to clog up said pipes/fittings.
This requires the pipe and fittings to be cut out to remove the offending debris.
No problem for those in sand country but for those of us in rock country......:cry:

irritation
06-27-2012, 10:14 PM
The biggest problem with funny pipe and flex pipe I have experienced is when a pipe is broken the rocks and debris tend to clog up said pipes/fittings.:

I find this problem with any pipe and fittings, fix it and go on. The SAM and PRS heads need special care with debris.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-28-2012, 11:05 AM
I texted Henry and he gave me the technical description of my piker technique.

3/4" x 1/2" nipple with a #10 clamp will fit over the top of a 1/2" copper tee.