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Xcessiv
07-03-2012, 01:05 PM
Hey :drinkup:

I'm currently building my fall program.

I live in Montreal: typical northern grass with kentucky bluegrass / fine fescue / etc.

The grass is 5 years old and has been neglected.

Size: roughly 6500 sq/ft of grass.

Last spring, I aerated, applied 8 cubic yards of high quality compost on top of the existing grass and seeded.

The grass needs renovation, with poa triv and other misc weeds. There are also spots that require new seeding.

Would you modify dates / products?

3rd week of August: Tenacity at 8 oz / acre
4th week of August: Lime if required, based on soil analysis
1st week of September: Tenacity at 8 oz / acre
2nd week of September: Fertilize (4 kg of nitrogen and some starter phosphorous)
3rd week of September: Aerate, seed (8 kg) and Tenacity at 8 oz / acre
3rd week of October: Fertilize (4 kg of nitrogen) and Par III (mecoprop; 2,4-D; dicamba)

Thanks for your help.

Xcessiv
07-05-2012, 09:55 AM
Anyone? :(

Smallaxe
07-05-2012, 07:05 PM
Sounds like you're motivated for overkill following the tradition of the national squirt&fert guys...
Do you have a reason for any of your strategy??? I doubt anyone really knows where to start with this type of program... :)

Xcessiv
07-05-2012, 07:10 PM
Just trying to learn!

The reason for this strategy is simply improving my neglected lawn.

RigglePLC
07-05-2012, 08:51 PM
I am not sure of what weed control products are allowed in Montreal. I don't understand why reseeding is needed if it was done last year, and the lawn is only 5 years old. Correct whatever caused thinness. Correct whatever caused so many weeds. A soil test with expert recommendations is a good place to start.

Rules of thumb. Sow seed in fall when temps come down below 85, (29 Celsius). Second rule, begin 8 weeks before frost. You must sow seed when the soil temperature is warm--as this results in quick germination, (provided the soil is kept moist.)
Aeration is not really intended for seedbed preparation--a slit seed job would give better results. Seed-to-soil contact plus moist soil are the two most important aspects of success with seed. A heavy hand raking of the thin spots is always helpful. Double seed on thin areas will help to assure a thick stand. No need to put a lot of seed where you already have grass. Use top-quality seed. A good disease resistant bluegrass/ryegrass mixture would work very well.

RigglePLC
07-05-2012, 09:11 PM
Could not delete first try. Adminstrator delete previous.
I am not sure of what weed control products are allowed in Montreal. I don't understand why reseeding is needed if it was done last year, and the lawn is only 5 years old. Correct whatever caused thinness. Correct whatever caused so many weeds. A soil test with expert recommendations is a good place to start.

Rules of thumb. Sow seed in fall when temps come down below 85, (29 Celsius). Second rule, begin 8 weeks before frost. You must sow seed when the soil temperature is warm--as this results in quick germination, (provided the soil is kept moist.) Why seed? Bare spots? Thin areas? Weeds? Need for better quality or different species of grass?
Aeration is not really intended for seedbed preparation--a slit seed job would give better results. Seed-to-soil contact plus moist soil are the two most important aspects of success with seed. A heavy hand raking of the thin spots is always helpful, more work, of course. Double seed on thin areas will help to assure a thick stand. No need to put a lot of seed where you already have grass. Use top-quality seed. A good disease resistant bluegrass/ryegrass mixture would work very well. 4 Kilograms (8.8 pound) sounds like too much at one time--half now and half later would be better.) 8 Kg seed (17.6 pounds) does not sound like enough, 4 pounds per thousand sqft (26 pounds) is about right. (You will need less overall if you only reseed bare spots).

Tenacity can be applied to newly seeded grass--that is convenient.
Tenacity must be used at reduced rates on perennial ryegrass--that is a drawback.
http://www.greencastonline.com/TenacityHerbicide/golf/FAQ.html

Patriot Services
07-05-2012, 09:19 PM
Start with a high quality soil test first. Fix the deficancies instead of just throwing a ton of products at it.
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Xcessiv
07-06-2012, 09:07 AM
Thanks guys, much appreciated. :drinkup: Will do a soil test.
I don't understand why reseeding is needed if it was done last year, and the lawn is only 5 years old. Correct whatever caused thinness. Correct whatever caused so many weeds.
I had to remove massive amounts of weeds last year, leading to some bare spots / thin areas. I then didn't ensure proper seed-to-soil contact, leading to a success rate of around 50% and leaving some thin areas.

Duekster
07-06-2012, 09:27 AM
8.8 pounds of N could be why the grass is dying.