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205mx
07-22-2012, 08:41 PM
Should I be able fit my 48" ZTR and a 36" Walk Behind on a 12 foot trailer? they wont fit on my 10ft. Im wondering if it may be safe just to get a 14 foot. What do you guys think? anyone running a Kubota out there? Its hard to get my hands on a test trailer and a test walk behind at the same time. lol.

Thanks

LandFakers
07-22-2012, 08:45 PM
They will fit but only just, I got the 14 because of the vac and they barely fit with the vac on. So I would say go 14

205mx
07-22-2012, 08:49 PM
Is that putting anything on sideways?
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LandFakers
07-22-2012, 08:56 PM
On regular mowing days I can't put the WB on first regular and the star on regular. Just over two feet left behind the z. They can both fit facing forward on both the 12 and 14. I went with the 14 because I have a vac and I also found out that I can put 36 sideways up front, the 54 backwards on it, and the ztr forward. If I had a 12 I would be seriously handicapped most days

herler
07-23-2012, 12:33 AM
It's not as simple as just adding a couple of feet to a trailer and done, unfortunately the 12 foot frame is close to the limit of what single axles can hold so you're looking at a typical situation where either way you win and lose at the same time.
It's difficult to fit a Wb and a Ztr on a 12 foot trailer but fit they do, usually the Wb has to go sideways more so with a velke... But most 14 foot trailers sport 2 axles and that opens up another whole new line of expense, double axle trailers go through tires a lot faster and there are four of them to replace...

Read: With two axles you'll spend close to four times what you are spending now on tires, maybe more.

You can get a single axle 14 footer but they are rare and there is so much frame there's a chance if you put too much weight on it that it will bend (even the 12 footers can and will do it some), so it's a toss between comfort and expense.

Big C
07-23-2012, 03:02 AM
I started out with a 12X5 foot single axle hauling my 46" ZTR and a 36 WB....I have since moved up to 16X7.5 duel axle...looked at the 14 footer but decided to go with the 16ft to have some growing room...don't just think about what you need today as far as trailer sizes, but think about the future also.

205mx
07-23-2012, 08:47 AM
Not true about the axle though. I think most trailer axles are rated for 3500LBS.

ZTR is about 1300.
WB is less than 800.

That's 2100.

Do u think that's pushing it?

Also, the bad part is I have a 6 cylinder f150. 5speed manual. 2002 model.
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Jimslawncareservice
07-23-2012, 08:55 AM
Always go bigger than you need. That way if you were to do some switching around a year or two down the road you won't have to sell the trailer and buy another. When I went for my 8.5x20 enclosed I chose that instead of 24'. Regret it every day.

Your truck will pull it fine. Your weight is fine. I have 6x12 that I use mostly in the winter and odd jobs. I've loaded it over 4k. You don't even know there's much weight back there
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205mx
07-23-2012, 09:03 AM
So you think I should go with a 6x14?
What I was nervous about pulling was a tandem axle 14 footer
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herler
07-23-2012, 09:03 AM
Also, the bad part is I have a 6 cylinder f150. 5speed manual. 2002 model.
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Could have started out saying that, you can't pull full time with a 1/2 ton, you need to start thinking about upgrading the truck if you plan on getting a bigger trailer.

orangemower
07-23-2012, 09:09 AM
Could have started out saying that, you can't pull full time with a 1/2 ton, you need to start thinking about upgrading the truck if you plan on getting a bigger trailer.

Hog wash. He could use a S10 pick up and pull a 6x14 trailer all day long. A 1/2 ton truck can handle pulling a trailer all day long as well. Regardless of it being a v6.

herler
07-23-2012, 09:24 AM
Hog wash. He could use a S10 pick up and pull a 6x14 trailer all day long. A 1/2 ton truck can handle pulling a trailer all day long as well. Regardless of it being a v6.

Man, some folks got a long ways to go before they truly understand what is going on here so I might suggest sitting back down and listening to the folks who know a thing or two before someone finds out what it feels like to have 4 thousand pounds PUSHING a truck through the intersection when the under-rated brakes of those under-rated trucks can't STOP the damn truck and trailer, folks are always concentrating on how many cylinders are under the hood and we keep trying to tell them the engine isn't the problem!

Then we still got an under-rated transmission that costs 5 or 6 thousand to replace as well as the underrated shocks and the frame and everything, these kids think they can pull an aircraft carrier with a 150cc moped and we keep trying to tell them, you need at least a 3/4 ton truck to pull ANYTHING full time, any truck under 3/4 ton simply isn't RATED to tow FULL time and I don't give a fart what the dealer or your friend or anyone else (who will NOT be responsible WHEN it breaks) so seeing how it won't be THEM explaining it to the State Police off the side of the road over a load of equipment threwn all over the road and a 5-car pileup in the middle of the intersection, seeing how nobody is going to take responsibility for THAT because SOMEBODY was TOWING an overweight trailer with an underrated truck I really don't care WHAT they told you!

yardguy28
07-23-2012, 09:42 AM
Should I be able fit my 48" ZTR and a 36" Walk Behind on a 12 foot trailer? they wont fit on my 10ft. Im wondering if it may be safe just to get a 14 foot. What do you guys think? anyone running a Kubota out there? Its hard to get my hands on a test trailer and a test walk behind at the same time. lol.

Thanks

when I had my 6' x 12' I had a 36" walkbehind, a 52" grandstand, my 21 incher plus some gas cans and a backpack blower on it. all fit very comfortably.

KrayzKajun
07-23-2012, 09:54 AM
Get a 16' dual axle. You will thank me later.
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205mx
07-23-2012, 10:05 AM
For one, I doubt a transmission for my manual 5 speed is 5k. I could be wrong though :-)
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Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-23-2012, 10:20 AM
Man, some folks got a long ways to go before they truly understand what is going on here so I might suggest sitting back down and listening to the folks who know a thing or two before someone finds out what it feels like to have 4 thousand pounds PUSHING a truck through the intersection when the under-rated brakes of those under-rated trucks can't STOP the damn truck and trailer, folks are always concentrating on how many cylinders are under the hood and we keep trying to tell them the engine isn't the problem!

Then we still got an under-rated transmission that costs 5 or 6 thousand to replace as well as the underrated shocks and the frame and everything, these kids think they can pull an aircraft carrier with a 150cc moped and we keep trying to tell them, you need at least a 3/4 ton truck to pull ANYTHING full time, any truck under 3/4 ton simply isn't RATED to tow FULL time and I don't give a fart what the dealer or your friend or anyone else (who will NOT be responsible WHEN it breaks) so seeing how it won't be THEM explaining it to the State Police off the side of the road over a load of equipment threwn all over the road and a 5-car pileup in the middle of the intersection, seeing how nobody is going to take responsibility for THAT because SOMEBODY was TOWING an overweight trailer with an underrated truck I really don't care WHAT they told you!

That's what I was thinking. I pull a 6x12 trailer only 2 days out of a week with a ram 1500 and I wish I had a bigger truck. I can already tell just by hauling the trailer the truck is being affected. But as he said u defiantly need a 3/4 ton truck if you are going to do this full time. Sure a 1/2 truck can pull it and may pull it fine but it not just pulling u have to worry about. I have to double my braking space. So just something to think about.


And I fit a 50" ztr and a 33" walkbehind in my trailer but as someone said I have to put my walkbehind sideways and I have to put the ztr in first. If I was you I would get the biggest trailer you can afford. But with that keep in mind that it's a completely different setting when hauling a 14 or 16 foot trailer. Tires are more $ and wear out faster.
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dahammer
07-23-2012, 02:46 PM
If you are worried about stopping it, that is a simple fix. Add trailer brakes, plus a good controller and you'll have no issues stopping it. If that V6 engine is half the engine the old Ford inline 6s are/were, it will pull it fine.

My suggestion would be get a trailer that is at least 7' wide though. Most 60" ZTRs won't go on a 6' wide trailer without removing or raising the chute. I'd probably go with a 7' x 16' trailer, myself.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-23-2012, 02:51 PM
If you are worried about stopping it, that is a simple fix. Add trailer brakes, plus a good controller and you'll have no issues stopping it. If that V6 engine is half the engine the old Ford inline 6s are/were, it will pull it fine.

My suggestion would be get a trailer that is at least 7' wide though. Most 60" ZTRs won't go on a 6' wide trailer without removing or raising the chute. I'd probably go with a 7' x 16' trailer, myself.

I'm interested in adding brakes to my trailer. How do I do that. U make it sound really easy
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Realslowww
07-23-2012, 03:31 PM
I'm interested in adding brakes to my trailer. How do I do that. U make it sound really easy
Posted via Mobile Device I never can get an electric brake setup to be near as reliable as a hydraulic set up that comes standard on cars light trucks. Get a electric brake axle,they do work if you can keep them working.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-23-2012, 03:37 PM
I never can get an electric brake setup to be near as reliable as a hydraulic set up that comes standard on cars light trucks. Get a electric brake axle,they do work if you can keep them working.


That's reassuring lol
How expensive are these brakes your talking about
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Mark Oomkes
07-23-2012, 05:05 PM
So you think I should go with a 6x14?
What I was nervous about pulling was a tandem axle 14 footer
Posted via Mobile Device

Why?

Nothing to worry about until you get up around 24'.

Or, if you drive up I'll let you try my 35' gooseneck.

I never can get an electric brake setup to be near as reliable as a hydraulic set up that comes standard on cars light trucks. Get a electric brake axle,they do work if you can keep them working.

Then you're doing something wrong. I don't have a trailer axle without brakes. By law all my axles must have them. They really aren't that much work.

BTW, go 16', you won't regret it.

yardguy28
07-23-2012, 07:53 PM
Could have started out saying that, you can't pull full time with a 1/2 ton, you need to start thinking about upgrading the truck if you plan on getting a bigger trailer.

I pull a 7' x 14' enclosed trailer full time with a half ton. does just fine.

in the winter it has an 8' straight blade snow plow.

the only guys I see with 3/4 ton are the ones who run v blades in the winter.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-23-2012, 08:04 PM
I pull a 7' x 14' enclosed trailer full time with a half ton. does just fine.

in the winter it has an 8' straight blade snow plow.

the only guys I see with 3/4 ton are the ones who run v blades in the winter.

What year is your truck

yardguy28
07-23-2012, 09:02 PM
What year is your truck

07 dodge ram half ton.

I pull that 7' x 14' enclosed trailer loaded with a 52" grandstand, 36" walkbehind, 21 incher, backpack blower, trimmer, stick edger, three 2 gallon gas cans plus a truck box mounted inside the front from 7am until 5pm, 5 days a week at least.

never had a bit of trouble and no one has ever said I needed a larger truck or smaller trailer.

in the winter it handles the 8' snow plow just fine.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-23-2012, 10:32 PM
07 dodge ram half ton.

I pull that 7' x 14' enclosed trailer loaded with a 52" grandstand, 36" walkbehind, 21 incher, backpack blower, trimmer, stick edger, three 2 gallon gas cans plus a truck box mounted inside the front from 7am until 5pm, 5 days a week at least.

never had a bit of trouble and no one has ever said I needed a larger truck or smaller trailer.

in the winter it handles the 8' snow plow just fine.

Ohhhh ok yeah I have a 2002 ram and mine will pull it but its really a PITA....but my dodge been having some problems on account That's it's 10 years old vs your 5 years old

dahammer
07-23-2012, 11:58 PM
I'm interested in adding brakes to my trailer. How do I do that. U make it sound really easy
Posted via Mobile Device

If the current axle/s have the flange to mount the brake assembly/hub to (most do), then it would just be a matter of adding the brake/drum assemblies, wiring, and the controller for electric brakes. If not, then it might be easier/cheaper to just swap the axle with one that already has brakes. It really depends on how much of it you can do yourself. I have a place near me that builds trailers, so all of the parts are readily available. Here is some info:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-Adding-Electric-Drum-Brakes.aspx

If you end up doing that, I'd suggest a pendulum type controller that adjusts braking force in equilibrium with the trucks brake. They work a lot better than the time delayed, e.g. cheap, ones.

Also 1 axle is all you probably need brakes on. And if you've never had brakes on a trailer, you're in for treat as they make a world of difference. I've had good luck with the Dexter assemblies.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-24-2012, 12:01 AM
If the current axle/s have the flange to mount the brake assembly/hub to (most do), then it would just be a matter of adding the brake/drum assemblies, wiring, and the controller for electric brakes. If not, then it might be easier/cheaper to just swap the axle with one that already has brakes. It really depends on how much of it you can do yourself. I have a place near me that builds trailers, so all of the parts are readily available. Here is some info:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-Adding-Electric-Drum-Brakes.aspx

If you end up doing that, I'd suggest a pendulum type controller that adjusts braking force in equilibrium with the trucks brake. They work a lot better than the time delayed, e.g. cheap, ones.

Also 1 axle is all you probably need brakes on. And if you've never had brakes on a trailer, you're in for treat as they make a world of difference. I've had good luck with the Dexter assemblies.

I got a quote from a from a local trailer place...$775 for everything including labor... Um and im not mechanically incline so

blk90s13
07-24-2012, 12:43 AM
12x6 single axle loaded with 36WB up front 21 next to it a Toro 52ZTR behind


I used my 2500 ram diesel and with no brakes on the trailer I would not want to get caught trying to stop quick.


Upgraded this year to a 7x16 enclosed with lots of room to spare with all my equipment loaded

Kelly's Landscaping
07-24-2012, 07:49 PM
Not true about the axle though. I think most trailer axles are rated for 3500LBS.

ZTR is about 1300.
WB is less than 800.

That's 2100.

Do u think that's pushing it?

Also, the bad part is I have a 6 cylinder f150. 5speed manual. 2002 model.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes that is pushing it because you left out the weight of the trailer. My 12 foot tandem axle weights close to 2000 pounds my 16 foot tandem weighs 2000 pounds my 20 foot tandem weights 3000 pounds. But lets say you have some cheap light weight trailer its still going to be in the 1000 pound range add in your other weights plus gas cans blowers trimmers and racks and your quickly near the max rated weight for a single 3500 pound axle. Plus lots of the single axle trailers use 2000 pound axles instead.

Now I towed a 12 foot and 16 foot trailer for years with a 98 and 99 ram 1500. The 98 still has the original transmission but its on its 3rd rear end and was getting a complete brake job every single year. The engine had no issues towing its everything else that was stressed and that worked out to huge repair bills. By huge I'm talking thousands a year per truck. As for 6 cylinders 3 of my trucks have 6 cylinder engines. Of course were talking 6.7 litter Cummings diesels and were talking 2 4500s and 1 old 3500.

dahammer
07-24-2012, 07:52 PM
I got a quote from a from a local trailer place...$775 for everything including labor... Um and im not mechanically incline so

Well that could be a reasonable deal but it really just depends on what system they are selling you. I'd get specs on what all they be using and research it a bit. A very good controller, the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 can be had for $132.57 on Amazon but it retails for around $200 or so. But they could also use a $50 time delayed model that you'll hate. Then you have the drum assemblies, RV style connectors, wiring, labor and maybe a breakaway kit if you want that. So it could be a good deal or a rip off, depending on what they're providing with the deal.

gcbailey
07-24-2012, 08:00 PM
Man, some folks got a long ways to go before they truly understand what is going on here so I might suggest sitting back down and listening to the folks who know a thing or two before someone finds out what it feels like to have 4 thousand pounds PUSHING a truck through the intersection when the under-rated brakes of those under-rated trucks can't STOP the damn truck and trailer, folks are always concentrating on how many cylinders are under the hood and we keep trying to tell them the engine isn't the problem!

Then we still got an under-rated transmission that costs 5 or 6 thousand to replace as well as the underrated shocks and the frame and everything, these kids think they can pull an aircraft carrier with a 150cc moped and we keep trying to tell them, you need at least a 3/4 ton truck to pull ANYTHING full time, any truck under 3/4 ton simply isn't RATED to tow FULL time and I don't give a fart what the dealer or your friend or anyone else (who will NOT be responsible WHEN it breaks) so seeing how it won't be THEM explaining it to the State Police off the side of the road over a load of equipment threwn all over the road and a 5-car pileup in the middle of the intersection, seeing how nobody is going to take responsibility for THAT because SOMEBODY was TOWING an overweight trailer with an underrated truck I really don't care WHAT they told you!

true, true, true.... and adding helper springs to a 1/2 ton doesn't make it any better. So many people forget about how much the brakes and transmissions have to do with pulling.... Why do you think GM makes such a fuss about offering an Allison transmission?

My neighbor pulls a 35' "light" camper with a Ford Explorer w/V8, he experienced both a catastrophic brake failure and on a separate occasion transmission failure, but he couldn't understand why the add-on tranny cooler wasn't good enough. They call things "heavy duty" for a reason.

mowerbrad
07-24-2012, 09:21 PM
Quite a few things to go through here...

When you are looking at trailers, make sure to get one that is big enough for your current needs and still having a little spare room to grow in the future. I'm not talking about needing a 14' trailer now but going out and purchasing a 20' trailer so you can "grow into it". I mean, if you think/know that 12' will just fit your needs, step up to a 14' trailer, the extra 2' will be much appreciated.

As far as the weight of the trailer goes and having the trailer "overloaded" or close to capacity, just make sure the axles are a proper size. Most quality single axle trailers come with a 3500lb axle, after factoring in the weight of the trailer, maybe 1500lbs for a 12', you can only have 2000lbs of equipment on your trailer. If you are worried about the weight limit and don't want to step up to the dual axle, you can have a trailer custom built and just have a 5200lb axle put on the trailer, not that difficult to have done. This way you stay with a simple single axle trailer but have an extra 1700lbs of capacity compared to 3500lb axle trailers.

Trailer brakes are AWESOME and much needed. I know when I had my old 14' trailer, that didn't have brakes on it and you could feel it. I was towing with a 2500hd diesel truck at the time, so stopping wasn't too big of a deal but it definitely wouldn't stop fast, but the truck did just fine. Now with my current 18' trailer I do have brakes on it and they are absolutely amazing. Between the trailer brakes, my 3/4 ton truck's brakes and the tow/haul mode on my truck, I can dang near stop on a dime (towing 7000lbs). My truck has an integrated brake controller so it brakes exactly proportionately with my truck.

It seems this thread has become a little side tracked in talking about whether 1/2 ton trucks are good enough to tow full time. Well, that is a weighted question! Sure 1/2 tons are very capable trucks, but whether they are okay to tow full time is dependant on the load in which you will be towing. Towing 8000lbs regularly will definately take its toll on a 1/2 ton truck pretty quickly. Brakes will wear out faster, the transmission will work harder and the engine will be working harder...so things are almost guaranteed to break pretty quickly compared to heavier duty trucks. But towing 3500lbs worth of equipment on a trailer regularly will not kill a 1/2 ton truck very quick. Like I said before, add trailer brakes and your truck will hardly have to work harder than normal to stop your truck/trailer effectively. But everyone has their own opinion on trucks and what they think is "NEEDED". Personally, I have only owned 3/4 ton trucks, so I'm not too sure how well 1/2 ton trucks do with heavier loads...seeing as I have minimal drive time with 1/2 ton trucks.

Blades Lawn Maintenance
07-25-2012, 08:58 AM
Well that could be a reasonable deal but it really just depends on what system they are selling you. I'd get specs on what all they be using and research it a bit. A very good controller, the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 can be had for $132.57 on Amazon but it retails for around $200 or so. But they could also use a $50 time delayed model that you'll hate. Then you have the drum assemblies, RV style connectors, wiring, labor and maybe a breakaway kit if you want that. So it could be a good deal or a rip off, depending on what they're providing with the deal.

Yeah imma have to look into it more and find out all I need.
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yardguy28
07-26-2012, 05:07 PM
I have trailer brakes on my 14'. for the first 2 weeks I had they weren't operational because my truck wasn't wired for the box.

to be honest I don't really notice that much of a difference with or without the brakes. I certainly wouldn't say they are awesome.

I pull the trailer with a 1/2 ton doge ram and it stops the trailer just fine on its own no problems. I'm not convinced they are all that great. but when I got the trailer they told me in my state that's something the cops look at if you get pulled over.

dahammer
07-26-2012, 10:58 PM
Sounds like something is wrong with your brakes or the controller isn't adjusted correctly. Mine will lock the tires up on the trailer if you get on them hard enough. There is no mistaken their presence.
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yardguy28
07-27-2012, 04:40 PM
Sounds like something is wrong with your brakes or the controller isn't adjusted correctly. Mine will lock the tires up on the trailer if you get on them hard enough. There is no mistaken their presence.
Posted via Mobile Device

I never screwed with it much after I had so much trouble when I first got.

I tried and tried to find the right setting but each and every time the trailer tires would lock up and make that awful screeching noise. so I finally asked a budy of mine and he told me about where I should be. set it there and forgot about it. he also said its cheaper to replace truck brakes than trailer brakes so he errors on the trailer brake setting to be a little less which is where I think my setting is. I'm sure I'd notice if I had to slam on the brakes but every day normal stopping and going its like the trailer isn't even behind me.

DA Quality Lawn & YS
07-30-2012, 12:54 AM
Pulling a tandem axle 14' enclosed trailer will test your 6 banger.
I would not run any enclosed with a V6 personally, after seeing how my Dakota 4.7 V-8 works with my 14' trailer.

yardguy28
07-30-2012, 01:20 PM
personally I never noticed a difference between pulling my enclosed from the chevy v6 I had to the dodge v8 I have now.