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View Full Version : Permagreen Carry Rack


coolluv
07-27-2012, 03:46 PM
Looking at purchasing a carry rack from B&B for my Permagreen Triumph. Questions for those who have used one.

What did you like about it and what did you not like about it?

Is there anything better out there for transporting the Permagreen.

I currently use my landscape trailer but I would like to get away from pulling a trailer.

Any help is always appreciated.

Dave...

WestGaPineStraw
07-27-2012, 04:14 PM
I have a BB rack for our HPS, it's good only thing with it is the ramps were too short had to add extensions. Our hitch on Isuzu was too high. I have a custom rack we had made for our triumph and it's on our 2500hd. The BB rack is worth the money.
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RigglePLC
07-27-2012, 05:37 PM
Sold now, but I used a custom-made ride-on rack that fit into two hitch tubes. I had a one-ton pickup. Very strong. I could remove it, and store it in four pieces(weighing about 50 pounds, each) by using a socket wrench...took ten minutes. It had taillights. Rust was a problem due to the fertilizer and its effect on steel. I suggest rust-free galvanized steel, aluminum or wood wherever the strength of steel is not needed. Be sure you cannot drive to too far on and have it fall off the left end. Be sure to have anti-hopout bars; plus extra-strong, yet easy-to-use tiedowns...you don't want it to be stolen or hop out at a bumpy rail track.
See my album photographs.

coolluv
07-27-2012, 08:25 PM
I have a BB rack for our HPS, it's good only thing with it is the ramps were too short had to add extensions. Our hitch on Isuzu was too high. I have a custom rack we had made for our triumph and it's on our 2500hd. The BB rack is worth the money.
Posted via Mobile Device

I talked to Bill at B&B today and the way he made it sound once you load the Permagreen on the carry rack you don't have to tie it down because of the way the rack folds over the rear tires and the front tires are locked in also.

Can you explain that to me? Do you need to use any other tie down methods?

Thanks Dave...

coolluv
07-27-2012, 08:27 PM
Sold now, but I used a custom-made ride-on rack that fit into two hitch tubes. I had a one-ton pickup. Very strong. I could remove it, and store it in four pieces(weighing about 50 pounds, each) by using a socket wrench...took ten minutes. It had taillights. Rust was a problem due to the fertilizer and its effect on steel. I suggest rust-free galvanized steel, aluminum or wood wherever the strength of steel is not needed. Be sure you cannot drive to too far on and have it fall off the left end. Be sure to have anti-hopout bars; plus extra-strong, yet easy-to-use tiedowns...you don't want it to be stolen or hop out at a bumpy rail track.
See my album photographs.

Those are good points. The only thing that concerns me is the weight. He said it was around 240lbs. He said he uses a pallet jack to take it off and on the truck. I guess I will have to get a pallet jack also. I use my truck to pull my landscape trailer so I will have to remove it after I finish using the rack.

I need a separate fert truck but not in the budget right now.

Dave...

RigglePLC
07-27-2012, 09:10 PM
If you didn't want the pallet Jack...and do not want 6 bolts like I had on mine...have him assemble it with 4 big pins--like the ones used to mount a snowplow. Pull the pins, remove the ramps and you have 4 pieces that you can handle by yourself. I put caster wheels on the ends of mine so I could move the pieces around easily. Unplug the lights wiring, of course.
Look it over and satisfy yourself that both the back wheels and front wheels cannot bounce off. Avoid expanded metal traction strips as they are rust-prone and almost impossible to paint. Reflective strips improve visibility at night. Take a look at your local laws to be sure you are legal in length. Keep in mind your license plate will probably not be visible.

If...you have a flat surface instead of two tracks...then...potentially you could carry other equipment...an aerator, mower, slit seeder, two spreaders, road kill, your needs may vary.

LCharter
12-27-2012, 04:33 PM
The B&B carriers are worth the money. And yes they are heavy, we always use 2 guys or the forklift to install/remove.
The ramps do fold up over the tires and with the proper anti-hop plates (make sure you indicate which machine you have) the machine is locked in good. I do throw a small ratchet strap over the sulky and into the holes provided on the rack if I am going a long distance when its on a truck that I can't see it in my mirrors. If I am using a pickup or doing close stops I don't add the strap but if my route leaves any doubt, I take the extra minute to strap it and not worry about losing a $5k machine.
We added an expanded metal insert on the ramps in the middle so we could load an aerator or other narrow power equipment, our Lesco Slit seeder fits without the inserts and by lowering the anti-hop plates, it locks in place also.
As for the expanded mesh, yes it does make for troublesome painting, but we use a rust converter from Gempler's or Dultmeier, to convert the rust and apply 1 coat of paint and it holds up pretty well thru the season.

If I can convince the Boss, we will order a second one so I can keep one on our service truck and one for the route truck that needs to use the triumph.

I have been looking online but can't seem to find B&B online anymore, did they change their address or go out of business?

CHARLES CUE
12-27-2012, 08:55 PM
I don't have a BB rack I made my own it can be removed by 1 person in a couple min. No pallet jack needed

The only down fall i have had is when you load your truck the back goes down and the rack will drag on things like drive ways and roads that have steep up grades

But i fixed this problem last year buy moving the receivers at a slight upward angle about a 1/4 inch higher in the back

But i really like a my carrier rack

No trailer here

Charles Cue