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View Full Version : Weed Control In Flower Beds


lawnsquadnc
07-31-2012, 02:46 PM
I am wondering what herbicide I should apply to kill the weeds in flower beds with some bushes and flowers. Or should I not apply anything at all.

Florida Gardener
07-31-2012, 04:40 PM
Roundup...if weeds are growing through plants, you need to hand pull. Roundup is non-selective and will kill just about anything.
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davidslawncare
07-31-2012, 05:06 PM
I have found a much better product than roundup. I have used roundup for years and pay anywhere from $145-175 for a 2.5 gallon concentrated container. Big-N-Tuff by pronto is $35 bucks for a 2.5 gallon concentrate and it works better and faster than roundup. I won't say roundup is bad, but big-n-tuff is awesome and for the price I can't beat it. You can buy it at tractor supply or online. I'm not sure where else. Good luck!

Landscape Poet
07-31-2012, 05:58 PM
I have found a much better product than roundup. I have used roundup for years and pay anywhere from $145-175 for a 2.5 gallon concentrated container. Big-N-Tuff by pronto is $35 bucks for a 2.5 gallon concentrate and it works better and faster than roundup. I won't say roundup is bad, but big-n-tuff is awesome and for the price I can't beat it. You can buy it at tractor supply or online. I'm not sure where else. Good luck!

That Big N tuff would be Gordon's version of RU if I am correct. Their are lots of cheaper versions of RU out there for sure, but for me RU quick pro granules are the best as I do not have to worry about them once sprayed. I can get a jug of RU quick pro for $70 and not have to worry about the weeds not being dead when I return. The granules are also a lot cleaner and easier to work with.

jad004
07-31-2012, 06:05 PM
I have found a much better product than roundup. I have used roundup for years and pay anywhere from $145-175 for a 2.5 gallon concentrated container. Big-N-Tuff by pronto is $35 bucks for a 2.5 gallon concentrate and it works better and faster than roundup. I won't say roundup is bad, but big-n-tuff is awesome and for the price I can't beat it. You can buy it at tractor supply or online. I'm not sure where else. Good luck!


Must work at tractor supply. Big-N-Tuff has the same AI as Roundup. 41% gly. However, It is a couple of dollars cheaper than roundup if you don't have to drive 100 miles to find a tractor supply. Round up is everywhere. 2 1/2 gallons of round up costs me $40.

cgaengineer
07-31-2012, 06:31 PM
I have found a much better product than roundup. I have used roundup for years and pay anywhere from $145-175 for a 2.5 gallon concentrated container. Big-N-Tuff by pronto is $35 bucks for a 2.5 gallon concentrate and it works better and faster than roundup. I won't say roundup is bad, but big-n-tuff is awesome and for the price I can't beat it. You can buy it at tractor supply or online. I'm not sure where else. Good luck!

This is all we use.
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cpllawncare
07-31-2012, 06:38 PM
There are lots of GLY products on the market as long as it's 42% gly it's the same as RU, I always go with whatever is on sale, as far as beds go, the granules would seem to be the way to go, I also use snap shot it's safe for use around ornamentals this would be after the RU of course.

cgaengineer
07-31-2012, 09:05 PM
Try prodiamine, cheaper than Snapshot and can be used over the top of most ornamentals.
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Hissing Cobra
07-31-2012, 09:56 PM
Yep, John Deere Landscapes' Lesco Prosecutor is somewhere around $75.00 for a 2.5 gallon jug (provided you have an account there). It's also 41% Glyphosate. I recommend using granular Treflan as a pre-emergent control early in the season before the weeds begin to grow and then to treat them with a Gly product if and when they do pop up. The Treflan will roughly last about 90 days or so and a 2nd application will be needed three months into the season.

Florida Gardener
07-31-2012, 10:10 PM
Yep, John Deere Landscapes' Lesco Prosecutor is somewhere around $75.00 for a 2.5 gallon jug (provided you have an account there). It's also 41% Glyphosate. I recommend using granular Treflan as a pre-emergent control early in the season before the weeds begin to grow and then to treat them with a Gly product if and when they do pop up. The Treflan will roughly last about 90 days or so and a 2nd application will be needed three months into the season.

I stocked up on 4 jugs 2 yrs ago when they were $40/ea. 2 minimum. I'm halfway into jug #2. I barely use any roundup in the winter even for Florida. I remember 4 yrs ago, I paid $120 for a jug...
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davidslawncare
08-02-2012, 11:08 AM
I always used round up PRO. Not sure where I could buy that for $40. Lemme know though

cpllawncare
08-04-2012, 05:16 PM
I always used round up PRO. Not sure where I could buy that for $40. Lemme know though

There are much cheaper alternatives. Shop around, GLY is GLY

cpllawncare
08-04-2012, 05:26 PM
Try prodiamine, cheaper than Snapshot and can be used over the top of most ornamentals.
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I'll check on that thanks!

White Gardens
08-04-2012, 05:29 PM
I always used round up PRO. Not sure where I could buy that for $40. Lemme know though

I've been getting for $60 for a 2 gal jug from my local supplier. Last me at least a year.

As for you guys using quick pro, I'd steer away from it in landscape beds. It has diquat in it and can leach in the soil and cause stress to plants in the landscape beds.

I've seen it first hand after a someone has called me and said their LCO had sprayed RU in the beds. Turns out it was quick pro and caused damage to sensitive plants.

...

cpllawncare
08-04-2012, 09:41 PM
I've been getting for $60 for a 2 gal jug from my local supplier. Last me at least a year.

As for you guys using quick pro, I'd steer away from it in landscape beds. It has diquat in it and can leach in the soil and cause stress to plants in the landscape beds.

I've seen it first hand after a someone has called me and said their LCO had sprayed RU in the beds. Turns out it was quick pro and caused damage to sensitive plants.

...

I won't use gly in beds, for that very reason. I looked into the prodimene(sp) a tad bit cheaper than snapshot but not much, I have a fear of killing someone's ornamentals so I'm very careful what I use in beds

White Gardens
08-04-2012, 10:33 PM
I won't use gly in beds, for that very reason. I looked into the prodimene(sp) a tad bit cheaper than snapshot but not much, I have a fear of killing someone's ornamentals so I'm very careful what I use in beds

You do have to be careful, but I've been using gly in beds for 7 + years now. The key is using a drift cone on the end of your sprayer, takes all the fears out of spot spraying.

That and most larger ornamentals won't get any real damage from minor off target spraying. It takes a lot of gly to kill larger, hardier landscaping plants.

I also spot spray in ground covers such as English ivy or vinca when need be. You might get a small burn spot, but it fills back in really quickly.

Snapshot or any other pre-em is just that. And even then there is only so many weeds it will control. Thistles seem to be one of them along with asiatic day-flowers that seem to becoming a hard to control weed.

Gly is also good as a stump killer. In order to save labor on weed trees, it's easier to to cut the weed tree about 3"-6" above the ground and use strait concentrate on the stump with a disposable paint brush (wick). With the 3"-6" left, you can come back 4-6 weeks later, and if it didn't completely kill it, then cut it one more time for a fresh wound and re-apply.

Another method is wicking. If you've got something like grass growing in a creeping juniper, you can wick some gly on the grass and it will die.

Ultimately, it's the Round-Up Quick Pro you specifically have to watch out for. The "Quick" part of it is the Diquat added to the formula. The Diquat gives you the 24 hour stunt or curl on the weeds that customers like to see. The problem is the residual of Diquat and it's translocation in the soil where a neighboring off target plant can up-take it and get damage. That's why Diquat is used in lawn herbicides as you get foliar uptake along with root uptake to kill weeds effectively in lawns.

Now, the only real reason I use actual Round-Up Pro over a lesser known brand is the surfactants and Adjuvants in the Round-Up Pro which I feel that I get better results over any other kind of Gly, and that's where the difference between brands comes in. That and at 60 bucks for a 2.5 gallon jug, I make an exponential amount of money back on the product and the jug last a year or so. So to go cheaper on gly really doesn't have any financial benefits when the money savings is a fraction of a percent over the course of two seasons.

.......

cgaengineer
08-04-2012, 10:56 PM
You do have to be careful, but I've been using gly in beds for 7 + years now. The key is using a drift cone on the end of your sprayer, takes all the fears out of spot spraying.

That and most larger ornamentals won't get any real damage from minor off target spraying. It takes a lot of gly to kill larger, hardier landscaping plants.

I also spot spray in ground covers such as English ivy or vinca when need be. You might get a small burn spot, but it fills back in really quickly.

Snapshot or any other pre-em is just that. And even then there is only so many weeds it will control. Thistles seem to be one of them along with asiatic day-flowers that seem to becoming a hard to control weed.

Gly is also good as a stump killer. In order to save labor on weed trees, it's easier to to cut the weed tree about 3"-6" above the ground and use strait concentrate on the stump with a disposable paint brush (wick). With the 3"-6" left, you can come back 4-6 weeks later, and if it didn't completely kill it, then cut it one more time for a fresh wound and re-apply.

Another method is wicking. If you've got something like grass growing in a creeping juniper, you can wick some gly on the grass and it will die.

Ultimately, it's the Round-Up Quick Pro you specifically have to watch out for. The "Quick" part of it is the Diquat added to the formula. The Diquat gives you the 24 hour stunt or curl on the weeds that customers like to see. The problem is the residual of Diquat and it's translocation in the soil where a neighboring off target plant can up-take it and get damage. That's why Diquat is used in lawn herbicides as you get foliar uptake along with root uptake to kill weeds effectively in lawns.

Now, the only real reason I use actual Round-Up Pro over a lesser known brand is the surfactants and Adjuvants in the Round-Up Pro which I feel that I get better results over any other kind of Gly, and that's where the difference between brands comes in. That and at 60 bucks for a 2.5 gallon jug, I make an exponential amount of money back on the product and the jug last a year or so. So to go cheaper on gly really doesn't have any financial benefits when the money savings is a fraction of a percent over the course of two seasons.

.......

Like he says, you woul be hard pressed to kill a woody shrub with RU unless you soaked it...worse case scenario would be some damaged leaves.

I too have been spraying gly in beds for several years...my only damage was when I accidentally sprayed a flower that I mistook as a weed.

Cheap 41% gly has surfactant just like the brand name stuff.
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White Gardens
08-05-2012, 09:52 AM
Cheap 41% gly has surfactant just like the brand name stuff.
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To each their own I guess. Like I said in my situation though that the cost savings is negligible over-all. Generally it takes one or two apps to recoup the cost of RU Pro and I'm not even sure how many actual apps I get out of a 2.5 gallon jug. All I know, it's a lot.

..

cpllawncare
08-05-2012, 01:39 PM
By weed tree you mean sapling? Thanks for teaching us about gly even though I am licsened they don't teach you about this kinda stuff, I now feel a bit more comfortable with gly in beds, I'll go get a drift cone for my sprayer tomorow. What's the best way to get grass out of monkey grass? I'm mixing my gly at 5% is that a good percentage for general weed and grass control?

greendoctor
08-05-2012, 03:09 PM
You do have to be careful, but I've been using gly in beds for 7 + years now. The key is using a drift cone on the end of your sprayer, takes all the fears out of spot spraying.

That and most larger ornamentals won't get any real damage from minor off target spraying. It takes a lot of gly to kill larger, hardier landscaping plants.

I also spot spray in ground covers such as English ivy or vinca when need be. You might get a small burn spot, but it fills back in really quickly.

Snapshot or any other pre-em is just that. And even then there is only so many weeds it will control. Thistles seem to be one of them along with asiatic day-flowers that seem to becoming a hard to control weed.

Gly is also good as a stump killer. In order to save labor on weed trees, it's easier to to cut the weed tree about 3"-6" above the ground and use strait concentrate on the stump with a disposable paint brush (wick). With the 3"-6" left, you can come back 4-6 weeks later, and if it didn't completely kill it, then cut it one more time for a fresh wound and re-apply.

Another method is wicking. If you've got something like grass growing in a creeping juniper, you can wick some gly on the grass and it will die.

Ultimately, it's the Round-Up Quick Pro you specifically have to watch out for. The "Quick" part of it is the Diquat added to the formula. The Diquat gives you the 24 hour stunt or curl on the weeds that customers like to see. The problem is the residual of Diquat and it's translocation in the soil where a neighboring off target plant can up-take it and get damage. That's why Diquat is used in lawn herbicides as you get foliar uptake along with root uptake to kill weeds effectively in lawns.

Now, the only real reason I use actual Round-Up Pro over a lesser known brand is the surfactants and Adjuvants in the Round-Up Pro which I feel that I get better results over any other kind of Gly, and that's where the difference between brands comes in. That and at 60 bucks for a 2.5 gallon jug, I make an exponential amount of money back on the product and the jug last a year or so. So to go cheaper on gly really doesn't have any financial benefits when the money savings is a fraction of a percent over the course of two seasons.

.......

You sure you do not mean Dicamba? Diquat sprayed on a lawn would just fry the grass. I occasionally cruise down the aisles of the big box lawn chemical section just to keep up with what kind of mess the DIYers and unqualified people are going to leave me. I did see a weed and grass killer containing Diquat, Dicamba and Fluzafop. Combination of grass killer, broadleaf killer and the rapid burn down. Dicamba is something I would never use near shrubs or flowers. That is the notorious Banvel or the part of Three Way that will cook a tree. Diquat by itself and in combination with appropriate preemergents is very safe to use around shrubs. There is no translocation from leaves to roots or visa versa from soil up. You can spray 1/2 of a leaf with Diquat and only the treated half will die. On the other hand, I have seen the cumulative effects of RoundUp overspray/drift on shrubs. They stunt, stop flowering, have deformed shoots and decline.

QuickPro is not a product that I can get behind. If applied in sunny weather, the Diquat portion of the product will destroy the leaf tissues before the Glyphosate can absorb and translocate into the weeds.

Diquat and preemergents are a frequent application when I go after RoundUp tolerant vegetation in non crop areas of nurseries. The best time for me to apply is actually as the sun is going down. The Diquat then has all night to translocate. Spraying in the mid day has given me inconsistent kills.

cgaengineer
08-05-2012, 04:27 PM
By weed tree you mean sapling? Thanks for teaching us about gly even though I am licsened they don't teach you about this kinda stuff, I now feel a bit more comfortable with gly in beds, I'll go get a drift cone for my sprayer tomorow. What's the best way to get grass out of monkey grass? I'm mixing my gly at 5% is that a good percentage for general weed and grass control?

Depending on what kind of liriope it should be roundup safe.
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greendoctor
08-05-2012, 04:32 PM
Many species of Liriope and ophiopogon will tolerate up to 0.5% RoundUp or 16 oz per acre of a 41-55% concentrate. Grassy weeds in those ground covers are best treated with either Sethoxydim(Poast, Segment) or Clethodim(Envoy). Fluzafop(Fusilade, Ornamec) is commonly used, but is rather phytotoxic to those ground covers.

White Gardens
08-05-2012, 04:44 PM
You sure you do not mean Dicamba? Diquat sprayed on a lawn would just fry the grass. I occasionally cruise



Nope, Diquat is in QuickPro

http://www.gemplers.com/docs/msds/5734.pdf


And your right, I was mistaking Diquat with Dicamba in it's mode of action. Got my chems mixed up.

But still, I feel there is no need for the diquat in RU, it's just a visual effect on the weed for quickly getting results.


.....

Florida Gardener
08-05-2012, 05:32 PM
In the growing season, at 2 oz/gal, weeds will show necrosis within 5-7 days. I have NEVER had a customer complain about that. If they did, they could loil for another company. Most weeds will show chlorosis after 3 days or so. The only weeds I have seen that take a while are Virginia creeper and artillery fern.
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cgaengineer
08-05-2012, 08:23 PM
In the growing season, at 2 oz/gal, weeds will show necrosis within 5-7 days. I have NEVER had a customer complain about that. If they did, they could loil for another company. Most weeds will show chlorosis after 3 days or so. The only weeds I have seen that take a while are Virginia creeper and artillery fern.
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I don't even use a rate that high, in fact I can kill just about everything at 1oz/gal
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Florida Gardener
08-05-2012, 08:33 PM
I don't even use a rate that high, in fact I can kill just about everything at 1oz/gal
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How many days for chlorosis/necrosis? I'm using regular 41%, not pro.
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cgaengineer
08-05-2012, 08:49 PM
How many days for chlorosis/necrosis? I'm using regular 41%, not pro.
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Reg 41 should be the same as pro. Usually takes a few days for yellowing and than usually total kill in a week.
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greendoctor
08-06-2012, 04:25 AM
Nope, Diquat is in QuickPro

http://www.gemplers.com/docs/msds/5734.pdf


And your right, I was mistaking Diquat with Dicamba in it's mode of action. Got my chems mixed up.

But still, I feel there is no need for the diquat in RU, it's just a visual effect on the weed for quickly getting results.


.....

Diquat is the last thing I would want in a glyphosate solution. My preference is for Fusilade for grass and either Sureguard or Ronstar Flo for broadleaves if applying this as a kill around trees or shrubs. In a kill out or torch the whole lawn scenario, glyphosate, Fusilade and Garlon Ester are applied. Sedgehammer or Certainty should go in there if sedges are present. Seeing the results of using Quickpro for a kill out has kept me from taking the cheap and easy way out. Too much regrowth of bermuda, sedges are just top killed and some broadleaves are just singed at the tips. It does become my fault if a lawn re plant is weedy.

Ric
08-06-2012, 10:43 AM
.

I think it is a misconception that you can mix Diquat and Glyphosate in the field and make your own Quick Pro. The Diquat works faster than the Glyphosate and it never gets to work. You are only spraying Diquat.


In Flower Beds that have a lot of herbaceous plants that can be effected by Roundup, I use low rate of Diquat with 3 X the sticker rate. If I spray part of a desirable, I only effect that part and not the total plant like Roundup. Of course that doesn't work well on larger weeds that are establish. But smaller weeds don't have enough carbohydrates to grow back. Diquat works like tree hugger Vinegar because both are a mild acid that burns the plant.

.