PDA

View Full Version : overseeding question


budboy8jr
09-01-2012, 09:19 PM
I want to start overseeding. I have been reading online and on this site, but can not seem to find the answer. So hopefully somebody can help. When overseeding a established lawn, do I use half the amount of seed as one would use on plain dirt. I will be using premium grass seed for my area. The rate is 1 pound per 250 sf. So do I use that rate or do I use 1/2 pound per 250sf? Then when using starter fertilizer, how many pounds per 1000 sf? The bag does not say. If it does Im not seeing it.

RigglePLC
09-01-2012, 10:26 PM
Good question. Nobody really knows. Why do you want to overseed? Improved varieties? Correct thinness? Burned out during hot weather? What species or mixture of species of grass?
If you add new grass to old grass...how do you tell how much of the new actually took hold?

What soil prep did you plan? Perennial rye takes hold fairly well--much faster than bluegrass--but not everyone wants a perennial rye lawn. One thing is sure...the more seed you sow...the more new grass you will eventually have in the lawn.

I don't know about starter fert rates.

budboy8jr
09-01-2012, 11:30 PM
I have been Aerating and Thatching lawns only for years. I get customers asking if I overseed. So I have decided to start. I do not know grasses. For my area, This is what I was told to use from our local farm and garden supply. $5/ lb per 250 sf
Midnight Kentucky Bluegrass 99.7 % 94% germ.
Mercury Kentucky Bluegrass 97.7% 94% germ.
Pennlawn Creeping Red Fescue 96.85% 94% germ.
starter fertilizer 12-18-15

Smallaxe
09-02-2012, 10:26 AM
Unless you know that the clients' lawns are a specific type, it is most likely a mixture... I always buy the local mixture for overseeding, because certain grasses do better in certain spots, than others...
I've already started applying fertilizer once the weather cooled down and I didn't bother with Phosphorus either... so getting the seed into the turf and germinating is job one... dethatching only makes that job more difficult...

Perhaps that is a useful reason for aerating at 1" depth... it punches through the living thatch and allows a seed bed for grass that won't bury the crowns 3" deep when the hole closes up...
It won't do much for rootzone compaction though...