View Full Version : 73 c 50 brakes ?

08-18-2000, 03:50 PM
I have a 73 c-50. yesterday my brakes caught fire. I can't get anyone to work on it, within the next week. So I have to fix them myself. I have done brakes on cars and small trucks before, but I have never seen anything like the brake drum I am looking at now. Does the whole drum slide over the lug uts? It is hard to tell. Also there is the little cover on the middle of the drum. IT is held on with four or five bolts. I took it off expecting to find a wheel bearing, instead I found this strange butterfly type thingey. there is also some type of toothed slide, perhaps so i can slide the drum off the axel? Does anyone know how to take off the brake drum? how to replace the shoes and/or wheel cilinders will probaly be my next question. So you could go ahead and tell me any secerts i need to know about that :)
Thanks in advance

08-18-2000, 11:13 PM
OK,, it goes like this. Sounds like you are into the rear brakes at this point. That splined part is the rear axle shaft. Smack it with a hammer and it will jump out at you. HIT it, don't make love to it! Pull the shaft out and you will find the spindle nuts. Seems like they are round with slots for a spanner wrench. (I was into my 71 5500 last fall, memory may not be perfect on all this.) Pull the hub and drum together, watch your toes, it's heavy! The drum is hooked to the hub and the wheel studs come through both pieces. Assuming you have disc wheels there will be 10 wheels studs, not that you have to mess with any of them to get it apart.

Anyhow, I made a spanner to remove the spindle nuts, they are available commercially but I'm cheap and handy. Get the spindle nuts off, then rock the hub to pop the outer bearing loose, catch it when it falls out, no point getting it dirty.

If you had a fire then nothing to worry about hurting the seal. Slide the drum/hub off the axle tube and you're there!

Brakes are probably Wagner, self adjusting. New linings can be put on your old backer plates, a truck shop does that regularly. TWO wheel cylinders per assembly, if you burned you'll need to do both of them. Only one bleed screw, on the top cylinder. Better plan on doing some lines as the originals are probably rusted into the wheel cylinders. Spring kits and hardware should be readily available, I didn't have any trouble getting parts for mine.

Good luck, even if things look good, if it got hot it's best to consider it trash and replace it. These bigger ones are no fun to tear into so it's lots better to do it right once than to go back in again

Keep us posted as to how it goes, please.

08-20-2000, 12:17 AM
Alan that was a great walk through I would never have remembered all that especially since mine has discs out back

08-22-2000, 02:49 PM
Ok I got it all together execpt the bottom spring. The brake spring plyers keep sliping off. Is it possible to clamp something to the brake shoe so I can get a grip or will this damage mybrand new lining?
By the way Allen your walk through was a life saver. I never would have figured out to just smack that axle to get it out. Thanks

08-22-2000, 04:20 PM
Use a set of vice grips also and try pulling with both hand its just a pain period. Might not hurt to have a little help ie another hand

08-23-2000, 04:15 PM
Ok I know if yousmack the middle of it the axle pops back out. How do I get it to go in?

08-23-2000, 04:34 PM
OK,, that axle can be a *****. You will have to lift the inner end a little (bear down on the outer end) to get it to slide into the carrier, probably have to turn it a little to get the splines to engage, slide it in until it gets to where the splines on the hub and the end of the axle interfere then turn the hub a little to align the splines and push it the rest of the way in. WATCH YER FINGERS!! at this point, those splines are sharp and fit close, just about room for 3/4 of a layer of skin between them.