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Ukisuperstar
11-07-2012, 05:04 PM
Used Unilock Brussels Block Fullnose on the beam of a gunite pool (Pool is 40yrs old). For some reason the beam is different thicknesses all around. The pool is "L' shaped with lots of straight edges, some of these edges have the coping over hanging toward the outside of the pool which will cause the ground to pop these pieces off most likely.

Have the option of cutting the stone off, but will not match around the pool. Have also heard to support the rear edge with styrofoam glued to the pool.
Will be adding an expansion joint between the coping and interlock aswell.

Any recommended solutions?

DVS Hardscaper
11-07-2012, 10:07 PM
i have no clue what a brussel block is, we dont use that brand.

But you may wanna go with a shorter unit.

Or - what was used previously for the coping? May wanna use the same stuff.






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Ukisuperstar
11-08-2012, 08:00 PM
No previous coping really, just a very thin piece of stone that was heavily parged at one point.

Will be using this product:
http://unilock.com/default/products/pavers/tumbled/brusselsfullnose/


The overhang toward the pool deck ranges from 2" to 0.5". Tried to play with the overhang inside the pool but you can only do so much. Am I over concerned that they may pop off?

DVS Hardscaper
11-08-2012, 09:07 PM
I took this picture today just for you. The lens on my phone was dirty so the picture is fuzzy.

The walls of this gunite pool are non-consistant in width, as you can see.

They had about 2.5 to 3 inches of mortar under the coping.

This pool had an automatic pool cover, so the coping overhung the edge quite a bit (for the track to mount under the coping).

Not sure how it would look for you, but you may wanna have the coping overhang the edge, similar to the picture. This way the back of the coping is away from the soil and won't heave.

zedosix
11-08-2012, 09:29 PM
Best bet is to pour a cement sub deck and bond the fullnose to it. This way you can include a perimeter brick around it as well and be assured that it won't fail.

vtscaper
11-08-2012, 09:52 PM
I would say you may be overly concerned. If you give the coping an 1.5" reveal on the pool side you won't have enough over the other end to have a problem. You could also put a trench of clean stone around perimeter so that at least it's not soil it's sitting over then just top soil or pave over that. U should be fine

DVS Hardscaper
11-08-2012, 10:03 PM
Best bet is to pour a cement sub deck and bond the fullnose to it. This way you can include a perimeter brick around it as well and be assured that it won't fail.

Not sure what a subdeck is.

But the pool ain't movin (sometimes they do float, but thats a whole other can of worms). And if a subdeck consists of placing concrete along the edge of the pool's walls - then that subdeck will float with the ground. That is, if that's what a subdeck is.


I think VTScaper hit the nail on the head. Let the coping overhang (sorta like in the pic), gravel is a good idea - that way water could drain.






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alldayrj
11-08-2012, 10:06 PM
You could dowel the concrete to the pool so it wouldn't move with the ground
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DVS Hardscaper
11-08-2012, 10:12 PM
You could dowel the concrete to the pool so it wouldn't move with the ground
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You could, but I would not advise it. Gunite is soft. And can crumble easily. I'm no expert of structural integrity of gunite. Don't know the first thing about it. But I do know it sure does hammer quickly and easily, compared to concrete.

alldayrj
11-08-2012, 10:13 PM
Oh ok i thought it was similar to concrete. So DO NOT dowel it lol
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zedosix
11-08-2012, 10:30 PM
If you are just doing the coping then I agree pouring concrete is overkill and the clear stone will work well. If only 2 inches overhang it should be good. But if you are thinking of continuing brick beyond the edge of the coping then imo concrete will work fine. The way we spec it is sono tubes at 6' apart 4' deep and 4" poured concrete w/wiremesh. This is how we have been doing it and to now I haven't had any call backs.

This is a pool that was done in 08 and what we did was put a smaller coping (8" vs 12") then poured concrete to 30" around 3 sides and 12" on the opposite. Its held well. This pool was built in 1970.

Ukisuperstar
11-10-2012, 07:26 PM
Thanks guys for the great insight!

Ended up with some clear stone around the perimeter, if I remember in a few years I will do an update with how it worked :)

kennymo81
11-18-2012, 04:21 AM
best way to lay coping is to chisel down the old beam a little bit and then to form the beam with thin board. I use tap cons to secure the board serrated for radius. Build the beam back up with sand, cement level all around. With the thin board still on set the coping with a straight cement/acrylic slurry. Remove the thin board the next day and point. While pointing fill in any gaps in rear with a pointing mixture and sponge finish. For the rear of the coping attach a layer of foam with masons nails with the removable strip. After you lay the decks pour a rubber joint. Job done.
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