PDA

View Full Version : tips on 36 toro w/floating deck


lonnie13
02-16-2003, 11:18 PM
Just got my proline 36 floating deck w/15hp kohler. Haven't had a chance to mow yet. Anyone have any tips or things to look out for. Oh yea, It has pistol grips and a bag kit.

Bluesteel
02-17-2003, 12:54 AM
Great mower and good choice. Those things are built like a tank. I like the T-Bar, but you'll love your mower. One downside, I've found it surprisingly easy to scalp with those, but its predicitable and thereby avoidable. For instance, turn the blades off before you go on or off a driveway. Seems like its worse going up and onto the grass than off.

BB36
02-17-2003, 09:40 AM
A really good mower. Fits thur most gates. I have one with Tbar , velke and a soft bagger.We installed a electric start on it. With the 15 hp Kohler you can pull a 200 plus man on a velke and fly around.
My only problem (early on) we found was the bottom belt was split so we could not move fast; when we finally found the problem we fixed it .Since the repair the mower flies.

longjohn
02-17-2003, 12:17 PM
Congratulations, great choice. I have a 44" Proline, 15hp Kohler with floating deck and velke. As Bluesteel mentioned it's easy to scalp but if you watch for high spots and pay attenion to the settings on the anti-scalp wheels on the deck you should'nt have problems. My only complaints are that it does'nt fit through all gates (I plan to purchase a 36" soon), and changing oil can get messy due to the drain position.
All in all as I said I plan to buy a Toro 36" and two 21" prolines to replace the Toro personal pace I started with last year.

Bluesteel
02-17-2003, 12:33 PM
Oh yeah, oil changes are a mess! I change oil so much, that I ended up doing some plumbing. Installed a 90 elbow out of the mower, then a gate-valve, and extensions where needed to get the drain-spout where I could attach some tubing. If you install a gate-valve, be sure to USE A CAP or PLUG! That way if you hit a branch or something opens the valve, it won't drain your oil, hehe.

longjohn
02-17-2003, 01:10 PM
Thanks for the info. There is a pipe in the drain but it does not extend past the tire. This is one of those things I don't think about until I do maintenance then I'm in a hurry. I think I'll take care of that today. I've used the 44 to do allot of leaf cleanup's and it defiantly needs an oil change.
Thanks for the tips.

Bluesteel
02-17-2003, 01:55 PM
whut i'm talk'n 'bout

longjohn
02-17-2003, 02:01 PM
Thanks.

RX7
02-17-2003, 04:18 PM
longjohn-

I am in the southwest Fort Worth area. I am purchasing a 36" toro t-bar floating deck right now. You said that you do leaf cleanups with your 44". Does it do a good job of sucking up the leaves? Would you recommend a steel bagger or a cloth bagger? Do you have a mulch kit for your 44"? Thanks for any information you can give and Good Luck! -RX7

RX7
02-17-2003, 04:21 PM
nice work Bluesteel

Holloway Lawns
02-17-2003, 05:00 PM
Good mower. I like it alot goes into most gates. I am concidering selling one though Have a 36 proline with 12.5 command Pro. Used half a season maybe 100 hrs on it. What do you think it would go for? May place it n our local paper.

longjohn
02-17-2003, 05:50 PM
RX7 I only have a mulch kit, no bags. I did consider bagging and considered a steel bagger because it looked to have a larger capacity and would be easier to handle when dumping. The down side would be one more large piece of gear to haul and store. All of my clients agreed to let the leaf mulch work into the grass, it makes a good fertilizer.
As for sucking up the leaves I mounted another set of gator blades to run doubles and they mulched most leaves to a Sims fine pulp (larger pieces about a 1/4 inch diam). Some leaves with heavier or stringy veins were harder to mulch and depending on how deep they were would determine how many passes I would have to make. I am very pleased with the overall performance of my 44 Proline and I added a velky which has cut my time considerably (down side less exercise).
Please feel free to ask if you have anymore questions. I am a long way form being an expert in this biz but I am willing to share what I've learned.

MOW ED
02-17-2003, 05:50 PM
Bluesteel, I have a 15 Kohler too and that is a great idea. It looks like you had to take the engine off to mount it but that is a small price to pay for the easy changes. I put the Engineaire cleaner on mine and the difference is unbelieveable. It is one tough engine in my book.

Lonnie, I added weight to the front of my 44". I put a 35lb block of lead around the front casters. It helps.

Bluesteel
02-17-2003, 06:51 PM
Mow Ed, you don't have to take the engine off. That picture is decieving, not showing the 3/4" clearance from the bottom drain port to the mounting surface. Just use an elbow or Street-L coming out of the engine. That gives you room to thread the nipple and valve to the elbow (as long as you take the handle off the valve first). I have another fitting that threads to the valve and adapts a long piece of 5/8" ID plastic tubing. Really does makes oil changes quick and neat.

Green Pastures
02-17-2003, 07:03 PM
Bluesteel,

No disrespect man but that plumbing job you did need to be extended a bit further doesn't it? It's still dropping the oil right on the frame.

I've been looking into some of those male fittings that you just plug in a female fitting and presto the oil start's to drain. I could attatch the male fitting to a long flexible hose and direct the oil into the next room if need be. :D Wonderig about leaking and dirt though.

I have a Toro 36" Hydro and the oil changes are a bear.

Why doesn't TORO do something about this problem????????????

Bluesteel
02-18-2003, 01:31 AM
GreenPastures, I didn't want to extend the plumbing past the frame. That keeps the debris from grabbing the extended arm. But yeah, use tubing. The way it works, the plug comes out, insert the threaded tubing adapter, run the hose (tubing) to the drain pan, then open the valve. No drips, no mess. Even when the oil is hot. By the way, is that your sister? lol

RX7
02-18-2003, 09:46 AM
Thanks for the help longjohn. One of you guys asked why doesn't toro do something about the oil drain. Well I think they did on the new toro's. The 36" floating I am looking at has a copper extension that sticks out about a 9" from the engine. It looks like the extension makes it pretty easy to drain the oil.

longjohn
02-18-2003, 10:33 AM
RX7 you may want to add something like Bluesteel has to make oil changes faster and easier. My 44 has a 9" extension with a cap that ends just past the frame in front of the right rear tire. The problem is you have to jack up the right side mower and support it to remove the tire so you can drain the oil into a pan or short bucket, make sure no oil drips onto the belt drive belt and pullly or the brake, then jackup the left side to tilt the mower to the right slightly so all of the oil will drain. I have done this process is as little as 15 minutes and as long as an hour (helpful neighbors). I have this down pritty good now but I will install a valve with a hose extension on the next change. Like Green Pastures I will look at the quick connect fittings.
I have pic's of this but I couldnt get them to attach, probably too simple. I did as the instructions said but.... If one of you could let me know how this is done I would appricaiate it.

lonnie13
02-18-2003, 10:46 PM
thanks guys. What kind of blades do you guys use? I put on my jungle wheels and the chain that came with it sucks, it hangs crooked and when the mower is bouncing in the trailer it has started to bend my panel. any tips?

Bluesteel
02-18-2003, 10:56 PM
Avoid leaving the sulky in the retracted (up) position when its on the trailer. When I needed the room though, I used a stout horse-leash with a knot in it. Then I'd run the leash around the control panel supports, as low as would be effective, and then around & under the sulky. The knot was tied in just the right place to let the leash-hook keep the loop where I wanted it, and that's what kept the sulky retracted.

E-man
02-19-2003, 05:35 PM
lonni13 excellent choice I have a 36" proline with 12.5 hp Kohler with almost 1200 hours on it and have never had any major problems with it. Good luck with it I am sure you will be happy with it.

Bluesteel excellent idea after all the messy oil changes I have done I am definitely doing some plumbing after seeing that. Thanks:D

brucec32
02-21-2003, 02:11 AM
I have a 12.5 hp kohler 36" belt drive T bar that's from 1995 and it's only broken down once. But I use it for gates and soggy turf only. It has surprising power.

Things to look for:

I think it scalps a little more than you'd expect for a smaller deck. (long wheelbase?)

It doesn't have as much vacum as my Exmark Z

Make sure to keep the belts adjusted. They will stretch or wear out and it's much harder to use then.

Take off the top belt cover if it continually clogs with clippings. Or is yours the fixed deck model?

if so, nevermind

googles
01-08-2004, 06:08 AM
Yep I have the proline 36 floating deck w/15hp Kohler as well and I have been in business for a year with about 25 accounts. As a newbie I smashed that mower into just about everything my first 2 weeks even fire hydrants and the mower didn’t even get a dent. I am very happy with it. One question to you guys is when its cold I seem to have to crank it like 10 times or so. Why does it do that? And what can I do to fix it so it cranks over much easier? Other then that it’s great.

Outback Designz
01-08-2004, 06:30 AM
Try taking a look at your choke. May need adjustment for colder starts. Just takes few minutes to adjust.

AuburnGuy
01-08-2004, 08:36 AM
I do have a question for you guys. Maybe this should be a new thread as it may be common among other brands.
I have a 2001 proline 36 belt drive, floating deck. I'm having problems with speed and braking. If i adjust the rods to go faster i have no brakes when going down a hill, and if i adjust the rods so that i can brake the speed is noticeibly slower. Is this a problem with the drive belts or do i have to live with the slower speed?