Gravity Drain Help

[Strawbridge Lawn]

While I deal primarily in Lawns, I have a property that was intially
graded poorly regarding water runof. At the back of the property is a deep drainage culvert, but only about 1/4 of the back yard slopes toward this drain, the rest slopes toward the house. The effective areas is 1,700 Sqr of which about 1,000 SF is drained towards the house. We are removing 6 of the 9 Gumball trees and grinding stumps. This will leave 3 GB trees at the rear of the property where the crest of the poor grade is. s I will be sodding the property once a drain is installed and all the stumps are ground. I am hesitant to build up the soil 6-8" near the house to make an effective slope and feel alot less soil could be used to just taper to a low spot where a drain could be installed and dig a trench to allow the water to drain to the ditch in back. I need help regarding what materials to get and where to get them. Piping, grates and any other professional advice.

? What would you charge to Sod 1,850 sqr ft from a labor perspective?

R
Gary
SL&L

[ipm]

18"x18" catch basin + 6' solid pipe. A lot of hands to dig or a mini excavator. Call berfore you dig!!!!, Is it Septic or sewer??? How old is the home? To meet code you should have a 6 to 10 slope away from the house. You may want to shoot grade and make sure you can get the water to drain before installing the material listed. If you get a mini x out there, you can probably save the cost on the grinder( I would really have to see the site). Are there vents near the soil line?? You need to keep the grade 6 to 8" below these vents or weeps, etc. Any building supply store should have these materials. It is hard to give you a price on the grass, what type? material cost, etc. Hope this helps.

[Strawbridge Lawn]

Yes I will have the owner have utilities marked, but I do not anticipate utilities behind the house. Picture a flat rectabgle back yard 25 x 46 with a grade taper up from the house about 6-8" to a point about 10 ft from the rear of the property. 3 remaining GB trees in that area with assoc root structure.
I do intend to grade part of the forward section to the side and pick up existing taper to front yard and street.
I am not planning to go to deep wit hthis drain by the grate itself but figure pipe will have to run about 35 ft to the ditch


r
gary

[GroundKprs]

Drainage in soil is not a simple job! Need to know how the water percolates into soil also. Water moves laterally underground also. You may need grading AND tiling, or just one of them. If you have an impermeable layer 2' down that slopes toward the house, no amount of grading, or tiling at 1' depth, will correct that problem.

[dougaustreim]

You might want to check on your states laws before having the owner have the untilities located. Out here at least, the contractor doing the actual excavation must make the utilities one call, in order to protect yourself from liability for damage to an unmarked line. On commercial jobs that we do, there may be a dozen contractors and subcontractors, and each one that is excavating must make their own notification to the one call system, even if all of the lines have already been clearly marked.

Doug
Austreim Landscaping

[Strawbridge Lawn]

Top Soil 2-3" then clay/soil mix then hard pan clay 1-2 ft down.
Not worried about utility issue. Owner will ensure is marked and notify that 1 contractor will be doing the work. Since there is no grass there now it is pretty easy to see where the water puddles and flows. Anyone know where I can get a 18" steel graded cap to set on blocks?