View Full Version : Ford 1700 Tractor?

03-20-2003, 01:22 AM
I looked up on the internet everywhere I could a Ford 1700 Farm Tractor.

It appears to me to be a 20 HP Diesel engine, going back to the 1970's.

Anyone know how to drive one? It's got a couple of pedals and a couple of gear shift levers..

Even if it's simple stuff like which one is brake, gas, clutch, which shift lever does what, etc.

And does it really have 20 HP?

If so, how is it that a lawn tractor has 20 HP and digs holes and all kinds of crazy stuff and here we're running 20 Hp mowers to cut grass?? Which one is over-kill? Or is the tractor more than 20 HP?


03-20-2003, 01:40 AM

I had a Ford 1510, 1520, and a 1720
Your right on the vintage It is pretty old. They have made alot of improvements since. I would say it's over 25hp. The stick (when sitting on the seat) on the left has four ranges and the stick on the right has a 3 speed plus reverse on the bottom right hand.
The clutch is on the left and the brakes on the right.
There should be two pedals for the brakes. The throttle is up by the wheel.
I think your comparing gas to diesel when it comes to power?
You can do alot of work with one of those tractors. You should stop by your local New Holland dealer and talk to them.

Is it 4 wd? How many hrs?

Hopes this helps

03-21-2003, 02:24 PM
basically, diesel tractors use torque as opposed to horsepower to do thier work

03-21-2003, 09:41 PM
What would a tractor like that go for now, used but running?

They are all diesel, right?

How do you change the ranges on the left while shifting thru the gears?

So like if you start it up, put the clutch in, move the lever on the right into first.. What does the ranges on the left do?

Do you go into first and then use range 1,2,3,4 and then go into 2nd gear, ranges 1,2,3,4 etc? Or Do you always just stay in saw range 2 and go thru all the gear 1-4?

Why are there 2 brake pedals? Do they both do the same thing, or do you use one over the other?

I'll have to look again for the throttle, is it a lever, like a stick or a knob or something?


03-21-2003, 09:58 PM
Generally you don't shift gears while you are moving. Some tractors have a "powershift" that will allow you to do that. You have two brake pedals, one for each brake (your tractor only has rear brakes). If you are pulling a plow sometimes lightly braking one wheel will help you go straight. Most of the time just leave them locked together.

03-21-2003, 10:01 PM
Do you change ranges while moving?

So you're saying you start out in like 3rd gear from stopped, get going, drive around, stop, change to 1st gear, get going again, etc?

Are clutches on tractors stiff or real sloppy and easy to use?

Thanks for the brake info, I'll check that part out.


03-21-2003, 11:35 PM
You usually can't change ranges while moving. The transmissions in tractors have non-syncronized gears, unlike your car or truck. You are also going so slow that you would come to a stop as soon as you pushed in the clutch anyway. The clutch on my Yanmar (smaller than your machine) is very easy to operate. One thing to remember about tractor clutches is they need to be in or out, not partially engaged. This is especially important when pulling or pushing hard. If you slip the clutch, you can burn it out in short order. If you have to slip the clutch, you need a lower gear. For more info, check out tractorbynet.com. There are guys there who have forgotten more about tractors than I'll ever know!!

Mike Bradbury
03-25-2003, 01:36 AM
I almost bought a very clean 1720 for 9500.00 last year. Had 250 hrs and used for mowing a farm lane mostly (he had big tractors for the real work). I backed out because it was 2wd and I decided (RIGHTLY) that I needed 4wd. I "think" it was 28hp.

03-25-2003, 06:30 PM
I looked at the F-1700 tractor.

There are 2266 hours on it.

Is that alot for a farm tractor?


Mike Bradbury
03-25-2003, 07:57 PM
On some tractors that would be far enough along to perhaps have some major servicing needed, on others it wouldn't be any issue at all. Heck of a lot depends on what those 2000 hours consisted of! Lots of guys buy them like that, just don't overpay!
As a non-mechanic type, I would look for lower hours for sure. JMO

05-29-2006, 08:25 PM
I have a 1981 Ford 1700 Tractor and it is a 26HP Two cylinder Diesel with 4-wheel drive, a frontend loader, wheel weights, PTO, and hydraulic lines run to the rear for a backhoe.

Travis Followell
06-18-2006, 03:26 PM
2266 hours on that tractor is nothing. It would run 6-7000 properly maintained. Espicially that japanese diesel. It's not a lot of tractor if your wanting to do some major work with it. It would be good for pulling a 4-5' bushog or a finish mower or light loader work. Stuff like that it would be good for.

About the gears. You put it in whatever range you want, 1-4, 4 being the fastest and then use the 3 gears to control your speed. Even though the gears are not syncronized you could probibly shift on the go as long as you were shifting up but you probibly couldn't shift down.

07-02-2006, 01:01 PM
I used to use a mid 80s 1710 that had 6500 hours on it and still ran strong, even without proper maintenance... Doogiegh, what kind of work do you want to use this tractor for?

07-02-2006, 02:51 PM
The hr meter was real easy to unplug on those 1200-1900 series tractors and a lot of them don't have the true hrs that are showing on the meters.

07-02-2006, 06:11 PM
It's funny how those hour meters can accidentally get unplugged or are the first thing to always break! I like the new digital one's better. They are a lot less easy to tamper with. Hours are like miles on cars and trucks, they are something to think about, but the maintenance is what is really important. You can have a dead engine at 12,000 while one at 500,000 runs mint.

07-25-2006, 06:09 PM
I got one that I paid $6500 for when it had 1600 hours on it. I think it is a 1979 but it is in excellent shape. Have put about 150 hours on it and the only problem have ever had with it was I had to replace the water pump. Other then that it has been great. Use it mostly for rototilling using a 5 foot tiller that works great and a 5 foot bush hog. Once in a while I wish it did have a few more hp when bushhogging in real thick grass. But cant complain. It is just the right size to haul around with my pickup and trailer. If I had bought a new one the same size to do what I do I would have paid 3 to 4 times as much so it has been a great investment for me.

07-26-2006, 10:19 PM
Doogie.... If ya don't know what all them pedals and gear shift levers are for.... get ya something else a lil less complicated.