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steveair
09-06-2000, 09:32 PM
Hello,

Have to quote a job dealing with the re-setting of a existing 'real' brick patio/walk, a real crap job, but figured I'd give them a price anyways, though I don't want to do it at all.

The bricks are 4x8, red-clay type, and are only 1 1/2 inches thick. They have been down for about 18 years, and were set in 3/8" bricktown red landscape stone, about 4 inches worth. The edging is 6x6 timbers, all in good shape.

I have some ideas, but was wondering what you all had to say. I don't now if I really want to get involved personally, but will at least send a quote.

I don't want to reset the base completely (it really does not look bad at all, surprisingly, especially for 18 years old) so am looking for a good 'makeshift' way of doing it.

I hate brick because you really can't run the plate over them, have to almost hand hammer them in.......pain in the....especially these thin ones.

I was thinking about just pulling the brick, taking some of the stone out, and then rescreed with a inch of stone dust.

I have told the home owner about the base situation, and they don't mind if I don't warranty my work. They just want to have the patio flat again. I completely explained during the estimate visit the 'proper' way it should of been done, and when told them a ballpark figure for doing it right they said no thanks, but are interested in a 'quick fix'.

Any ideas appreciated, and one more thing, there are no extra bricks, so if any break while working, they are SOL and will have to live with it, as I am not about to search the world to find an exact match. I have set brick before like this, in stonedust, and have had good luck, so thought that was my best bet?

steveair

paul
09-06-2000, 10:04 PM
Steveair,Frist are the brick in good shape? If so, go ahead and set the brick the way you would normaly do it but lower it to with in an 1/4" to 1/8" of flush, run your plate tamper over them with a plywood (1/4") cover use a slow speed on the plate and you should be ok. If they are chipped or show signs of cracking then just set the with a rubber mallet, But any way you do it get a good number for it:)

steveair
09-10-2000, 05:11 PM
thanks paul,

I thought about the plywood idea right after I posted and will plan on doing that if the job goes through. I included that in my estimate, so will charge them for the extra work required there. I am sure I don't want to deadhead hammer the whole job in by hand, as it stinks to do, and it never comes out as nice.

Was wondering how many guys do the old clay brick jobs anymore. With the concrete pavers, they are definietly outdated, but I know there are a lot of jobs where they are called for, especially when it comes to restorations, or historical jobs. Remember they had to do thousands of square feet in them at my college because they wanted to keep the 'old' time affect living. I think there are companies that stay specifically in this kind of work, as it is much more demanding than other materials.

steveair

paul
09-10-2000, 07:05 PM
We do Historical districts and have to do old pavers there, they are not bad to work with. The hardest part is having to sort thru the bricks to match sizes :) $$$$. We still use our tampers on them just like concrete, we figure that the ones we break are going to anyways and so we will repalce them after compaction.

steveair
09-13-2000, 10:38 PM
well, I just got a call and got the job, so I'm all set now.

thanks for the info as it will come in handy.

I priced the job HIGH and they didn't even question it. I explained fully how the job was to be done, how I was going to set the brick and what not, and they were very impressed to have someone give such a thorough description, as other guys they got quotes from were much cheaper but also did not give a sense of "expertise" when they discussed how it would be done.

I'll make more next weekend doing this job than I make in a month at the airport..........got to think about going full time one of these days.

thanks,

steveair