Mow pattern on a slope

[BigDave]

Please forgive me for posting in this forum -- I usually post in the Homeowner forum, but I'd really like the help of some people who have experience with slopes like BushHogBoy and Hoss65 (I don't think BHB patrols the Homeowner forum too much).

Anyway, our front lawn is about an acre on a 15 degree slope. There is no flat ground at the bottom of the hill -- instead, there's a retaining wall.

I have an Exmark Lazer HP 52". For me to mow across the hill is no problem. But I understand from this site that it's best to vary your pattern. I've ruled out mowing vertically, because it's impossible to turn back up the hill on the slope. But I've been trying to mow diagonally (one direction one week, the other direction the next week).

At the bottom of the hill (where the retaining wall is), I've tried coming to a complete stop, and then making a zero-turn back up. But I get lots of slippage (and it's scary! :eek:)

I've also tried this: at the bottom of the hill (in this direction: "/"), straighten out ("-"), then back up, and then turn back up the hill ("/"). This works better, but I still tear the turf.

The last thing I've tried is to choose a square of ground to come down the hill diagonally, then across, then up diagonally -- working my way to close in the square (actually a parallelagram). But in this case, when going across, I'm going over the same area over and over, which defeats the idea of relieving compaction.

Any advice? Thanks in advance!

[BRL]

Not every lawn, part of lawn, site or situation will be perfect or ideal, and we sometimes end up driving over a particular area over & over no matter what we try. (We also drive the border over & over on each lawn, so it is unavoidable) Don't sweat it too much. Sounds like you found a good way to deal with it, and the parallelogram pattern probably looks cool also. Mix that pattern with your horizontal pattern mostly if they are the easiest. When doing your diagonal patterns, it is OK to do a "K-turn" to get turned around like you describe. You just have to slow it down & be careful to do it safely combined with not tearing up the turf. Good luck!

[stang358]

I have several properties like you describe(as well as my own which is almost identical as you describe). The "K" turn is actually the best way to NOT tear up the turf. As long as you don't cut when the ground is wet and be careful when turning, only using 2 patterns like you describe should be fine. Do you have any pics that you could post that we could maybe see exactly what you are talking about and maybe there is a better solution. Although I think what you are doing is the best solution. Good luck.

[tailoredlook]

On a property as you describe what I would do is bac cut it every third time. Meaning if it is easiest to cut across every week then do so, but on the third time cut it across but in the oppisite direction.

[Envy Lawn Service]

Are you getting very visible tire track marks up and down the hill where you drive?

[BigDave]

Thanks everyone.

I did a lot of thinking yesterday. tailoredlook - I think I'll follow your advice for the back yard and sides (to simply mow the perimeter and work my way in, but back-cut every other week).

But in the front, I'd still like to mow diagonally, if only to approximate the cross-hatch look, like in Envy's icon.

You guys mentioned a K-turn. I did a Search on this, and found this definition from "Roger":

When I am turning right, I make the initial part of the turn a bit wide, keeping the inside wheel turning forward. When the machine is turned about 110 degrees, then reverse the inside wheel, keeping the left side wheel (outside wheel) turning forward. When the machine is nearly turned 180 degrees, then restart the inside wheel forward again, lining up the machine to make the reverse pass.

My only question is: doesn't this violate the mantra to "always keep both wheels turning"? (In this definition, the inside wheel is stopping and changing direction twice).

Next time I mow, I'll compare this K-turn with my slower 3-point turn.

Thanks again.

[BRL]

"I've also tried this: at the bottom of the hill (in this direction: "/"), straighten out ("-"), then back up, and then turn back up the hill ("/"). This works better, but I still tear the turf."

I just used the term "K-turn" to describe that part you wrote. I always thought K-turn and a 3 point turn were the same thing??
Anyway, in the description you posted, Roger says that while the
inside wheel is changing directions, it is never moving on its own. The outside wheel is either moving opposite or in the same direction whenever the inside one is moving. So in that description the "mantra" is not broken, the mower gets turned around where needed, and the turf doesn't get beat up while doing so. K turn isn't an exact description of how to get the mower turned around, but basically we use it to describe getting turned around without a true zero turn in tough situations. Good luck.

[BigDave]

Tried the K-turn this evening -- and great scott, I think I got it! And in a light rain no less (hey, with the job and the family, if you've got an hour to mow, you do it).

Thanks everyone. Stang, here's that picture you asked for. Please excuse the bushes which badly need trimming.

[Joel B.]

BigDave,

That sure is a pretty picture, do you take care of the grass yourself? Do you have a sprinkler system?

Joel B.

[Green Pastures]

That looks great!:D

[FrankenScagMachines]

BigDave the lawn looks good I don't see any damage. I don't see how you are having problems on it though, thats not that steep IMO. Just go slow and very gradually slow down, maybe completely stop at the end of a row, then slowly make your turn. This has been said many many times before, the way to steer on a hill with a zero turn machine is using the downhill tire to turn the machine, the uphill tire is useless. You may have to make small circle turns instead of zero turning. It's hard for me to tell you because I don't have alot of experience with ZTR's on hills, just walk behinds and sulkies. I have run ZTR's on hills before but usually didn't have to turn it on the sloped area.

[stang358]

That looks very similar to my yard. I think you may have a little more of a slope, but now that you get what we are calling a "K" turn, you see what a difference it can make not tearing up the turf. By the way, you have a very nice looking place. Yard looks great, keep up the good work!

Here is a picture of mine. I have found it best to cut diagonally in this direction. As long as the ground isn't soft, I can cut it without damage in about 15 minutes. Gotta love ZTRs.

[crazygator]

Big Dave,

Nice picture. I own the Lazer HP 52", and I think seeing that photo you could easily go up and down with no problem.

I have an account that has a nasty slope in the back that I can go straight up, or across and turn around in the steepest part (always with the front turning up hill).

[BigDave]

Thanks all, I *really* appreciate it. Each week I'm getting more and more comfortable. There is one area that no matter what I do, my mower wants to slide down -- which I've now resolved to just cut with my 21" until this incredibly wet Spring starts to dry up.

[mike9497]

the lazer Z HP is not a great hill mower.a full size lazer or a 3 wheeler would work better.but a k turn or a 3 point turn would work out fine on that hill.you don't need are help.you know what your doing

[LAWNGODFATHER]

Originally posted by BushHogBoy
BigDave the lawn looks good I don't see any damage. I don't see how you are having problems on it though, thats not that steep IMO. Just go slow and very gradually slow down, maybe completely stop at the end of a row, then slowly make your turn. This has been said many many times before, the way to steer on a hill with a zero turn machine is using the downhill tire to turn the machine, the uphill tire is useless. You may have to make small circle turns instead of zero turning. It's hard for me to tell you because I don't have alot of experience with ZTR's on hills, just walk behinds and sulkies. I have run ZTR's on hills before but usually didn't have to turn it on the sloped area.

And you have a ZTR? oooops I forgot you don't.:eek:

And what would you see damage of? not disease, you wouldn't know the first thing about that.

ONce you get the hang of that mower, you will be cutting that hill any way you want in time.

[crazygator]

Originally posted by mike9497
the lazer Z HP is not a great hill mower.

Mike,

Sorry to bust your bubble, but yes it is. I would try mine on anything, unless it was absolutely impossible.

I have had mine anywhere I can put a walkbehind, if that helps you any...;)

[Envy Lawn Service]

Originally posted by BushHogBoy
BigDave the lawn looks good I don't see any damage. I don't see how you are having problems on it though, thats not that steep IMO. Just go slow and very gradually slow down, maybe completely stop at the end of a row, then slowly make your turn. This has been said many many times before, the way to steer on a hill with a zero turn machine is using the downhill tire to turn the machine, the uphill tire is useless. You may have to make small circle turns instead of zero turning.

I agree, I don't see any damage either.

Sometimes it's easier to have problems than to see them in pictures. It doesn' have to be steep to cause a problem. The only thing that has to happen is a change in weight distribution and a less than ideal control of the tire the weight is off of. Then you have a skid mark.

In some places it takes a delicate touch and fluid motion to prevent marks in the turf. Also the approach to the trn has to be just right. BHB is fairly close to the right idea. But I wouldn't come to a complete stop. Loop out in a "J" then back in to line up for the next pass. Always keep the tires turning in the same direction so that all the force for motion is not on one tire, not even the lower one.

As time goes by and conditions get better, you'll be able to tighten the turns up more. You'll become more "one" with the machine and be able to better judge what will cause spins, skids and divots.

As pictured below, in your case I would gradually slow the inside (left) tire, keeping enough motion to prevent it from skiding as more weight transfers off and to help the lower tire with some directional push. Gradually slowing it to a coast if possible at a point in the turn. Once the front is turned uphill enough to shift the weight back on the inside tire, then it's safe to engage reverse slowly to both tires. Then basically it's the same idea used to turn back and fall in line for the next pass.