View Full Version : Fire Pit made out of pavers???????

05-25-2003, 09:12 AM
Has anyone every built or heard of a Fire Pit made out of pavers...
I saw a photograph of one, But no manufacturer's name could be found...
It was a kit that included approx. a 30-36" dia. paver circle, about 24" in height w/ a metal ring insert that had hooks for two metal grills to cook on.

If anyone has info or links, I would greatly appreciate it.


05-25-2003, 11:21 AM
We Build ours out of natural stone, looks more rustic , go to your local supply yard. Will be easier than fired brick.

ACut AboveLandscapin
05-25-2003, 11:39 AM
Yea, There is a company called Pyzique who has block and a plan that goes with it.


Good Luck

05-25-2003, 02:43 PM
Do not make a fire pit out of concrete pavers. It is not safe. They will pop and throw pieces of concrete everywhere when heated. You would need to line the inside of the pit with fire brick or some other refractory material. I don't know what those things are made of that they mentioned in the previous post. However, if made of concrete, don't use them either. :(

ACut AboveLandscapin
05-25-2003, 05:04 PM
The ones in the previous post come with a liner if you look at the pictures in the website, you can see it.

05-26-2003, 01:08 PM
Do not make a fire pit out of concrete pavers. It is not safe. They will pop and throw pieces of concrete everywhere when heated.

Not sure what you are talking about. I made a fire pit in my back yard with concrete nursery stone and have had some hellacious camp fires over the years with no concrete spalling.

05-26-2003, 11:41 PM
There just happens to be a n article on this very subject in the June issue of The Family Handyman. well in this case they are retaining wall stones but it is basically the same idea.
As for cracking and exploding I use field stone for mine and they occasionally pop with some force as well. Never has been a problem so far.

05-28-2003, 12:29 AM
If the fire is hot enough for an extended period of time the standard pavers could very well explode in a very damaging fashion.

If you have any connections with anyone in the refractory business, definately contact them about materials.


05-28-2003, 03:02 AM
I'm 100% with Darwin on this one. It's all about the moisture content in the stone it steams and then explodes.

Groundcover Solutions
05-28-2003, 04:01 PM
my friend just did on of these. He got a paice of steal pipe or somehting like that and dug a hole and placed it in the ground and back filled around it then he put about 3-4 feet of pavers around the whole thing. it looks pretty good, at least i think so. As for the exploding I have no idea on that one!?

05-28-2003, 05:39 PM
Basically its the moister content in the stone. It may seem hard to be real but as stone ages it slowly continues to dry and cure. Just like how the hoover dam is still liquid concrete in its thickest parts. If you find old bricks that have set out in sun for a long time then they should be good to go. don't go all out with a huge, hot fire the first couple times. Give the bricks a chance to setlle up to the heat. The cement in them will hold the sand together pretty damn good if they're dry.

I don't know about the retaining wall pavers though...they seem like they would definantly crack or explode considering sometimes if you just set them down wrong on a driveway they'll crack.

FIRE! :angry:

05-30-2003, 07:18 PM
First off, where did you ever hear the Hoover Dam is still liquid inside? That's about the goofiest thing I've ever heard of! Concrete does not DRY to harden, it SETS, chemically. And the interior of a big block will set faster than that nearer the surface due to temperature rise from the heat of hydration.

Those blocks shown in the fire pit picture are the same stuff as concrete building blocks and are relatively porous. Concrete ( AND porous stone) will pop pieces, or explode, if they are dense enough that they do not vent off the steam that forms inside them as they are heated and trapped water turns to steam and builds pressure. If the material is porous enough the stem will escape through the tiny voids before it can build pressure enough to exceed the tensile strength of the concrete (or stone).

No way would I consider using a compressed concrete paver or wall block in a fire pit. Those are very dense and just might make fine bombs.

I saw several models of concrete fireplaces that were made of concrete "logs". That's the only way I can describe them, they looked just like the Lincoln Logs my kids (and I) played with. They were formed from a very porous concrete material and I suspect they are safe to heat or the company would be sitting on a huge potential product liability issue.

Green in Idaho
05-31-2003, 04:54 PM
Shoot I just use a 55gal drum out front to roast my marshmellow. Neighors love it too!

05-31-2003, 07:21 PM
I remember hearing something about the hoover damn not being hardnend for a like another 100 years or something like that..

06-01-2003, 02:06 PM
Originally posted by JML
I remember hearing something about the hoover damn not being hardnend for a like another 100 years or something like that..

Concrete is "hard" in a very few hours. Normal specification times are 7 days and 28 days for hardening to design strength. On a typical residential foundation the material is "hard" enough that you can remove forms in under 24 hours and have a usable foundation. But there is a specific strength to be met at the 7 day point, and another at 28 days, both of which relate to the design strength of the mixture. Design strength is what the mix is supposed to yield and is considered adequate to do the job intended. Once at that point any further increase in strength is irrelevant to the use of the project.

Ultimate strength is a different thing though. And that is where concrete is considered to continue to "harden" for years. Not all the cement particles are thoroughly wet during the mixing process. They will continue to react with ambient moisture and raise the strength of the concrete although that increase is normally a tiny fraction of, and in addition to, the design strength.

But there is no "liquid" concrete in a poured section within a very few hours of concrete placement, irrespective of the size of the pour.

One of hte main concerns with really big mass pours is the heat given off by the cement/water reaction (heat of hydration). That heat causes the mass to swell slightly while hte concrete is still in a plastic state. As the mass cools the thermal shrinkage can cause cracking due to the lesser strength of concrete in tension. For that reason it is common to mix crushed ice into the concrete in palce of normal mix water to cool the mix as far as possibe prior to placement. Some huge pours incorporate piping within the pour that allows the circulation of chilled water to remove the heat. The pipes are abandoned in place after the curing period.

06-01-2003, 07:01 PM
Very good, factual explaination.:)

06-14-2003, 12:35 AM
Try this one

Rex Mann
06-14-2003, 02:24 AM
Nice work!

This is how we do it using fire brick.

My first picture post.



Green in Idaho
06-14-2003, 02:15 PM
Nice for both.

Rex Mann, so you did regular pavers all around and as capstones. And one row of fire brick on inside. Is it just sand on the bottom? Anything under the sand in the middle of the pit?

Good pic. Bring more!

Rex Mann
06-14-2003, 02:33 PM
Cement under the fire bricks.

Fire brick in the center covered by sand. Sand makes it look better.



06-16-2003, 12:24 AM
If you look in the CST booklet they have a design of a fire pit. They are located right in NJ. If you are looking for some material etc. stop up to XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX and we can help you out!

06-20-2003, 04:16 PM
SCL and Rex,

Nice work!

I have been very impressed with the work SCL posts on here (makes me glad he's not my competition!)

I'd love the opportuinity to ride sidesaddle with you and learn some of the stonework you do.

Great stuff