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fblandscape
05-27-2003, 12:17 AM
I have been liscensed for several years to apply pesticides. However it is not something I enjoy. I have no problems with applying oils, or soaps, and few problems with Merit. However herbicides bother me in regards to application, as well as the more harsh insecticides. Does anybody else try not to touch certain types of pesticides? Whether you are liscensed or not.

LawnMagic1
05-27-2003, 07:18 PM
I dont spray insecticides. Let me rephrase that....I wont spray insecticides. They are nasty to me. I would rather sub-out spraying insecticides than actually do it myself.

rob1325
05-27-2003, 08:31 PM
I wear a mask ever time I put down a pesticide, granular or spray. But, I don't do much insecticides other than Merit and fert. combo, hate them also.

GrazerZ
05-27-2003, 09:10 PM
I wont spray carbamates or organophosphates. Talstar is the alternative for my usage.

KLMlawn
05-28-2003, 12:30 AM
Originally posted by GrazerZ
I wont spray carbamates or organophosphates. Talstar is the alternative for my usage.

I believe that if you look at the LD/50 of Talstar, it is in fact lower, (meaning more potentially leathal) than Dursban.

SWD
05-28-2003, 06:54 AM
First off all, any synthetic pesticide, be it a fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide, has a risk associated with it.
Second, regardless if it is a organophosphate or carbamate based insecticide, all are cancerous/lethal and the ones with the most severe side effects are the fungicides, due to repeated/prolonged exposure.
I see more relaxed use of pps/wps safety gear with fungicides than anything else.
Third, If you are saying not to use pesticides based on the LD - than stay away from aspirin, it's LD is 50. The vapour fumes from gasoline carries a greater degree of cancer than pesticides.
If you are hypersensitive to a particular mode of chemical, than that tells you your application methods need to be improved.

Rtom45
05-28-2003, 08:56 AM
Paraquat and Diquat. I think I'm a walking time bomb - I had so much exposure to those chemicals when I was younger. If I'm not mistaken, those accumulate in your body and never break down.

KLMlawn
05-28-2003, 03:22 PM
Rtom45 ...
I use to spread cyanide powder around my garden when I was younger ... no gloves, mask, or anything resembling PPE. LOL

Runner
05-29-2003, 05:32 PM
Aluminum Phisphate is a good one to stay away from too. Some companies use this for their "mole control". It creates the gas Phosphine when it comes into contact with moisture. This stuff will fester your lungs and kill you in a minute.

Green Pastures
05-29-2003, 08:34 PM
All of them. :D

Pesticide licenses are way to expensive for my blood right now. Plus I'm probably to dumb to pass the applicators test. ;)

dan deutekom
05-29-2003, 09:06 PM
In reply to SWD's post

quote "First off all, any synthetic pesticide, be it a fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide, has a risk associated with it." should read First off all, any pesticide, be it synthetic or organic, fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide, has a risk associated with it. A pesticide by definition kills. If it didn't there would be no point in using it.

quote "Second, regardless if it is a organophosphate or carbamate based insecticide, all are cancerous/lethal and the ones with the most severe side effects are the fungicides, due to repeated/prolonged exposure." should read
Second, regardless if it is a organophosphate, carbamate or organic based insecticide, most are cancerous and all are lethal and can have severe side effects due to repeated/prolonged exposure.

The rest is right on. Protect yourself and use the material wisely. Everyday we use things that pose far greater risks without even thinking about it.

xpnd
06-01-2003, 09:32 AM
I suppose pendamethlin would be my first choice. Of all the herb/pest I use I use this one the most - 25 gallons of concentrate. It gives me the most prolonged and repeated exposures. Even though I use the the PPE, I can still smell it on me when I go into the shower at the end of the day.

Fvstringpicker
06-02-2003, 11:22 AM
Anything rated "danger" and skull/cross-bones

Tharrell
06-03-2003, 06:27 AM
The only one I have that has a skull and crossbones is Zinc, for rodent control. It's pure Zinc not the stuff that's rtu. I rarely open that can because it has a secondary kill. The times it's used are when nothing else will work, like when rodents have been feeding on dog food (vitamin k1, antidote).

Dchall_San_Antonio
08-20-2003, 02:34 PM
Originally posted by dan deutekom
In reply to SWD's post

quote "First off all, any synthetic pesticide, be it a fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide, has a risk associated with it." should read First off all, any pesticide, be it synthetic or organic, fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide, has a risk associated with it. A pesticide by definition kills. If it didn't there would be no point in using it.

quote "Second, regardless if it is a organophosphate or carbamate based insecticide, all are cancerous/lethal and the ones with the most severe side effects are the fungicides, due to repeated/prolonged exposure." should read
Second, regardless if it is a organophosphate, carbamate or organic based insecticide, most are cancerous and all are lethal and can have severe side effects due to repeated/prolonged exposure.

The rest is right on. Protect yourself and use the material wisely. Everyday we use things that pose far greater risks without even thinking about it.I disagree that they are all hazardous. I'm not a pro, but I use ordinary cooking corn meal to control fungus in my grass and garden. I dip my hand into the bag and sling it out. I breathe it in, too. Corn meal works by bringing in another disease to attack the first one. The corn meal disease attacks only the cell walls of the turf disease and nothing else. Corn meal and the disease are safe for mammals, birds, and fish. Texas A&M University at Stephenville did the research on this.

Against insects I use disease-causing nematodes. These little guys carry a bacteria that is lethal to insect larvae but not to mammals, birds, or fish. Fire ants, fleas and grubs are the main targets for beneficial nematodes.

I'm not saying that any of this is practical for y'all, but to say it is all dangerous is somewhat misleading.

GLAN
08-20-2003, 02:42 PM
I will use anything that has an EPA registration number.


I get a colonesterase (sp) test done every year at the end of the season. No problems.....

KenH
08-20-2003, 07:33 PM
Originally posted by GLAN
I will use anything that has an EPA registration number.


I get a colonesterase (sp) test done every year at the end of the season. No problems.....

You should also have this test done in the middle of the season to see where your levels are at. I believe there are damaging threshholds.

lordohturf
08-20-2003, 08:10 PM
Pesticides are as safe as the person using them. Once mixed properly in a dilution they are often less harmfull than taking an
aspirin or drinking a cup of coffee. This is no excuse for carelessness. Dress properly and take the proper safety precautions while mixing! This is where you are at your greatest exposure! Some of the low volume and boom applications also put you at risk.

If you practice an IPM approach to services which require pesticides, you use less and reduce your exposure.

P.S. Even though they are probably no riskier than any other product I always hated spraying Dursban, Orthene and Malathion, mainly because of the smell.

dan deutekom
08-20-2003, 10:42 PM
Not all insects are harmful and many are beneficial. Your nematodes quite often kill the beneficial larvae as well as the target pest. This is a risk.

The same is true for different types of fungus.

Don't be mislead by the fact that just because you can eat it, it won't cause any harm. Check out the LD50 of table salt. Or the research into the good fats and bad fats in your diet. How about alcohol poisoning. These are all natural products that can definitely be harmful. I am not against organics. They just arn't the panacea that they seem to be.

A very natural product for pest control is nicotine. Old time gardeners use to make their own spray by soaking their butts in water. Later it became a commercial spray. Even later it was banned as a pest control product because it was to dangerous!
Now the "organic books" suggest soaking tobacco in water to make a "safe" natural spray. It scares me that the naturalists use all sorts of "safe" sprays that have never been thoroughly tested and can be very dangerous. Using salt to kill weeds? I shudder to think what that does to the environment. Hot water steam machines to kill weeds. They use 2 gallons of gasoline, to run the pumps, 5 gallons of kerosene to run the burners and a man working for 4 hours to achieve 50% of the effectiveness of 1 man with a backpack sprayer and 3 ounces of roundup that takes 1/2 hour to spray. I ask which is better for the environment?

Organics can work very well in the correct circumstances. Unfortunately those circumstances are very rare in the real world.

I looked very closely at using a Beet extract for weed control last year. (used the same principal as corn gluten. After analyzing the facts as presented it just didn't make any sense. One spray of Killex would cost 60.00 in material and give me an 85% kill rate of weeds. The same results were not achievable with the beet extract. The manufacture claimed a 35% kill rate after 3 treatments. The cost 3600.00 in materials plus 3 times the labour. The interesting part is that they claimed the beet extract was 11 times less toxic than 24d. And it is.....in there pure forms. But when applied as directed at the recommended application rates the beet extract was actually much more toxic as applied because you need 40 times the amount of material applied 3 tiimes!

I am serious about my horticulture and I try new ways of doing things all the time. Mechanical, natural or synthetic. Some things work, some don't. But one thing I have learned is that it is better to be sceptical about everything and try it for yourself in the real world.

And I have found the organic movement to be highly overrated with very exaggerated claims.

So far in every side by side comparison that I have made the synthetics have outperformed the organics 90% of the time.

Also all of the synthetics have been well tested and are approved by the government. Most of the organics have not and the legality of using an unregesterd product must also be considered.

Dan

Grassmechanic
08-21-2003, 08:52 AM
Dan, you're right on. A balanced approach using all available means is the best way to go. And I always wondered what those farmers were doing with their coveralls down, sitting in buckets. Now I know!:D

GLAN
08-21-2003, 09:07 AM
Thanks Dan

I tried to say that yesterday, nicely written.

MrBarefoot
08-21-2003, 11:31 PM
Good thread.

I was told I had an "allergic reaction" to Acclaim. So I won't use it anymore.

Without diving into the details of the case, I am skeptical of the doctors conclusions.

Since there are other products that solve the problems I was using Acclaim on, I simply avoid Acclaim.

I used to work with some tree and shrub guys who worked with Lindane, and that is some repugnant stuff... I don't know if I could work with it.

Aside from those, as long as its registered in my state for use in lawn care applications, I am open to using it.

dan deutekom
08-22-2003, 06:07 PM
ummm.... Lindane
check what the ingredient is in the Head Lice shampoo that we use on our kids:dizzy:

MrBarefoot
08-22-2003, 06:12 PM
Originally posted by dan deutekom
ummm.... Lindane

Well, I know that the tree and shrub guys like to use it. I just don't like the smell.

I do know that some products that we use for turf applications sometimes find there way into other household products too. I can't think of any now but perhaps that would be a good thread also.

above all
08-23-2003, 02:31 PM
Hi Dchal, I ant to know more about the corn meal for fungicide thing. Wonder if it works on NRS in Kentucky bluegrass??? Anybody eles have any ideas for controling this funky disease??I agree in the IMS approach, but need more info. What about laundry detergent? What about Heritage fungicide? Anybody?From Above Alls buddy Bubba J

heritage
08-23-2003, 08:22 PM
here on the east coast we lower the soil ph to 5.8-6.0 and make 3 apps 4 gal per 1000 sq ft. with bayleton fungicide. 1st app goes down about one month before you notice symptoms of the disease then 2 more 30 days apart. Do Not lower mowing height during the activity period and minimize drought stress also.
this will help a great deal with managing necrotic ring spot.

Pete