View Full Version : Toro Hydros
09-26-2000, 11:53 AM
Need some advice about the hp on these units. Am thinking about putting a spreader on one. Is the 15hp adequate or should i go with the 20hp. You guys that are using them are candid in your opinions, I appreciate your help. Mike
09-26-2000, 12:15 PM
Just for fertilizing? 15hp is plenty.
15hp will cover all mowing decks up and including 44"
09-26-2000, 02:46 PM
Here is the perfect machine to fit your needs plus side discharge and bag 44" of turf when needed.
Only $1200 with bagging kit and gator blades.
Why do you need a hydro? Do you plan on fertilizing in the
09-26-2000, 03:56 PM
Let's all pitch in and but that 44 from Stone.lol...Seriously Stone, are all those pictures that you have taken? If so you have a talent. BTW I like that red charger.
09-26-2000, 10:29 PM
Thanks for the replies. To address the fert in the rain deal, no. But I do put on Milorganite after rain and in heavy dew. I also want to use it for what it was designed for. I like the fact that there is no shifting for forward and reverse with the toro. Trying to cover as many bases as I can here. I already have a riding spreader but it is a little large for some spots and not manueverable enough. One other thing, hard or soft bag for the Toro? I need to bag sometimes. Thanks again for the help. Mike
09-27-2000, 11:01 PM
I tried out my electric spreader on my Toro for the first time tonight. It worked really good other than it needs to be tilted back a little bit more. I used 2" angle iron to mount it and with 75 lbs of fertilizer in it the steel flexs abit so I will add another brace to strengthen it. We're taking pics of it tomorrow so when I get them developed I will scan them. I just used my stand up sulky on it and flew around the lawns. At speed it was a little bumpy in some spots but not real bad. Worked much better than the Yazoo on hills too. After I got home I got out the big Ransomes and played on the hill infront of my house,, good hill climber too. I can't wait to get it on the scoccer fields and the small golf course, it's about 4 acres.
09-27-2000, 11:17 PM
Morturf you don't put a fertilizer spreader on a new machine. The fertilizer dust will put a beating on the chassis and engine.
09-28-2000, 12:11 AM
Lawrence, "you" don't put a spreader on a new machine. I on the other hand will because Milorganite does not cause oxidation of metal. It is inert as far as causing decay.
I know you have a unique way of utilizing and customizing equipment. I too do this, I was just looking for some opinions as far as the hp requirements involved here. I am not putting the spreader on top of the mower frame. I intend to customize a frame for my needs and just use traction unit for the pushing power. The spreader I will use is a 220 pound capacity unit that has proven itself for my needs.
I am not in the mowing end of the business. I intend to use the mower in my own yard. I have been in this business long enough to know that I do not want a used unit that is someone elses headache. If this does not work out I will sell it and move on. The next step will be to build my own. I can take some ideas off the traction unit from the Toro and apply them to my own machine.
09-28-2000, 08:24 AM
I've really should photo/scan a pic of my ride-on spreader/sprayer.
I've built/seen 5 or 6 different combos of exactly the type of machine your endeavoring to construct. --All have their own ad/disadvantages.
09-28-2000, 08:45 AM
>The next step will be to build my own. I can take some ideas off the traction unit from the Toro and apply them to my own machine.
You will get real tired if you are going to change over to another carrier frame every time you want to mow or spread.
>The spreader I will use is a 220 pound capacity unit that has proven itself for my needs.
Sounds a little like overkill to me. A lesco electric truckster at $350 is a superior unit. I only add one bag at a time to my 100 lb jrco unit. I just place the bags at certain locations on the site by unloading them off the truck when I first arrive.
>I on the other hand will because Milorganite does not cause oxidation of metal. It is inert as far as causing decay.
It also is not cost effective and does not have enough K. I apply 30-2-5 100% scu at 30k/1k for a total of 1/2 on N per app for a materials cost of $.66 per 1k or $28.71/acre.
How much does sludge cost when applied at 1/2 lb of N per
1/k sq ft.? And how many extra bags do you have to transport and load into the spreader vs. 30-2-5?
09-28-2000, 11:02 AM
I don't really want to get into a pissing match about how much and what kind. We have used Milorganite for over 50 yrs. There is a huge benefit for this type of fert. I apply it at 20#'s/k. It will last for more than 3 months. But the biggest benefit is the intro of micros that are not in inorganics. There is also the 4% iron that is non-marking. The other benefit is this product rots thatch. Have over 30 lawns that are intesively managed for 50 yrs by us and have never been power raked or aerated. These lawns all have less than 1/2 inch of thatch. No matter what type of cost benefit you give matches that. The other thing is that there have never been any amendments to buffer Ph. the soil is still right at 6.6 - 6.9. The advantage of Milorganite is overwhelming. Sometimes cost is not the objective, results that show. When you can charge for it whats the difference. My clients are willing to pay a premium and I deliver. I don't want to offend you, i just know what works for me. I am willing to spend 2.5 to 3 dollars a 1000sf for great results over the long term. well enough of this. thanks for the help. mike
09-28-2000, 04:54 PM
Milorganite - sterilized poop from the Milwaukee MSD. Active ingredients= bratwurst, cheese, and of course beer.
The reason they dont call it anything else is that no other city has a diet like this. If it was called GreenBayganite it would be similar to glyphosate because the diet up here contains too much GB Packers bullsh%^.
Had to lighten it up a little guys - no offense... ;)
(just like Green Bay)
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