I need a tree recommendation... please

[Lawn-Scapes]

I would like to put a tree in front of my house and need help picking out the perfect one. Maximum canopy spread of 12' and I'd like the lowest limbs to be no lower than 6'.

Am I asking for too much?

[Grassmechanic]

Yeah, you're limiting yourself a bit, but one tree that I can think of off the top of my head is a flowering crabapple, "Red Baron". Grows nice and tight, has deep pink, almost red flowers, and you'll be able to trim up the lower branches as it grows without affecting it's shape.

Mike

[Lawn-Scapes]

Hey Mike.. Thanks for the suggestion. Does it bare fruit? I'd rather not deal with picking up after it. :(

[Grassmechanic]

Yes, they bear fruit. Fruit is very small (about size of a nickel), hangs on for along time. The birds usually eat it before it falls. I don't recall seeing any fruit laying on the ground underneath any that I've seen. Relatively clean tree for a flowering crabapple.

Mike

[ElephantNest]

Crepe Myrtle, there are a few kinds that don't get too large.

[lugnut#6]

god i luv dem crype mertels...but he is in maryland,will the live up there?
how about a japanese cherrie tree?
or maybe cherry laurel?
bradford pear?
ummm......

[KenH]

The perfect 'front 'yard' speciman tree....Year round interest, disease/insect resistant..........make sure it grows in your zone....... Paperbark Maple, Acer griseum.

[NCSULandscaper]

How about a nice red jap. maple, dogwood, some type of cherry, crepe myrtle, loquat, cherry-laurel, redbud, Goldenchain tree, saucer magnolia, star magnolia, purple leaf plum are just a few choices.

[Grassmechanic]

Originally posted by Lawn-Scapes
Maximum canopy spread of 12'

While those are all nice trees, they will, unfortunately, exceed his size requirements at maturity.

Mike

[KenH]

Originally posted by Grassmechanic
While those are all nice trees, they will, unfortunately, exceed his size requirements at maturity.

Mike

According to Dirr....Paperbark is 20-30' tall, spread 1/2 that of height....smaller under cultivation.;) :p

[lugnut#6]

crepe myrtles can be kept to that size just cut em back in the winter.my personal favorite is "biloxi pink".cause i live in biloxi..well just outside of biloxi.

[mdvaden]

By "spread" of 12', did you mean the width? That would be the spread generally.

Or do you mean 12' high also?

You have almost no alternatives if you don't want to top.

It may have taken 50 years, but even Dwarf Laceleaf Japanese Maples get over 10' tall. I've pruned one before that was 3 to 4 feet over the top of my 10' orchard ladder.

If you can go over 12' high, that opens up a whole new arena of ideas.

[vardener]

I would go with the maple. It should do fine in MD. Stay away from the pears. I have seen too many fall apart.

Off topic a bit... mdvaden, How do you like your orchard ladder? Where did you pick it up? I have seen them around, and I would love to see one up close.

[philk17088]

try an Amelanchier canandensis, service berry. they get a beautiful white flower in spring and the fruit attracts song birds but is not messy. It is a native tree and comes in single stem or clump form.

[gene gls]

Check this site out:www.daytonnursery.com and do a serch in their site for " trees under 15' "

Gene

[mdvaden]

For Vardener on the orchard ladder - There's nothing like it. Three legs stablize in no time.

Do better than me - read the label within the rails if you get one. Leg too far out - the top buckles left or right. Leg too far in - left or right legs slip and ladder twists. But there is a lot of angle-freedom between too far out or in. The center leg insertinto a canopy, something that can't be done with 4 legger.

2' increments starting at 6' to 16'. I would not recommend over 12'. If one ladder - 10 is prime if you have a pole pruner.

Portland is a big city, yet has agriculture around. Farm supply places carry them. Arborist suppliers have them. Almost every big city has an arborist shop. In Oregon, at least one big nursery - Teufel - has them. If they can be shipped - I think Tallman Ladders of Hood River, Oregon manufactures most of the one's sold out here. I've had mine (10') for 15 years of heavy use without one rivet, screw or hinge coming loose. It was $120 in 1988, maybe $160 now. Just got a 6' one for helper in small fruit trees.

Its not in the manufacturer specs - but I attached an "eye" about 1/3 up on my ladder single leg, and put an eye 1/2 up on a ladder rung. I use a 1/16" aircraft cable with 2 dog leash style hooks to secure the front leg when its on slick ground or hardtop. The reason I did not put the eye 1/2 way up the front leg, is so it doesn't crease and fold the front leg in the center.

The directions indicate the design is intended for ground. Always stomp weight on the left and right to "seat" the legs. About 1/3 up, I lean my weight into the rungs to seat the front leg.