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Live4Mowin'
07-04-2003, 09:26 PM
I have nut grass spreading rapidly throughout one of my yards. :eek: Any solutions for getting rid of it? Should I use weed-b-gon or something of that sort?:confused:

Turfdude
07-04-2003, 09:44 PM
This should be & probably has been on the fert. forum.
Answer is MANAGE

T.E.
07-04-2003, 09:46 PM
Do you have a liscence? Weed B Gone will not touch it. Use something like manage herbicide from lesco..... If you are liscened. :)

Live4Mowin'
07-04-2003, 09:50 PM
i dont have a license:(

EJK2352
07-05-2003, 12:16 AM
No license??? Then don't do any lawn apps.!!!! Sub it out or get licensed.

yardmonkey
07-05-2003, 02:12 PM
Purple Nutsedge and Yellow Nutsedge are some of the worst weeds to deal with. If there are only a few dozen, you should just pull them, though you have to do this many times and do it often - it will keep coming back from the tuber even if you pull up the roots. Eventually they will give up. I have seen lawns so full of nutsedge that there would be no way to pull it.

Nutsedge is an indicator weed - it indicates poor drainage. You will usually see problems with it in clay soils where there is too much water. Cutting down on irrigation can help.

T.E.
07-05-2003, 03:19 PM
Informative post Yardmonkey. You learn something everyday. I knew that it liked water,but never gave it much thought. I have several lawns with that in it (new lawns) so I might be able to sell aeration to them :D

Green Pastures
07-05-2003, 11:52 PM
Manage

yardmonkey
07-06-2003, 02:13 AM
T.E. -

Just speculating, but I would doubt that aeration alone would cause the nutsedge to disappear. To improve drainage of clay soil might require tilling in a lot of compost. Or a less radical (and more long-term) step might be to topdress with compost (maybe many times) and aerate, perhaps gypsum would be helpful. In most cases it would be pretty much impractical to try to change the soil that much. But that is one viscious weed. I actually don't use any chemcals and just followed this post over here from the LawnCare forum where it originated. So just offering some alternatives. There is a chemical (Manage) that is made just for nutgrass (nutsedge) and may be the only chemical to work on it in a lawn. I have heard that even the application of this chemical is not a one-time sure shot solution.

Most weeds really do indicate some type of condition, which may be a condition that should be changed. For instance, clover may indicate a lack of nitrogen. (Lambsquarters indicates good, rich soil)

Have mainly noticed nutsedge in heavy clay soils with irrigation. It can spread like crazy by underground rhizomes. One lawn I know of is totally full of it and is not irrigated (also usually mowed too low). I'm guessing it grows and spreads a lot with lots of rain and slows down but hangs on through drought. Like crabgrass, high mowing height can help to suppress it by shading it out. With both weeds, this is more effective as a prevention than a cure.

Ric
07-06-2003, 05:01 PM
Nut-sedge is a two to three year process to get rid of. Manage for yellow and Image for purple. Pennet pre-emerge is a must. Hit it often and hard.

yardmonkey
07-07-2003, 02:03 AM
Just to throw this in .....

Anyone wanting to really learn to ID a lot of weeds fast (especially if you live in the south) - there is a totally excellent book called Weeds of Southern Turfgrass. It was put out by a university in Florida but maybe now by a universtiy in Georgia -
anyway do a google search and you might find how to order it. Full color pictures of lots of lawn weeds - sorts out yellow nutsedge and purple nutsedge as well as lots of other sedges - globe sedge looks similar but does not have the tubers. The easiest way to ID most grassy weeds is by the seedheads. I'm sure there are lots of good websites for weed ID, but I mainly use books. Actually the best way to ID weeds is have someone point them out. Then you can look them up in the books. Weeds of the West is awesome. And Ortho's Controlling Weeds is very good for ID and general info. And Rodale has an organically oriented one also called Controlling Weeds - lots of good photos. Since I'm on a roll - Weeds Control Without Poisons by Charles Walters is classic- has lots of info on what specific weeds indicate. And to get really esoteric - Weeds - Guardians of the Soil by Joseph Cocannnouer (1954).

I suspect this is a really good book, but haven't been able to convince myself to spend the $95 yet:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1575041421/