View Full Version : Wall Quotes
10-03-2000, 07:50 AM
I am quoting a couple of retaining walls for a customer. I plan on using Keystone block ($6 each my cost). Just wondered how you all would quote. I need to excavate the current rip rap slope, remove a wooden wall that is 4' long install the new wall and backfill with good drainage stone. The yard will slope away from the back of the wall so would you put a tile behind the wall or not?
Any walls that we do we price per sq. ft.( right now going rate is $35) now depending on the amount of excavation and removals you should be in the $45 to $55 per sq ft. Now when I say Sq. Ft. I mean face feet of wall including cap and base courses
10-04-2000, 08:44 AM
That is the answer I was looking for. What part of the country are you located in? I am in West Central Indiana and may have to adjust my figures. I was going to quote sq. ft. of wall face just as you suggested. What is your opinion on the drain tile for this application? The wall will be 60" tall and approximately 12-15' long.
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[Edited by paul on 10-05-2000 at 12:04 AM]
10-04-2000, 09:16 PM
4" corrugated perforated pipe in a sock daylighted where the face of the wall meets grade would be appropriate.
<in a sock daylighted> You lost me on that one. What's that mean? Thanks.
10-07-2000, 07:29 PM
For your drain 'tile' behind the wall - In the seminars I've attended that Versa-Lok hosts, to gather water and deposit it outside the wall, you should have good drainage stone like you mention, and at grade level behind the wall (not at the bottom of the wall, which will be under grade), you should use the 4" corrugated, perforated pipe. It's the black stuff you can buy in 10' lengths or rolls as big as 500'.
To prevent the perforations or slits from clogging up due to any silt that might collect there, use the kind that is covered in a 'sock', a mesh that covers the pipe. Any silt will get trapped in the mesh and leave the perforations open to collect water. Then place a 'T' and extend some solid pipe out the face of the wall (daylighting) to drain onto the grade below. You'll have to either stagger the joints on the block or cut a block to allow the pipe to go through. I prefer cutting a block - it keeps the joints consistent in the wall.
(I haven't found but have seen some nifty grate-looking things to dress up the part of the block - does anyone know where I could find those. Looks a lot better than a big black cap with holes in it.)
Just make sure you daylight the pipe in a place that will allow the water to drain away from the wall or any other structures.
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