View Full Version : So sorry...
10-09-2000, 01:01 PM
I just thought Id take a minute to tell you all how sorry I am about your vehicles, for you guys on the eastern half of the states.. Every other post I read here is "rust on frame/chassis/etc" and if there is one thing I hate its rust. Especially on something like a FRAME! I am on my second '77 pickup and they both have had immaculate southern california frames.. if you scraped about 1/8" of road grime off, you'd find like-new metal.. Even surface rust is rare. (body sheet metal is a different story)
One of my last vehicles, at 30 years old (1970 El Camino) had just as nice a frame. The guy I sold it to said he put the car on a lift, pressure washed it, and it too was like new.. had the original undercoating on it, he didnt have to do anything but spray some new undercoating on and its good to go for another 30 years. Heck even the floor panels were in honest to god perfect shape, and beleive me that car was not a garage queen all its life.
Well before I convince anymore of you to move to so-cal, id just like to say, Im sorry :) My vehicles are like a part of me, and I could not stand to see them rust away.. I'll put up with the stringent smog laws here in Calif. any day, if it means not dealing with the road salts and whatever else causes that orange-red cancer... good day all
10-09-2000, 04:04 PM
We might have rust on our chassis, but at least we don't have to worry about our state falling off the continent during an earthquake. Ha ha ha
just kidding,.... I think
10-09-2000, 07:25 PM
Mike,I am not sure what board your reading but I don't see any postings about rusty frames,I think I'll go out to the garage and check mine for any rust because i live on the east coast.Hows your paint doing with all those sun rays?
10-09-2000, 09:48 PM
I think he's referrring to JCurtis posting about the rusty frame on the dually he is buying.
And you are right, his underbody and frame may be clean and rust free, but the topcoat on the body must take a beating instead.
10-11-2000, 12:53 AM
No rust on my frame, just shiny paint http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/rolling_frt.jpg
10-11-2000, 01:33 PM
Hey captain kaaaaaaaaaaoooosssssssssss..
where are you located, i got a few frames i want to clean up. Man,you make them look sooooooo pretty...
Seriously where are you from.
10-11-2000, 10:58 PM
CaptKaos is from Alabama.
10-12-2000, 03:44 AM
Thanks JCurtis for the compliments. Not to bad for an outside paintjob. I would be a long drive from Connecticut just for a paint job, but I will pencil you in if you want. ;)
Like Chuck said, I am in Birmingham, Alabama. I might be painting another frame in the next month also. Getting a SWB frame delivered to the house tomorrow. :)
10-12-2000, 11:04 AM
Good to see you at this forum Chris! I know you've been registered here a while....
For those of you who haven't looked yet, Capt Kaos (Chris) has some great pics on his website.
10-12-2000, 11:20 AM
OK, OK, Ok...
So I didn't check out your page before I opened my mouth.
S*** happens! and i don't mean what you think I mean...
Seriously, it does look good for an outside job. what paint material did you use? POR15?
I just made an offer to the owner of the dually in question, waiting to hear from him . if I get it, first plan is to power wash the entire frame. Its a Cab and Chassis , so there isn't a bed to worry about.
I may install new springs front and rear ( possibly a 4 inch lift)
I will also have to scrape & paint the plow and spreader. All in all it shouldn't be too bad.
Its actually a 1986 GMC K3500 Sierr. I didn't see the grill before yesterday. It has a 350 automatic.
as well as a Air-Flo stainless steel spreader and a fisher plow with snow foil.
Its definitely a work truck, but if I get it, its gonna be a clean sharp when i am done with it.
10-12-2000, 10:20 PM
Chuck has some really nifty toxic paint you should try.....
10-12-2000, 11:36 PM
You know there are more uses for that toxic paint then I even could have imagined,its almost better than duct tape.
Oh no! Is the so called "wit" leaking into the other forums now. ;)
10-13-2000, 04:42 PM
The frame was sandblasted and then painted with POR15, then after about 30 or so minutes of drying time I top coated it with Gloss Black enamel. Reason: POR15 is UV sensative.
Well for a while there I couldn't find the forum. The link on you page didn't work the couple of times I checked it, so I gave up. The links I had were dircectly to the Chevy section and they became bogus. Plus the fact that I have changed jobs 3 times, bought a house and 3 other trucks since then, I have been busy. :D I am finally in a job I can play on the 'net at night and work on the trucks during the day, so I will be sticking my head here often. Thanks for the thumbs up on the website. I appreciate it. I am working on a page that has pics of the year model differences. Not sure when I will get it up completely, but it will be sooner now than before.
What is the story on the "toxic" paint?
10-14-2000, 02:40 AM
What my hecklers, errr ummm, fan club is talking about, is Master Coat silver. Maybe you've heard it mentioned on other forums. It's MCU, Moisture Cured Urethane. It's sold at swap meets all over. They (my fans) call it "toxic paint" because it has isocyanates in it. Paint stripper won't remove it, brake fluid won't soften it, battery acid can't even dull it, air craft stripper will soften it after soaking for 12 hours+, it's high temp proof up to 600 degrees, comes in a clear version that can be tinted with any color pigmnents you want, fuel proof..... It can seal pinholes in gas tanks, you can pour it into leaky windshield frames, you can paint cardboard with it to waterproof it permanently.... You have to put a piece of plastic between the lid and the can when sealing it up, or the lid will be "welded" on permanently. It passes a 16 day salt spray test easily. It really is good paint. You have to wear rubber gloves, and a respirator when applying it. You can brush it or spray it. The first coat of silver should be brushed on, the be sure of good coverage. Then spray away!
The silver is a primer that can be applied over rust. All you have to do is wire brush loose scale. Sandblasting is best though. It is a high build finish, so it will fill pits and dimples in a chassis nicely. It contains aluminum, and you can actually "scrape" it from the bottom of the can, and spread it as a filler.
It also comes in chasis black. The clear is a good top coat, but like I said it can also be tinted. It's the paint we used on the 4wd 77 Monte Carlo on my pages. Here's the chassis all done in black, with 2 clear coats on it.
The red is cheap Krylon, but it has 3 clear coats on it.
I'll tell ya, try to share a great product, and NEVER hear the end of it. ;)
~Chuck Smith a.k.a "Toxic Paint Guy"
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