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woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:03 AM
Heres a few shots of my organic greens...

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:04 AM
and another...

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:11 AM
and another...

trying 2b organic
10-02-2003, 12:15 AM
Amazing !! they look great. How did you manage to have no weeds without using pesticides?

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:15 AM
this one is struggling, but getting there..

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:28 AM
Originally posted by trying 2b organic
Amazing !! they look great. How did you manage to have no weeds without using pesticides?

They are not weed free...but the ever thickening bent grass is choking out the weeds slowly. The frost should kill off the annnual weeds. Some greens are infested with clover and black medic, which are really persistent. i spent a lot of time hand pulling weeds this season...not much fun, but persistence will pay off in the long run...

I overseeded all the greens two weeks ago, and just saw some sprouts coming up today...once that bent takes over there will be no room for weeds.

Green in Idaho
10-02-2003, 12:34 AM
Woodycrest, is that course designed for dwarfs?

What up with the short pins?

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:39 AM
Green,

good one..hee hee

This course is a pitch and putt, holes range from 60 yards to 120 yards...greens range from 600sqft to about 1700 sqft. It is a private course on a local guys land. He chose the pins. I intend on picking up some 'real' cups and flags soon.

I look after another course about the same size too.

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:43 AM
might as well post all 9 holes..

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:45 AM
lots of annual weeds on this one..

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:48 AM
this green is slow to improve, but getting there..

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:51 AM
the eighth...

woodycrest
10-02-2003, 12:53 AM
last one..

Ric
10-02-2003, 02:34 AM
woodycrest


I will have to admit your greens look almost as good as the traditional greens of Europe.

lbmd1
10-02-2003, 07:49 AM
Woody, the greens look great! One of the local 18 hole golf courses here is heavily into organic care of their course. The University of New Hampshire as well as the owner of North Country Organics are also involved with the ongoing care\ experiment. The name of his book is Ecological Golf Course Management by Paul Sachs. I played there quite a few times and was pretty impressed by the results. Have to say though that there were so many worm castings on the ground, it made for rough putting that day! Could not tell the difference at all from any other surrounding golf courses at all in terms of appearance.

Mike

Cheryl
10-02-2003, 09:39 AM
Hey Ric,

Do you need a license, or consultations with your CPO if you are not using dangerous chemicals? When were you in Europe? during one of the WWs? Which one the first one?

Green in Idaho
10-02-2003, 01:19 PM
Mike that's good info about the book.

How about starting a new thread on great book resources for those wanting to go organic????

Dchall_San_Antonio
10-03-2003, 02:53 AM
Just for contrast and to show what woodycrest is up against in the winter, I'll ask him to post a picture of the course from last winter. Call me a southerner, but I'm just impressed he gets grass at all :dizzy:

woodycrest
10-03-2003, 08:36 AM
got your rubber boots handy?

woodycrest
10-03-2003, 08:40 AM
and another...

SWD
10-03-2003, 08:41 AM
Running a golf course on all organics would be a neat trick. I have used a mixed program successfully on a course which had an average of 64,000 rounds per year.
The one problem I ran into time and time again was that organic response was too slow and had to use synthetics to ease stress. An additional problem was most organic granulars I used, the amount necessary was interfering with play conditions on the course.

woodycrest
10-03-2003, 09:16 AM
i used cracked corn, and it definately made putting a challenge:dizzy:

The other problem as mentioned earlier is the worm castings. The interesting thing i have found is that there are more worm castings on the 'bad' areas of the greens, and very few on the good areas. Its like the worms know where the soil needs help:confused:
THe worm castings appear during the overnight, so if the greens are cut in the early morning everyday, the castings are rolled flat by the greensmower. One could almost say that the worms topdress the greens for me.

THe problem with the corn on the greens could be solved by using fine ground corn meal instead of cracked.

Also consider the fact that these greens have no irrigation. If the corn is kept moist it decays alot faster. My ultimate goal is to get the greens in shape so they can survive and remain green during dry periods. Realistically all they really require is watering once a week, i could do that with a simple garden hose.

Another important thing is to keep the size of the course in perspective. I can cut the whole course(greens, rough and fairways) in about 5 hours. Trimming i can do in about 45 minutes.
I cut the fairways every 5 days or so, the greens i cut every other day, and the rough gets cut as needed.

The course is free to play(although there is a 'donation box'). So i dont get any complaints about course conditions. The course is getting better every season, so in the long run it can only get better.

It takes about 30 minutes to play a round, and is quite challenging. Water is 'in play' on almost every hole...there are all kinds of balls at the bottom of the ponds.

rains
12-03-2003, 11:31 PM
I built the green early October this year and it's about 1 inch tall but I haven't cut the grass yet because of wet weather in Seattle. Anyway, I'm seeing brown spots all over the yard. As you can see in the picture, I sprayed cracked corn 10 days ago that hoping to cure this problem, but I'm not sure it will do it or not.
Could you guys help me? Thanks.

timturf
12-06-2003, 11:28 AM
don't think crack corn will help, especially after cisease appeared! might be pink snow mold

Dchall_San_Antonio
12-11-2003, 02:11 PM
The finer you can get your corn ground the faster the response will be. You need more surface area to grow more Trichoderma fungus. The finer the grind the more surface area. The increase in surface area from fine grinding is geometric in proportion to the particle size reduction.

I think what I just said is to use corn flour if you can find it, corn meal if you can't, and corn chops as a last resort. Whole corn kernels will give you a field of corn. Of course you will be continually mowing it down, but still, you don't want corn plants growing in your greens, not even short plants.