Blade width preference

[Greenman2ooo]

I was wondering what width blade you would prefer. Is 7.5' too small or would I be happy with that. Would an 8 or 8.5 be better for certain situations??? Would an 8 or 8.5 be too wide for residential drives and parking spaces? I hear 7.5' are the dealers best seller, but he says that is because so many guys with 1/2 tons use them. I do know he told me Western recommends up to a 9 foot plow for my truck.

I'm guessing the bulk of its use will be in parking lots slightly less than one acre in size, but also in wide open areas. I don't want to sacrifice mobility and my ability to clear parking spaces between cars. Would my vehicle become more cumbersome or more productive with an 8.5 foot blade?

Another dealer says "everyone" uses 7.5' and he has relatives that plow, etc.

Please, no input on brand preference or styles, strictly blade width. :p

[GeoffDiamond]

It depends on the brand and model of the truck.

1/2 tons, any brand, 7.5 is a good fit, however some brands require a 7'

3/4 ton chevy, gmc, dodge, all can use a 7.5 up to a 9 (depending on if its a heavy or light duty 3/4 ton)

Ford 3/4 ton heavy duties, they don't make an ld any more. skip the 8, and get an 8.5 or 9, the turning radius on these trucks is much larger than it's competiors. I know guys with chevy HD 3/4 tons that use a 7.5 blade. They do it because they can push like 8" of snow at a time with out a problem, try moving 8" with a 9' foot, no 3/4 ton truck will like it, but they will (you will just have little controll).

1 ton trucks any brand, go with a 9', or an 8.5' v-plow.

You need an F 450 or 550 to take the 9.5 v-plow, i can't really see useing a 10' streight blade with a F 550. It can be done, however i don't think enough is gained with the increased blade size. Like i have said before a F 550 ( I will say the same thing about GMC/Chevy's F 550 copy cat, when it comes out), is an F 350 on steriods, you have increased gvw, but you waven't widened the trucks stance. The wide truck i think will help you controll the 10' blade. I would recomend a HD 9' on a F 550, gives you a solid blade, but allows the truck to move more snow, however the truck is not strained or overloaded.


Geoff

[SLC1]

For a 3/4 ton pickup I would get 8.5' plow. As for a 1 ton dually or pickup I would get a 9'. These are for straight blades. I think wider is better, a personal feeling, I have 9' blades on all my trucks and have not been unable to a single place because it was to large. Sometimes while driving down a busy main road with the plow it can feel a little to big but for the most part it is fine on the trucks. I used to run all 8' plows until I tried a 9' blade, you can see a significant increase in productivity over the 8'. Just my two cents.

[Alan]

Geoff,, with all due respect for your experience and opinions I don't know where you come up with some of the things you comment about.

>> I know guys with chevy HD 3/4 tons that use a 7.5 blade. They do it because they can push like 8" of snow at a time with out a problem, try moving 8" with a 9' foot, no 3/4 ton truck will like it, but they will (you will just have little controll).<<

Maybe your snow is different than ours, but I have never had much problem moving snow with the 8' blades we run. And those have been on a K1500, a K2500 and two S-10s. The only caveat to that is the one time we had 2-3" of wet snow/sleet and it had frozen over on top, nothing we had could have pushed straight through that. And that same storm it was only the downpressure on the Sno-Ways that allowed us to clean to pavement. The guy in the next lot was only able to plane the high spots with his Fishers.

As far as 1/2 vs 3/4 ton, other than the heavier suspension allowing you to carry a heavier blade what is the magic of plowing with a 3/4? Weight is virtually the same, drivetrain (other than axles) is the same so what's the big advantage? We didn't see any difference when we moved up other than more available horsepower, we had traded up from 305 to 350, same axle ratios though.

Last April we got 14" of moderately wet snow. It came fast enough that it was all on the ground by the time we were half way around the route. I started pushing with the 2500 and later swapped to one of the S trucks. Granted the S took more throttle but I didn't feel I was ever having trouble pushing.

Another guy here is running a 9' Sno-Way on an older F-150 short box. He doesn't seem to have much trouble with that either.

As far as control, I don't see much difference either, although I know I can turn into a full blade easier with the 2500, but not enough to make it an issue.

[GeoffDiamond]

Alan, i am not running the 7.5' blade on my 3/4 tons. I run 8.5' on 3/4. I know people that run 7.5' those were some of the reasons they gave me, i can't help it that they run 7.5' (maybe they buy them because they are cheaper). I think turing a truck is a major isshue, if you can't turn a truck with a fully loaded blade, then there is a problem, too much snow or too much blade. These are the reasons that i think these people run 7.5' blades. They sleep in and don't start plowing to like 7 am, and the snow has changed to rain, and it is proabably at it heavest point. Now the guys that do this aren't major plow contractors. One guy uses a 7.4 because when he leased his first truck it came with a 7.5, 2 years later he moved up to a 3/4 ton for towing, and kept the same 7.5 plow (hopefully this makes everything more clear. One thing i will add is, that most guys i see and know run an 8 or 8.5 with a 3/4 ton.

There is a big difference between plowing with a 3/4 tons and half tons, i can go on for days.

Alan is ya think i am crazy, fine, i don't care. Like i said these are the things i have heard, and again the smallest blade i have is an 8' (yard truck) all front line trucks are 8.5 and up. All i was saying is that you can use a 7.5' on a 3/4 ton unless it's a Ford, the advantages are when you get a mix storm the truck will perform better because of the smaller blade (these mix storms are common in maine).


Geoff

[diggerman]

Blade width really depends on the snow you get,Here in Iowa there relly is no diffrence between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck.I have both and have never noticed the diff in amount of snow moved and I have 9ftrs on both.Maybe,maybe if you were moving 10inches everytime you go out you might see a diffrence but I have moved 10" with both without a noticable diffrence.

[GeoffDiamond]

Another thing to consider is the age of the truck. I used to have a 9' fisher on a 88 GMC 1500, the truck plowed ok but had trouble turning, and in deep snow ( an 8 or 7.5 would have been a better choice). When i had the plow installed, both my dad and the fisher dealer looked at me like i was crazy. That was my first GM product, also one of my first things i bought for the company, with out my dad's approvel. I will admit the truck took a beating, when it was traded in 95, it had 160K of hard miles (it had the 4.3? v6 in it, and a 5 speed).

Back in the early 80s we ran 8' on 1/2 tons all the time. However, how many of you would think about putting a 8' or 9' plow on a brand new 1/2 ton? Or could you find a dealer to install it?

Geoff

[Alan]

>>There is a big difference between plowing with a 3/4 tons and half tons, i can go on for days<<

Please do, it escapes me and I might be able to learn something

[GeoffDiamond]

well days proably isn't the best choice of words however, this is what you will get.

All Brands. Heaver Frame, to support the plow, as well as transfer stress better.

Heavier Transmissions. I believe there is a big difference in trans between 1/2 ton and 3/4 for GM.

Larger engines, the option of disiel.

Increased payload, allows for v-box spreaders.

Heavier front end drive trains. I am sure of this for Ford, not quite so sure on GM and Dodge.

Different rear ends, which may provide better performance.

For Ford and ( i am not sure about GM, i know dodge is coil) front leaf springs, which allows for a better front suspension platform (easier to add leafs, ect for a heavier front end)

Often a bigger radiator, provieds better cooling, for the engine.

Higher ground clearance, may avoid getting stuck in some cases.

Not as big as an isshue now. However the old 96 and older Ford 150s, had 15" tires, all 3/4 tons and up had 16"

I also believe that the 3/4 ton provides a bigger alternator, because of the large engine combinations allowed.

Thats all i can think of right now. However i am comparing new trucks.

Also i am saying that for the commercial plower a 3/4 ton is a better platform. For a home owner, a 1/2 or even a compact truck if fine if you can get a plow for it.



Geoff

[John DiMartino]

Alan,you really dont think there is any difference in plowing with a 3/4?My 3/4 GMC handles the weight so much better than the 1500 GMC it was on before.I know my 1500 sb 4x4 weighed 4470 empty,the 2500 HD 4x4 with a 350 weighed 5400-thats a lot of weight in my opinion.I can put my v-box in the 3/4 and load it up.The 1500 wouldnt stop if i tried that,not to mention it would be dragging the rear bumper in the snow-making a cheap pull plow out of the bumper.I plow with my S10 and love it,but if your going to get a FS-after owning them i recommend the 2500 LD as the minimum for plowing if you havent already bought atruck.I know most guys including myself and Geoff,run heavy Fisher,Western or Diamond plows,maybe your light Sno way is fine on a 1500-i know the Minute mount was strain on my 1500 Z71,and a breeze on the 2500.Other than this plowing is the same for me,i still like the S10 the best anyway,its like a slotcar and pushes amazingly well for a little truck.

[Snow Pro]

Diggerman-

Let me know next time you get 10". I want to see your 1/2 tons push that with a 9' blade. Around here they won't even install anything larger than a 7 1/2 on a 1/2 ton. You must get a lot of dry powder.

[Snow Pro]

Greenman2000 -

I have a suggestion that you can lose with. Get a 7 1/2, an 8 1/2 and a 9 1/2 blade all for the same truck. I'm talking about Pro-Wings. Get a 7 1/2' blade installed with wings. The wings will add about $200 to the cost but will pay for themselves the first time out. Each side adds 1' extra plowing width. You can use one, both or none, depending on where you are. In an open lot you double your productivity going from 7 1/2 to 9 1/2'.

Also, make sure your cistomers understand that you will not ever under any circumstances plow a single parking space in between 2 cars. We need a minimum of 2 spaces. Some guys I know won't plow less than 3 spaces together.

Do you other guys out there have any minimums?

[Chuck Smith]

We have a diner that's open 24 hours, and gets busy when it snows. We leave a stack of cones by the door, and the manager has someone come out and put a cone in a space when a car leaves. The manager, or owner also watches the parking lot, and tells people where to <B>not</B> park. We do a section at a time there. People naturally tend to park in the spaces that are cleared already anyway. It's the spaces right out front that we use the cones for. People don't want to have to walk far to get in, but we need to get the spaces cleared. Especially since they get used 10X more than the rest.

~Chuck

[Lazer]

Greenman,

If undecided, get an 8'.

Depending on brand, some 8' are quite a bit heavier-duty than 7 & 7.5.

They're wide enough (angled) to clear a path in front of all tires, even when turning slightly.

Without know what you're plowing and what you're mounting it on, 8' is most always a safe bet.

Unless you're plowing confined areas, I'd advise against a 7.5'.

[Greenman2ooo]

Lazer-

I will be mounting it on a 1995 F250 HD. The truck is rated for up to a 9 foot Western plow. Yes, my front gvwr is heavy enough for a 9'on a 3/4 ton, due to the higher ratings of the HD. Would the 8.5' be much more productive??? I just wondered why you recommend the 8' over the 8.5'? I'd rather not push it (it being my front end) to the max with a 9 footer, but maybe an 8.5'?

What will be plowed with the vehicle? My accounts will consist of commercial lots-- most of which are 3/4 acre or so, less than 1/2 mile of private road, and a couple of 2-4 acre lots. Not all of the above deals are sealed, but past experience tells me I will get a good percentage of what I have bid. I also expect to pick up some driveways along the private drives. All driveways are short, slightly rectangular drives of no more than 40-50' long and ~20' wide.

From everything I'm hearing, my truck shouldn't have trouble in all but the heaviest snows, even with a 9'. It's kind of like spring mowing. When you are in the heavy, wet stuff you have to slow down and take less than a full swath at a time.

I'd hate to give up any productivity when the extra 6" of blade only cost $65.

By the way, thank you all for being so helpful. I have learned so much from others in such a short time that people sometimes mistake me for someone who knows what he is doing. :)

[Edited by Greenman2ooo on 10-17-2000 at 04:05 PM]

[diggerman]

All the things that you are showing as diffrences between the 1/2 ans 3/4 ton are not capability issues because engine power is no diffrent between the two.Weight capability was brought up but I do not belive I said any thing about putting a sander in a half ton, and the addition of extra weight for plowing should be done with care because of transmission and brake wear on either truck.And no matter what you do traction is the ultimate limiting factor,no matter how much power you have you will run out of traction first.I have never stalled out a truck due to lack of power unless you are bucking pile and if one of my guy gets caught bucking piles he's gone.So other than a little extra carring capability and what you deem to be a durability issue the two trucks will push the same.

[cat320]

I think and 8' is just the right size for most applications but for residential a smaller blade would be better butt for commercial i would stick with the 8 and up sizes.

[GeoffDiamond]

I said it before and will say it again. On a Ford 3/4 ton get at least an 8.5, i have a lot of ford trucks. If you are going to plow lighter accumulations, ie 4 to 5" at a time, the 9' should be fine. I used to plow with a 9' on a 97 HD 3/4 ton with no problem (unless you plowed like 10" of very wet snow). If you don't want to worry about controll, power, ect get the 8.5, however you should be fine with a 9'.

Geoff

[SLC1]

I agree with Geoff, I would get at least the 8.5' or 9' I think the productivity gained with the extra 6" is a lot. And like you said, if it is heavy wet snow then you just go slower. I don't know anyone who waits until there is 10" of snow out there to plow. On most of my accounts we are out with the first inch of snow on the ground. So I would not worry about the truck not being able to handle it.

[plowking35]

JUST GET THE MVP OR FISHER 8.5 V PLOW AND BE DONE WITH IT. IT WILL MORTE PRODUSTIVE THAN A 15' STRAIGHT PLOW.
Pleasse we all know what plow is the most effeciant, it is a v plow.
Any plow, in 4+ inches very quickly becomes 1/2 of what the width is once a winrow is formed. With a v plow, in the scoop position, I am still 7'10" or more, and I have very little spillage. Every pass is the same. Get the v plow and you wont regret it.
Dino
P.S.If I was to purchase a straight blade for that truck, I would get the 8.5'But I wouldnt cause the v plow rocks all commers
Bigger is always better.

[Greenman2ooo]

Dino-

I do have the money for the MVP, but I am a beginner and wonder if it will be that much tougher for me to get used to the V-plow.

Also, how much more production would I get from the V? If I could do, say 25% more work in the same amount of time, obviously I'd break my arm handing over the extra $1000. Unlike other aspects of my business, I am VERY limited as to how much time I can sell. I can do lawn maintenance all week long during the summer months. If I was plowing all week long due to the previous storm.... Well, you get the picture, everyone needs their snow removed at the same time, essentially.

I hear guys who don't own V's say since they have more parts, they are more prone to breaking down. Do you find this to be true? In your experience, how many times might a plow like that need to be serviced over the course of a season? Hopefully, rarely if it is taken proper care of?

Also, would a V still be appropriate for plowing private roads? My understanding is they can be set to work exactly like a straight blade as well.

I see those of you who own them sure like them a lot. I'm just wondering if the $1000 difference is worth it for me. Let me know what sells you guys on these plows and I could possibly be convinced. If you have anecdotes that will help provide further evidence of time savings and making certain tasks easier due to a V plow, let us hear about it. I do have to say after looking at the pictures of the V in action, it looks like it could be more productive by far, but what do I know I haven't pushed flake number one yet.

[Edited by Greenman2ooo on 10-18-2000 at 02:35 PM]

[BRL]

Greenman,
Do a search on V plows (and other spelling combinations like V-plows, V, etc.). Most of your questions have been addressed by the V owners in past threads.

[GeoffDiamond]

Ok

I own V-Plows, and streight blades, and I will contine to argue that streight blades have there uses and benefits. However if you are a one man operation, a V-Plow is a must. A V-Plow is almost always needed on very parking lot, however it's use on residential driverways, isn't as great.

It is worth the extra money, if you are a one man show. The is a major boost in productivity, and endables to move snow with the scoop setting, not just cast it to the side like a streight blade. Don't compare the Snow Biz, to the Lawn Care Biz, its two totally different world. Let me ask you, how many $ 10,000 + grounds maintmance contacts do you have, that only require you to visit them 18 (this is the max amount of storms i have had in the past 5 years in a season) times max in a season.


Geoff

[Greenman2ooo]

BRL-

I'm trying to QUANTIFY the possible differences in production. I have read about the V Plows and see they have many fans, however I have not hear QUANTIFIABLE proof it is worth an additional $1000.

Example: After buying my new (insert your favorite brand here) V-Plow, a route that would normally take 8 hours would take just under 6. Or, "My V-Plow has cut time in half on lots that (have a certain characteristic, such as large-- wide open, or small--filled with cars and islands) because...."

I am not trying to disagree or be contrary, just trying to get more specifics than I've seen expressed in the past. Sorry if I seem demanding, but being precise is what has helped me succeed in other areas of my business. Other people may not care about the hows and whys, but I have one of those obsessive minds sometimes. ;)

I understand V-Plows have many fans, but I want specifics. I could probably find 5 guys who wouldn't switch back to a straight blade and five guys who wouldn't ever try a V-Plow for this reason or that. I'm looking for their reasoning, rather than their position on straight versus V.

A lot of you guys obviously have tons of experience and I doubt you will have trouble producing "evidence." Many of you get more experience in one season than someone in my location would get in five.

[Chuck Smith]

Greenman,

Spend the extra money. V plows are the way to go. Every major snowplowing company is running them. They are as close as you can get to a "pusher box" for a truck. They will increase productivity by as much as 35% from everything I've read and heard. The "more moving parts" issue is not one I'd worry about in this case.

Yes, maintenance plays the biggest part in how well any plow will work, and last over the years. Buying one that is built well to start, is important too. I can't think of anything a straight plow can do, that a V plow can't do. I can think of many things a V plow can do, that a straight plow <B>can't</B>.

Like I said about pusher boxes.... 10 years ago, around here anyway, pusher boxes were unheard of. When people realized how much faster snow could be cleared using them, they atarted popping up all over.

Now the same thing is happening with the V plows. Now is your chance, believe me and everyone else here, you will be sorry if you buy a straight blade. As far as controlling it, it's no harder to learn than anything else. I'm sure at some point you've operated a loader, or maybe even a small excavator (maybe not). It's no different. Maybe you learned on a belt drive walk behind mower, and now run hydros. It's no different. YOu can probably drive a truck with a manual transmission too, even though it's not as easy as an automatic. A V plow is no different.....

I'm saying all this, and I own a <B>straight blade</B> That must tell you something! (I planned on getting one this winter, but I'm getting married, and need all the $ I can hoard)

~Chuck

[Greenman2ooo]

I really appreciate the input, guys. Now I have to rethink everything as far as buying a plow.

Would it be unwise to buy a plow when you don't have a local dealer or would there be times I'd need the part and it would just be in stock at my local dealer and he would "save the day?" Shipping isn't as fast as getting a part in stock, but I don't know how thorough our local plow dealers parts inventory would be.

I have a Western and a Meyer dealer locally. I can buy a Boss, Western, or Meyer plow where I used to live which is a 3.5 hour drive. Either way, the plow is going to be bought where I used to live since they are, on average $500-$700 less than where I live now.

I'm leaning towards Western since they have a local dealership. It seems foolish to buy something if I have to have all my parts shipped to me in case of breakdowns.

Geoff- Concerning the 10K contract, you have reinforced my point. Our time is much more valuable doing snow removal because there is so little time available to respond to storms.

If all we ever got was 2", there would be no problem, even if some places didn't get cleared until after everyone left at night. When we have large accumulations and late snowstorms, a single truck has about five hours maximum of work it can schedule to be done before the workday starts and many people expect to be completely plowed by then.

Most accounts I approach need to be cleaned up by 7:30am or so. If I decide a storm needs to be plowed at 2am and I'm out by 3am, I have 4.5 hours of plow time available per truck which doesn't allow for many mistakes in productivity.

[Edited by Greenman2ooo on 10-18-2000 at 04:51 PM]

[Chuck Smith]

If you have a 3.5 hour drive to a dealer, vs. one much shorter, that "might" have the part in stock, it's a tough choice. The initial saving I can understand. You can still buy the plow 3.5 hours away. Some dealers throw in the "emergency repair kit". If the one you buy from doesn't, then buy it yourself on the spot, with the plow. They really do contain the most common parts you'd need.
You'll learn you need to keep your own parts inventory handy. Not every part, but pretty much the ones that come in the kits. For all you know, the dealer 3.5 hours away may <B>not</B> have "every" part in stock either. Also, it's a <B>brand new</B> plow, and there's really not much that "should" go wrong. Be sure to have at least 3 sets of every mounting pin, for whichever plow you buy (if it uses them). Other than that, the emergency kit should have you covered for anything "ordinary" that could go wrong.

Also, around here, many small auto parts stores carry replacement plow parts. They can work in a jam. Not mounting brackets, or pump parts, but everything else.

~Chuck

[Greenman2ooo]

Thanks Chuck. You are an encyclopedia for snowplowing information. :) Do you know if Western makes one of those emergency repair kits? Do all or most of the manufacturers have something like this? It sounds like a "must have" to me!

[Chuck Smith]

Yes, Western, Meyer, Fisher, Boss, I think they all make them now. Take a look over at Central Parts. It may even be cheaper to buy one for whatever plow you get from Central Parts Warehouse anyway.

http://www.centralparts.com/emergency_repair_kits.htm

They're in Illinois, so shipping shouldn't take too long.

They have them for Western, Meyer, Fisher, and Hinniker. I know Boss makes one too, but don't see it at Central Parts.

All you have to do, is jot down what is in each kit, and order the parts separately for the plow you buy, if one isn't offered for that brand. Buy a cheap plastic tool box, and you're all set. I recommend the tool box anyway, so you have the tools handy that you'll need to make repairs on the road. I'm no encyclopedia, but I have written a few magazine articles, and The Snowplowing Handbook. <-- (shameless self promotion)


~Chuck

[Chuck Smith]

I just noticed the emergency kits sold at Central Parts don't come with a spare angle cylinder. I'm pretty sure they are supposed to. So keep that in mind when comparing prices.

~Chuck

[GeoffDiamond]

Buy dealers are fairly close, 30 to 40 mins away (in maine thats considered close. However they are closed on weekend, and they closed from 5 pm to 7 am. So i pretty much have a plow dealership in my shop. I have spare cylinders, a spare fisher and diamond pump, as well as the less expensive parts. If we don't have the parts to fix it in the shop, the chance is the dealer doesn't have them either and its going to be a long term break down.

I am not saying to do this. However this is the advantage of having one or two brands of plows. When you have as many plows as i do, you need them to be ready to rock, and downtime means angry customers, lost, money, increased labor cost, and the list just goes on.

Geoff

[Lazer]

Now that we have some more information, a Western MPV 8.5' (8' 8"?) is the choice for you.

$1000 more? Try $2-3000 more plowing the FIRST winter, then $2000 more profits EVERY winter. (Maintenance CAN be more, but as an owner/operator, no problem)

My new 550 has a 9' straight blade, but that's only because it has a driver in it. I know of NO owner/operator that has switched back from a V.

[diggerman]

The biggest problem that I have had with my v plows is trying to put someone who has run one back in a straight blade talk about ***** and moan.

[Greenman2ooo]

Lazer-

Yeah, I'm really leaning towards the MVP. It weighs a bit more, but the truck can handle it. How well does that plow backdrag?

[plowking35]

I saw about 20% more plowing the first 2-3 times I plowed with the mvp, since then I have gotten used to the plow and easily see 35% at least, the heavier the snow fall the more time it will save you. The mvp will have a 2 year warranty, and the only maint, item will be replacing the fluid every year.The nice thing is that the plow is a twin of the fisher v plow, so if the western guy doesnt have the part the fisher guy might. I had to replace a swing cylinder
(due to driver error),and I used a fisher cylinder, even tho I own a mvp. It was the same part number.
I would consider a timbren kit for the front end, or add a leaf. The TTB is notorious for front end issue due to snow plows.
Dino

[Greenman2ooo]

Plowking 35- TTB? What does that stand for?

[GeoffDiamond]

Dino, may have been refering to Twin I Beam? I have had a problem with any of my F series plowing, remember your truck has a solid front axel. You may want to add something, but you should be fine with out it. All my trucks have stock suspensions, i have never had a problem with a snowplow ( i had one truck with problems, however i think the truck had isshues, the only Ford product i have questioned, and it was a lease truck.).

Dino, what did you do to break the cylinder?

Geoff

[Chuck Smith]

TTB = Twin Traction Beam. In regards to your front axle type.

~Chuck

[plowking35]

The ford you own uses a front suspension that is called
Twin
Traction
Beam
It is basically a type of independant front suspension supports by leaf springs. The system works on an x princapal. Meaning that when weight is added to the front end, the tires are put into a neg camber situation. Meaning the top of the tire is closer to the frame than the bottom of the tire. To off set this problem, an extra leaf spring could be added, but that will require at least $ 500.00
A set of timbren load boosters will run less than 1/2 that and accomplish the same purpose.
My favorite story about a v plow vs a staright plow is me and a sub in the same lot, we started at opposite ends, working towards the center. He has a 9' pro plow, and I have the mvp.I only used the scoop position.I did 2/3 of the lot compared to his 1/3. Every pass I made was the same amount of snow, while as he winrowed, the berm got higher and higher till he had to straight blade it the majority, and then clean up the spill off. When I got over to him, I moved his winrow in 2 passes with no spill off.
Dino

[npswi]

On the subject of finding parts for plows. Most large auto parts stores carry parts for the big names in the winter. In my area ( Wi ) Carquest and Napa have oil,hoses,lights,and other parts on hand. They can get the rest..

In repy to the debate over 1/2 or 3/4 ton trucks. In my area most dealers will not even install a plow on a 1/2 ton due to the front axle weight cap. The only plows on 1/2 tons in this area is installed on the old straight axle trucks.. As for owning a S-10 with a Plow- Never!!!

[GeoffDiamond]

Dino, my question is. How did the cylinder get broken?

Geoff

[plowking35]

Operator error. I had the plow in the scoop position, and started backing up, I cut the wheel and caught the outer edge of a wing on a catch basin top, it pulled the further forward and pulled the cyl. out of the housing. There is a mushroom type end on the cyl. that prevents it from coming out of the housing, and that broke. Fluid everywhere.
I always keep alot of extra fluid with me, so I put a strap on the wing to keep that side from swinging to far out, and then refilled the resivoir, and kept plowing. It was a long night, but I made it through. Wasnt nearly as efficient, but it got the job done.
Dino