Tecumseh Carb

[Westbrooklawn]

I have a 9 hp tecumseh on a tiller, and it wouldn't run. Took the carb off and it was all junked up. Cleaned it out, put it back on and it started right up....trouble now is that it is dripping gas when not running.

The needle valve attached to the float seemed to seat in some sort of spongy white material.....not a brass seat as I've always seen in other carbs. I dug some of the stuff out when I was cleaning the carb, and wondered if this is what is causing my leak. Is that white stuff supposed to be in there? I couldn't seem to get to the bottom of it, so I assumed it was some sort of seating material that tecumseh carbs used????? Thanks in advance for any help.

[barnard]

Yes it's the seat for the needle. And yes it has to be there in good condition. Usually you can remove them by blowing compressed air in the fuel inlet nipple.

[floridalawncare]

sounds like you dug into the seat. I did the same thing a while back. only thing mine was black, but the same soft spongy texture you describe.

[NCSERVICE]

The tecumseh carb has a metal needle and rubber seat, the brass seat carbs have a rubber tip needles.

[ducky1]

A new one is included in a carb. kit. A word of caution about blowing air in the fule inlet to remove the old seat. Don"t point it toward yourself because it usually comes out at a high rate of speed. Point it at the cat or something.

[Westbrooklawn]

Thanks to all for their responses.....I understand now that the seat is a replacable item, and I have ordered a carb kit.

My concern, however, is how to get the old seat out. On my original cleanout attempt I blew high pressure air through the fuel inlet, and while the air came up through the needle seat passage it DID NOT blow the old seal out. Should I just dig it out with something like a small drill bit? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[ducky1]

I would not use a drill bit because it may scratch the inside where the new seat will not seal off right after you install it. Some times the old seat gets stuck pretty tight. Try several blast of air out of a compressor that is fully pumped up. If you have one of those safety air guns that dont give a good blast you may have to rig something else to give it a good blast.

[floridalawncare]

westbrook, try using an awl. this a sharp pointed tool, usually with a screw driver handle. if you don't have something like this, go to a napa and see what they've got.

[The Dude]

May i suggest this website.
http://pub94.ezboard.com/flmrmpowerforumfrm1

This guy knows his stuff, plus there is a tecumseh service rep who posts here often as well.

[UNISCAPER]

Does this engine have a a brass soldered together float in the carb?

If so, check to see that it is still tight and not leaking. If the float fills up with fuel, it will never seat, no matter weather the seat is new used, or cleaned.

As far as removal of the old seat, put the carb in Gunk carb cleaner overnight, wash it out with water, then blow it out with air. Stick the air gun directly into the seat and it should come clean. If you still need to get it out, carefully heat the carb around the seat with a propane torch. Don't get it too hot, just enough to dislodge the seat when you crank on it with a screw driver. Works like a charm.

[locutus]

I was astonished to discover that Tecumseh makes the herolded peerless transmission. Is this the only decent thing they make?

[UNISCAPER]

Actually:

We had a 5 hp Techumseh that we put a forged billet rod in, shaved the head and took a smog pump and supercharged. It would run about 90 on a Bonanaza mini bike smoking clutches and peeling tires...

[JHC]

I have a 4hp Craftsman Edger. I rebuilt the carb but it will only run if you pump the primer on the carb. Then the exhaust glows red. Any idea what could be wrong? Does the bowl nut on the bottom need to be replaced?

Also, I can buy a new "universal" carb on e-bay that supposedly fits all Techumseh 3 - 8 hp engines. The p/n is 640025 (I think) but my carb is 640172. WHould this "universal" carb work?

[SWD]

Techumeh carbs have a soft foam white needle seat. The best way to remove them is with a small gauge piece of wire or with a sharp dental pick.
What ever you do, don't soak these carbs in carb cleaner - use only non flammable solvent like safety solvent. The casting pores in the carb will expand and the carb won't work if you soak in carb cleaner.
These T carbs are notorious for leaking like a pig due to this crappy needle seat design.
When replacing, be very careful when seating the new seat and adjusting the height on the float. DO NOT press the float into the seat to get a proper float height as this will trash the seat and cause the fuel leaking out of the carb air intake.
JHC, your problem is associated with a leaking needle seat as well. Your not flowing enough fuel to spill out of the carb intake, however, it is running rich enough to exit the exhaust port - also a common problem on these motors.
Actually your problem is more severe as the excess fuel can 'whipe' the lubricating oil from the cylinder walls and cause premature wear in the cylinder and to the rings.
As far as the universal carb, I am not familiar with it.

[SER]

Try this. Remove the carb from the uit. Remove all loose items from the carb, ie needle and seat, float and pin, etc. Spray it down wiht gumout, or brake parts cleaner. MAKE SURE you get all the small orifices wet with the cleaner. Then take a piece of tag wire, similar to the wire used to tie closed a bread bag, and push it through ALL the orifices and openings inside the carb and the outside. Remember to get at the atmospheric vent openings. Then blow compressed air through all the openings. Replace the needle and seat, and bowl gasket. Replace carb. This should solve your problem. I HOPE.
Al/SER

[mobilefleet]

I have an easier fix. Replace unit with a Kawasaki powered or Honda powered unit. :D You will fight Teh-junk-seh all day getting it to start. Am I biased? You bet, cause I've worked on all these motors and know which ones last.

[mower_medic]

I rebuilt the carb but it will only run if you pump the primer on the carb. Then the exhaust glows red. Any idea what could be wrong?
That red glow usually means the timing is off and your engine is running extremely HOT. Pull the flywheel off and check the flywheel key. Since you have the flywheel off, replace the key anyways since even the slightest shear will throw the timing off enough to make it run hot.