View Full Version : wright stander height adjustment and blade change

10-24-2000, 08:33 PM
Wondering of those Wright Stander owners how hard it is to make height adjustments and blade changes. I am looking into one of these. Have driven it and like it. I also wonder about how it handles the hills. Where I tried it, it was hilly and a few times it spun it's wheels going down the hill and carried past the next run. I just wondered this is a problem with these types in general. I am looking at a 48" or a 52" and would be interested in prices you have paid. Really appreciate your help.

10-24-2000, 08:44 PM
changing the cuting height isn't a problem just run one of the front wheels up on your trailer ramp and adjust the other side and then do the same on the other side, also changing the blades do the same thing run one wheel up on the ramp and change 2 of the blades and then the other side I use mine on hill sides deep ditches exct. vertically and horizontially with no prob. also I paid $4800 for my 16 hp 48" wright stander good luck on your decision, and if you have any other ? you can email me. check my profile for address

Turf Kutter
10-24-2000, 08:55 PM
moon if you do that you will bottom out on the deck.Please put more detail by what you mean.:)

10-24-2000, 08:59 PM
I purchased a Wright Stander this summer. Mine has a 48" cut and 17hp Kawasaki engine. Prior to this mower I've used Scag hydro walk behinds. This machine has made my job much easier and renewed my interest in mowing. I wish that I had purchased one earlier. So far (about 200 hrs) the machine has been trouble free and built well.

I still carry a walk behind for mowing embankments. Once you are comfortable with the Stander you will find that the mower is good on hillsides. I lift the front of the mower up with a tractor bucket to change blades. Mowing height is adjusted with the front caster spaces just like most walk behinds. Hope this answers your questions. Steve

10-24-2000, 10:11 PM
to be more specific drive the front right tire up on the ramp this leaves the left side out to the side a good 12 to 18 inches of the ground with plenty of room to work and then switch sides by moving to the other side of the trailer and driving the left side up on the ramp I have done this for several years to change my blades it is easier than using a jack or other apparatus and quicker especially in the field

10-24-2000, 10:27 PM
No big deal changing height or blades. I use a Jungle Jim "jungle jack" on my 61" Stander, but the trailer ramp works well too. I don't change the height of cut on mine. I cut all lawns at approx. 3 1/2 inches. The Stander does pretty well on hills...going across. It will go up and down, but can get away from you on steep declines. I have been able to mow all hills that my Toro 52"Z can with the Stander. Stander 61" w/23hp Kaw cost me 6,500. Had it since June and still happy.

10-24-2000, 10:40 PM
thanks for the replys...appreciate the help a lot. anybody else that wants to chip in is appreciated to. thanks again

10-25-2000, 01:16 AM
I have a 48" with 18 Vanguard & love it! I use the Jungle Jack or when on the road use the trailer ramp like mentioned earlier. Great, solid machine & easy to use & work on. I believe I paid $4800.00 for it. Once you are comfortable with it, you will be able to handle any hill. Next year I will get a larger deck so that it is off set from the wheel base and easier for trimming around objects. The quality of cut is great. Throw some double blades on it (regular under gator) and you don't have to bag leaves.

10-26-2000, 11:38 AM
I loked at the wright stander and the deck adjustment is the main reason I didnt buy it. Liked the concept but seemed to time consuming compared to pin or even better a hydro deck lift

Turf Kutter
10-26-2000, 10:49 PM
Moon so you are saying in a short way is drive up the ramp diagnol with one caster hanging off?

10-27-2000, 01:23 AM
No diagonal needed. Just drive straight up with the side you are adjusting hanging off. On most ramps the back wheels will still be on the ground when the front casters are high enough to adjust. Do the same to work on the blades, but you need to have more of the deck hanging over.
Here's a little trick to keep the hands from getting greased up when working on casters & other greased equipment on the road. Get a box of the disposable rubber gloves (like you see doctors or food service people use) from auto part stores, drug stores or whole sale clubs, and keep it in the truck. No soap needed, and no getting grease all over everything.

04-24-2003, 09:53 PM
Thanks to all with the infomation & tips concerning Wright Standers. I just purchased a 52" for $4500. Like it real well so far. Getting ready to change the blades. I see I need two wrenches. Is it very hard for one person to do? I did invest in a Jungle Jack.

04-24-2003, 10:31 PM
To change blades, I have a ĹĒ drive extended handle socket wrench with an impact socket for the top nut, and another socket on a break-over bar for the bolt head on the bottom. Generally, I donít tighten them that tight. Itís just that if you hit something with a blade, it will get knut-busting tight, and youíll need the extra leverage to get the nut broke free. You can find cheap impact sockets at a pawn shop. Iíve split conventional sockets.

As suggested above, I change the front castor height to the highest position, then drive one wheel up on the trailer ramp. That gets you access to two of the three blades. That Jungle Jack looked handy, but itís just something else thatíd have to be locked down, besides I prefer to minimize whatís on the trailer.

As far as hill-side performance, Iíd rate the Stander king-of-the-hill as far as ZTRís go. But NEVER get the mower pointed down-hill. At best, youíll skid to a stop and tear the turf. At worst, itíll kill everybody big enough to die. Additionally, if you set the wheel motor brackets back to the farthest holes, it will dramatically improve the mowerís up-hill performance.

04-25-2003, 12:28 AM
I haven't experienced down hill problems like that described, but they were only 50 degree or less grades. It is easy to lock the bottom wrench into the baffles to hold them on while breaking the tightness when changing the blades. I use a box wrench on the bottom and a 1\2 inch ratchet on the top and don't have a problem. (the baffles may not work on 52" though?, mine is 48"). Tried an impact wrench but my compressor doesn't have enough power to break them. I have probably posted it before LOL but the Jungle Jack is well worth the money.

04-25-2003, 01:31 AM
50 degree slope? LOL

Not even close. No mower (other than the type made by Hustler for example) could stay on a 30+ degree slope. I know some slopes can look like they're 45 degrees, but get a protractor, a long straightedge, and measure your steepest slope. A man can't even walk on a 35 degree slope without reaching for ground, much less operate mower, forget about a ZTR.

An engine is not designed to lubricate itself steeper than 25 degrees or so. Most of the steepest slopes a typical mower can cling to are less than that.

Pristine Landscapes
05-10-2010, 09:39 PM
I use an impact. Just take the top rubber part off and drill it out until the blades drop. I have a 52" 23hp its a 2008 with 280 hours i got it for 4600. Gotta have a cleared under deck with some gator blades and you're good to go. It will hold hills pretty good. I have only dumped mine once and have been on some gnarly hills.