Synthetic oil or not that's the ?

[Yardworks]

I was wondering if anyone had any good or bad experiences with synthetic oils or wonder oil treatments(Prolong,slick 50,ect.) One of my machines has a kohler, so I need all the help I can get.... J/K.

[Keith]

The only downside to synthetic is it's cost. Otherwise it is superior to petroleum. I use Mobil 1 in my Kohler 25 and Kubota as well as my vehicles.

As far as additives go, I am not a big fan of them. If you use a quality synthetic they are not necessary. Stay away from Slick 50 and anything with PTFE's. It was never intended for use in and engine.

[T.C.O.B.]

Amsoil !

[Eric ELM]

I have read that using anything with PTFE isn't good, but I've been using it for over 10 years now with no internal engine problems. I use Tufoil which has particles smaller than 1/2 a micron in size. My Amsoil 1 micron oil filter doesn't clog up using this, so the size must be correct. It will make any engine run cooler, which I feel is a great thing for air cooled engines. I didn't know how much it made them run cooler, but when I put it in my new diesel, the temperature dropped 10 degrees on a 90 plus degree day, so I could see a big difference there. This is very slick and less friction means less heat. I also use it in my truck and van. Even after reading about this on this forum before, I continue to use it and add it to a new engine after it is broke in. I notice more power and better mileage on road vehicles. If anyone wants to read about this product, this is the site. http://www.tufoil.com I'm not saying you all should use it, but I will continue to use it since I've had such good luck with it. None of my engines need oil added between oil changes, so it can't be all bad and some are 10 years old. I think it all depends on the size of the PTFE particles, but that is just my opinion.

[Yardworks]

My work truck never leaves town. Just a lot of short trips. I was wondering if I would have a moisture problem after leaving synthetic oil in for so long compared to changing conventional every month or two. I put additives in my Katana 1100 and it increased my top speed from 146mph to 150+mph. But that was when I was young and foolish.

[lawrence stone]

I used amsoil for years but now use Havoline full syn. it's
$3 a quart at Advance Auto.

With my truck and car I change the oil and filter every two years. Thats about 15k+/- miles per vehicle.

The mowers get new oil and filters once a year in late November no matter how many hours run. During mowing season it is add only.

[TLS]

Here we go again!!

[Mowman]

Bought a used Walker in June and after running it for a few weeks I switched all the fluids over to Mobil 1. After running Mobil 1 in the engine,hydros,and the gear boxes everything seems to run much cooler than they did with regular motor oil. I'll stick with the Mobil 1.
Good Luck,
Mowman

[Alan]

Synthetic oils are a viable economic option only if you use the extended drain intervals that these oils allow. If you're running synthetics, with the increased cost, WHY stick with the normal change interval? Granted, synthetics will provide better wear charastics, but they are designed to provide those over the entire extended drain interval. I change yearly, in the fall, as part of my winterization process.

[awm]

Isaw a very convinsing demo that involved
a drill press,havoline 10-30 and militeck.
It definitly reduced friction a lot.
Iuse it on motors ,bearings etc .
It is most effective in extending life
of old worn things.

[pottstim]

I use Pennzoil 5w30 Full Synthetic with the Pennzane in my 2000 Silverado. I went on vacation a little over a month ago, and was running 70-75 mph on I-81. When i checked the mileage at the Exxon Station in Staunton, VA..I got 27.8 mpg. The truck used something like 11. some odd gallons to go 305 miles. It has the 4.3 V6, and the 5 speed. I consider that to be pretty good being as the truck is rated at 22 highway. Some of the credit I give to the oil..less heat..less friction..less resistance= better mileage.

Tim

[Premo Services]

Originally posted by lawrence stone

The mowers get new oil and filters once a year in late November no matter how many hours run. During mowing season it is add only.


Doesn`t the oil in your mowers get dirty? On my 17 kaw. the oil gets real dirty at 50 hrs. and on 23 kaw at about 100 hrs.I use mobil tri synthetic oil, it seems to have more power, and it does run cooler.

[Edited by mow money on 11-01-2000 at 03:34 AM]

[LJ lawn]

SYNERGYN or LUCAS oil treatment in EVERYTHING!!

[MOW ED]

Oil change intervals have to be followed for any engine. Amsoil has the only system of filters that I know of that extends oil change intervals. Without it I would go no more than 50 hours on a mower and 3000 miles on a vehicle. Synthetic as well as petroleum based oil has no protection from dirt.

That said if you are not a believer in synthetic you should look under the hood of the Corvettes as well as in the hydros of Walkers and in the Dixie Choppers. All of these pieces of equipment now come with synthetic oil from the factory. Kohlers owners manuals have recommended synthetic oil as an equal substitute for a few years now.

There are 2 things that really kill an engine - dirt and heat. By design the synthetic oil helps by running cooler the owner of the engine takes care of number 2. Sorry Larry.

[geogunn]

castrol 20w-50 is the way I go with my vehicles. since 1974 in everything. never an oil related failure or repair.

currently, I've got two 305 chevys with over 250k on each. neither uses more than a half quart between change intervals of 3500 miles, and most of that is lost to slight oil leaks.

QUESTION: would it be advisable to change my 14 kawasaki to synthetic at this point in its life, about 7 years old?

many thanks.

GEO

[TLS]

GEO,

20W-50 no matter what brand is way too thick for any new engine. You might be able to get away with it in a 1974 whatever, but it has no place in a modern engine. You are not too far south to eliminate cold climates which would compound this problem. If you were in the deserts of Arizona, I would say that it is probably OK in a truck. You are creating too much parasitic drag on internal engine components.

Like I said in those 250K+ 305's, you are probably OK with all the wear on the clearances that 250K can produce. But if you use it in a lawnmower engine, you are not doing it any good.

P.S.: I am no way an expert on oils or metalurgy, but I have read extensive reports on engine oil, additives, and viscosity.

[lawrence stone]

Mow Ed wrote

>Synthetic as well as petroleum based oil has no protection from dirt.

Not since the days of non-detergent oil.

That why engines have oil filters installed at the factory.

An oil filter was a option on a 1955 Bel Air.

Old type 1 VW's just had a metal screen.

We have come a long way since the 3000 mile oil change was actually needed.

If you don't believe my system works I can supply wav file of 2 Kohler twins with over a 1000 hrs each that have been treated with such disrespect.

Since I don't buy $10k lawn mowers I don't have an affection towards the machines. They are just mules made to used and abused.

When operating lawn care equipment I strive for lowest inital cost, lowest cut of upkeep and operation, longest available lifespan, ease of maint., ABLE TO TAKE EMPLOYEE ABUSE, and suitable productivity.

I fact my equipment cost on some of my machines the difference in cost per hour vs. a $10k ZTR is liking getting a min. wage laborer for FREE.

[MOW ED]

And that is one of many differences between you and me.

[geogunn]

dixie1--thanks for the advice on the 20w-50. a little more info is that one 305 is in a '79 camaro and the other is in an '85 k-1500 jimmy. impressive service from both.

my question to you now is what about 20w-50 in an '97 toyota v-6? I got 110k on that one so far and no oil related problems that I know of. what do you think I can expect from the use of that oil in that motor on an extended basis?

my opinion on lighter petrol based oils is that they want you to use them because they don't want an engine to run 400K before it's shot. AND they have to certify MPG on the sticker with the lighter oil or it'd never get the rating.

by the way, my question on the KAWASAKI wasn't about castrol, it was about changing to a synthetic oil after so many hours. so far, I've only run quaker state 10w-30 in the kawasaki.

GEO

[leeslawncare]

How many of you guys would reccomend switching to syn.oil ?My deere 13 kohlor has bout 300 hrs .will it be ok to change to it ? I change the oil every 75 hrs.is that too often? thanks ..

[Keith]

I change mine more frequently than synthetic would require, that's for sure. I change the oil in the Kees (25 Kohler) every 100-125. The Kubota LC gets changed about every 200.

I switched both of those to synthetic at about 50 hours. So 300 is fine.

[John DiMartino]

Here are my thoughts on oil-yes dirt and heat do kill engines-but a clean air and oil fliters keep out dirt-so that is taken care of,heat is good for an engine-they like to run hot-not to hot-but hot enough to get an oil temp of at least 190-200.You need that temp to burn off the moisture in the oil on a regular basis.I think contamination and cold starts do more damage to engines than heat and dirt combined-that is if you are not overheating it and not neglecting to service your air/and oil filters.I dont see why Stone would have any problems running a season on an oil change-so long as its synthetic oil.If he had an air filter problem or an intake leak that allowed unfiltered air to get in,it would eventually contaminate the oil,and without regular oil samples you wouldnt know this was happening,then he would wear his engine out much faster than someone who changed it every 25 hrs,and was flushing out contamination.A leaky carb dilutes the oil also,which reduces its film strenth and breaks it down at a faster rate,if you have a leaker-one that floads out after shut it down-and blows black smoke when restarting it hot,you should be changing the oil a lot,and hopefully your getting it hot enough to burn off most of the moisture in the crankcase.I get between 3-6 oil samples a year-I wouldnt pay out for them-thay are included with shaeffers oil when you buy a large yearly order like I always do,and these samples have helped me to know my engines-and increase my drain intervals on almost all of them-saving me money,time,and waste all the while knowing my oil is still doing its job as good as the day i put it in.I am at 250 hrs on my Ford,and the sample just came back -it said to keep it in longer-sample was well within range of new oil.This is with Shaeffers 15W40 Parasynthetic oil.So I would change to synthetic if i were you-just watch out for oil leaks-sometimes you get them after changing-most times you dont.

[Banzaitoy]

I personnally use synthetics and have since I ran steam turbines in the navy. At 400 feet under the surface you don't need oil failure problems. As for additives

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html

[bdemir]

Mobil 1 is the best and in real old engines just use two bottles of motor honey to help the thin synthetic oil to thicken and travel upwards better. If you really want to try something then try using a mobil 1 filter along with mobil one and then pour a bottle of pro long (best stuff) and see how the engine purrs like a kitten. I dont know the details but i change all my oild at reagular intervals and never have any oil realted problems. you can use synthetic oil in older vehicles but you have to use the thicker synth oils along with motor honey to help it thicken and give the loose and old engine the compression it needs. My opinion is use synthetic oil anythime on a lawn mower and on large car engines i would try it and then be careful and switch back if you see the engine is not running optimal.