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View Full Version : Toro doubles???


sildoc
01-19-2004, 07:25 PM
Well I finally picked up my toro 36" proline hydro. Question that my dealer wouldn't or couldn't tell me. For doubles do you just cross two blades or does toro have some sort of device you need. Thanks.

BB36
01-19-2004, 07:43 PM
I don't have a need for doubles but I did ask my shop(sells Toros) last year and he said doubles will work except the bolt that holds the blade is to short.You would only have to change the bolt to a longer one so it can hold 2 blades that are crossed.
PS I only run Toros.

lawnman_scott
01-19-2004, 08:10 PM
I have a 32 belt, i just cross them. it does wonders.

sildoc
01-19-2004, 08:17 PM
As for the longer bolt. Can you just go down to your local hardware store and buy a longer bolt or does it have to be a special grade bolt? Thanks.

NCSULandscaper
01-19-2004, 08:29 PM
Ive tried doubles on my toro but took away too much power. The factory bolt was plenty long for doubles.

sildoc
01-19-2004, 08:33 PM
Thanks I will be trying this this week if the rain stops for a day.

LawnScapers of Dayton
01-19-2004, 08:58 PM
I ran Toro's for years.....with doubles recently.....no power problems and the bolts were plenty long enough.

That was a 36" and 48" fixed deck..

Derek

Fareway Lawncare
01-19-2004, 09:03 PM
Just remove the Blade Stiffener.

Doubes on a Toro 36"

brucec32
02-01-2004, 12:38 AM
I'm thinking of trying to use doubles on a 44" "classic" toro deck that isn't mulch-capable. What can I expect in terms of improvements in clippings volume/size/etc? I will be mowing bahia and st. augustine at 3-4".

GrassBustersLawn
02-01-2004, 12:51 AM
I ran doubles on my Toro Z -147 44" for last half of year. Worked great. The BOLT on it is really long, so I just used the same one. It also has the blade bracked, so I put a spacer (big washer) between the two blades.

I also ran doubles on my 48" Exmark Lazer HP. It has a short blade bolt so I went to LOWES and got a longer one. Make sure you get the same # of threads per inch. Take the original with you so you can compare them.

I think you will like it.

MIKE

brucec32
02-01-2004, 01:21 AM
Fareway, how did you remove the toro blade saddle(stiffener)? I see yours appears to be a newer sfs deck. I have a '98 "classic" deck.

Fareway Lawncare
02-01-2004, 09:33 AM
The deck on the "classic" & new style Toro 36" is identical. The only difference is the carrier frame. The new style is crap compared to the classic.

Meg-Mo
02-01-2004, 05:13 PM
Try the MEG MO blades. No worry about all the worries and the knives are free to move when you hit something , stay sharp longer.

Doc Pete
02-01-2004, 05:38 PM
Originally posted by Fareway Lawncare
The deck on the "classic" & new style Toro 36" is identical. The only difference is the carrier frame. The new style is crap compared to the classic.

And, how do we know "this post" is the post that you decide not to lie about. Or, are Tuesdays the only time you tell the truth. Since you've totally blow any bit of credibility of yourself on this forum, please go back an attempt to post on the "other" forum you've been banned from.
thank you,

Fareway Lawncare
02-01-2004, 06:10 PM
Please ignore the "Doc" Bruce, he is somewhat delusional & still in a tizzy after learning his WB isn't the ultimate mowing machine.

Regardless, unless yours has an older spindle set-up, the blade stiffner should just come off when you remove the blades.

sildoc
02-01-2004, 08:02 PM
Originally posted by Meg-Mo
Try the MEG MO blades. No worry about all the worries and the knives are free to move when you hit something , stay sharp longer.

How do they stay sharper longer? Specifically I'm sure it has to do with the molecular make up of the carbon steel and how it is heat treated, which completly goes out the door after the first sharpening. so I ask how do they stay sharper longer? and then do you have to take them apart to sharpen?

Doc Pete
02-01-2004, 08:51 PM
Originally posted by Fareway Lawncare
Please ignore the "Doc" Bruce, he is somewhat delusional & still in a tizzy after learning his WB isn't the ultimate mowing machine.

Regardless, unless yours has an older spindle set-up, the blade stiffner should just come off when you remove the blades.

Sorry "FrazzyGrass", people have your number. We haven't forgotten your "game" with "what's wrong with the picture". We still haven't seen your truck or any part of your business, since you don't have any. Come on Mr. big, let's see a picture of you and your business. Tell us again how you run an "open chute" on city properties with your $2,000 imported, illegal 21 push mowers. Come, we all need a laugh. Come on, UL, change your name again. Which is it this week? Actually, I'm getting really worried by never seeing your picture, that you're not a guy. Hmmmmmm, maybe that's it..... Should we be calling you "Mrs. UL"?????

Fareway Lawncare
02-01-2004, 09:07 PM
The only Toro's I've not been able to install doubles on are the Proline 21" w/BBC & the spindle arrangement w/blade cradles.

Here is my Non-Street Legal Imported 21" "Doc". You really sound like you're in a Tizzy Now.

Doc Pete
02-01-2004, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by Fareway Lawncare
Here is my Non-Street Legal Imported 21" "Doc". You really sound like you're in a Tizzy Now.

Your's???? Sorry, bozo.... NOT! All we see are pictures. Anyone can copy pictures Give use a break. As far as being in a Tizzy............................. "You're" the one privately emailling me to let me know how you feel about me". I must be awful important to you, now that you have to constantly email me in your attempts to grab my attention. Sorry UL, I'm happily married and not interested in a gay affair with you. Or, if you are a woman, I'm not interested, either.
Thanks,
Pete

DLCS
02-01-2004, 11:31 PM
Originally posted by sildoc
Specifically I'm sure it has to do with the molecular make up of the carbon steel and how it is heat treated, which completly goes out the door after the first sharpening.


Why does it go out the door with the first sharpening?

sildoc
02-02-2004, 02:23 AM
Originally posted by DLCS
Why does it go out the door with the first sharpening?

Carbon steel is heat treated to get to a specific hardness. With blades they heat treat to get it hard enough it doesn't dent easy but soft enough it doesn't shater when it hits something.

The first time and everytime you sharpen your blades you heat up that metal and it is not the same as it was from the factory.
You can get really specific on this but this sums it up.

Doc Pete
02-02-2004, 07:13 AM
Originally posted by sildoc
Carbon steel is heat treated to get to a specific hardness. With blades they heat treat to get it hard enough it doesn't dent easy but soft enough it doesn't shater when it hits something.

The first time and everytime you sharpen your blades you heat up that metal and it is not the same as it was from the factory.
You can get really specific on this but this sums it up.

That may be fine in theory, but you've got to be a pretty poor sharpener to heat the blade up that much to cause a big change.
DP

Doc Pete
02-02-2004, 07:43 AM
Originally posted by Fareway Lawncare
You're right "Doc", I copied all the pics.
& I'm not interested in being your Sugar Daddy.

Ah, that's a better look at your true colors. A totally useless picture with nothing more than a childish dig at a sponser.

MOW ED
02-02-2004, 07:58 AM
Sildoc,
I have a 1998 Toro 44" deck with a 15HP Kohler. I only run doubles on it in the fall when the leaves are down. I have a mulch kit that I use.

I used to run them all year long but my experience has found that I lost 2 electric clutches in a season and I am thinking that the doubles had something to do with that. I do not want to debate this with anyone as it is my experience. I am not saying that your machine will burn clutches, mine has and at 200 bucks plus time down I cant afford it.
I used Toro atomic blades and the big washer as the gentleman had said earlier. I did notice a difference in the clipping size and definately an improvement when there was lush growth but I used to use that mower before I got my Walker 52" SD that has doubles from the factory. The Walkers doubles have a 26EFI pushing it and I have no power or clutch problems because the clutch is manual.

So to make a long story short, doubles can be attempted by you if you wish. Keep your clutch adjusted, it should start without a big screech. You may need a spacer on the 36" deck but I don't have one so I don't know. Performance does increase but you have to be careful. Good Luck.

DLCS
02-02-2004, 08:14 AM
Originally posted by Doc Pete
but you've got to be a pretty poor sharpener to heat the blade up that much to cause a big change.
DP

Yup, thats exactly what I was thinking.:)

sildoc
02-02-2004, 12:33 PM
Originally posted by DLCS
Yup, thats exactly what I was thinking.:)

NOW. Poor sharpener or not, You will make the cutting edge hot enough to take the factory specific hardness out.
You can not tell me that the first 1/8" of the blade does not get hot. If you are saying it doesn't, try this one day as you are sharpening. get a 5 gal bucket full of water. After making a pass of sharpening dunk your blade in the water.
Yep just what I thought. It makes a sizzle sound saying that you have heated that blade enough to change the molecular structure of the steel in at least the first bit of the cutting blade.

It is near impossible for what we use to not change it. I am just saying that it changes from what it was when brand new from the factory.
It is still in specifications to hold an edge but where meg-mo (still have not heard him chime in yet on his specific blades) says his blades will hold and edge longer I just cant see that there is that big if a difference in his steel he uses as apose to toro and others.
I am not saying that there are not metals and metal alloys that are not better by far but do cost significantly more say probably at least 100 apiece if mass produced, just not cost effective for you or I.

DLCS
02-02-2004, 02:16 PM
Sildoc,

I use a air sander to sharpen my blades, I don't grind them. I can sharpen my blades without changing the temper. The hardness of the Meg Mo blades is higher than most blades on the market and yes they do hold an edge longer than stock blades. I know because I use them.

Meg-Mo
02-02-2004, 02:32 PM
Most blades on the market are 15 38 steel rockwelled to 40 our blades are 10 80 steel rockwell to 50 and being free to swing they just stay sharp about 10 times longer and no nicks so when sharpen it is like sharpening your pocket knife and I never got a knife hot enough sharpening it to have it hot to touch.

LawnPerfect
02-02-2004, 03:09 PM
LOL
gay lawn guy love
LMAO

sildoc
02-02-2004, 03:50 PM
Originally posted by Meg-Mo
Most blades on the market are 15 38 steel rockwelled to 40 our blades are 10 80 steel rockwell to 50 and being free to swing they just stay sharp about 10 times longer and no nicks so when sharpen it is like sharpening your pocket knife and I never got a knife hot enough sharpening it to have it hot to touch.
Ok THe steel is different but I have never used a grinder on my knife. OR have I used an air sander.
Do you pull out your lansky knife sharpener to put an edge on your blades?
I dont think so as it would take you hours just to do one side of a blade. Regardless of what you use you are causing friction which is heat. How do you think you are getting the metal filings off any way?
Something to ponder. I am interested in seeing how good these mega-mos are but am somewhat reluctant to fork out that much cash for a set.
I will see later on this season.

Hey Meg-Mo do you have an unconditional guarantee?
Thanks,
Sildoc

Meg-Mo
02-02-2004, 04:18 PM
The warranty on the MEG - MO blades is not unconditional but close. WE stand back of them. Last week at a show a person stop who had a set that was 2 yr old and had trader mower so blades would not fit. We trade him at 1/2 price and 30 min later we sold them.

DLCS
02-02-2004, 04:24 PM
Originally posted by sildoc
Do you pull out your lansky knife sharpener to put an edge on your blades?
Sildoc

No, I pull out this....

tw970
02-04-2004, 11:10 PM
HAS ANY ONE SEEN THE NEW JACOBSEN Z WITCH IS SUPPOSED TO REPLACE THE BOBCAT AND BUNTON MACHINES IT LOOKS REALY GOOD.

brucec32
02-05-2004, 01:58 AM
Originally posted by Fareway Lawncare
Please ignore the "Doc" Bruce, he is somewhat delusional & still in a tizzy after learning his WB isn't the ultimate mowing machine.

Regardless, unless yours has an older spindle set-up, the blade stiffner should just come off when you remove the blades.

That's funny. I owned two of them years ago with that on it but never noticed if they came off or not. I've had this one a year but bought it used as a backup and have only changed blades once or twice and still didn't bother to check that out. The unit's at my old place now so when I go get it I will try the doubles.

brucec32
02-05-2004, 02:03 AM
I think throttling down when engaging blades could prevent the clutch burn-out potential. I believe they may advise that anyway in the manual.