New Walker ain't climing well.

[MOW ED]

My Walker 26EFI is nearing 200 hours (purchased June 1 2k) and I am starting to have some problems getting up hills that I was able to get up before. As I ascend a hill the engine has plenty of power but it seems that the hydros aren't staying with it and I stall. I also get the sound of a belt squeal when this happens.
I have checked the idlers and they seem fine and I bought and replaced the ground drive belt at 180 hours. The engine belt was replaced at 120 hours.
The mower will go up but I have to really feather the ground speed up real slow. It is no better in reverse. These are steep grades but as I said the mower used to climb them like a lynx.

I can't afford to take it in just yet as it is crunch time for leaf season and I have about a week and a half to go.

What does it sound like to you?

[Mowman]

Ed,
Are you running the same tires on your new Walker that you had on your old one? I'm thinking of putting low profile tires on mine next season. Do you have a larger hopper on this machine than the old one? If so it could be the weight difference. It sounds like you checked out all the other possible things. Good Luck.
Mowman

[TLS]

MOW ED,

I think you diagnosed your problem. I know nothing about Walkers (never even seen on in person) but your hydro pump(s) are slipping somehow. If thats not it, its your wheel motors or pumps internal workings. When pumps go bad they get real sloppy. I seriously think its your belts. Maybe your old belts glazed your pulleys. Maybe your new belts are not OEM grade and aren't as "grippy". If you heard belt squeal, this is a sign of a loose belt. Maybe whatever tensions your belt is not tight enough.

Good Luck

[JJ Lawn]

MOW ED,

I had a problem a while back doing the same thing you described. Not pulling up a hill. I thought that I was having problems with my Hydro's. As I was checking the fluid I noticed bubbles coming up from the bottom of the reservoir. Also the rubber cup was all distorted out of shape. I thought for sure I have a major problem. But while looking at the cap I noticed that the grove for the vent had a piece of leaf plugging it. Cleaned out the vent put cap back on, and Walker worked fine.

I don't know if this will solve your problem but it fixed mine.

Jim

[Cutter1]

I had a problem with my Lasr on hills when I first bought it. The hydro belt was slipping. I had it replaced twice, finally they put on a stronger spring for the tension, now no problems.

[thelawnguy]

Every 50 hours or so you need to remove the spring loaded idler (this goes for any brand of machine) and clean up the greasable bushing. Since there is spring tension when you greas it no grease gets behind half the bushing and it eventually gets tight and wont do a good job snugging up the belt.

If I dont do this with my Exmark it will do just as you describe.

[landscaper3]

1st thing to do is put the speed up kit on it $17.00 we put it on our Walker mowers including our 2001 26EFI model it helped climbing hills. 2nd check your hydros to make sure there isnt alot or some air trapped in line or hydro units thenselves. If you feel the hydro hoses and in there line it feels soft that may contribute to your problem. Also on your drive pullys you should grease once a week, all grease fitting should be greased once a week.Your pully may be dry and putting too much strain on the dual hydro sytem. Also an area to look at is the fans on hydros to be sure branches and debri isnt restricting fan movement and also check each spring on hydros to make sure they are installed and working properly. Let me know how it goes and if anything here has helped.

[Cutter1]

Lawnguy......This happened to mine right off the floor. I did grease it and when I had the spring off I greased it also. FOr some reason my spring could not keep enough tension, now with a stronger spring it runs perfect.

[Nathan]

I have the same problem every once in a while. the idler might look like it is pushing hard enough but could very easily be getting stuck at the point of contact and not allowing it to press as hard as it should. Make sure you grease the pivot point regularly, at least once a week. I actually grease all zerks at least once a week sometimes even more often.

[gene gls]

I had the same problem and my dealer pulled off the groved belt that ran the hydros and it had small particales of sand imbedded into the belt. New belt, runs great!

[BUSHMASTER]

Originally posted by landscaper3
. If you feel the hydro hoses and in there line it feels soft that may contribute to your problem. .



when did walker start using hoses... they are not useing a eaton7 pump ?

[landscaper3]

Congrads you caught my spoof on the lines.

[LJ lawn]

change the belt. make sure they gave you the right replacementi would also find a heavier tension spring.i have the same problem with mine.

[MOW ED]

Guys thanks for all of the input and I will address each item.
I replaced the belt with a new one with the same numbers (OEM Walker belt). I regreased the idler zerk with no tension. I have never changed the oil in the hydros but I inspected and cleaned the dust cups.

I think it is in the spring. Where did you get a replacement? I know I can get a Walker original but is there an aftermarket spring that is better?

I will let you know what happens after I go back to the hills on Friday.

I would have responded earlier but I have been tearing the mower apart looking for the hoses. ;)
Thanks again.

[landscaper3]

I would go with a stiffer aftermarket spring to keep better tension and buy the speed up kit around $17.00 big difference in speed and climbs a whole lot better, other add on is the agressive tires they have, we installed on all our Walkers and will never go back those stock tires. They help hold steep hills I have not even atempted to mow with our walkbehind mower.

[yardsmith]

This is right up my alley........
Broke the idler tension spring on my Bobcat Z after 300 hrs.
Bought another 2 pak, & turns out they were right size but thinner dia. coils.
Well, 3 springs later in 2 weeks, & after about 45 min. downtime today trying to get a new, stiffer spring, she runs like a champ.
Had same problem; hydros were stuttering under a load trying to drive around a lawn-IRRITATING!!!!!
***If you have same problem with both wheels, the prob. is 97% with the belt or drive system that drives your hydros.
Good luck.

[Rodney Johns]

For starters the problem with belt slippage and wear is always worse under extreme heat. The first thing I agree is to go with a $20 speed up kit w/ heavier spring and replace the factory idler spring. The belt can slip with the factory spring, especially on hills. Replace the belt also. If this does not correct the problem. I did have a unit that I replaced a hydro in. Progressively less forward power was how it started. If you remove the plug in the bottom of your axel under the hydrostat system you can diagnose a failed hydro. Typically you will find metal shavings in this system. Replace both the axel and the hydro in this case. Call your local dealer it should be under warranty and is not difficult to replace.

[MOW ED]

I have learned quite a bit from this post and yesterday I called my dealer and as I was explaining my problem he stopped me in mid sentence and told me he knows exactly what the problem is and how to fix it.

It appears that years ago when I bought the speed up kit for my 25hp the only parts that came with the kit were a pulley and key. Over time they found that the factory spring did not cut it. The new kits include a much heavier spring. For $4.80 I believe I have my problem solved. I will test it later today but I am pretty convinced that it is gonna work. I'll post later and thanks to all of you for your help.

[MOW ED]

It was the spring. She climbs like a yellow and white mountain goat again.

Thanks again all.

[captdevo]

Here is a Walker Advisory Bulletin!! FYI

ADVISORY BULLETIN #00128 JANUARY 10, 2000

SUBJECT: Hydrostatic Transmission Failure Pattern

MODELS AFFECTED: All Models S/N 99-40585 thru 99-42712 (Eaton Manufacturing Date Code Stamped on Transmission 120198 thru 043099)

PURPOSE: A group of 4000 transmissions were produced with potential internal contamination which has resulted in accelerated wear and early failure. The cause of this problem has been identified as improper cleaning of an abrasive compound (aluminum oxide) off an internal part during the manufacturing process. Tests have shown a very small amount of the abrasive contaminant will destroy a transmission in only a few hours of operation (failure of a new transmission has occurred in 2-50 hours).

PARTS REQUIRED:
Order factory remanufactured transmission P/N 5025-10 or 5026-10 for replacement under warranty. Note that remanufactured transmissions within affected date code range will have an "N" or "R" stamped behind the date code to indicate remanufacturing.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1) Pull any new transmissions with the affected manufacturing date codes out of service parts stock and return to the factory for credit.

NOTE: Transmissions in service are being replaced under warranty only upon failure; this is not a recall program with 100% replacement (failure rate to date appears to be considerably less than 100%).

2)When transmission failure is suspected, check these symptoms:

(a) Tractor pulls to one side and/or transmissions are getting weak and the tractor is not pulling up hills.

Usually occurs with low hours on tractor (less than 100 hours).

(c) Transmission oil is dark black, thick consistency, smells burned and metallic particles may be visible (classic overheating due to internal wear and slippage).

(d) With this failure pattern, frequently both transmissions are failing almost simultaneously, so both transmissions should be checked.

3) Remove and replace the transmission. For transmission replacement procedure, refer to instructions attached to bulletin #9689.

4) With the transmission removed, one additional item should be inspected that in a few cases has contributed to transmission failures. The needle bearings on the gear axle cluster gear may have failed and this overloads the transmission and causes premature failure. Check the cluster gear for excessive end play or lateral movement indicating failed bearings. Confirm the bearing problem by draining the axle oil. If the oil is black, smells burned and has metallic particles, replace the axle along with the transmission.

WARRANTY COVERAGE:

Transmission replacement is covered under warranty as outlined in Advisory Bulletin #98104 dated 05-04-98. Axle replacement, if required, is covered by a three (3) year warranty.