View Full Version : My ship came in!
02-21-2004, 06:46 PM
Unfortunately,it sank before docking.
Here's the situation.
Customer who's trying to sell their home calls up.(I've already seen a bit of work going on there regarding their siding.They have a DryVit home.) I take care of their lawn as well all the shrubs,etc.,,
Anyway,they have a problem.The soil next to their home HAS to be 6" below where the DryVit starts.(The DryVit was below the soil before they had the repairs made) Well,the contractor who repaired the home moved the DryVit right above the footer,so the soil in the beds is about 4-5 inches above the bottom of the DryVit still.(They dug a trench around the home to keep the soil off.) They had the home inspected and the inspector told them the beds had to be 6" below where the DryVit starts and had to slope away from the home.(There goes the French drain idea)
After the customers leave,I start to take measurements.I run a line level from 6" below the DryVit to the edge of the beds in various locations.I dug a trench in these locations until I came up level.Now picture this.The beds would vary from 8-10" below the grassline.Basically a big mote(like around a castle) would be left to stay within specs.Also,all the shrub and huge holly trees would have to come out and be re planted(8-10" inches below the grassline in the bed)
Can you guys picture this?Any ideas I get from you?My only thoughts right now are to RUN the other way as fast as I can.
Also,one of the beds has the drive next to it.So the bed would then be 10" below the driveway in this spot because the soil is still within 6" of the DryVit there.
02-21-2004, 07:50 PM
I think I would ask Dryvit what were the recomendations on this
A little info from the other side
When EIFS continues below ground level, any opening in the finish could allow wood destroying organisms, such as termites, to enter through the insulated sheathing into the wood framing.
We often find the bottom lip is not properly finished and the insulated sheathing is actually exposed. EIFS should terminate 6" above the finished ground level and the bottom lip should be properly wrapped and sealed. This will allow a visual inspection of any wood destroying organism crawling up the outside of the foundation.
Some of the Pest Control Companies are refusing to issue a "Termite Letter" on any structure that has EIFS or slab insulation below grade.
02-21-2004, 08:07 PM
Thanks!That's great info.
The problem is I already know what needs to be done,I just can't figure a way to make it look decent.I gotta start 6" below the DryVit and slope it away from the home.Since the soil is still above the DryVit(even after the repair) that means the grass line is going to be waaaaaaay above the flower beds because of the slope.
I've been racking my brain.So far,the best method to me is to pull everything out(soil,shrubs,mulch) and start from scratch.Then re work the soil to meet code and have the water run away from the home.Then use white marble as mulch instead of wood.That way the bed won't appear as low.
Or I'm just gonna pass on this one.
02-21-2004, 08:40 PM
I think I would run away from this one. It sounds like since they are going to be selling their house they are looking for a cheap job and not a quality one. It may make you bad later down the road. JMHO
02-21-2004, 10:08 PM
"shrub and huge holly trees would have to come out "
Plant the shrub and holly somewhere else.
"Customer who's trying to sell their home "
Use stone to lightly cover the moat.
You could boarder the moat with boulders and plant Perennials against them,or use red twig or yellow twig Dogwood mixed with inkberri holly to accent the house
02-22-2004, 09:44 AM
If you want to do the work, give an ESTIMATE, not a bid. Tell them this is what you think it will cost, but only if everything goes right. It should be a T&M job, there's too much you can't see underground.
I would probably walk, if it were me though.:D
Can the grade slope away from the house 3-4', where you could then install a drain pipe? I could see a "lower level" terrace around the house, retained by a wall. That would be the "moat" you are talking about, only it would be 4' from the house, instead of all the way out to the edge of the bed...
Got any pics? Hard to visualize without pictures....
02-22-2004, 09:59 AM
i would skip this job
drivit is a great product however there have been many houses that have had it installed wrong and the company has been sued so much i am not sure how they r hanging on.
anyway they gave the recamendations to move the dirt down to cover there azz.
anything u do has the possibility to flood the house and could get u sued drivet will blame it on u and homeowners insurance will not pay for it unless they have flood insurance.
if they can pin it on u they will.
this was a poorley graded house to start with and what u said they want you to do to fix it sounds like a HUGE problen waiting to happen
just move on
02-22-2004, 11:38 AM
Thanks for the replies.The thought of getting sued over something that wasn't my fault to begin with has me wanting to tell them no.That's been on my mind as well.They could take the easy way out and sue me since they're having trouble selling their home anyway.
Anyway,o-so-n-so is coming by next week to look at with me.This has the potential to be a large sum job or a large sum nightmare.Also,the fact that this home is built on a slope means that some parts of the beds are ok.The fact that I have to remove so much soil in parts of the beds leaves me with an uneven bed in my mind.Ya know,high,then low,then back high again.
Here's a pic of the home,back last summer before any work was done to the DryVit.It's hard to get an idea from this perspective,because it looks fairly level in the pic.However,there is a two foot drop from front to rear and you can kinda see how much drop there is beyond the driveway.
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/410513/Carlile.jpg" width=614 height=461>
02-22-2004, 06:26 PM
Just a thought, what about building a swale that drains to the left of the house. It looks like there is plenty of fall there. Hard to tell, but it looks like something can be done to fix the problem.
02-22-2004, 10:56 PM
hmmm...That might work!A swale sounds like it may be the only solution.Never thought of putting one in a bed before.I'll give it a look with o-so-n-so and we'll see if that might work.
02-24-2004, 03:43 AM
Nick, I was actually thinking of building the swale 8-10' from the flower bed. Then you could regrade the flower bed to specs and wouldn't have water running or draining right next to the house. Maybe even put a 4" tile under the swale just to make sure.
02-24-2004, 02:52 PM
I'm afraid that won't work as they want the least amount of work possible done.Also,there'd be a noticeable dip in the lawn.Very noticeable.
Was thinking of the swale in the bed.Even though that's not what you meant,that won't work either.Plants would be planted right in the swale.
Going to look at it tomorrow.O-so-n-so has a pretty good idea if they'll go for it.
I was even thinking of putting in a pondless waterfall behind the drive,next to the house.Already a slope there and since we'd have to dig so far down anyway,it'd make a pretty good looking feature as you walk up the front door.
02-24-2004, 09:09 PM
I think I have this one figured out.
What I think happened is the contractor who repaired the DryVit made a serious mistake.They didn't adhere to code since the DryVit is still below grade in the front of the home.They should have raised it 6" above the soil and nothing would need to be done to the flower beds.Instead,they dug a trench around the home.
Now the homeowner is out the money to the contractor and wanted an easy fix .Well,it can't be done without seriously modifying the beds.My bet is that they hired a fly by night contractor.They'd have to redo all the DryVit to do it right.
This dawned on me this afternoon.I knew of another home that had to be repaired because of the same thing.The slope is almost exaclty layed out the same.The DryVit is 6" above the soil on this home though.Nothing has been done to the beds.
02-24-2004, 11:29 PM
You may or may not be wrong.
It all depends on where the framing of the house actually starts in relation to where the grade is. Chances are, the framing is slightly above where the DryVit is, within an inch or two. I doubt that the contractor, especially if they were a fly-by-night type, would waste time and money to lower the siding past where it needed to be.
I could be wrong, but I betcha a nickel the sill plate is right behind the the bottom of the DryVit. And I'm not at all familiar with DryVit.....
02-25-2004, 08:15 AM
Talked to another building contractor today.He told me the guys who repaired the DryVit could have used another material up to the DryVit or could have installed a membrane up on the DryVit to keep the soil from touching it.
The membrane sounds like the cheapest route.He said they've done this before and it passed inspection.He says the inspector just wants to keep the soil off the DryVit.
So,now I'm going to try to get the inspectors number from the homeowner and see if this will be acceptable to him.That would take care of having to redefine the beds.
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.