Performance upgrades for my truck?

[Barkleymut]

I have used a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 318 for the past 2 1/2 years. It has been very reliable with just enough power to keep up with traffic without flooring the gas at every intersection. But now I want an enclosed trailer, and since I now believe in getting the biggest of everything I want at least a 20 ft trailer maybe a 24 ft. Now my questions would my truck be able to pull this as is with no performance upgrades? I doubt it. Would a cat-back system help much? Would a new performance chip help much? Headers? New gears in the rear? Would these lessen the life of the engine or transmission? Would they help or hurt with mileage? As you can tell I don't know much about any of this stuff. Also could I put in the chip, or cat-back myself? If you have any suggestions either post them here or email me at Barkleymut@aol.com. Thanks a lot guys.

[guntruck]

The only significant improvement would be to change the gears. Most guys towing use 4:10's but you can even go lower, usually not with landscaping trailers though. As far as chips and catback systems yes they will help some but not enough to get what your looking for. good luck!!

[CCLC]

I have to agree with GUNTRUCK. We always order 4.10's in all of our trucks, HD radiators, and Transmission coolers. We feel that we use our trucks right to the edge of their capacity. The also must be reliable when snow plowing comes around so we don't keep them forever.

[KirbysLawn]

Do not put a chip in a gas engine unless you plan on running PREMIUM gas all of the time. What MPG do you get now? I would guess around 13 mpg running empty and 8-9 pulling a trailer.

I had the exact truck you have now except mine was a '96. I've told this story before, I was spending around $260-$280 a month on fuel back when it was $1.05 or so a gallon. I traded my truck in for a Ford F250 crew cab with a powerstroke diesel. My payments went up $100 a month and my fuel bills dropped $110 a month! Twice the truck at $10 less a month. With my diesel I get 16mpg empty, 20mpg highway, and 13mpg towing my enclosed trailer.

Also consider how the 1500 truck is going to handle a 20' loaded trailer. I see many gas station stops in your future with this set-up.

Just some thoughts.

Ray

[steveair]

hello,

For a trailer of that size your best bet will be a upgrade in your vehicle. First, the engine will not have the power you want pulling a enclosed trailer loaded with equipment along with the back of the truck being loaded with clippings, etc. Also, as everyone else has mentioned, mileage will way down, as the truck will be floored 3/4 of the time in order to pull that weight.

Also, a trailer of that magnitude will wear out a half ton pickup in no time. At min, a 3/4 ton would be a best bet, and then offcourse up from there. Diesel would be nice, but initial cost is high and may be out your range.

Even if you have to trade your truck in and take on the signifigant payment increase, I would imagine it will save you money in the long run as you will be in need of serious work on that truck if you do what you mentioned.

1500's are Ok for pulling around a boat on the weekends, taking a vacation with the trailer home, etc, but for serious work I would have to say go with a bigger truck/engine altogether and sell your current truck before you kill it.

steveair

[excel25]

Barkleymut, I had a 96 ram shortbed w/318 and stock rearend. when I bought my 20ft.enclosed trailer it did ok, but not great. ordered a 99 2500SC w/360 and 410 rear. pulled better, gas was killing my at 7.5mpg. I ordered a 2001 ford SC 4x4 diesel came in 3 weeks ago, AWESOME Great power and much better mpgs.

[luckylawnboy]

Get A CHEVY 3/4 Ton. If your pockets are deep get a New chevy HD with a Duramax Diesel.

[lawrence stone]

Depending on how much you use the truck on the highway you could change the gears to 5.13. You could go with a 4.54 ratio with no problem. You must have a OD trans in a 98 truck.

Make sure you install a limited slip if you have a open diff now.

5.13 x .75= 3.84 final ratio

4.54 x .75= 3.40 final ratio

Isuzu npr's have a 5.13 ratio and they are rated to haul
6000 lbs in the bed with a 350 chevy small block.

[Greenkeepers]

Luckylb-

What difference does the Chevy 3/4 make? Any 3/4 ton with the right setup will pull it. If your looking for efficiency they you'll have to go with the diesel. I have a 99 Ram 2500 w/ 360 and 4:10 gears and 5 speed. It would pull it without a problem but my gas mileage will be even worse than it is now with a 16' open trailer.

Mike
Greenkeepers

[landscaper3]

1st a chip, we put them in our 97 4WD Fords with the Powerstokes and got up to 70hp at wheel and almost 200lbs tourque but gas figures will be lower. My neighbor has a 97 2500 4WD Dodge with the the 5.8liter and he put a chip and filter and dual exhuast and runs about 60hp more and 80lbs tourque wont know till December when we go back to Dyno the trucks but he siad the Chip alone made towing night and day. And did I mention he told me he gained 2mpg out of these mods so a year or so they will pay for themselves.

[thelawnguy]

First off, there is no chip for the Dodge available-you must replace the entire PCM if its available for a 98; some post-95 years the PCM is not available. And when you do this, there will be two warnings in the box, first that you should not tow with the performance PCM, and second your vehicle will require 93 octane fuel. There is no way to set ignition timing on the Dodge, it is preset in the PCM and the performance PCM is too aggressive timing curve to be able to tow without having the truck grenade due to preignition. Turning the distributor only changes the fuel injection timing-not good.

Before getting rid of the truck go to a junkyard and get an axle with 3.92 ratio (the only optional ratio available that year) for that truck. You can get steeper gears aftermarket but they will require a carrier change also-now youre getting into bigger $$$ . If u like how it goes keep it if not trade it for a 3/4 ton with a larger engine. I would go with some kind of diesel with the size trailer you anticipate pulling.

A catback system will not help as it will increase power at higher rpms but sacrifice torque down low where you need it.

[bob]

Heres an easy upgrade that I did. I installed over-springs on the rear leaf springs of my K1500. They are rated at 2500lbs. The truck doesn't sag with heavy loads anymore.

[landscaper3]

Lawnguy thanks for the chip info he must have changed his whole PCM. I didnt relize Dodge didnt have a slip chip like G.M and Ford. Good info on junkyard gears.

[mdb landscaping]

i agree with lucklawnboy. chevy all the way. the duramax rules

[beck]

I don't know if your factory warranty is still in effect, but by adding aftermarket accesories it may void the warranty.

That is why I am most likely going to upgrade next season to a 3/4 ton from a 1/2 ton, rather than adding accesories and voiding the warranty. I am not sure if i will get the diesel or not.

[John DiMartino]

I would eventually buy a bigger truck,most enclosed trailers with a couple ZTR's and all the trimmings will weigh in the neighborhood of 6-7K lbs.to make matters worse most encloesed trailers have a higher tongue weight than open trailers since they are heavier.If you decide to keep your truck,put an add a leaf,or Hellwig suspension helpers out back,and keep those rear brakes adjusted at all times.If you upgrade,get the Cummins Turbo diesel with 6 spd trans,its a bear,very underated at 245hp/505ft lbs.Of those dyno'd,most have put out over 600 ft lbs stock to the wheels,this will move your trailer out easily.Ford and Gm deisels are good choices too,but they are not a Cummins.Gm does have sweet Allison auto though,in the new HD.Do not bother to change the gears until you tow with it,see fi you can handle driving it with that truck-if so -change the rear end ratio,and install the biggest trans oil cooler you can fit.

[KirbysLawn]

Adding accessories does not void a warranty! If a component fails as a direct result of the added accessory then the warranty would not cover that item, but it does not void the entire warranty and the dealer must prove that the added accessory caused the failure.

Changing gears will only add to your fuel consumption problem. If you are going with that large of a trailer give serious consideration to a diesel, any diesel.

[Nathan]

I have to agree with everyone else that a 1/2 ton does not cut it for a work truck. I think the only reason a 1/2 ton was ever built was for construction workers, homeowners and people too cheap to buy a real truck. Something that most people don't realize is that there is a huge difference in the weight capacity of rear ends and braking system. You will burn out brakes very quickly with that big trailer and if you plan on hauling much wet grass in the truck you will eventually wear out your rear axle bearings.

Sell the truck and get as old of a 3/4 ton that you can afford.

[Cutter1]

I agree with everyone....1/2 tons are for the weak at heart. Buy big or don't buy at all. Hey they are all business expenses, so why not?? I have a 3/4 ton chevy with a 454. Its a tank, but gas mileage sucks!! I will get a diesel next truck.