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Scenic Lawnscape
03-24-2004, 09:58 AM
how do you guys secure the timbers on the first row. also when you have a row that is 3 or 4 timbers high do you put a support board behind it and screw the timbers to it. Thanks for all the help

Rich

landscapingpoolguy
03-24-2004, 10:16 AM
i didnt know anyone was still using landscape timbers...drill a hole stake it down or can even use rebar.

Chuck

D Felix
03-24-2004, 11:21 AM
I don't use "landscape timbers". What I call landscape timbers are about 3 1/2" thick and have two opposite sides that are rounded.

What I do use are treated 6x6's. Get a base prepped (excavated, compacted, compacted crushed limestone, leveled), set your first course so it will be below grade, level it, then use 1/2" rebar to pin it in place. Preferrably 24" rebar, but 18" will suffice. All other courses are secured with 8" timber screws. They cost a little more than 60d spikes (12"), but they more than make up for it in the amount of time spent driving them. If you use spikes, you need to drill a 3/8" hole through both timbers before you drive the spike, or else the spike will tend to wander out the front or back of the timber following the grain...

FWIW, I try not to use timbers at all. Compared to pre-cast block, they have a very short life-span....


Dan

Scenic Lawnscape
03-24-2004, 03:13 PM
its what the customer wants:)

kris
03-24-2004, 06:31 PM
use dead men to tie the wall back.

Scenic Lawnscape
03-24-2004, 06:34 PM
ok laugh away but what is a deadmen??

kris
03-24-2004, 07:15 PM
Why would I laugh?

Installing a deadman in a wall can seem like a lot of extra work but it is vital to the strength of a timber wall. A deadman is basically a horizontal anchor that holds the wall to the soil it is supporting. Place a deadman about every 4-8' feet apart depending on the height and width of the wall. The anchor itself is made of two 3' long lengths of timber connected in a 'T'. See picture. Place deadmen every third row up a wall. I use to even put "fake" deadman wherever 2 pieces of timber meet up.

on edit -never install timbers so that end joints align. You will most likely need to cut several timbers so that you can stagger them. Secondly, you will need to set the rows with a 1/2" batter. That is, each row should sit back 1/2" from the row below it. This is perhaps a little bit of overkill when you said your only going 3-4 high but something to keep in mind for the future ... we haven't done a timber wall in years but a well built wall can last 20 years.

kris
03-24-2004, 07:27 PM
Sorry -I Lightened the pic up for you..hope this helps

leemac
03-24-2004, 09:23 PM
On 6x6 timbers stake down first course with 24" rebar 4'o/c-----deadmen everyother course 12'apart if wall is over 4' high---anything higher should be checked by an enginner for load.

EagleLandscape
03-27-2004, 11:50 PM
Do the stakes go infront of the first base beam? Or theough it?

kris
03-28-2004, 07:40 AM
Re-bar through it.

boxsky
03-27-2007, 12:34 AM
I know this thread is old. However I have a client who needs a wood wall. I never done wood. Block no problem.

Would i be over my head with the wood wall? W
What happened to the pics?

PaperCutter
03-27-2007, 08:13 AM
boxsky- check out this link:

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/retainingwall/details.pdf

Should tell you what you need to know about wood walls.

Dave