View Full Version : Rusty oil pan leak
04-16-2004, 08:15 PM
Ive got a 97 F350 with Powerstroke. It was a plow /salt truck before I got it last year. Anyways, a couple of days ago I noticed that it was leaving drips in the drive. Today I got under it and thought I had a leaky rear main until I cleaned the pan off. After getting all the grime off the bottom, I see that the oil is just seeping through the pan near the rear edge. I knew the pan was badly rusted but Ive never seen or heard of an oil pan rusting through before. After a cleaned it, it no longer leaves drips, its puddles now. My temporary solution is to smear some high temp RTV on it but I know thats not permanent. Any ideas on this, short of pulling the pan and replacing it? Welding, JBWeld, Sealer???
04-16-2004, 08:28 PM
Go Ahead and replace the Pan! I have dealt with quite a few of these, and the pan will rust through. Jb weld and the such only hold for a short period of time. I tried to fix one numerous times just to see if i could, and somethings worked but for short periods up to a month. It isn't worth the cost of a new engine if you run it low on oil.
Eddy Landscape Design
04-16-2004, 08:29 PM
Rusty oil pans were/are common in Fords. Had to replace a few myself. Don't waste your time with short term fixes, just replace the pan.
04-16-2004, 08:30 PM
Damnnn Eddyyy, you beat me to it.
04-16-2004, 08:33 PM
no perm fix other than to replace it. Its so rusted that welding is useless, other than starting the oil on fire and collecting the insurance. Same with any kind of glue or sealer, it must be absolutely clean for it to stick, so rule that out. So just grit yur teeth and pull the pan and replace it. Its not that uncommon of a repair with trucks from the salt belt.
04-16-2004, 11:13 PM
Replace it. But trust me it is not an easy job. Go over to Plowsite and you will see a write up done on a 95 F250. If you do not have the motivation have the dealership do it.
04-18-2004, 01:26 PM
i fixed one of mine with Pc7 on a ford with 460. lasted 2 years till i pulled the engine then i ground it off and brazed then shut but I could have left the Pc7 it was still solid and holding
04-18-2004, 08:25 PM
What is PC7 and where do I get it?
Ive already got some JBWeld from a project last year but if the PC7 is more suited for the job than thats the way I want to go.
I dont like temporary fixes but at this point, I would like to keep the truck on the road. If I can do something that will last until fall when Im not as busy with it, then I can get it to a shop or pull it in my garage and do it right.
04-19-2004, 04:03 AM
when you finaly do put a new pan on. smear new grease on after every oil change an it will last longer
04-19-2004, 07:56 PM
[Ace hardware (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1409482)
it is 2 part epoxy it very strong. it can be machined I've used it to fix a mower where the conecting rod went though the block on a old Briggs Engine. It in almost every auto parts store here also ace hardware has it.
Drain the oil clean the area make sure you get all rust off use wire brush and sand paper then use some lacquer thinner to make sure there is no oil. mix it on piece of cardboard so it nice grey color. put it on let it set up 12- 18 hours before you put oil back in. make sure you clean tools right away or else you will need a grinder to get it off. It also sticks to your hands.
PC-7 EPOXY PASTE
Bonds most everything to anything
Heavy Duty Non-Drip Paste
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As a Filler:
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PC-7 ® is a tough job Epoxy formulation developed for maximum bonding power. Components A (grey) and B (black), when mixed, react to form a bond of tremendous strength. PC-7 ® formulation provides extended working time, giving user ample time to complete larger jobs, reposition work or make changes. High wet grab or tack of PC-7 epoxy paste ® makes overhead and sidewall work easy without drip or sag. PC7 epoxy paste ® demonstrates excellent chemical resistance to mild acids, caustics, detergents, gasoline, fuel oil, salt, and fresh water. PC7 epoxy paste ® will not bond to wax paper, TEFLON ®, polyethylene, and some soft plastics. Test area when in doubt.
Approximately equal amounts of A and B by volume, variations of either compound as high as 20% will not affect bond strength. When desirable, one part of A to two parts of B may be used to increases elasticity (expansion joints,etc.). In cold or cool temperatures, place PC-7 epoxy paste containers near heat prior to using. PC-7 ® mixes and spreads easier at 80°F than at 40°F. Any smooth flat surface is an excellent surface for mixing and working. A small putty knife or flexible artist's spatula are excellent tools for both mixing and applying PC-7®.
Using separate knives (remove amount needed from cans), mix equal parts of A (lt. grey) and B (black) on flat surface until uniform in color. Surfaces to be bonded must be free of dirt, oil, rust, etc. Denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner are excellent for removing oil, fingerprints, etc. Rough up surfaces for best results. Normally, no vice or clamp needed, Prop or tape heavy objects to a wall or ceiling. At 70°F (21°C) PC-7 epoxy paste will remain workable in excess of one hour and cures for service overnight. Cure will be much faster at higher temperature than at low.
Apply PC-7 ® in any thickness to both sides of surface and bring together firmly. Be careful to insure that ample PC-7 epoxy paste ® remains between the contact surfaces. To bridge or reinforce larger holes, screen wire or glass cloth is excellent. To smooth out work, dip tool in lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol. After cure, paint, drill, machine, sand, file, or saw PC-7 ®. ADVISE – Do not subject to sustained heat in excess of 200° (93°C). PC-7 ® has strength far exceeding most materials on which used. Speed cure with artificial heat.
AUTO-Seal : Gas tank, radiator and oil pan leaks. Bond: rear-view mirror brackets and mouldings. Fill: Holes, cracks and dents (metal or fiberglass). Rebuild: Steering wheels, etc.
CONTRACTOR-Bond: Re-bar, firring strips, anchors, brackets, plates, studs, thresholds to masonry. Patch holes and cracks. Repair cemetery headstones. Attach junction, switch, and fuse boxes and baseboard heating panels to wall.
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RECREATION-Repair boats, R.V.'s, sporting goods and toys.
SHELF LIFE-Well in excess of two years.
04-20-2004, 07:59 AM
Originally posted by turfmower
[Ace hardware (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1409482)
ADVISE – Do not subject to sustained heat in excess of 200° (93°C). PC-7 ® has strength far exceeding most materials on which used.
That sentence kinda bothers me. Other than that, it sounds alot like JBWeld.
Someone at work was suggesting something called Magnasteel, also a two part putty with hardener.
04-20-2004, 09:43 PM
never had any trouble with it it better the JB weld I have used it on a block of a briggs engine and if you oil is hoter that 200 degs you have lot more problems than a leaky old pan. touch the pan right after you drove truck it not that hot and oil pan listed on repairs. I had it on my oil pan for over 2 years. this is a putty like.
11-03-2004, 12:48 AM
Both my trucks are now sealed up with JB weld, fixed during oil change. I used brake cleaner to clean up the oil. There are epoxies from the same people who make the socks for soaking up and containing oil spills. They claim you can use this to stop a running leak in a drum. Havent had a chance to try it but we have it available at the auto componets plant I work at
11-05-2004, 04:28 PM
I did the JB Weld thing to my pan as a temporary fix but its holding up real well. I took the extra time to prep the surface real good and it has payed off. I hope it contiues to hold. I checked into the cost of removing and replacing an oil pan on a 97 F350 Powerstroke and I just about had a stroke. Just let me say that doing an R & R of the pan is now my last resort.
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