Adding trailer brakes

[jeffyr]

I wanted to add brakes to my tandem axel trailer. I could use advice.......I've seen them in the Northern Tool catalogue for $100-$150. Is there a better place to get them ? Is this a driveway project ? It doesn't look hard, but I've never done it so I can't say for sure. Can I get away with brakes on 1 axel or is there a reason to do both. I have plenty of brakes in the Chevy C30 to stop it, but as the truck gets older, I have been using my Ram 1500 here and there(I know it's only a 1500) and the brakes aren't cutting it.
Any advice would be appreciated.

jeffyr

[gorrell]

How old is your trailer? If it has some age on it, this might be time to trade it in on one that has brakes. By the time you get the brakes and brake controller installed you'll probably be near the $400 mark. I personally would not install the system myself, but if you're more mechanically inclined than I am, go for it. My opinion, I'd trade units. Thanks, Lynn

[Eric ELM]

You will have to change the hubs on the back axle and put on the brake system and new hubs that will have the disk for the magnets to grab. It involves taking off the axle nut and bearings, bolting on the brake assembly, putting the bearings in the new hub, putting the hub on and adjusting the axle nut. Then hook up the wires to the other brake wires. You won't need to change the brake controller as Lynn said since you already have one for the existing 1 axle brake system. I hope this helps.

[jeffyr]

Thanks for the advice. The trailer does not have any brakes now, and I don't have a controller. But even if I did upgrade to a new trailer with brakes, I would have to purchase the controller. So it may be worth it to put brakes on 1 axel anyway. Northern Tool has break kits for the 3500lb axle for somewhere around $150 and the controller for $75-100.

jeffyr

[Eric ELM]

I have never seen a tandem axle trailer with no brakes. I guess I was wrong Lynn, sorry. Most new trucks are pre-wired for trailer brakes, so you just mount the controller and plug in the controller to the plug to the back. If not, you have to tap into power, a ground, and then run a wire to the brake light switch to activate the trailer brakes. You then need to run a wire back to the back plug for the trailer lights from the controler and the wires out of the controller are all marked. It's so easy, even I can do this. :)

I would get brakes on that trailer ASAP for your saftey and saftey of others.

[Runner]

I'm with Lynn. If you don't do this, atleast go to where you bought your trailer (if new) or go to a trailer sales location. Sometimes, they'll give you a brake axle all set up for about $150 - $200.00 with a trade in of your old axle.

[TLS]

jeffyr,

Is this one of those tandem trailers with small snowmobile trailer tires? If it is, there aren't any brake kits for these. I also haven't heard of a tandem axle trailer w/o some type of brakes. If its a home-made job, you should maybe think of getting a new trailer. This is what Lynn was talking about Runner, not just trading axles. There are nice 16x7 trailers out there for (what I have heard) $895 and up to $1795 for a good one. You don't say what you are hauling on it, but if you have troubles stopping, it must be pretty heavy. If you dont want a brake controller, you could always go with surge brakes (just don't back up hills that much). As for adding brakes, be cautious, There are quite a few axle manufacturers out there and identifying yours may be difficult or impossible. You may be better off buying two new axles w/brakes, if your trailer itself is in good shape.

[jeffyr]

The trailer is a 6.5 x 12 Doolittle. It was open and it now has steel and wood 4ft sides. I bought it used a few years back not knowing all that much about trailers, which may explain why I wound up with it. It has 15" rims and full size tires. Gross weight with all equipment is around 2500-2800 lbs. Like I said, the Chevy C30 has been stopping it fine since I bought it, but the Dodge 1500 complains.

jeffyr

[TLS]

If your not grossing 3000lbs, you dont need trailer brakes. Save your money and just live with it. Maybe try to improve the Dodge's brakes ie: more agressive linings, cut rotors and drums, adjust up rear drums properly.

I don't want to sound anti-safety, but 2800 lbs is nothing and any 1/2 ton truck should be able to stop it reasonably. I just think you will end up spending more to convert to brakes than the trailer is worth.

P.S. : The name brand of the trailer is becoming of it!!

[jeffyr]

Outch...That last jab hurt dixie !

although appropriate.


The guy I bought it from used it to haul and store a couple of motorcycles, so it was only seeing 1k or so. I guess that is why he didn't get brakes. As for me ????????????????????????????
jeffyr

[John DiMartino]

Jeff,if you put brakes on,do both axles,if you dont you end up having the controller to tight,and smoke,and flat spot the axle with the brakes,Ive been there.It is really bad when empty.I have put a few sets of brakes on,and got the parts from Northern.They were the cheapest i could find,and they are dexter parts too,same ones who make the axle.They will make a huge difference ion stopping distance on the 1500.If i were you Id go ahead and put them on,its not hard at all,and if the trailer s in good shape and your going to have it while its worth it.If you dont,youll spend more money on rotors,shoes,pads,and drums on the Ram than the trailer brakes cost-and it still wont stop any better.If you dont send the 400 on the trailer,you'll spend that and more on the truck's brakes is what im trying to tell you.Look at all the owners manual.trucks arent meant to stop more than 1500 lbs of trailer,any more shouls have its own brakes.If the trailer is beat or is a little small,upgrade now and save some aggravation.Buy a brake controller with a manual override,so you can activate it manually if necessary,its helpful when setting your brake controller's power to match the weight.

[Runner]

Yes, there is such a creature as a brakeless trailer. When I purchased my trailer, it didn't have brakes on it. It's an 18'X 76" landscape trailer with a ladder type frame and had the liftgate (nice one) included. It has 15" wheels with a Chevy/Buick 5 bolt pattern. (Now has chrome wagons) But when I purchased this trailer, the brake axles were $150.00 extra with trade. Oh yeah, it also had the safety chains the size of a dog chain on it. Just a formality that it even has to have chains to sell. One of the first things I did (besides put real chains on) was to go over the trailer and reweld all the welds. They were all mig welded, one side too hot and the other side too cold, so I arc welded all the steel properly. I found out later that these particular trailers were built down in Texas and the company works with a federal grant to subsidize the labor. The government picks up about half the labor bill, so this outfit doesn't have a whole lot wrapped up into these trailers anyway. They just have all their material cut in advance, put it in a jig, and have Pedro on one side, and Juan on the other, and let them have at it! (I SURE don't mean to offend anyone, just having a little fun):) But anyway, I'm sure that's how ALOT of these trailers are manufactured.

[mowerman90]

I just put brakes on my 6x12 single axel trailer this weekend. Wow, what a difference it made. It wasn't hard to install at all, just take your time and follow instructions.

[bob]

Thats a job I wouldn't try. But if your going to do it, you might as well do both axles. You'll be pleased with a trailer braking system. My first trailer didn't have any, all my other ones did.

[Likestomow]

I currently have surge brakes on my trailer, but am going to electic on the next trailer. The guy making it says I'll have nothing but problems with electric brakes.

Anyone here have much trouble with electric brakes?

[Alan]

No problems with electric brakes other than you have to adjust the controller when you go from empty to loaded. That's no big deal, takes about 10 seconds once you learn how to do it. Surge brakes can be bitchy if you have to back up any sort of hill and if they get sticky you may get into trouble before you can get enough braking to kick the surge system into action, particularly on wet pavement. Years ago the electric brakes were pretty poor, but they have come a long ways now.

[Tomslawncare1]

Jeff, I just put new brakes on my Doolittle trailer. I like you bought a 96 12' Doolittle landscape trailer back in 96 (used) from some guy that decided he was going to an enclosed trailer. His father bought him this one and he didn't like it. My gain. So I bought it and did the same thing you did. I put 3/4" exterior plywood on both sides and the front 5' high. I then put metal tubing across the top (like an old covered wagon) and had a frien of mine (who does commercial sewing) make me a tanue cover for it. It works great. Garage on wheels. But anyway I just this year had ele. brakes put on for a cost of $390.72. This included two new rims and hubs due to the wierd bolt pattern. They work great. Sometimes I'm a little light so they lock up on me even when I adjust them all the way down. Still don't know why I waited so long. Hope it helps.

[jeffyr]

mowerman,
Where did you buy yours and how much did they cost you ? Did your new bolt pattern match the old ?

Tom,

Thank you. It sounds like you had a shop install yours. Is that price with the control box ? Where did you have it installed (trailer shop or mechanic) ? Sounds like we have the same trailer. I have a round tube on top and square vertical suports. I had made a cover as well from some awning material and put snaps on it, but it didn't hold up. What do you use to secure your cover ?

jeffyr

[MJB]

My 16ft L&M came without brakes too. I got it used in 93.
Empty weight 1900lbs Im carrying another 2800. I need brakes bad too. I'm not ready to try to trade it for another I like it other than the brakes, or lack of...

I'm going to wait until Feb to do it though.

[John DiMartino]

After you put them on,you'll be mad at yourself for waiting so long.When set up correctly,I think mine stops as quick or quicker with the trailer than without.Most bolt patterns are universal,like the 5 on 5,that most trailers come with.Measure across any 2 lugsthat are farthest apart,that gives you the size of the pattern.a 5 0n 4 1/2 is 5 lugs with 4 1/2" spacing.

[Tomslawncare1]

Jeff, Yes I did have a shop put the brakes on. It's a Scag dealer in East Cannan CT called "Crane & Sons". This did not include the brake controller. I already had one for towing my 31' travel trailer.
As far as securing the cover to the top. It really looks like a covered wagon. I painted the the wood and had the black vinyl cover fitted to the top. The guy used 3/4 inch elec. conduit bent into shape to raise the ceiling to about 6' 3" in the center. He fastened the tubes to the inside of the side walls, one every 2'. Then he stretched the black vinyl over these tubes. He secured the vinyl on the outside of the wood by installing snaps to the vinyl and wood. (Just like the old style tanue covers you see snapped right to the side of pick up trucks). He charged me $300.00 to do it. It's been on there almost 3 years now. This will be it's 3rd winter with it.

[mowerman90]

Jeffyr,

I bought mine from the dealer I got the trailer from. The bolt pattern was the same. New brake drums and hubs, seals, backing plate with shoes, magnets etc.,and a deluxe controler for $228.00 including tax. It took me about 1/2 day to install. All I supplied was about 50ft of #12 wire.

[jeffyr]

Mowerman, John, & Tom,

Thanks for your advice. Over the winter I think this may be a project. It's nice to know that I now know a couple of people that have done it and have some support if I hit a snag.


jeffyr