View Full Version : pavers on concrete

04-27-2004, 11:56 PM
anybody ever lay pavers on top of a concrete pad? it is in in perfect condition(level, no cracks). the only problem i see is edging it is already 3-4 inches above ground level. if i add pavers it will be even higher and what kind of edging would work. ive done sidewalks and patios before using plastic edging and concrete but i dont see this working unless i backfill. any suggestions?

steve in Pa.
04-28-2004, 07:17 AM
glue your outside soldier course around the perimeter of concrete pad, let your soldier course set before starting on the rest of the patio. no glue required on the rest of patio.

D Felix
04-28-2004, 09:17 AM
You could do that, but you will probably end up with standing water on the inside of the pavers, which will lead to damage in the winter from freeze/thaw.

Best bet is to use steel paver edging and a PAT (powder actuated tool, i.e.- a Remington hammer) to drive spikes/nails/pins into the concrete. This will still cause the water to back up, but is not water tight like gluing would be.

You will want to backfill to the level of the pavers regardless, lest you have a tripping/twisted ankle hazard.


04-28-2004, 06:07 PM
We have installed over concrete before. I would suggest drilling some core holes in concrete for drainage. Then you will need to use a fabric over the holes to keep sand base from flowing out.

04-28-2004, 07:05 PM
thanks for the suggestions, do i really need a sand base? i was planning on laying them directly on the concrete. as i said the pad is nearly perfect.

04-28-2004, 10:44 PM
Felix and Foz got it right and yes you still need a 1" sand base. For the pavers to interlock properly the sand must work up from the bottom as well as down from the top when you sweep it in.


04-29-2004, 12:18 AM
Also, you can put some weep holes in the mortar (with fabric to contain the sand). Easy to do while the mortar is wet.

MD Land Management
05-05-2004, 12:08 PM
This is becoming a hot topic for homeowners not wanting to rip out the old concrete because they don not have the money. I just attended some ICPI courses in Feb. The recommend Gluing the outside edge, drilling weep holes in the old concrete, then filter fabric then 1 inch of sand. Now you are ready to set your pavers. As for the water fact I would put the new polymeric joint sand so most of the water will run off instead of penetrate, some will still penetrate, but the weep holes will take care of that. Now backfill the edges so you don't kill yourself walking over the edge. Good Luck

MD Landscape Management

05-05-2004, 12:41 PM
I have a customer who just bought a home with this installed.Instead of using pavers,brick tile was installed on top of the concrete walk and grouted.Looks great and only raised the height about 1/2".

05-06-2004, 10:54 AM
Great idea but i think in my climate one winter would crack the mortar or tiles. what do you think?

05-06-2004, 12:52 PM
I have no idea.Gets pretty cold down this way as well.I'll try to get a pic today when I finish up over there.

Rex Mann
05-06-2004, 08:00 PM
Pavers over concrete. We do it all the time. Sometimes we use a mortar/thinset as an edge restraint. Sometimes we use an adhesive. It really depends on the situtation.

As for the ICPI recommending weep holes, that information is accurate. However, that is not for a patio or sidewalk area. The weep holes are mandatory when you have a concrete "leave-out". Picture a new concrete street, that will have paver crosswalks. They will "leave-out" part of the cement thickness. So there is a cement base. Basically they have built a concrete bathtub. Where can or will the water go? This is where the weep holes come into play. If you have weep holes a geo-textile is a must use. Or the sand will will run out the holes or worse yet, clog them up.

Sand over the concrete?.............About 50-50 of the time. We will use it if the concrete is not perfect. We use from 1/2 to 1 inch. Once again, depends on the job.


Rex Mann

"It's All We Do, All Day, every Day"

our web site (http://rmstonescaping.com)

05-06-2004, 09:12 PM
Well,I ran off and forgot the camera.Sorry.I was in a hurry today.Luckily I took the mowers.
Gotta go that way again tomorrow,so I'll TRY to remember the digital cam.

05-06-2004, 11:46 PM
Have you considered wet laying clay bricks or bluestone? Then you will have a solid surface for water to runoff. It is much more appropriate than forcing concrete pavers in what is not a good application.

I just don't get the fixation with concrete paver products. I see people glueing them to walls, stair risers, concrete pads, and everything else. They are fine when they are dry laid as a surface, but after that they start looking like Mickey Mouse jobs in my opinion.

Does anyone use mortar beds and joints any more? Sometimes they are the right thing to do.

MD Land Management
05-07-2004, 12:47 AM
Growin, Yep I have seen so many tile overlays in my area here in southern jersey and it looks great when first installed, alittle rock salt and ice forget about it the customer would be wishing they never did it! Try to talk the customers into ripping it all out thats the best bet. Give them a good waranty too with your work that will really sell the products. We usually give a 2 year waranty sometimes even 3 years, I wouldn't give any waranty on any tile overlays. Good Luck


MD Landscape Management

05-09-2004, 07:35 PM
couldnt you mortar the pavers the concrete then mortar the joints like a mortared stone walk?