View Full Version : Moving Trees

Randy J
06-21-2004, 07:47 PM
I have about 5 10' - 15' trees to move with a tree spade. I'm thinking the best time of year to move them would be late winter, before they come out of dormacy. Would that sound correct?

D Felix
06-21-2004, 09:25 PM
What kind of trees?

Usually most tree digging is done in very early spring, before buds break, or very, very soon after. There are some trees that are only dug in the fall.

I assume they are deciduous, what is the caliper size on them? Measure diameter 6" up from the ground, that is the caliPer measurement, anytime you see caliBer, that usually refers to guns.:p


Randy J
06-21-2004, 10:23 PM
Hey Dan, they're some variety of oak. I'd guess the caliper size to be about 4 - 5 inches or so. I'll try to measure here sometime soon.

06-21-2004, 11:23 PM
we do 2 digs a year...spring and fall.

Randy J
06-22-2004, 09:55 AM
I would think spring would be the best as the tree is getting ready to start growth, is that correct Kris?

06-22-2004, 09:57 AM
Generally, oaks transplant better in the early spring, at least in the Northeast.

lawn jockey
06-22-2004, 11:48 PM
Oaks a better to be spaded in the spring,they bud alot later than most trees and loose leaves alot later also

06-23-2004, 01:18 AM
If your plants - in general - start to go iinto dormancy around October or November, I'd try autumn anyway, even with an oak.

Don't your temperatures start dipping that time of year in your area too?

Major root growth for trees is usually around October to December.

Waiting until spring means hacking into a larger root system.

Your area my be different, but waiting till spring here, means driving onto wetter soil - more mess. But that's not always an issue.

Fall transplant means replanting and getting the roots started in the cool season, so the trees are ready to strut their stuff the next season instead of just hanging in there.

If they still are holding leaves in fall, spray them down with one of those foliage sealants like an antidessicant. In a few weeks, the leaves will drop anyway.

Randy J
06-23-2004, 09:08 AM
Hey MD, that makes sense. We to start cooling off late September or October. It makes sense that would be the major root growing time of year, just like turfgrass. I'll try to set it up for that time. What kind of root stimulant do you find beneficial?

06-23-2004, 07:38 PM
I've never used a root stimulant. I just make sure to keep the rootball moist and keep mulch on top. Even if it rains for water, mulch helps prevent soil compaction from rain, and insulates the soil a bit, slightly increasing the cool season root growth period.

I never fertilize at planting. Fertilizer means bigger healthier leaves, which will be very thirsty for water from a fairly small root system next year. I'd rather have moderate growth than fast growth the first year.

Randy J
06-23-2004, 08:08 PM
thank you very much.

06-24-2004, 01:33 AM
we dug all trees in fall/winter except sycamore and somethin else....cant remember, but only those 2 were dug in spring. i wanna say beech but i could be wrong.

D Felix
06-26-2004, 10:15 AM
You realize that if the trees are 4 to 5 inches in caliper measurement, you will need a spade that is at least 50 inches, right? A 60" spade would be better....

A spade that size is usually truck mounted, so that means even more $$$ you will be looking at spending...

If you are moving them around on your property, that obviously will be cheaper than moving them to a different property.... But, it will be cheaper (and better, IMHO) to move the existing trees rather than to cut them down and replace them with either smaller ones or similiar sized ones.....

HTH. Sounds like everyone else has told you everything you need to know.:)