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alpine692003
08-31-2004, 09:29 PM
Welp, I have aeration jobs lined up for the month of sept. Now, I have a question.

When you guys aerate, do you throw down grass seed, fertilizer then aerate or do you aerate, then throw down grass seed, then fertilizer?

If you do the latter method, wouldn't you step over the aeration goose droppings?

Premo Services
08-31-2004, 09:33 PM
1. Core aeration
2. Use spreader tp distribute the seed at the rate recommended on label, sometimes if it is bare, I will put some seed in the area before aeration.
3. Apply starter fertilizer to areas.
Yes you do step on the "goose droppings" but it helps to break them up.

alpine692003
08-31-2004, 09:34 PM
Ah okay.. Starter fertilizer or 29-3-4 fert?

firststarkid
08-31-2004, 09:38 PM
Starter Fertilizer definetly. Here is another Idea Trying offering spreading compost on the yards before you aerate you will make more money and greater looking lawn and the most important better smelling yards(HAHAHAHAHA). JK

alpine692003
08-31-2004, 09:45 PM
i see, i heard of spreading manure on it..

Shuter
08-31-2004, 10:33 PM
My customers have two options. 1 - aerate only and 2 aerate and overseed (which costs more). Some pick one and some pick 2. I amazes me that the customers that pick #1 are actually living in homes that costs about $800,000, but they are saving money. I get them in the Spring by calling the service lawn overseeding.

Stripper
09-04-2004, 01:46 AM
What's the going rate in your area for aeration/aeration and overseeding?

Soupy
09-04-2004, 02:12 AM
Like Shuter we offer both, but we do ours in the fall. We charge around $12 per 1,000 sq ft. for core Aeration and another $12 per K for seed and fert. We have a $60 miniumum.

We use a tow behind Aerator for the large areas of the lawn and a Ryan walk behind for the tight areas. We double aerate all lawns. This is by far our most profit per hour service.

pcnservices
09-04-2004, 09:19 AM
Originally posted by Premo Services
1. Core aeration
2. Use spreader tp distribute the seed at the rate recommended on label, sometimes if it is bare, I will put some seed in the area before aeration.
3. Apply starter fertilizer to areas.
Yes you do step on the "goose droppings" but it helps to break them up.
Like Premo said, but you can also interseed and use an interseeder or slicer instead of the drop spreader. The slicer will loosen up the thatch and bury those seeds under the thatch. It will also break up those plugs you pulled when you aerated.
I use a 12-12-12 or 13-13-13 starter fertilizer - whichever is available at the time.
Good Luck
PC

jbequer
09-13-2004, 10:27 AM
It appears that my favorite aeration method is under discussion here. It always raises a temptest in a teapot....but, here goes. We are talking about our old friend, surfactants/wetting agents. Does this approach work? From my years of experience, yes....if done correctly. First, let me explain that there are a number of various surfactants on the market hidden under brand names that do not spell out what they are. The straight forward, organic one that I have used for years can be purchased on-line from www.nitron.com. It is listed in the catalog as Nitron/A-35. This product is poured full strength into a hose end sprayer set to deliver one tablespoon per gallon. Easy to do. A gallon will last a long time for the average lawn/garden.
Let's discuss the various types of soil compaction:

1. There is normal soil compaction such as that left by heavy construction equipment. In this case, topsoil is usually added and grass seed or sod put in place. If a surfactant is used one time to water in the seed or sod and repeated several months later this usually will restore a normal, compacted friable soil. It will also aid seed germination and sod root development.

2. Next, the average lawn which needs areation once a year or every other year. If the soil is presently friable, draining well, then an annual surfactant application in mid to late summer and again in early spring is sufficient.

3. Now we come to our real problem lawn...ucky, thick clay soil. Here, fall top dressing coupled with a monthly surfactant application for a year, then every other month the next year, then four times a year thereafter is the method that has given me the best results.

4. Southern growers of Centipede, St. Augustine, etc. run into the problems of grass patches dying out and refusing to fill in again. Once it is determined that the problem is not Brown Patch then I suggest that a monthly surfactant application to those spots until grass is growing well again.

5. Surfactants aid plants in absorbing and utilizing both chemical and organic plant foods. Usually it is possible to reduce the amount of these products a bit when using surfactants in conjuction with them.

So, to answer the original question posted....using my experiences over the years, liquid surfactants do work. I would suggest that you purchase one marked organic so that you may also use it on vegetable gardens with various hard pan/clay soils, if you wish.