View Full Version : trailer update 9-1-04
09-01-2004, 11:43 AM
Last night i got the springs put on (they had to wait for paint). I cut a PVC pipe in half lengthways and screwed one half to the trailer rail under each spring so they wouldn't slap around and make noise and destroy the paint, causing rust. Works like a charm. I put the wheels on it and the gate latch pins. I made cable lanyards for each latch pin so that you don't worry about where to put them or losing them. just pull the hairpin and snap it on the cable then pull the big pin and let it hang :D cheap and easy. was going to wire the brakes but the breakaway kit from Napa when i opened it, didn't have the charger in it for some reason :confused:
Got the VIN no. plate mounted too.
09-01-2004, 11:45 AM
i wanted the wheels to match the truck, so they are all painted the same color (black hubs, light grey rims). Man it's gonna look real slick hooked behind that big dually :)
Here's the lanyards. everyone ought to do this, going to be nice not losing or dropping the pins anymore :) They are 3/4" diameter latch pins and everything is lined up so slick that they slide in perfectly, no wiggling the gate like on the 6x12 :)
09-01-2004, 11:47 AM
Kinda tricky to make the stops and latches for the side gate, without having a traditional rail on either side of it. Just having stand alone latch posts was a little different approach. Had to brace them just right at the bottom but they are strong and stay out of the way :)
09-01-2004, 11:49 AM
I made the side gate taper inward so that it wouldn't catch on signs, mailboxes, etc. even if it went into a pothole or the road was not level. Plus it keeps it from falling over when your latching/unlatching it.
here's one of the springs on the rear gate:
09-01-2004, 11:51 AM
I made the spring mounts on the rails to be bolt on (in the pic above) so that they can be adjusted to compensate if the springs ever get a little tired or i decide i want a different amount of tension on them.
09-01-2004, 11:53 AM
Since i made the rear gate an extra foot long over most gates (most are 4', this is 5'), it is not as steep. mower should not bottom out on it :) Note that it is sitting on top of a 1"x board on the ground there.
09-01-2004, 11:55 AM
Side gate down. . 15 characters now?
09-01-2004, 11:56 AM
Last one for now.. better shot of the side gate latch arms and the pin lanyards in action :D
09-01-2004, 04:55 PM
Looks great. What u gonna use for the floor.
09-01-2004, 08:47 PM
another fine looking job your doing
09-01-2004, 09:18 PM
You should start a fabrication business.
09-01-2004, 10:41 PM
Eric, I am pretty impressed with your work so far. Any thought of doing a subfloor between a couple of those frame rails for a storage compartment?
09-02-2004, 09:12 AM
Only 1 question young grasshopper...With the posts on the rear gate for the springs, how do you plan to use the gate to change blades on the z?
The trailer is looking good. Keep up the good work.
09-02-2004, 10:14 AM
I'd like to have a side gate.
Only thing I would change -- turn those whitewalls around:eek:
09-02-2004, 11:23 AM
Chris, the solid Oak boards I pictured in the last update thread. They will go on the floor and sides.
Wriken, thank you.
Keith- oohhh! I hadnít thought of thatÖ hmm. Not too late to change the design a little eh heheheÖ.maybe. I kinda have a deadline Iím shooting for to have it done by. I can add that later and I will have the huge storage compartments up front on top of deck so below deck probably isnít needed. If it seems like it would be useful, then I could add it later.
Hoss, to be honest I have only ever done that once or twice (use gate for blade changing) and only when Iím away from the shop. I have done it on the side with the spring arm on the 6x12 trailer and it worked ok. This gate is even longer so you can go up farther before getting to the spring arm. Or I can use the side gate for that, since itís 4í long (back is 5) itíll be a little steeper even.
Mark, thanks. Theyíre whitewalled on both sides :(
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